
.^ 







W: 



II* 



i,-. 




GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN 
COURT LIFE 



\ 



HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELENA OF ITALY 

REPRODUCED FROM A PHOTOGRAPH 
PRESENTED BY HER MAJESTY TO THE AUTHOR 



m ^ 

A, -ITXtlXN- COURT- LIFE- 



m 



m 



HAPPY- DAYnS • IN • ITALIA- ADOKATA- |g 



%::i4^^ 



TPYPHOSA-BATES -BATCHELLEP^ 










NEW'YOBv^ 
DOUBLEDAY- PAGE'-^SkLCOMPANY 




LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Received 

NOV 9 1906 

- Cepyriglit Entry 

OLAsgrf A xxc no. 

COPY B. 



Copyright, 1906, by 
Tryphosa Bates Batcheller 



Published October^ igo6. 

All rights reserved, 

including that of translation into foreign languages, 

including the Scandinavian. 



THE DE VINNE PRESS 



DEDICATED 

BY SPECIAL PERMISSION 

TO HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY 

QUEEN ELENA OF ITALY 



PREFACE 

Italia Adorata. These two words seem to me 
to best express the universal sentiments of all the 
English-speaking people, and indeed of all the races 
of the civilized world, toward the country to which 
we all turn with a common love and admiration, — 
for its natural beauties given of God, for its great 
and historic past, for its present and heroic re-birth 
into the world of great nations, — and last, but not 
least, for the charm and rare intelligence of the 
Italian people. 

Personally I owe to my Italian friends, for whom 
I have a real affection, an expression of deep appre- 
ciation for their many and oft-repeated kindnesses 
to me whenever I have been in Italy, or wherever 
I have met them elsewhere in the world. " The 
heart is good," as our red Indians say, and the heart 
of an Italian friend is very good always, I have 
found. 

In Italy many poets of many countries have found 

[V] 



PREFACE 

a special inspiration, and the painter learns often for 
the first time the full meaning of color when he 
goes to Italy to study, not only nature, but the 
great Italian masters of the past. 

I have chosen to edit the letters written from Italy 
to my mother, father, and an intimate friend, be- 
cause I felt that my readers would receive a clearer 
picture of my experiences from letters written directly 
from the country. 

I have dwelt for the most part on Rome, where 
I have spent so many happy days. 

The city is becoming one of the halting places 
in the march of the world. Travellers from the 
West bound for the Orient rarely pass Italy by, and 
generally run up to Rome for a few weeks. In a 
similar way travellers from the Orient, going west- 
ward, feel as if they had reached a sort of home 
when they arrive in dear Italy. Gradually through 
the many foreign marriages of the great Italian nobles 
with women of rank and position in Spain, Eng- 
land, France and America, society in Rome has come 
to be very cosmopolitan, and one meets people of cul- 
ture and distinction from all over the world in the 
salons of the Roman matrons, than whom no more 
delightful hostesses can be found anywhere. 

It has also been my pleasure to investigate the 

[vi] 



PREFACE 

conditions of the Italians who have come to my 
country, and I have written two letters on the sub- 
ject of our Italian immigration, which I have studied 
with much interest. The results of my investi- 
gations have taught me to appreciate the worth of 
the Italians who are fast making part of our country 
a pic cola Italia^ as they themselves like to say. 

Here then, I offer to Her Most Gracious Majesty, 
Queen Elena of Italy, some of my experiences 
gathered in that dear country which, in common 
with all the world, I love so well; trusting that in 
my impressions of Italian life, which I have tried 
to picture, something may be found to interest and 
please Her Majesty, as well as my friends and readers 
everywhere. 



[vii] 



INTRODUCTION 

I VENTURE to add a few lines of introduction, as it 
seems to me there exists among a certain class of peo- 
ple, particularly in America, a misapprehension as to 
the value and meaning of titles. 

True it is, that in a democratic country like our 
own, there is little place for the consideration of this 
subject; but democratic as we Americans are theo- 
retically, practically it is well known that we all re- 
spect a foreign title without any definitely expressed 
reason to ourselves. In point of fact, there are as 
many class distinctions in America as in any foreign 
country, and we, unconsciously perhaps, put as high 
a value on family name, birth and breeding as do the 
noble families of the old world. 

Had George Washington been made an emperor, 
the signers of the Declaration of Independence might 
have been dukes or princes; but our forefathers be- 
gan with other names : hero, patriot, statesman, are 
the titles of the New World, for we are a New World 



INTRODUCTION 

and a young country. Our traditions are what our 
great-grandfathers have made them, and we each are 
as proud of our own heroes of the American Revo- 
lution, who fought and died that the heritage of this 
dear land might be ours, as the foreign nobleman is 
proud of his ancestors who gave their lives in the 
service of their country. 

The worship and love of ancestors have ever been 
a marked characteristic of great people the world 
over. The Lares and Penates were ever the favored 
gods of the Greeks and Romans, and the adoration 
of their forefathers is the first duty of the Japanese 
and Chinese. After all, we Puritans from England 
and Scotland are not far behind in the love and af- 
fection that we bear our progenitors, who have given 
us the greatest heritage of all, integrity, intelligence 
and intense love of country. Certain it is that their 
courage and high purpose laid the foundations of our 
own great country. Though superficially we may be 
considered a nation of merchants, at bottom we are 
really idealists, and the deep-seated love of our ideals 
will always save us from becoming altogether material- 
istic. The keynote of our country at the present 
day is, very properly, devotion to education which may 
teach these ideals to all who come to us. 

In the olden times the strongest man ruled; he 



INTRODUCTION 

built himself a fortress, and the weaker people in 
the vicinity paid tribute in the produce of their 
farms. 

In return, he gave them his protection in times 
of war, though they were forced to help him fight 
his battles. He was a duke, a prince, what you will, 
because he was strong. 

Later, the gallant soldiers of the European king- 
doms received grants of land and a title from their 
sovereigns for service rendered to their king and 
country on the field of battle, as in the case of John 
Churchill, made Duke of Marlborough after the battle 
of Blenheim. 

Happily in our times wars are growing less fre- 
quent; therefore titles are now generally conferred 
upon those who have achieved especial distinction 
in the world of art, music, literature and science ; 
so while I am not in any way a title-worshipper, I be- 
lieve fully in the power of heredity, and I maintain 
that titles have a definite significance. 

Though everyone that bears a title may not be 
distinguished personally, he undoubtedly belongs to 
a family whose members have achieved distinction, 
and is therefore entitled to consideration. 

We can harbly claim in America that all the de- 
scendants of our heroes, patriots and statesmen are 



INTRODUCTION 



distinguished individually, but we never hear the 
names of any of our great men w^ithout a feeling of 
respect not only for the progenitors of those names 
but for those who bear them at the present time. 



[xii] 



CONTENTS 

LETTER PAGE 

I ARRIVAL IN ITALY-NAPLES 

December 26, 1904 3 

II TRIP TO SAN MARTINO -NAPLES 

December 27 14 

III BEAUTIFUL CAPRI 

December 28 24 

IV AMALFI 

December 30 34 

V CAVA 

December 30 42 

VI NAPLES 

December 31 , 46 

VII A BIT OF JAPAN, NAPLES, ITALY 

January 3, 1905 53 

VIII THE BRONZES OF THE NAPLES MUSEUM 

January 5 64 

IX THE JOURNEY TO ROME 

January 7 80 

X HIS HOLINESS, THE POPE, IN ST. PETER^S 

Rome, Italy, January 8 86 

XI A PRESENTATION TO HIS HOLINESS 

Rome, Italy, January 10 95 

XII ROME 

January 15 102 

[xiii] 



CONTENTS 

LETTER PAGE 

XIII ROME 

January 20 105 

XIV ROME 

January 24 . ,,,109 

XV ROME 

January 28 , , . , , , 112 

XVI ROME 

January 31 1 22 

XVII ROME 

February 9 126 

XVIII A DAY WITH ST. PAUL 

February 11 129 

XIX ROME 

February 12 141 

XX HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELENA (Presentation at Court) 
February 15 143 

XXI ROME 

February 19 155 

XXII ROME 

February 20 . . , . 158 

XXIII ROME 

February 22 170 

XXIV ROME (The Royal Opera) 

February 23 174 

XXV ROME (The Bal de Tetes) 

March 2 177 

XXVI RACES AT TOR DI QUINTO 

Rome, March 5 186 

XXVII MUSIC 

Rome, March 6 191 

XXVIII THE COURT BALL 

Rome, March 7 208 



[xiv] 



CONTENTS 

LETTER PAGE 

XXIX PRESENTATION TO HER MAJESTY QUEEN 
MARGHERITA 
Rome, March 8 222 

XXX THE ROMAN LENT 

Rome, March 9 232 

XXXI SIGHT-SEEING 

Rome, March 10 246 

XXXII ROME 

March 11 261 

XXXIII PALAZZO MASSIMO 

Rome, March 17 , 263 

XXXIV THE LAST HUNT OF THE SEASON 

Rome, March 23 274 

XXXV THE COLONNA PALACE 

Rome, March 29 , . 281 

XXXVI PALAZZO FARNESE AND JOACHIM 

Rome, March 30 ,291 

XXXVII INDUSTRIE FEMMINILI 

Rome, March 31 299 

XXXVIII HIS EXCELLENCY SIGNOR TITTONI 

Rome, April i 321 

XXXIX MME. HELBIG AND VILLA LANTE 

Rome, April 2 326 

XL BRITISH EMBASSY 

Rome, April 4 332 

XLI ROME, 

April 6 336 

XLII TIVOLI 

Rome, April 7. . . ,• 338 

XLIII ADELAIDE RISTORI 

Rome, April 9 • • • • . 343 

[XV] 



CONTENTS 

LETTER PAGE 

XLIV ROME 

April II 358 

XLV HER EXCELLENCY THE MARCHESA DI RUDINI 

Rome, April 12 360 

XLVI ROME 

April 14 375 

XLVII MILAN 

April 20 378 

XLVIII ITALIANS IN BOSTON 

Boston, December 385 

XLIX ITALIANS IN NEW YORK 

New York, February, 1 906 400 

L HIS MAJESTY THE KING VICTOR EMMANUEL III 

A Brief History of the House of Savoy . . . .432 



[xvi] 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

Her Majesty Queen Elena of Italy, Frontispiece 

FACING PAGE 

The Bay of Naples, showing Castello d'Ovo on the Point, ... 6 v 

Neapolitan Cart, 1 6 ^ 

View of the Town of Capri, 24 ,. 

The Road from Capri to Anacapri, 30 

View of the Town of Amalfi, 34 ■ 

Terrace of the Capuchin Monastery at Amalfi, 38*^ 

The Temple of Neptune at Paestum, 48 / 

The House of the Vettii at Pompeii, 56" 

Room of the Bronzes in the Naples Museum, 70 

View of Monte Cassino, showing Monastery on Top of Mountain, . . 82 - 

The Barberini Palace and Garden, 84 

His Holiness the Pope, 86 y 

View of Rome from St. Peter's, 90 

Mrs. Francis Batcheller as Presented to His Holiness the Pope, . . 96 

The Villa Doria and Gardens, iio 

Prof. Dmitry Helbig in Nova Zembla, . . < 120 

View of the Roman Campagna, showing Ruined Aqueducts, . . 128 . 

Wine Cart of the Castelli Romani, . . 1 3 2 > 

View of the Interior of the Basilica of St. Paul's Outside the Walls, . 134 . 

Children of Their Majesties, the King and Queen of Italy, . . . 150/^ 

The Duchess Visconti di Modrone, 168 

[ xvii ] 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING PAGE 

The Marchesa Camillo Casati, i8o ' 

Her Excellency Donna Bice Tittoni, iSz ^ 

Prof. Sgambati in his Music Room, from a photograph by the author, 192 , 

View from the Piazza di Spagna of the Steps Leading to the Church of 

Santissima Trinita de' Monti, 1 94 

The Marchese and Marchesa de la Rejata de Castrone, .... 202 

Prof. Alessandro Bustini, 206 . 

The Princess Viggiano, 214- 

Her Majesty Queen Margherita, . . 222 

The Princess d' Antuni, 238. 

The Marchese Cappelli, 242 > 

The Marchesa Cappelli, 244^ 

The Pantheon of Agrippa, ^54- 

The Massimo Palace, 264 

Prince Massimo, 268 

The Meet, 274 , 

The Hunt across the Campagna, 276 

The Gallery of the Colonna Palace, 280 

His Excellency Count Gianotti, 282 

Her Excellency Countess Gianotti, 284- 

The Countess Balbis and Donna Marsella Gianotti, 286 

The Farnese Palace, now the French Embassy, 292, 

Scuola Canonica of the Countess Taverna at Como, 3^4^ 

Pictures of laces, 308- 

Portrait of Vittoria Colonna in Colonna Gallery, . . . . . . 316^ 

His Excellency Signor Tittoni, 322, 

The Cascades and Waterfalls at Tivoli, . 338 

View of Villa d'Este at Tivoli, 340 

The Marchesa Capranica del Grillo (Adelaide Ristori), .... 344 / 

[ xviii ] 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING PAGE 

Her Excellency the Marchesa di Rudini, 360 

The ballet of H. E,, the Marchesa di Rudini, 364 

The Company of H. E. the Marchesa di Rudini, showing Baron 

Gino di Morpurgo in the centre, 366 

The Count San Martino, 376' 

Interior of Borromeo Palace at Isola Bella (Lago Maggiore), . . . 380 

Isola Bella at Lago Maggiore, 382 

Throne Room of Borromeo Palace at Isola Bella, 384 

Mrs. Julia Ward Howe, 396 

Garden and Court Yard of Mrs. John L. Gardner's Palace at Boston, 398 

His Majesty King Victor Emmanuel of Italy, 432 

Interior of the Palace at Turin, 444 

Music of Italian National Hymn, 470 



[xix] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN 
COURT LIFE 



To E. F. D. B, 



ARRIVAL IN ITALY 



Naples, Italy, December 26, 1904 
My dear Mother: 

1MUST tell you about our landing last night, 
which was quite amusing at first, but came very 
near being disastrous at the end. Our good ship 
that had brought us safely across the Atlantic was 
steaming slowly and majestically into the bay. On 
our left was the lovely Island of Ischia, wrapped in the 
soft lights and haze of early evening. It was just the 
sunset hour, and on our right Vesuvius was letting 
forth a small white cloud of smoke from his crater, as 
though he were enjoying quite comfortably his after 
dinner cigarette. The eye almost unconsciously fol- 
lowed the smooth, curved line from the crater down to 
the little outlying suburbs of the great city of Naples, 
and as the purple and violet lights melted away in 
the deep blue water, the artificial lights of "Bella 
Napoli" began twinkling and beckoning to us. It 
was all so perfect, so wonderful, so incomparably 

[3] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

beautiful, that I felt that my fairy god-mother could 
not have given me a better Christmas present than 
the privilege of beholding the lovely scene before 
me. 

I was, therefore, much surprised, when a man 
standing near me on the deck, said in a most assertive 
way, " Yes, we are going on to Genoa at once, as 
there is nothing to see in Naples." I suppose I must 
have shown my astonishment, for the man turned 
half apologetically to me and said, " Have you ever 
been in Naples ? Is there really anything to see ?'* 
My answer, if it had been complete, would have 
filled volumes, but I merely said, " You know the 
saying, *See Naples and die.' I never lose an oppor- 
tunity to stay in Naples as long as possible; there 
is not only so much of interest in the museum, but 
in and about the city all sorts of delightful excursions 
are to be made.'' 

As I walked towards the forward part of the ship, I 
looked down at the steerage passengers, who were 
standing in crowds on the deck below, and F. B. and 
I both felt that they held their heads extra high just 
now, for very pride of belonging to this glorious land 
before us. One man, who had evidently been most 
prosperous in America, was wearing a good-looking 
heavy overcoat, soft felt hat and a nice pair of leather 

[4] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

boots. In the eyes of these men the boots are an 
important part of the appearance, for many of them 
went from their homes very poorly shod. He 
was armed with a broom-brush, borrowed from the 
steward, and was marshaling all the men about him, 
brushing each one with the greatest care. It was 
really very amusing to watch these home-coming 
Italians who had gone away to labor in a strange 
land. Most of them looked as if they had fared very 
well and prospered, but of course there were some to 
whom Fate had not been kind, who now were re- 
turning heart-broken to their own sunny land. 

One man, who had been in America but a short 
time, had come back to spend the Christmas holi- 
days with his family. He stood far up in the bow, 
eagerly looking for his dear ones on the shore, but 
the man with the brush summoned him, and as he 
reluctantly turned about to be made quite clean, we 
had a good chance to look him over. He was thinly 
and poorly clad, an old cap on his head, a loose, 
collarless shirt, and trousers that could be truthfully 
called " pants '' ; never mind! these same pants were 
turned up about six inches at the ankles, to display 
to the fullest possible advantage the pride of his 
heart — a pair of fine patent leather shoes. My, 
how they did shine ! and he felt and wanted every- 

[5] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

one to feel with him, for the time being, that he 
was all feet. It was certainly amusing to see him 
strut about with those shoes. We asked about him, 
and learned that he will soon return again to his 
work in America. Next time he comes back to his 
dear Italy, I dare say, he will be as grand as the man 
with the broom-brush and the black overcoat. 

We were bundled into the custom-house along 
with the second and third class passengers, and pande- 
monium followed. Naples, you know, is the noisiest 
'city in the world, and that custom-house last night 
must have been the wildest scene of yelling, scream- 
ing people that ever was in Naples. After dumping 
our trunks on the dock, the porters proceeded to 
scatter them into three separate ware-houses, and I 
assure you, it was like hunting for a needle in a hay- 
mow to find one's own baggage at all. As we stepped 
from the gang-plank, several guides rushed up to us, 
and I asked the most intelligent looking one to stay 
by us, for dear Mrs. Gouverneur Morris of New York 
was with us, and there were numerous trunks to be 
found. 

Signor Antoni proved most polite, and as we hur- 
ried to the ware-house, he said, " The Signorina is a 
lady guide, how many in her party? She speak Italian 
very well." Antoni labored hard for the salvation 

[6] 



^•1^ 



CO 

O 

pq 
H 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

of the baggage, but the rescue was not easy. Porters 
yelled to other porters ; enraged custom-house officers 
ordered off the Italian peasants waiting about the 
buildings, while Signor Antoni and I played at hide- 
and-seek amongst hundreds of trunks. Mine were 
striped with white bands, so in time we found these, 
and then Mrs. M. and Antoni wrestled with the 
situation for another quarter of an hour. The custom- 
house officer came to examine them, passed them 
quickly, and was most polite, but a moment later I saw 
him get furious because one of my fellow voyagers 
offered him a gold piece. As he stalked indignantly 

away Mr. said to me, " I meant well anyhow, 

and I have always heard that these people take tips.'' 
"No," I said, "you must remember modern Italy is 
trying to maintain very high standards, and deserves 
great credit for her success." We were all disgusted 
at the steamship management, which really was too 
careless for words. The emigrants, who had been 
refused admittance to America, were pushed indis- 
criminately among us, and we feared infection and all 
sorts of trouble. Some people did get influenza, and 
two ladies lost their trunks altogether, so we felt 
rather lucky after all, when Antoni put us into the 
Vesuve omnibus, and we knew that the worst was 
over and that we were really "all there." 

[7] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

I learned the Italian saying, " Ci vuol pazienza 
(you must be patient)," while we were hunting the 
last stray trunk, for Antoni said it over and over to 
me, and I feel sure it will become a watch-word 
between F. B. and me, especially when I am dressing 
for dinner. " Hurry " cannot be adequately translated 
into Italian, so Ci vuol pazienza should be learned 
by every one intending to stay any time at all in dear 
old Italy. 

But here we are snug and warm in this nice hotel 
Vesuve. We have been here so many times, that the 
good Swiss landlord greeted us at the door as if we 
had been his relatives, and gave special instructions 
to his men as to our rooms and the heating of them. 
What do you suppose our hotel landlords in America 
would do if they were expected to greet every new ar- 
rival personally? Fancy Mr. Boldt standing at the door 
of " Peacock Alley " at the Waldorf, with a diagram 
of the hotel rooms in his hand, and assigning every 
room to each traveler himself! However, in dear 
Italy this is precisely what happens, at least at the 
Hotel Vesuve. 

Nearly all the hotels in Italy, and indeed in many 
other countries now-a-days, are managed and directed 
by the Swiss ; certainly, these Swiss landlords whom 
we have met know how to make us delightfully 

[81 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

comfortable — and Oscar Tschirky, that paragon of 
the Waldorf, is also Swiss, you know. 

We insisted on steam heat and southern exposure, 
so our rooms are very sunny and warm. They are 
directly opposite the Castello dell' Ovo, where that 
dissolute and much married Johanna I of Naples was 
imprisoned so long. She was married when only 
seven years old to Andrew of Hungary, but in 1345 
she had him ruthlessly strangled, as she wanted to 
marry Louis of Tarranto. He pleased little better^ 
and she married twice after that. At the time of the 
revolution in Naples, she was seized and imprisoned 
in the castle, and afterwards hanged by the king of 
Hungary, a brother of her first unfortunate husband. 
The Castello was begun in 1 1 54, and it certainly 
looks its age. 

I enjoy watching the fishermen and boys in the 
Borgo dei Marinari (Place of the Fishermen) just at 
the side of the castle on the island ; the bridge too, 
connecting the island with the main land, is the scene 
of constant passing, for the Castello is now used as 
barracks, and soldiers in curious uniforms are con- 
stantly going in and out. All the Italian uniforms 
are most picturesque and attractive, but the bersagl- 
ieriy the picked men of the Italian army, are always 
a source of delight to me. They wear dark blue 

[9l 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

uniforms with crimson pipings, black tarpaulin hats 
worn very much to one side, trimmed with masses of 
green cock feathers, w hich blow merrily in the breeze 
as they walk swiftly by. They are supposed to be 
the best shots and the fastest marching men of the 
Italian army. 

This morning we awoke to see the ground white 
with snow, a most unusual sight in Naples, but in 
spite of the shivering cold, the restaurante, or 
"restoration" (as F. B. calls it), of the fishermen 
was duly arranged with its out-of-door tables and the 
white table-cloths flapped in the bitter cold Tramon- 
tana, in a way that made me shiver. The women 
were evidently equally determined not to admit the 
fact that it was cold winter in their lovely land of 
sun, for they bravely brought their washing to the 
public faucet, and scrubbed away until the week's 
linen was cleaned. Now the water did not freeze, so 
it really could not have been so fearfully cold after 
all, but when I went out for a walk this morning to 
my favorite coral shops in the Via Calabritto, I was 
profoundly grateful for my furs. 

The Sahara desert on the one hand, and the snow- 
covered Calabrian mountains on the other, make 
Naples warm and balmy, and frightfully windy and 
cold alternately. The Tramontana, or North wind 

[lo] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

(literally, wind from the mountains), blows three, 
six, or nine days, and this is also true of the Scirocco, 
or South wind, which is warm and very enervating. 
They say here that it makes one very irritable; people 
sometimes forgive serious offenses if the Scirocco is 
blowing, as everyone is expected to be in bad temper, 
and nearly everyone meets the expectation. Never 
go shopping in a Scirocco, you will be worsted in 
the bargain, and will find yourself on edge at the end 
of the first hour. When you shop in Naples make it 
a rule to be smiling and amiable on all occasions and 
under the most trying circumstances. The Nea- 
politans will almost give you what you wish to buy 
if you smile pleasantly at them and chat kindly with 
them about their own city. 

We can generally be our own weather prophets 
here, for Vesuvius is a natural barometer for Naples; 
a change of the weather is known twenty-four hours 
beforehand, by the direction in which the smoke 
issuing from its crater, is blowing. When it blows 
towards Capri, the weather is sure to be good, but 
when the crater is concealed by thick clouds, the 
Scirocco is sure to come, and rain along with it. 

To-morrow we are going to San Martino, if the 
day is fine, and to the opera in the evening. As I 
was writing, the strains of Sole Mio, one of the 

["J 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Italian street songs, called me to the window. I love 
the simple melodies of these Neapolitan airs. How 
these men can sing this cold night out of doors I 
cannot imagine, but the Neapolitans can sing their 
own sweet songs "at any old time,'' and they always 
have the same fascination. I put a few soldi in 
an envelope, and threw it down from my balcony. 
** Grazie, grazie, Signora ContessUy' came back from 
the street below, and the song was repeated. There 
is a subtle charm about the voices of these Neapoli- 
tans, even of these street singers. What that 
charm is when developed in a really wonderful voice, 
we all realize when we listen to Caruso's beau- 
tiful notes. He was a Neapolitan boy, you know, 
and I dare say sang these very songs on his way 
to school. 

The folk-songs of all countries to me seem beau- 
tiful. They are the spontaneous expression of some 
joyous or sad heart, and as they come from the heart, 
they go straight to the heart. 

Don't you remember how delighted President 
Roosevelt was when I sang some ballads the even- 
ing that Mrs. Roosevelt gave that charming musicale 
for me at the White House? I shall never forget 
his insistence for the second verse of each song. 

[12] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Sir Purdon Clarke is another wonderful man with 
a great mind and a big heart who loves the good old 
songs of England and Scotland. To me, however, 
the Neapolitan airs are especially attractive. 

As the last sounds died away, the memory of the 
Andante of Mendelssohn's Italian symphony came 
back to me. How lovely it is! Don't you think 
he must have written the last strains with the sweet 
melodies of these Italian songs sounding faintly in 
his ears? 

Good night, my dear, it is late, and I shall be 
lulled to sleep with the strains of Santa Lucia 
beneath my window. 

" Naples ! thou heart of men which ever pantest 
Naked beneath the lidless eye of heaven ! 
Elysian City, which to calm enchantest 
The mutinous air and sea, — they round thee, even 
As Sleep round Love, are driven ! 
Metropolis of a ruined paradise 
Long lost, late won, and yet but half regained ! 
Bright altar of the bloodless sacrifice 
Which armed Victory offers up unstained 
To Love the flower-enchanted ! 
Thou which wert once, and then didst cease to be. 
Now art, and henceforth ever shalt be, free. 
If Hope and Truth and Justice can avail, — 
Hail, hail, all hail!" 



[13] 



II 

To E. F. D. B. 

TRIP TO SAN MARTINO 

Naples, Italy, December 27, 1 904 

My dear Mother : 

THIS morning we took one of the funny 
little cabs, victorias on stilts, I call them, 
and started for San Martino. We did not 
ask the driver how much he would take us for, but 
we told him we intended to go in his carriage and 
would pay him so much. It is hopeless, if you do not 
know Italian, but perfectly simple to manage these 
people if you can scold them properly in their own 
tongue. I found out from our landlord about what 
I should pay, and then I managed for myself, to the 
disgust of the magnificent gold-laced porter at the 
door. 

Our little horse was dressed out this fine morning 
in his best harness, which was literally covered with 
brass nails, while on the saddle a silver model of 
himself was madly prancing. The driver demurred 
at my terms, as I expected he would, so I smilingly 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

added another lira to the bargain, thus making the 
price exactly what I had originally intended to pay, 
and giving him the satisfaction of feeling that he 
had not been altogether worsted by the hard-hearted 
foreign lady. As we galloped through the pretty, 
tropical Viale Nazionale, with its palms and pal- 
mettoes, ragged little urchins ran out holding up 
their fore-fingers and looking eagerly at us. At first 
I could not imagine what they wanted, but when one 
little fellow on the chance of being understood by 
the foreigners, called out *' Un soldo ^ un soldo,'' I un- 
derstood that the one finger was their language for 
one penny. Foolishly we threw them some coins, but 
we were soon sorry, for presently we were followed by 
a dozen or more screaming boys, the beggars joined, 
and we had to tell the cocchiere (the coachman) 
to whip up and get away as fast as he could with his 
little steed. 

The horses about here are very small, yet wonder- 
fully strong; and as for the wee donkeys, the loads 
that they draw and the noise that they make, seem 
to be in an inverse ratio to their size. On the road 
this morning, we passed some extraordinary looking 
carts. The saddles of the harnesses of these dray horses 
were decorated with brass nails, brass flags, and small 
brass ornaments in the most picturesque, useless way. 

[^5] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

The poor animals look quite worn out, carrying their 
big loads and all that finery into the bargain. How- 
ever, to look at, they are most effective, and in this 
glorious country, the picturesque is as important to the 
natives, by very force of environment, as the air they 
breathe. 

I bought this morning some delightful little water- 
colors of Ischia and Capri. Everybody at home will 
say they are exaggerated in color; in point of fact, 
they are really not bright enough. I have heard that 
Queen Margherita has said, that Naples is such a gor- 
geous festival of colors, and one's enjoyment of it so 
keen, that it is very tiring to stay here very long at 
any one time. 

When we at last reached the beautiful belvedere of 
the convent of San Martino, all Naples lay stretched 
before us. Vesuvius in the distance directly oppo- 
site, and the wonderful harbor to the right. Our 
Italian guide asked us to put both hands to our ears, 
and look down into the city, and as we did so, we 
heard the most astonishing noise. It was as if hun- 
dreds of thousands of voices were all mingled into 
one great rumbling roar. Naples certainly lives up 
to its reputation of being the noisiest city in the 
world. 

We thought it was quite warm on our drive up, 

[i6] 




m 



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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the sunshine was so lovely, in spite of the light fall of 
snow, but, once inside the convent, we shivered and 
shook and drew our furs closely about us, so I am 
afraid we did not altogether do justice to the many 
interesting things in the place. We did see the State 
coach, however, which was used by Victor Emmanuel 
and Garibaldi, when they entered the City of Naples 
in i860. We took time to enjoy Stanzioni's "De- 
scent from the Cross," the "Nativity" by Guido Reni, 
who died before the picture was finished, and on the 
altar of the sacristy we admired the eucharist cup with 
the wonderful ruby. Fancy the old monks living 
there, year in and year out, never speaking except 
on Sunday mornings ! However, it certainly must 
have been an ideal place for meditation, for the clois- 
ter and garden are lovely, aside from the magnifi- 
cent view. 

As we were driving down, we passed a little res- 
taurant where F. B. told me he met last year a 
young Italian boy from Boston. He was eating his 
lunch when this young man spoke to him, offering 
his services as a guide to Camaldoli. F. B. thought 
it would be rather nice to go, and they started off 
across country through the vineyards. Women are 
not allowed to go at all. The Camaldolensian 
Order was founded in 1585 by Prince Colonna, and 

[17] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

suppressed by the Italian Government in 1863. It 
has now passed into private hands, but is still inhabi- 
ted by ten monks. Each monk lives in a little house 
by himself, the houses all being in a row. One of 
the monks took F. B. about, showed him everything, 
how they live, how they keep their gardens, and then 
took him to the most desirable point to enjoy the 
view. F. B. says the view is really better than the one 
from San Martino, which we have just seen, though 
it seems to me hardly possible. 

As we drove down into Naples again, we were 
much amused at the washing which was hung up 
on poles fastened in the sidewalk. The Neapolitans 
actually live in the street, and even the meals are 
prepared by itinerant cooks on the sidewalk, before 
any house to which they happen to be called. 

Before going home I stopped at Signora Piscione's 
to see some of her fascinating corals. Her gold 
medal necklace of Sardinian coral, I am happy to 
say, is fast locked in my trunk. She seemed de- 
lighted to see me again, and told me about her hand- 
some son, who has a fine tenor voice. I picked up some 
pretty necklaces for presents, and one especially for 
you, of white coral with pink dots. She says it is 
rather " mongrel coral," but I think it is quite effec- 
tive for a change. You hear people say, "coral is 

[18] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

coral/' but that, of course, shows how little they 
really know about it ; in point of fact, there is as much 
difference between fine and poor coral as there is 
between a pure and an off-colored diamond. The 
beads of pure Sardinian coral, when free from all sea 
marks, are like pink pearls, very rare and very ex- 
pensive. The divers have to go down to great 
depths in the water to get the branches of this color, 
and a large perfect bead can be cut only from a large 
branch. The Signora was very kind, and obligingly 
pulled several strings of beads to pieces, in order that 
I might have just the right sizes together; and she 
was also very fair in her prices, as these people are, if 
you take them in the right way. 

All along this Via Calabritto the shops are simply 
enchanting. In one of the largest of them, there is 
a whole room devoted to coral, another to tortoise 
shell, and another to lava taken from Vesuvius at 
different times, and made into bracelets and all sorts of 
trinkets. Signor Melillo always has a wonderful 
collection in his shop also. Especially attractive are 
the little jettature made from different shades of 
coral. 

The Neapolitans are very superstitious, and almost 
all of them wear one of these little charms, because 
they believe them to be an offset to the jettatura 

[19] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

or " evil eye '' that they talk about. This even- 
ing at the opera, a very richly dressed lady was 
pointed out to us in one of the boxes. As she 
came in and took her seat, I noticed that all the 
men touched their charm — or jettatura — or, 
failing this, they formed their left hand into a 
pair of horns, by stretching out the first and little 
fingers and holding together their second and 
third fingers tightly in the palm of the hand with 
the thumb. Of course, they did not allow this lady 
to see what they were doing, but any close observer 
could remark that almost every one went through 
the motion. I asked an Italian friend about it, and 
she said, " Oh yes, she has the evil eye, and brings ill 
luck everywhere." Poor lady! She was most attractive 
to look at, and probably is quite ignorant of her sup- 
posed ill fortune. Some of the little charms are made 
to represent the hand folded in the way described. 
These Neapolitan merchants are most artistic, and 
have copied and reproduced successfully many of the 
necklaces found in Pompeii, now in the museum of 
Naples. The museum claims us tomorrow, and 
that reminds me, I am sending home a lovely bronze, 
a replica of the beautiful black bronze Mercury, 
found at Herculaneum. It is the most perfect thing 

[20] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

in art, I believe. Charles Sumner left his replica, 
you know, to dear Mrs. Howe. 

We enjoyed the opera at the San Carlo this even- 
ing immensely; they gave "La Boheme,'' and the 
soprano role was sung delightfully by Signora Stehle. 
The name seems to be German, but they say she is 
an Italian; anyhow, she sang the music very smoothly 
and with much purer tone than one usually hears. 
Signor Mugnone led the orchestra magnificently. 
Unlike many of the modern conductors, he was most 
considerate of the singers, and made the orchestra 
keep down where it belonged, and serve as a delight- 
ful accompaniment to the voices, though he in no 
way neglected to bring out the beauties of the score. 
Puccini's music is so lovely, but I like " La Boheme" 
much better than "La Tosca"; it has more melody 
and is less after Wagner. Most of the composers who 
try to write "after Wagner" are a long way after him. 

To a foreigner's eye the house to-night presented 
a most unusual appearance. The boxes, of course, 
were filled with finely dressed people, though many of 
the women wore hats and high-necked gowns. The 
first ten rows of the orchestra were filled with luxu- 
riously upholstered armchairs, and the people who 
had these seats were more or less elaborately gowned. 

[21] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

But the rest of the floor was filled with benches 
without backs, and crowded to the last gasping 
limit with eager, tired, music-loving Neapolitans. 
Several women sitting just below us had brought 
their babies, and the poor little things had their 
supper from their mothers' breasts amid the din of 
the orchestral overture. No wonder they grow up 
to be musicians! 

Once when one of the singers missed a line, I no- 
ticed one of these women give the w ords of it to her 
neighbor with a laugh at the confusion of the artist 
on the stage, as much as to say, "I know the words 
and music as well as she does." You see, the Italians 
do not expect an operatic impresario to change his 
performance constantly. In the smaller towns the 
people save up money for a year, engage an opera 
troupe to come, arrange to give the same opera 
every night for a month, and then every mother's 
son of them attends each performance. As you may 
imagine, at the end of the month any one in the 
audience can act as prompter. In the large places, 
like Naples, there is more variety, but the people 
learn the music they like very quickly, and it is not 
safe for an artist to make any serious mistake. Hisses 
will shame him off the stage if he makes a bad 
blunder, and jeers follow if there is a second offense. 

[22l 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

We have decided to take a little run over our 
favorite stamping-grounds of Capri and Sorrento, 
coming back by way of Amalfi, Cava and Paestum, 
where I want to see the temples I have missed each 
trip before. 

We miss our Japanese friends this time in Naples. 
We had such a good time with them two years 
ago. But I must not write more to-night, it is so 
fearfully late. Good night. 



[23] 



Ill 

To T. C. B. 

BEAUTIFUL CAPRI 

Capri, Italy, December 28, 1904 

My dear Papa: 

HERE we are once more in this fascinating 
spot, and have just had a merry greeting 
from our friends the donkey girls. How 
I wish I could bottle up some of this glorious morn- 
ing air in beautiful Capri, and send it to you. 

Most people who come to Capri see just enough 
to know that they ought to see more, when they run 
away to catch the steamer for Sorrento ; but I have 
been to Capri so many times that the pretty girls 
along its shores greet me as an old friend, and each 
time I revisit the island, I stay a little longer than the 
time before, so perhaps if I come often enough, I 
shall end by living here altogether. 

This is precisely what happened to the Emperor 
Tiberius (A. D. 27), who, after giving up the reins 
of government to Sejanus, retired to Capri, where 
he erected twelve villas in honor of the twelve gods. 

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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

One of our favorite excursions when here, is to the 
largest of these, the Villa Jo vis, which is still a pic- 
turesque ruin on the topmost point of one part of 
the island. 

Tiberius found the climate so tranquil and beau- 
tiful, and the island so inaccessible, that he spent the 
rest of his days and died here A. D. 37. The climate 
is just the same to-day, mild, balmy and refreshing. 

In 1803, you remember, during the Napoleonic 
wars, the island was captured by the English under 
Sir Sydney Smith, and converted into a miniature 
Gibraltar ; but to make the exception prove the rule, 
the French later beat the English in a naval battle 
here, when Lamarque recaptured the island. 

Capri, called in olden times Caprea, was first 
known about under Augustus, who showed a great 
partiaUty for it, exchanging the. island of Ischia, for 
it with the Republic of Naples. He established baths 
and aqueducts here, and built fine palaces, but they 
have been destroyed or fallen into decay. 

I remember, I was told when being rowed to the 
Blue Grotto, that the boat was passing over the famous 
baths built by Tiberius on the island and swallowed 
up by the sea many years ago. At the same time 
some stories of the emperor's frightful cruelty were 
repeated, but I am sure you would n't want to hear 

[25] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

them. Fancy his hurling his slaves from the top- 
most rock down, down into the water below ! 

Naturally, the first visit to Capri makes the deepest 
impression on the mind, for everything is so novel 
and so very lovely that one feels as in a fairy heaven. 
When I first came, our little steamer, I remember, 
dropped anchor a short distance from the island to 
allow us to see the famous Blue Grotto. I was much 
excited, but not nearly as much so as the boatmen 
and boys, who pulled their boats to and fro in a 
most distracted fashion by the side of the steamer, all 
yelling frantically to one another, and no one paying 
the least attention to the others. By some miracle, 
it seemed to me, the ofHcer of the steamer marshalled 
one boat after another to the ship's side, and I sud- 
denly found myself opposite a handsome old peasant, 
with red cheeks, white hair, and eyes and cap that 
rivaled the blue of the water over which his boat 
was jumping. 

Of a sudden, we were told to lower our heads, 
and then ordered to lie down in the boat. This 
was not exactly an agreeable process, but the captain 
of a ship is master of his own boat the world over, 
and though this was only a rowboat of fairly good 
size, we felt the authority of the old man of the blue 
eyes, and obeyed. A lunge, a hard pull at the oars, a 

[26] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

fearful bounce, and we were told to sit up and 
look about us. It was as if some fairy had said, 
"Presto, change," and we had been translated to 
another world. 

Everything was, oh! so blue, and — yes — it was 
silver, the walls of the fairy water-cave were appar- 
ently silver-plated, and the water bluer than any blue 
I had ever dreamed of, so that when a small boy came 
suddenly swimming up to the side of our boat, appar- 
ently encased in silver, I was quite convinced that I did 
believe in fairies after all, and that this was really fairy- 
land. Just at this moment the boy thrust his hand out 
of the water for a soldo (penny), and it was just like 
any other boy's hand — the charm was broken — 
greed for gold had spoiled the silver magic. The light 
effects on the water are so elusive at first, that it is 
a pity you cannot be hurried out of the grotto as 
quickly as you are hurried in, for then you would 
always believe you had been in an enchanted land. I 
recall with less enthusiasm that we were rather wet 
when we regained the steamer, but wiser and mer- 
rier, although somewhat dirtier for the excursion. 

I have usually landed at the Grande Marina (big 
harbor), but this morning the sea was so rough that 
we were obliged to go around the island to the 
Piccola Marina (little harbor). I was delighted, 

[27] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

because we were thus able to get a splendid view of 
the famous cathedral rocks that stand out in such 
bold relief from one end of the island. 

I assure you, I Ve become quite an adept at jump- 
ing in and out of small boats between waves. The 
girls and boys had watched the steamer's course, 
and rushed across the island leading their patient 
donkeys, while the men with the tiny horses and 
carriages were equally expeditious, so when we 
landed they were all waiting as usual, laughing and 
talking. They rushed up to me calling, " Ben venuto, 
Signorina ( welcome to Capri ), prendete Melba^ gooda 
donk, Signorina^ prendete Miral Dewey gooda donk'' 
I explained to the older girls that I was married, 
so now I was a Signora, and pointing to F. B., who 
was hastening to secure his donkey, I said, " There 
is my husband.** " Felici auguri, Signora (best wishes, 
Signora),*' and the girls all looked F. B. over very 
sharply to see if they approved of this man I had 
ventured to marry in that far-off land, where 
their fathers so often go to get "bigga mon." I 
mounted one of the gaily caparisoned little don- 
keys, — my patriotism leading me to choose "Admiral 
Dewey," — and no sooner was I in the saddle than 
the owner began beating the poor beast in a ruthless 
way, thinking, I suppose, that the Signora must go 

[28] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

very quickly. I rebelled, insisted that I should 
dismount if she did not stop, and when the girl 
found that I was quite as contented to go slowly, and 
that she was saved the trouble of yelling and beating, 
she seemed much surprised and pleased. In due time, 
my dear little ** Admiral Dewey" brought me to 
this nice hotel where we have just had luncheon. 
The host pressed his fine white Capri wine upon us, 
for the island abounds in vineyards, and the Capri 
wines are considered among the best of the white 
wines of Italy. 

Do you remember, dear, the time you and I were 
here and saw the belle of Capri, Bella Caruli? 
How she came to our table, her arms loaded with 
pretty corals, and we felt she should have been called 
*' Corali '' ? We heard the song that was written 
about her to-day on the boat, and it seemed so nice 
to hear the pretty strains of Bella Caruli to the 
accompaniment of guitars and mandolins once more. 
How surprised we were to see the pretty girl her- 
self! I still have the little coral horseshoe pin she 
gave me as a rivederla (good-bye). ^^ Buona for- 
tuna, Signorina,'' she said, as she handed it out to 
me, and was gone. Bella Caruli, how often I 
have wondered what has ever become of you! I 
asked to-day, but could not get much definite infor- 

[29l 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

mation. One girl said she had married and died, 
and her husband had gone to America. Who knows ? 
These peasants do not tell a foreign Signora all their 
secrets. 

This town of Capri has the narrowest streets I 
have ever seen, the brightest sunshine and the oddest 
houses. It always seems like a children's toy village, 
put down anywhere, all " topsy-turvy." 

There are several good hotels here now, and 
when you consider that though there are only six 
thousand inhabitants on the island, thirty thousand 
foreigners visit it each year, it is not surprising. 

The island yields fruit, oil, and plenty of red and 
white wines, and the innumerable visitors each year 
help to make Capri a most cheerful and prosper- 
ous place. 

Our landlord tells me that a great many of the 
men of Southern Italy emigrate to South America, 
where some two million Italians have settled, but the 
men of Capri, who generally leave their women at 
home, almost invariably return to their beautiful 
native land. 

This afternoon we gave ourselves the rare treat of 
a drive to Anacapri, which is, as you know, the 
village just above Capri on this rocky island. The 

[30] 



,o.a 



1 



ROAD FROM CAPRI TO ANACAPRI 

Ffom a luater-color by Bonetti 






COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY TRYPHOSA BATES BATCHELLfcR 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

drive is one of the grandest you can imagine. I am 
always grateful for the excellent road which is of 
recent construction, for formerly the traveler was 
asked to mount seven hundred steps, which used to 
form the chief approach to the higher parts of the 
island. My poor pen is useless when it tries to de- 
scribe the beauty of the views which fairly enchanted 
us this afternoon. The road, broad, finely built, 
with ample walls at the side near the sea, winds 
back and forth, steadily mounting upwards for sev- 
eral miles; as one looks ahead, it seems now and 
then to disappear round a sharp curve. Apparently 
the carriage and its occupants must soon come to a 
stand-still or be hurled into the sea, but at each of 
these abrupt turns we had most lovely views of 
Nisida, the wonderful bay of Naples, Ischia and the 
other islands, and Vesuvius always smoking in the 
distance. Oh! It is glorious and no mistake! We 
went on, up and up, higher and higher, till we 
reached the little town of Anacapri. 

The sky was so blue that I should need to coin a 
new word to express the color, the water eight 
hundred and eighty feet below us mirrors the sky to 
perfection, while the bright scarlet of the peasants' 
scarfs contrasts charmingly with Nature's coloring. 

On the way up the steep climb, I discovered a 

[31] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

large grotto in the towering rocks above us, in the 
centre of which a large figure of the Virgin was 
securely placed, and seemed to look down at us from 
her strange altar of Nature. Some devoted one had 
hung a beautiful rosary on her arm, and I felt as I 
looked at the calm, sweet face that the action of 
crossing one's self, after the manner of the Romanists, 
is, after all, a very natural and appropriate thing to do. 

But the mild Madonna was soon left behind, and 
we had gone but a little distance down the village 
street, when a pretty peasant girl entreated us to 
come into her garden, and try her Anacapri wine. 
Her beauty and the prospect of a lovely view, in- 
duced us to leave the carriage. 

This evening the landlord, who prepared an ex- 
cellent dinner for us, took us to see the Christmas 
tree he had arranged for his American guests. It 
looked so homelike in this foreign land, and quite de- 
lighted us, for we had been at sea on Christmas day, 
and only had, for Santa Claus, the good luck to find 
our trunks amid the chaos and confusion of the Naples 
custom-house, as I wrote you some days ago. 

If any one is tired, ill or depressed, they should pack 
their trunks at once and come to Capri for a month. 
Here sunshine, warmth, merriment and health await 
them, and they will breathe in new life and happiness 

[32] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

with every breath. The walks and drives in and 
about here and Anacapri are most attractive. We 
plan and imagine all the wonderful apartments of the 
great Emperor Tiberius from the scattered ruins, and 
we feast our eyes constantly on one beautiful view 
after another. Now we see the great bay of Naples, 
now the blue gulf of Salerno, and from certain points 
on the island we have the two rare visions at the 
same time. At sunset, the whole island becomes 
embraced in soft pink clouds; Naples and Sorrento 
seem to become the cities of another world, whose 
lights twinkle to us as the stars from heaven. 

Sunset at beautiful Capri ! I shall always have this 
dear memory in my mind to recall on a very rainy 
day. 



[33] 



To E. F. D. B. 

AMALFI 

December 30, 1904 

My dear Mother: 

WE took a little steamer from Capri yester- 
day morning to come over to Sorrento. 
The sea was running high, and the captain 
did not dare to put us off in the small boats that 
come out from the shore of the town to take the pas- 
sengers, so our steamer had to go on to Meta, where 
there is a much better and safer harbor. Here we 
could safely get into the little boats, and were quickly 
rowed ashore. We easily got carriages and drove 
rapidly along the road, mostly shut in with high 
walls, of which F. B. does not at all approve, and 
soon arrived at Sorrento. 

We found that the Victoria Hotel was equipped 
with steam heating, and in a very short time we were 
pleasantly settled in comfortable rooms. The radia- 
tors were very small and the rooms very large, so we 
had to add an open fire to the much talked of heating 

[34] 



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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

apparatus, and then we were quite satisfied. Is there 
anything more beautiful than the view we had early- 
yesterday morning from the broad balcony on which 
our rooms open at Sorrento ? The air was clear and 
cold, and the beautiful bay mirrored this wonderful 
Italian blue sky that I never cease to enjoy and admire. 
There is not very much of interest in the town of 
Sorrento itself, but it is picturesque, built as it is on 
rocks, rising precipitously from the sea, surrounded by 
luxurious orange and lemon groves, and enclosed on 
two sides by deep ravines, which the peasants about 
here believe to be peopled with tiny fairies. Nothing 
now remains of the old Roman Sorrentum, though the 
peasants still call the place Surient ; but there are 
some subterranean cisterns that have defied the passing 
ages, and a few fragments of stone work that have 
been given high sounding names. 

Torquato Tasso, you remember, was a native of 
this place, and a marble statue erected to his memory 
is in the piazza that bears his name. The house 
where he was born, with the rock on which it stood, 
has been washed away by the sea, though the house 
of his sister, to whom he came in disguise in 1592, 
was pointed out to us. 

The last time we came here we stopped at the 
Hotel Tramontana, and the ever thoughtful landlord 

[35] . 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

had no intention of our leaving without seeing the 
peasants dance the Tarantella, This time it was the 
lovely month of June, the time of all others to be in 
the southern part of Italy, I think. The evening 
was clear and cool I remember, and I was much an- 
noyed at being called from my terrace, where I was 
watching the flames of Vesuvius streak up into the 
sky, and hving over in my mind Glaucus' and Tone's 
flight from Pompeii, when I was told I must come 
and see the Tarantella. I recall that I was not at all 
enthusiastic, for I did not know anything about it, 
and, as is generally the way when we are supremely 
ignorant of a thing, we are unreasonably indifferent 
to it; but nothing could be prettier, brighter or more 
jolly than the gay dance of the Sorrento peasants, as 
they merrily played their castanets, dancing through 
one figure after another, making the most picturesque 
scene in their bright colored costumes. 

But this time we did not stay long in Sorrento, as 
we were anxious to get on here. We spent the 
afternoon wandering about the town, and in the 
evening played bridge with the Henrys, who are with 
us on this little trip. Mr. Henry is a delightful man 
and an excellent bridge player. He came over in 
the steamer with us, and is going on to India with 
his son, whom he met in Naples, when this little 

. [36] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

jaunt is over. Once in Italy he could not make up 
his mind to go directly away, and so proposed that 
we four make a few days' excursion together over 
ground we all enjoy so much. 

This morning we made an early start from the 
hotel in order that we might get the full benefit of 
the beautiful early morning light effects. As we 
drove out of Sorrento, we passed the Villa of Mrs. 
Howe's nephew, Marion Crawford, who spends most 
of his time here now. I always like to read his 
books when I am in Italy, they have so much local 
color. How can I tell you of our drive of this 
morning or describe to you this beautiful place where 
I am writing ! The poets have sung its praises in all 
the languages, and yet no pen has ever quite done 
justice to the reality. You remember, we thought 
the drive from Sorrento to Castellammare very 
beautiful, but it is not to be compared with the 
one we have taken this morning. The road follows 
along the coast all the way, and we had constantly 
changing views of the lovely gulf of Salerno. We 
passed through numerous little towns built high up 
on the side of the cliffs, and were particularly en- 
chanted with the view of Positano, as the carriage 
wound around curve after curve, giving us varied 
glimpses of this strange little town. We kept saying 

[37] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

to each other, " When shall we see beautiful Positano 
again." Out in the gulf we saw the Isles of the 
Sirens, often called I Galli, which are very pic- 
turesque, and on many of the rocky promontories 
that jut out into the water are interesting ruins of 
the watchtowers that belonged to the early cen- 
turies. The road skirts the highest houses of the 
town of Positano and winds in and around the rocky 
cliffs, until at last we reached this pretty and historic 
town of Amalfi. 

After passing through the town of Vettica Minore, 
high above which is a nunnery, we found ourselves 
just below this old Capuchin monastery. We left 
our carriage, and men took us in chairs up a long 
flight of steps leading from the street to the terrace 
of the monastery, which stands in the hollow of a 
rock that rises straight out of the sea at a height of 
two hundred feet. It was founded in 1 2 1 2 by Cardi- 
nal Pietro Capuano for the Cistercians, but came into 
the possession of the Capuchins later on in 1 500, and 
is now fitted up as a most excellent hotel. Nothing 
could be more magnificent than the views we have 
from the terrace where I am writing out of doors, 
yes, in December ; I know it does seem inconsistent, 
but I have just picked roses from the vines growing 
at my side, am writing on a garden table, and yet I 

[38] 



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am quite comfortable in a fur-lined coat. It is all 
very inconsistent apparently, but, in any case, most 
delightful. After an excellent lunch here, which 
we had in the old refectory formerly used by the 
monks, we made a tour of the really fine cloisters of 
the monastery, and saw where, only two years ago, 
a little chapel, with the rock into which it was 
built, broke off and slid down into the blue waters 
below. Every now and then a great piece of this 
cliff goes crashing down to the sea, taking with it 
everything in its path, but now they have arranged 
special protection for the rest of the cloisters, and 
I surely hope that they may be spared, for they are 
very lovely, and from them one has such splendid 
views. 

I am sorry that we did not arrange to stay here 
longer, for there are several excursions from here that 
I should like very much to make, but as our plans 
are now, we shall go on this afternoon as far as Cava 
dei Tirreni, where we are planning to pass the night. 
Next time I come, I hope you may be with me, and 
we will surely plan to stay in this enchanted spot 
three or four days at the very least. In a little book 
that I picked up just now in the reading room, I 
came across Longfellow's poem on Amalfi, and these 
lines seem to me especially appropriate : 

[39] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

" This is an enchanted land 1 
Round the headlands far away 
Sweeps the blue Salernian bay 
With its sickle of white sand : 
Further still and furthermost 
On the dim discovered coast 
Paestum with its ruins lies. 
And its roses all in bloom 
Seem to tinge the fatal skies 
Of that lovely land of doom/* 

This little lively town that has now but seven 
thousand inhabitants was formerly a very prosperous 
seaport ; indeed, it defied the Norman sovereigns 
of Naples, carried on war with Pisa, and at last be- 
came subjected to the kings of the House of Anjou 
and Arragon. Somewhere about 1 340 a terrible in- 
undation destroyed more than half of the city which 
lies buried in the sea. 

" Swallowed by the engulfing waves ; 
Silent streets and vacant halls. 
Ruined roofs and towers and walls : 
Hidden from all mortal eyes. 
Deep the sunken city lies : 
Even cities have their graves ! " 

But this small town is still very energetic, and there 
are manufactures here, we are told, of paper, silk and 
macaroni; and the various little villages that belong 
to it are very prosperous with their vineyards, and 

[40] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

send off quantities of wine, oil and fruit each year 
over the seas. 

I had forgotten that the compass was invented here 
by Flavio Gioia, but Mr. Henry reminded us that 
the tavole Amalfitane were for centuries the accepted 
maritime law of the Mediterranean. 



[41] 



To E. F. D. B. 



CAVA 



December 30, 1904 

My dear M.: 

WE reached here safely this evening, after 
a drive that vied in beauty and gran- 
deur of scenery with the one we took 
this morning. 

On the road we were so enchanted with the 
views that, to make them last a little longer, we 
left the carriage and walked. Our carriage was a 
sort of open landau, drawn by three ponies, two 
harnessed in the regular way, and another hitched 
on queerly at one side. As we walked along, we 
came up with a man dressed in a very good 
black suit. He looked the Italian peasant in every 
way but his clothes. He bowed, and Mr. H. asked 
me to speak to him. So I asked him if he had 
been in America. He was very ready to respond, 
and told us he had a son in Nuova Jersa (New 
Jersey), that he had been in Australia, New Zealand, 

[42] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

South America and several times to New York. 
He said his farm was near Amalfi and that he 
often came back to it. He had been very prosper- 
ous in his journeys, but thought the "bigga mon" 
was in America, where he had bought a fine gold 
watch and chain that he showed us with evident 
pride. 

The people of these southern shores of Italy 
are and have been of many races, Greeks, Corin- 
thians, even Arabians and Persians have left their 
traces on these southern coasts, and the inhabitants 
to-day show many characteristics that differ from 
all other Italians. Most of the Italians who go over 
to us in America are from the southern part of 
Italy, Naples and its vicinity. 

As we talked, a pretty little bare-footed girl 
carrying a bundle of grass on her head, and an empty 
fish basket in her hands, joined us. " Giovannina,' she 
replied when I asked her name. She had been to 
sell her fish, and had gathered grass for her goat 
as she returned. She was rather shy, but when she 
left the road to climb up to her little home, high 
up on the hill-side, she found her voice, and called 
loudly to her little dog, '' Pasqualino'' (such a pretty 
name), to follow. 

This is an odd little town, tucked away in the 

[43] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

mountains, and high up on one of the neighboring 
rocky summits is situated a monastery. The town 
consists only of a long street of arcades, and it looks 
like a miniature city. Of course there is a main piazza 
(square) to give proper dignity to the church of the 
town. 

The former landlord of this hotel recently died. 
Mr. H. remembers him quite well and says he 
was quite a personage. In the little parlor this 
evening, while we were waiting for our rooms, 
I noticed numbers of letters from distinguished 
people, framed, and on inquiring I found they were 
addressed to the landlord, who has made this hotel 
quite famous, and has known and received many of 
the nobility of Europe. Mr. H. says that he formerly 
kept the hotel of the Capuchins also, and after dinner 
we were shown his portrait, painted by some very 
well known artist, but I cannot recall the name at 
this moment. 

To-morrow morning we start at a very early hour 
for Paestum. I do not know quite how it happens 
that I have never been there before, but I am looking 
forward with great interest to seeing the famous 
temples. We feel more as if we were in a palace than 
a hotel, and I think we must have the bridal suite of 
the house. The walls and furniture are upholstered in 

[44] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

yellow satin, and the beds are most elaborately carved 
and gilded, while all about our parlor are numerous 
pieces of really beautiful bric-a-brac. 

It is too cold and dark to go out about the town 
so we are going to play bridge this evening. 



[45] 



VI 

To T. C. B. 

Naples, Italy, December 31, 1904 

My dear P. : 

WE are rather tired this evening, for al- 
though we have had a very pleasant day, 
we had quite an exciting time in getting 
home, and came very near not getting here at all to- 
night. We left Cava early this morning by train 
for Paestum, the thoughtful landlord having pre- 
pared a nice lunch for us to take with us. We were 
very grateful to him, for at Paestum there were no 
satisfactory accommodations. It was not long before 
we reached the station, called by the Italians, Pesto. 
On our right we had already caught glimpses of the 
beautiful temples bathed in the bright noonday sun, 
and having as a background the clear, deep blue of 
the gulf of Salerno, while, on our left, we beheld 
the peaks of the Calabrian mountains rising proudly 
into the Italian sky, their snow-capped brows re- 
minding us that while we could gather roses and 
oranges in the plains below, we must cling closely to 

[46] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

our furs to ward off the cold Tramontana winds, 
which brought cold messages from their high sum- 
mits, telling us that it was indeed winter. 

We had hardly alighted from the train before we 
were literally surrounded by small boys and girls 
tugging at our bundles, and seeing that there were 
no VQg\i\'3iV face hint (porters) about, we realized that 
we were really off the beaten path of travel. We 
carried our lunch with us to the temples, which are 
situated within easy walking distance of the station ; 
along the road we stopped at a gateway to see all 
that remains of an old forum. A fountain, sur- 
mounted by a broken statuette, had been converted 
into a washing tub for a family, whose back door 
looked out upon these ancient relics. Women were 
washing their linens, quite unmindful that here was 
the site of one of the most famous Greek cities of 
southern Italy — or Magna Grscia, as it was then 
called. 

The town was founded by the Greeks from 
Sybaris in the year B. C. 600, and called Posei- 
donia (City of Neptune). After the defeat of 
Pyrrhus, Poseidonia fell into the hands of the 
Romans, who founded the colony of Paestum, but it 
gradually declined, and from the time of Augustus 
has been known for its malarious air. Robert Guis- 

[47] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

card robbed the deserted town of its monuments and 
sculptures, and dear Poseidonia remained in its deso- 
late condition for many centuries, until, in modern 
times, the great beauty and perfection of the temples 
still remaining, attracted many students of art to the 
place. 

We walked through the streets of the present 
little town of Pesto, which comprises only a few 
huts, for very few people can live here — the place 
is so infected with malaria — and passing under the 
old Roman gate, a relic of the Roman rule, we soon 
came in sight of the great majestic temple of Nep- 
tune. That the temple has been claimed by its tute- 
lary god there can be little doubt, for there are many 
evidences that it has been subjected to the action of 
the water. Who knows ? Perhaps it was engulfed 
at the time of the great inundations which occurred 
in this region about 1343, when many of the cities 
of the gulf of Salerno were washed into a watery 
grave. But standing in this deserted valley, sur- 
rounded by ruined bits of marble, despoiled of all 
that made it really a place of worship, its altar and 
the great statue of its god, it seemed like the ghost 
of ancient Greece standing and almost speaking to 
us. I assure you, it was with a certain reverence 
that I mounted the great blocks of stone at one side 

[48] 



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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

of the front of the temole, and entered what was 
once the " Holy of Hohes." The temple is most im- 
pressive in its simple grandeur, and extremely pic- 
turesque with its many massive columns of yellow 
travertine, that, though worn and injured, are still 
gigantic in their strength. 

This is, as you know, the most perfect model of 
the Greek temple extant, and as we walked among 
the rows of the great columns, we discovered that in 
the water -worn stone innumerable tiny snails had 
made their home. I am afraid I was cruel enough 
to take out one or two to convince the incredulous 
of our party. It seemed to me such a pity that all 
the beautiful metopes, the statues of the impedi- 
menta, paintings, etc., found here, have been taken 
either to the museum at Palermo or Naples. I sup- 
pose that was the only way to preserve them, though 
they will never seem as real in a museum. 

We decided to have our lunch in the less perfect 
and probably older temple near by, that has been 
erroneously called a basilica, and young Mr. Henry, 
who has been making a study of Greek architecture, 
pointed out to me the row of columns in the centre 
of the temple, explaining that it was probably dedi- 
cated to two gods. We spread our lunch on one of 
the altar stones that has doubtless received many of- 

[49] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ferings to appease or implore favors from some 
ancient Greek god or goddess. I suppose we ought 
to have been properly impressed, but we were all 
having such a merry time, that I fear our spirits got 
the better of our sentiment. The children of the 
government keeper of the temples gathered about us, 
and begged for bits of our lunch. I wish you 
could have seen the way those little urchins grabbed 
at the meat which we gave them ; they were actually 
like little wild beasts, and I dare say, they had never 
tasted meat before ; when we told them they might 
have the empty apollinaris bottle, their joy knew no 
bounds. 

After lunch we walked over to the temple of Ceres,, 
which has the same purity of design as the other twa 
temples, but is much smaller, and has of necessity 
been somewhat restored. All three temples are built 
exactly in a straight line, but some little distance from* 
one another. Before we knew it, it was time for us 
to go. We took a last look at these really wonderful 
ruins and hurried to the little station, but my dear, 
one should never hurry in Italy — no one ever does 
but the foreigners. I cannot tell you how long we. 
waited before the little train came slowly puffing into 
view. When it did stop, all the seats seemed to be 
full, and we made frantic efforts to find an unoccu- 

[50] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

pied compartment — in vain. Things began to get 
desperate ; it was the only train for many hours, and 
we now vividly recalled all the stories of the Paestum 
malaria. The capo stazione (station-master) seemed 
to regard our distress in the light of a good joke, but 
at last, in despair, I rushed to the baggage car ; " E 
vietato ringresso (No admittance),'' shrieked the 
conductor, as he called, " Pronti (ready) ! " and made 
a motion as if to give the signal to start. 
Not getting that train meant not getting to 
Naples until midnight or perhaps not at all until 
to-morrow. It was awful ! I begged F. B. and the 
Henrys to go with me to the baggage car once 
more. " You must let us in, oh good Mr. Con- 
ductor!" I called; ^^ pagheremo benissimo (we will 
pay you well)." The magic word was spoken. 
With a pretence of reluctance, the conductor allowed 
us to bundle hastily one after another into the bag- 
gage car, and with a loud " Partenza[M\ aboard) !" 
we rolled away from Paestum. Bundles and baskets 
served as seats (we prayed they were not filled with 
eggs), and we rode thus most uncomfortably, though 
gratefully, for some time. At last, the conduc- 
tor condescended to tell us that our train would 
probably connect at the next station with the one for 
Naples. He was right ; by the narrow margin of 

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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

two minutes we caught the Naples train, jumped 
into the only first-class compartment, and reached 
here only an hour later than scheduled time, thank- 
ing our lucky stars that we had not been obliged to 
spend the night amid the ghosts and malaria of Paes- 
tum. All is well that ends well, and I would not 
have missed seeing the temples for a great deal. 



[52] 



VII 

To C. R. 

A BIT OF JAPAN 

Naples, January 3, 1905 
My dear Caira : 

TWO years ago, when we were here, we 
had the rarest sort of good luck in meet- 
ing a number of Japanese Naval officers. 
They had been sent by the Emperor of Japan to 
England for the Coronation Ceremonies of His 
Majesty, King Edward VII. It came about in this 
way: One evening our Italian maid told us about 
the arrival of the Japanese Ambassador in the ho- 
tel. The next morning we looked out of our win- 
dows to see the two "crack " ships of the Japanese 
Navy lying at anchor in the harbor — the Asama 
and the Takasago. F. B. was perfectly wild to go 
over them, for as you know, he is tremendously in- 
terested in all matters pertaining to naval armament. 
We asked the Japanese Ambassador if he would 
give us a note to the Admiral, as we were most anx- 
ious to go over the ships. With the usual Jap- 

[53] 



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anese courtesy and politeness, an invitation was at 
once sent to us to come on board the Asama. 
We lost no time in accepting, and two charming 
officers met us at the ship's ladder, and showed us 
all about. I assure you, you could have trailed your 
best ball-gown over every part of that ship, it 
was so spotlessly clean. 

F. B. says they are Armstrong-built ships and 
have all the latest improvements. The Asama is 
an armored cruiser of 9800 tons displacement, and 
is about the same as our Brooklyn, while the Taka- 
sago is of 4200 tons displacement, an unarmored 
or protected cruiser. I did not realize before that 
every officer in the Japanese Navy is obliged to 
speak English, and they do speak it very well in- 
deed. Naturally, we found we must speak slowly, 
and speak plain English, minus all slang. We nearly 
disgraced ourselves once, by laughing right out 
at a remark that one of the young officers made. 
F. B. was much interested in one of the quick-firing 
guns, and said to the officer, "Won't you please have 
that gun opened once more, I am not very much 
up on that gun?" Quite seriously, the officer replied, 
"But, sir, you do not stand upon the gun." After 
that we tried to leave out all idioms and slang, 

[54] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and by speaking slowly and distinctly got along 
splendidly. 

The Admiral's apartments were perfectly stunning. 
The Emperor's and the Empress's portraits hung 
on the wall, framed in the most exquisite Japanese 
lacquer; beautiful Japanese vases were all about, filled 
with imitation Japanese cherry blossoms; they 
looked so real that I smelled of one, and when 
I laughed at my own mistake, the officer said, 
^*Many other people have done the same thing; 
but," he explained, " the cherry blossom is the em- 
blem of the Japanese Navy, and, as you see, we all 
have cherry blossoms embroidered on our caps. 
Here," he said, pointing to some of the decoration 
on the walls, " is the chrysanthemum, the flower 
of our Empress." We went into the wireless tel- 
egraphy room, and then out through the main part 
of the ship, where the sailors were being drawn 
up in line, and given doses of quinine before they 
were allowed to go on shore. It was too funny to 
see each one taking his dose as the doctor passed 
along. They all looked so strong, so well and so 
clean, and even the sailors seemed to have most 
dexterous fingers, for I saw two of them copy- 
ing music manuscript for the band to play, 

[55] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

in a way that would have made a French copyist 
envious. 

When we apparently had seen everything there 
was to see, the officers invited us down to the mess 
room to have tea, made in the Japanese fashion. 
The tables were just like those on our men-of-war, 
and the officers told us that lunch and dinner were 
served in the "European way/' as he put it, and 
breakfast in the Japanese fashion, on the floor. The 
tea was served in very small bowls, and looked a 
bright sage green, while bits of pink and white 
Japanese sweets were served with it, to replace su- 
gar, I suppose. It looked and tasted exactly like 
the tea that I had at the Chicago Exposition, that 
was called "Japanese Ceremony Tea." It was pretty 
bitter, but I think I could get used to the taste 
and like it. When we were ready to go, the officers 
brought me some lovely Japanese silks, and some 
pretty fans, upon which I asked them to write their 
autographs in Japanese. "Failing in nothing," they 
presented F. B. with some lovely lacquer boxes ; 
and just as we were leaving, asked us to go with 
them the next day to Pompeii. They have some 
special privilege from the government, which they 
said they could give us as well. 

We did go to Pompeii, the next day, and had a 

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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

most delightful time with our new Japanese acquain* 
tances. Of course, the Italian officials had been duly 
notified of the intended visit of the Japanese officers, 
so that the best of the government guides were waiting 
to receive us when we arrived. 

The train passed through the little towns of 
Torre del Greco and Torre Annunziata, where the 
coral is worked almost exclusively. The excavations 
in Herculaneum, we were told, have to be made in 
tunnels under these towns; that is one reason why 
they are so very expensive. 

We had luncheon at once at the little hotel near 
the station, and directly after, started out to see the 
wonders of the "city of the dead '' We have been 
there several times before, and you have been there 
too, so I shall write you only about the new discoveries. 

The house of the Vettii, which then was opened 
to no one without special government permission, 
was especially interesting, and thanks to our Japanese 
friends, it was shown to us in the most careful and 
delightful way. The beautiful paintings on the walls, 
the marble decorations of the peristyle — in fact, every 
thing found here has been left in situ. It is by 
far the best preserved and most beautiful house in 
Pompeii. The large room on the right of the peri- 
style, I thought, the most interesting of all. Here 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

on the walls are fascinating paintings of cupids, 
represented as doing all sorts of things: throwing 
stones at a target, pressing and selling wine, manufac- 
turing and selling oil, having chariot races, etc., and 
the detail of these paintings is simply marvelous. It 
seems beyond belief that these colors can have kept 
eighteen hundred years. They were a very luxurious 
family, evidently, these Vettii, for everything about 
the place where they dwelt bespeaks wealth, pleasure 
and luxury. The Japanese seemed most interested in 
everything, and showed a keen appreciation for all 
that was most exquisite artistically. We were glad to 
revisit with them our favorite spots in Pompeii, the 
House of Glaucus (I bought a new copy of the "Last 
Days of Pompeii'' yesterday), the Temple of Isis, 
where all the hypocrisy of the priests is so beauti- 
fully shown up in their little secret passages and 
doors. It seems a pity that they could not have left the 
beautiful statues found here, in their original places ; 
but of course, after one has been here a number of 
times, and knows the museum pretty well by heart, 
one can fit the two things together in one's mind. 

The voices of this depopulated city of Pompeii, 
the favorite resort of the Roman Empire, suffocated, in 
all the strenuousness of a life of joy and dissipation 

[58] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

by the ashes and lava of Vesuvius, have been studied 
by all v^ho are desirous of learning the customs and 
history of this remote past. It always seems to me 
that from the monuments and houses turned, after 
so many centuries, to the light of the sun, one can 
read with clearer evidence that from all the writ- 
ings and histories of the poets, what was the real 
life of this decadent Rome, which, having arrived 
at the summit of her power, gave herself over 
totally to ruin and dissolution. Even the walls have 
their revelation upon them 

Roughly traced, you can see designs even on the 
outer ramparts, sentences, satirical verses, words of 
love, of hate, bets and threats, exclamations of 
joy and despair, remote voices that seem those of 
yesterday, because they are spontaneous. As a dis- 
tinguished Professor has truly said, "We seem to 
still hear the beating heart from which they sprang, 
and the trembling of the lips that pronounced 
these very words.'' More fragmentary inscriptions 
have been found of unusual interest, but many of 
them are of a dissolute nature, not suitable for 
translation. 

As we wandered about these ruins, I was con- 
stantly reminded of Shelley's lines : 

[59] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

" I stood within the city disinterred ; 
And heard the autumnal leaves like light foot-falls 
Of spirits passing through the streets ; and heard 
The mountain's slumberous voice at intervals 
Thrill through those roofless halls. 
The oracular thunder penetrating shook 
The listening soul in my suspended blood : 
I felt that Earth out of her deep heart spoke — 
I felt, but heard not. Through white columns glowed 
The isle-sustaining ocean flood, 
A plane of light between two heavens of azure." 

We returned to Naples in the late afternoon, 
and F. B. gave a dinner for the Japanese officers. 
I felt very odd at the table, being the only woman. 
I noticed at the beginning of each course, several 
of the officers watched me very closely, and I won- 
dered why. Presently one of them said to me, "It 
is very hard for us Japanese to know just which 
is the proper knife and fork to take at each course." 
I laughed and replied, "There are a good many 
people who know as little as you, since the jew- 
elers change their fashions so often, it is hard for 
any one to keep pace with their new shapes and styles." 
I felt quite proud to sit at the head of the table, 
surrounded by so many brass buttons and stunning 
uniforms. The officers certainly looked extremely 
well, and evidently had a good time. During the 
dinner some Italian musicians came in with their 

[60] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

guitars and mandolins, and sang my pet Neapolitan 
songs; and after coffee and cigars, we drove over to 
a little summer theatre at one side of the Castello 
delF Ovo. F. B. had a large box for us, and I trans- 
lated the bright little comic opera for the officers, 
as best I could. After the first act, the orchestra 
struck up the Italian National Hymn, and to our 
great amazement, the audience turned deliberately 
around, and cheered our box three times. We could 
not imagine what it meant, until it suddenly oc- 
curred to me that it was the twentieth of September, 
the national holiday that United Italy celebrates in 
commemoration of the day when the victorious 
Italian army entered Rome, in 1870. I felt very 
much embarrassed, as did F. B., but the Japanese 
officers remained calm and unruffled, and bowed their 
acknowledgments to the crowd below in a graceful 
manner. Kipling has said of some of us Americans, 
**that we have a great deal of manner and very few 
manners," but he ought to be satisfied with the Jap- 
anese, who know exactly what to do and say on all 
occasions. 

After the play was over, we jumped into cabs and 
drove to the pier, where the launch was waiting to 
take the officers back to the ships. They sailed away 
the next day, and we 've had postals quite frequently, 

[61] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and letters now and again from one or more of them 
ever since. The first letter I received, was directed 
to F. B., but began " My dear Mrs. Batcheller/' on 
the inside. Was n't it the extreme limit of oriental 
politeness to allow F. B. the first reading of a letter 
to his wife from a stranger? As I replied in a rea- 
sonably short time, letters since then have come ad- 
dressed directly to me. It is about time for us to 
hear from them again, and now that the war is on^ 
we are, more than usual, anxious to know that they 
are all right. 

F. B. has just come in with the horrid news of 
the sinking of the Japanese cruiser Takasago on 
the night of December 12th. How odd that I 
should just be writing you about it ! It was sunk by 
a floating mine at sea. The Captain Ishibashi stood 
on the forebridge and addressed the crew, five hun- 
dred in number, who assembled on the upper deck. 
He ordered everybody on board to equip himself 
with a life-buoy, and added, ''No one must leave 
the ship until she sinks, we will share together the 
fate of the vessel." The account says the crew then 
sang a naval song. Fancy their wishing to sing just 
before the ship plunged to the bottom ! Three 
boats had been lowered with their regulation crews 
on board. The waves were running high, and the 

[62] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

fate of the boats themselves seemed at times precari- 
ous, but the warship Otawa came to their rescue. 
Only one hundred and thirty-three persons were 
saved, however, including Captain Ishibashi himself. 

We are fearfully upset at this news, but F. B. says 
very likely our friends have been transferred to other 
ships, so I am hoping for the best. 

We are going out to Pompeii to-morrow, and it 
will recall most vividly our delightful day spent 
with Lieutenants Hatano and Arawo, and others of 
the Japanese party. 



[63] 



VIII 
To T. C. B. 

THE BRONZES OF THE NAPLES MUSEUM 

Naples, January 5, 1905 
My dear Papa: 

THIS morning we went to the museum, and 
have passed a most deHghtful day, taking a 
bit of lunch at the nearest restaurant at 
noon-time. Of course, many people have seen these 
bronzes, but many, I think, do not quite realize their 
exact position in the world of art, nor understand 
why we find the only large bronzes of the ancients 
here and nowhere else; and perhaps you will be in- 
terested to hear a few of the results of my recent 
studies on this subject. 

These bronzes are generally believed to be of 
Greek workmanship, and to represent the best of 
ancient Greek art, but when I say Greek, you must 
remember that there was no Greek or Hellenic na- 
tion in the true sense of the word. The Greek or 
Hellenic peoples existed not as organized and com- 
pact societies, to which might be given the name of 



GLIMP^SES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

nation, but in separated cities, each independent and 
by itself, acknowledging no over-lord, and deeming 
the right to make war upon their nearest neighbors 
the highest of their privileges. The city had first 
been the tribe, the tribe had been the family, and over 
the family ruled the father, who worshipped his 
father and his father's father as the especial gods of 
his household, hence, as you know, the expression 
Lares et Penates. 

The fabric of all Greek society was then almost 
exclusively religious. The sacred fire was not to be 
tended by aliens or foreigners, and must be perpetu- 
ally maintained in each city. But in spite of this 
exclusiveness and isolation, a certain feeling of 
kinship sprang up between the peoples calling them- 
selves Hellenes. In their various customs, and especi- 
ally in a similarity of language, which distinguished 
them from other tribes, we find characteristics that, 
in a way, may be regarded as national. There was, 
also, a certain religious sympathy and feeling, for 
those who had left the Hellespont, and settled west- 
ward on the south shores of Italy, where they were 
known by those left behind, as the " grey folk," peo- 
ple of the gloaming, graioi, graeciy or Greeks. 
With these tribes the Romans first came into con- 
tact, and thus the word "Greeks" became a designa- 

[65] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

tion for the whole Hellenic race. Admitting the 
social and intellectual differences between the lowest 
and most advanced of the Greek tribes, the contrast 
with the great Asiatic empires marks so clear a line 
as to make it almost a necessity to speak of Greek 
national character. 

"For the Assyrian or the Persian/' a noted his- 
torian says, " the human body was a thing to be in- 
sulted and mutilated at his will, to be disgraced by 
servile prostrations, or to be offered in sacrifice to 
wrathful and bloodthirsty deities. For him, woman 
was a mere chattel, while his children were posses- 
sions of which he might make profit by selling them 
into slavery. Of these abominable usages the Greek 
practically knew nothing; and as he would have 
shrunk from the gouging out of eyes, and slitting of 
ears and noses, so on the other hand the sight of the 
unclothed body, which carried to the Oriental a 
sense of unseemliness and shame, filled the Greek 
with delight ; and the exhibition of this form, in 
games of strength and skill, became, through the 
great festivals of the separate or collective tribes, 
bound up intimately with his religion. Yet further, 
this respect for the person, was accompanied by a 
moral self-respect, which would submit to no servile 
or unseemly humiliations." 

[66] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

The festivals of the polls or city were very- 
large, but as these gatherings v^ere purely religious, 
they were no hindrances to the union, and thus from 
the small family gatherings, sprang the magnificent 
assemblies, which made the names of Olympia, Delos 
and Nemea famous, while the guardianship of the 
great temples erected at these places, made the bond 
of religious union still firmer and closer. The full 
influence of these festivals on education can scarcely 
be imagined, for to these gatherings was attracted all 
that was noble and high-minded in Greek society, 
and the young man returning to his clan, or tribe, 
was haunted by the magic music of the Delian 
hymns, lyric songs such as no other age or land has 
ever equalled. Like poetry, so art in the form of 
wonderful temples began to be developed. These 
were beautifully decorated with elaborate impedi- 
menta, and sculpture reached almost perfection. 

But for the political disunion of the Hellenic 
races, the growth of Imperial Rome might have 
been forever checked. The Greeks could progress 
along all lines of growth, save in the belief that to 
be independent they must be dependent on each 
other, that they must sacrifice some individual im- 
portance to the importance of the race as a whole. 
This they refused to see, so in time they became 

[67] 



• GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

merely the teachers, the artists, really the employees, 
the skilled laborers, of the Romans. Thus when we go 
to the Museum in Naples, and are shown countless 
treasures in bronze, made by the finest Greek artists, 
bearing Greek inscriptions, and are told that they 
were taken from the houses of rich Romans in Pom- 
peii and Herculaneum, we remember the saying of 
Benjamin Franklin, "We must all hang together or 
we shall all hang separately," — which was precisely 
what happened to the Greek cities one after another. 
It is an ill wind, however, that blows no one good, 
and to-day, had the Greeks not been forced to give 
of their talents and arts to the Romans, it is more 
than likely that the world would have few, if any, of 
these priceless treasures. Indeed, wicked old Vesu- 
vius performed a great service to modern art, by cov- 
ering up these beautiful bronzes so well that the 
ruthless robbers of the Middle Ages could not get at 
them, and melt them up for weapons and coins. Of 
the other great bronzes in which the world of 
Magna Graecia, the Hellespont and later Rome un- 
doubtedly abounded, these only are left to us. General 
Francis Walker in his interesting work, " Money,'' 
tells how the treasure of the world was gradually 
dissipated during the Middle Ages. How, at first, 
in the earliest times, treasure seems to have been 

[68] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

hoarded away by one conqueror after another, from 
Darius, Croesus, Alexander, etc., until about six 
hundred millions of dollars were probably accumu- 
lated. After the Greek and Roman conquests of 
the world, this treasure was made use of in part, 
as coin. Later, in the time of the Roman Em- 
perors, the mines were leased out to individuals, 
who, caring nothing for the mine beyond what 
they could extract from it during their rental of 
it, took out only the best of the metal, heaping 
the refuse over the less valuable extracts, till after 
years of similar treatment, the mine could no 
longer be worked to advantage. With the adoption 
of coins as a medium of exchange, the abrasion of 
metal meant the loss of many thousands each year, 
while much of the precious metal of the world was 
probably lost by flood, shipwreck, fire, etc. Gradu- 
ally with the abuses of the Roman Empire, and the 
disuse of the mines, the treasures of the world gradu- 
ally disappeared, until the gold and silver coins 
were replaced with copper and iron. To supply 
this need of money, the many bronze figures were 
melted up and made into coins. Finally the coins 
became almost exclusively iron, and the bolts of the 
Colosseum were extracted for the necessary currency 
of the time. Hence we have no wonderful large 

[69] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

bronzes at Athens, nor at Rome, indeed nowhere, 
except where the vast lava streams of Vesuvius put 
them beyond the avarice and greed of the wild in- 
vaders from the North, during the dark days of the 
Middle Ages. Here, then, is the explanation why 
we find in the Museum at Naples probably the only 
originals of the old Greek art in bronze. 

Nearly all students of the dim past believe that 
most, if not all, of the famous statues now seen in 
large marble, were originally made in smaller 
bronzes, and afterwards copied in marble. Surely 
there are many facts that seem to confirm this 
theory. If we examine carefully the "Venus of 
Milo," the "Venus of Capua," and the small bronze 
of "Venus at Her Toilet," in the bronze collection 
at Naples, we shall see a striking similarity in pose 
and treatment. That this small bronze was the 
original, is not at all certain, but that all three were 
taken from some larger bronze model, there can be 
little doubt. It is generally admitted that the origi- 
nal of these Venuses was a work of the fourth 
century B. C, which stood on the Acrocorinthus. 
On Corinthian coins Venus, the tutelary goddess 
of the city, is represented in a similar attitude, 
in the act of using a shield as a mirror. Some 
authorities state positively that the " Venus of 

[70] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Milo," a work o£ the second century before Christ, 
was modelled on the same original as the Venus of 
the Corinthian coin, and by many is considered a 
" Victory '* rather than a " Venus." 

Another interesting comparison is seen in the 
"Venus of Medici," now in the Uffizi Gallery at 
Florence, the "Venus Capitolina" in Rome, and 
the three small statues of Venus in marble in the 
Museum of Naples. These all probably were modelled 
from some wonderful bronze lost to us forever. 
The Roman Empresses were generally anxious to 
be represented in sculpture as Venus, and these three 
last mentioned statues are thought to be portraits 
of the Empresses of Imperial Rome. 

Another interesting comparison is found between 
the famous "Winged Victory" in marble in Rome, 
and the small "Winged Victory" in bronze at the 
Naples Museum. Some one has said that the real 
truth is never known of any event that is past, 
and this is perhaps true, yet circumstantial evidence 
has been sufficiently strong, in many cases, to lead 
the best and most thorough students of ancient art to 
arrive at certain definite conclusions. An eminent 
professor, in his work on ancient art, states positively 
that the beautiful marble head of " Hera," called by 
some the "Farnese Juno," is merely a replica of a 

[71] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

bronze original, executed by Polycletus, as a standard 
example of the system of proportion established by 
him. Here, as in many of the bronzes, the eyes 
were to have been of some other material, glass, 
stone, or silver, and joined to the statue. 

The same enthusiasm is experienced for the group 
of tyrant slayers, "Harmodius and Aristogeiton," 
probably a marble copy of the bronze of Critios and 
Nesiotes which stood in the market-place at Athens. 
The Argive School of the latter half of the fifth 
century B. C. acknowledged as its head Polycletus. 
He often modelled from early works of the Athenian 
School, and altered them to his ideal of symmetry 
and beauty. An excellent example of his style is 
seen in the fine bronze reproductions of his Dory- 
phorus, from the palestra at Pompeii. In this Nea- 
politan collection we find also many excellent ex- 
amples of the school of Praxiteles, especially in the 
bronze "Apollo'' from Pompeii, a work probably 
of the fifth century B. C, and the only bronze statue 
hitherto found at Pompeii of a natural size. The 
eyes are of marble, and the left hand probably held 
a lyre. In fact nearly all stages of Greek art may 
be traced in this collection. A very early period is 
represented by the head of a youth remarkable for 
the soldering on of the hair. 

[72] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

The so-called "Dancing Women/' five large 
bronze statues, which are represented at the back of 
the picture, are supposed to represent actresses, as they 
were found in the theatre at Herculaneum. There 
are three others similar, but rather smaller. A 
strange effect is produced, by the use of the stone 
eyes, giving the features the appearance of living 
negroes. These figures are said to belong to the 
same cycle as the sculptures at Selinus and Olympia. 

A bearded head, another interesting work, once 
erroneously called Plato, illustrates the artistic form 
of the stage represented by Myron ; while later art, 
the authorities tell us, is shown in the world-famous 
statue of Narcissus, now called Dionysos. You 
recall the story of Narcissus, the beautiful youth 
with whom nymphs and naiads were always falling 
in love. Poor Echo, a young nymph, who had 
been punished by Juno for having talked too much, 
and had had her voice taken from her, except to 
repeat what others said to her, had also fallen prey 
to the charms of the beautiful Narcissus. Tradition 
has it that she wasted away until nothing was left 
but her voice. Narcissus listened to her praises, and 
in this posture we see him in the bronze. The story 
says he remained unmoved by her love, and as he had 
remained unmoved by all the affections bestowed 

[73] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

upon him, the avenging Goddess Nemesis caused him 
to fall in love with his own image reflected in the 
fountain, so he, in his turn, was punished. The 
story ends rather sadly, for we are told, that gazing 
upon his lovely form, he pined away, until he was 
eventually changed into the flower that bears his name. 
It rather offended my illusion that some sober pro- 
fessor now prefers to call the beautiful figure Di- 
onysos, since the listening posture distinctly suggests 
the myth of Narcissus and Echo. 

The bronzes from Pompeii and those from Her- 
culaneum are easily distinguished by their different 
colors. Those from Herculaneum are of a dark 
black-greenish color, while those from Pompeii are 
oxidized and of a light blue-green hue. The differ- 
ence is due, it is thought by some, to a difference in 
treatment, while others maintain that the bronzes 
from Herculaneum, being protected by much lava, 
escaped the oxidizing which the falling ashes gave 
to the bronzes from Pompeii. 

Almost the first bronze that meets our eye when we 
enter this place of wonders, is the "Colossal Horse," 
reconstructed from over two hundred fragments. We 
feel that it must have been one of a quadriga, and as 
we stand before the huge creature, it seems ready to 
prance out of the Museum at any moment. Strength 

[74] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and beauty are in every line. There is another enor- 
mous horse's head, that was a part of the horse 
that decorated the vestibule of the temple of 
Neptune, in the days when Naples was Neapolis, 
and the guide tells us that this head was converted 
into a bell by a superstitious priest at the Church of 
St. Gennaro; it was later taken to the Museum. 
We are shown many small bronzes intended for 
fountains. Among the most interesting to me was 
the "Boy with the Wine-skins," from which the 
water flowed, and to-day , in Naples, the boys may 
be seen carrying water in precisely this way, in the 
same sort of skins. 

A strangely interesting discovery was made in a 
Herma of Lucius Caecilius Jucundus, erected, as the 
Greek inscription tells us, by his freedman Felix, 
and found at Pompeii. That he was a banker, is 
proved by the finding of a carbonized box at Pom- 
peii in June, 1875, containing about five hundred 
triptychs, and receipts for money advanced by him. 
The head is so life-like with its stone eyes, colored 
pupils, the gaze so searching, that I immediately 
congratulated myself that my January i st bills were 
all paid. 

It is impossible to tell you about all this vast 
collection in detail, so I am coming now to the 

[75] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

great masterpieces, having saved the best for the 
last. 

Nothing in the world of art is more graceful, and 
more beautiful than the " Resting Hermes,'' com- 
monly known to us by his Roman name of Mercury. 
Here is a perfect representation of vigorous, lithe 
youth at a moment of complete relaxation ; yet one 
feels that at any moment the figure may spring 
into life, so real is the portrayal of reserve strength. 
It always rests me to look at the perfect calm, thus 
wonderfully represented, and the Museum authori- 
ties have most wisely arranged a bench near by, 
where every one involuntarily goes to rest with the 
statue, and admires while resting. Our heads were 
nearly turned by the numerous wonders that de- 
manded our attention. We were so glad to see 
again the world-famed statuette of the " Dancing 
Faun," found in the house named from the statuette 
in Pompeii. He is all movement and careless 
merriment, while on the other hand, the drunken 
" Silenus " seems to be all effort and muscular exer- 
tion. We turn from these to the statue of the 
"Sleeping Satyr," with his filled pigskin (used as a 
wine-flask) at his side. He is surely asleep, and it 
is a great work of art, though not as pleasing to the 
eye as some others. Of course one must admire 

[76] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the incomparable art of the utterly irresponsible 
"Drunken Faun/' who lies back, laughing at all the 
world in his drunken debauch, and snapping his fin- 
gers at the possible consequence of his revel. I 
agree that it is a capolavoro (masterpiece), but it 
is too frightfully realistic to be agreeable, and I 
slighted him to-day to enjoy the marvelous strength, 
activity and alertness of the "Wrestlers/' Surely 
nothing can be more perfect than their beautiful 
limbs trained so admirably for muscular action, and 
one cannot but admire their perfection and bodily 
development, that was attained to be displayed in 
the great national religious festivals of the Greeks. 
No wonder the Greeks were great sculptors with 
such models. If it were a part of the religion of 
to-day to perfect human health, I fancy our race 
would be nearer physical perfection than it is. I am 
always somewhat surprised at the statue of "Diana," 
with her strange, glass-enameled eyes. Her left arm is 
broken off and is hollow, and at the back of the statue 
is a little hole in the neck, from which priests spoke, at 
the temple of Apollo at Pompeii, where the statue 
was found, making people believe that the voice 
proceeded from the oracles above, when in reality 
their own voices resounded through the hollow 
bronze. The lovely Diana looks at you quite 

[77] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

frankly, as if resenting the deception practised 
through her. 

One of the most recent treasures found at Pompeii 
is the silver-plated statue called "Effebo" (Ephebus). 
The silver has become quite oxidized by the ashes, 
but the perfection of line and form of the statue is in 
no way injured. That silver was used not only in 
plating bronze, is proved when we behold the silver 
bust of " Galva." I admit that I had to be told that it 
was silver, but on examining it I was convinced. It 
is curious and interesting, but I should not call it beau- 
tiful. Some of the busts show bits of gold-plating, 
proving that sometimes statues were also gold-plated. 

We passed from room to room filled with count- 
less busts, some wonderful portraits, and some heads 
of unknown Greeks, many bearing Greek inscrip- 
tions. I was much interested in the small collection 
of little bronze busts ; in the portrait bust of Epicu- 
rus, especially because it so resembles a famous states- 
man, the Hon. Mr. F., whom I know in Canada. 

Indeed, we learn here that bronze was most exten- 
sively used by the ancients. We saw in the up- 
stairs bronze rooms this afternoon, many kitchen 
ranges of different sorts, some wonderful tripod 
lamps, tables and hundreds of other ornaments. 

The collection of small bronzes includes tripod 

[78] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

candelabra, lamps, braziers, money-chests, jars, jugs, 
bracelets, chains, such as Tiffany is glad to copy 
now ; kitchen utensils, doctors' instruments, all 
sorts of weapons, armour, and many other things 
that make us realize that there is nothing new under 
the sun. Will you believe it, even the rouge-pots 
were found, with the polished silver mirrors, at 
Pompeii ? The women then, as now, were always 
trying to please the other sex. The exquisite col- 
lection of Greek coins remind us that we are in a 
land that once was the thriving and envied seat 
of Greek culture, and we should be thankful that 
the Romans, instead of destroying that culture, 
knew how to use, maintain and encourage it. 

This collection of bronzes is surely unrivalled in 
the world ; the number and magnitude of the works, 
the delicate treatment adapted to the material, and 
the skilful mastery of every kind of difficulty in 
casting and chiselling, afford the best possible insight 
into the high development of this branch of art in 
ancient times. As I left the Museum, tired and 
weary, I made my very best bow to Vesuvius for hav- 
ing given me the privilege of enjoying these priceless 
and unique treasures. 



[79] 



IX 

To E. F. D. B. 

THE JOURNEY TO ROME 

January 7, 1905 
My dear Mother: 

HERE we are in Rome most comfortably- 
settled at the Hotel Bristol. We had to 
leave Naples at half-past five in the morn- 
ing, but some way we did not mind it at all. The 
landlord, the porter, and our ever faithful Pasquale, 
stood at the door and wished us a buon viaggio as if 
it were mid-day. We were sorry to go, but we 
always say a rivederla to Naples. 

The train was supposed to be heated — when the 
thermometer is 56 degrees Fahrenheit here, the na- 
tives think they are quite comfortable — but we had 
taken all proper precautions, and had furs, rugs and 
warm over-shoes, and a small flask in case of emer- 
gency. Fortunately we had a whole compartment 
to ourselves ; we spread out our rugs, and kept the 
windows closed, so that when the mists rose and the 
sun appeared, we became quite comfortable. As 

[80] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the train passed along through the out-lying farms of 
Naples, it seemed as if it must be spring, so much 
planting was going on. The farms are usually 
quite a distance from any house, so that rude little 
huts are built, where one or two men stay at night 
to watch over the gardens. Now and again, the 
train passed herds of the Italian water-buffalo. They 
are smaller than our American buffalo, with dark 
brown, shaggy hair, and their horns grow straight 
back from their ears, giving them a most unusual 
appearance. 

Quite in the American way, a very nice dining- 
car was attached to the train, and we passed a de- 
lightful day, enjoying the beauties of the scenery. 
As the train wound in and around the valley of the 
Garigliano, we had fine views of the rocky summits 
of the Abruzzi Mountains, and numerous glimpses 
of many of the picturesque little hill towns which 
we mean to come and visit some day. It seems as 
if some one had picked up a handful of tiny stone 
houses and dropped them deliberately on top of a 
hill or mountain, so that the last ones had slidden 
into place as best they could on the sides. 

High up on the mountain tops were perched 
severe, solid-looking monasteries, surrounded by high, 
massive stone walls, and bespeaking isolation, rigid 

[81] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

self-discipline, and bodily deprivation of all kinds. 
A rough, steep path could generally be traced from 
the monastery on the hill to the village below, show- 
ing that after all, these high-minded, spiritual friars 
are obliged to come in contact with every-day man 
and his life now and then. From Cassino, we were 
able to see the famous monastery of Monte Cassino, 
high up on the summit of the rock above us. That 
was the first and most famous of the monasteries 
founded by St. Benedict in 529 A. D., on the site of 
an ancient temple of Apollo, and it was there that the 
Saint died the 21st of March, 543. You remember, 
Dante alludes in his '' Paradiso'' to Monte Cassino 
and San Benedetto. 

" Quel monte, a cui Cassino e nella costa 
Fu frequentato gia in su la cima 
Dalla gente ingannata e mal disposta 
E quel son io che su vi portai prima 
Lo nome di Colui, che in terra addusse 
La verita, che tanto ci sublima 
E tanta grazia sovra me rilusse." 

" That mountain on whose slope Cassino is, was of 
old frequented on its summit by the deluded and ill- 
disposed people, and I am he who first carried up 
thither the name of Him who brought to earth the 
truth which so high exalts us : and such grace shone 

[82] 



I 



VIEW OF MONTE CASSINO 

SHOWING MONASTERY ON TOP OF MOUNTAIN 
From a ivater-color by C. Carelli 



m-zzf^^^ 




TRYPHQSA BATES EATCHELLER 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

upon me that I drew away the surrounding villages 
from impious worship which seduced the world." 

The monastery was declared a National monu- 
ment in 1866, but continues to exist now as an 
ecclesiastical educational establishment, with about 
forty monks and two hundred pupils. I was very 
sorry we had not planned to stay there a day or so, 
for the monks, who are of very high standing, allow 
people to stay over night, though ladies are given 
apartments in a building outside the monastery. 
The whole place is wonderfully picturesque, and the 
views from the monastery must be magnificent. 

A short time before we reached Rome, the train 
passed through Anagni, once the summer residence 
of Pope Boniface VIII, who was taken prisoner there 
and barely escaped death. The town looked very 
old and interesting, and I wished we might have 
stopped, but sometime I mean to motor through 
Italy, and then I can see all these interesting little 
places I have read about so much. 

When the train rolled into the broad Campagna, 
we saw the long line of broken aqueducts that 
you see represented in so many pictures. No 
wonder they are often painted; they certainly formed 
a beautiful picture against the pink sunset sky, as we 
saw them last night. The dome of St. Peter's seemed 

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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

like a pin speck in the distance, yet it was only a 
very short time before we were in Rome. The train 
was excellent — really. 

The custom-house officials were very nice to us 
about our spring water, although they looked rather 
incredulous, and I fancied a bit contemptuous. The 
idea of bringing water to Rome ! It seemed to them 
like bringing coals to Newcastle ; you do hear people 
say, that the water in Rome is very, very fine, but 
those same people are the ones who say, "Water 
is water," or, "Do try our well water, it is so nice 
and hard." Of course we paid no attention to the 
smiles of the officials, as we knew "jolly well" the 
worth of our own blessed ^abaug; yet when we told 
a lady yesterday, that it was the softest water in the 
world, and that a famous scientific friend in England 
had said it was a sure cure for gout, she replied, " I 
much prefer hard water, though it ruins the boilers 
in my house in an incredibly short space of time." 
Poor dear! I don't suppose she saw the irony of her 
own contradiction, for her " tumtum ' ' must be stronger 
than her steam boilers, according to her own story. 

The landlord at this hotel is an Italian, and very 
agreeable and obliging. The dining room is cheerful 
and pleasant, and all the waiters speak three or four 
languages. We have a delightful suite on the sunny 

[84] 



w 
Q 
Pi 

O 

;z; 
<! 

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04 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

side, overlooking the Barberini Gardens. The palace 
is lovely, and it is pleasant to have a pretty garden 
to look at every day. Our rooms are at the end of 
the house, so that my singing, I hope, will not disturb 
any one. We were so happy to get here again, we 
could not wait even to unlock our trunks before 
running down into the Piazza di Spagna. Every- 
thing is just as it was two years ago, and oh, so lovely ! 
Prof. Sgambati, who lives on the Piazza, told me 
that he had the nostalgia della Piazza di Spagna, 
because he never wanted to go anywhere else. He has 
had an apartment overlooking the square for twenty 
years, and although there are many other apartments 
elsewhere in Rome much more convenient, that he 
could have now-a-days, nothing would induce him 
to leave his beloved corner. 

We bought an armful of flowers from the pictur- 
esque flower girls, and passed a lot of the " red devils," 
as some call the German students in their bright 
scarlet robes, on the way up the steps to hear the nuns 
sing their lovely vespers in Santa Maria della Trinita. 

Rome ! Rome ! there is nothing like Rome in the 
whole world, and the more one comes here, the 
more one feels it ! 

I will write you again in a few days, when we 
are a little more settled. 

[851 



X 

To E. F. D. B. 

HIS HOLINESS, THE POPE, IN ST. PETER's 

Rome, Italy, January 8, 1905 
My dearest M. : 

WE have been in Rome only a few days, 
but we have already been blessed by His 
Holiness. The magnificent porter at our 
hotel told us this morning that there was to be an un- 
usual ceremony to-day at St. Peter's. It seems that 
the Pope was to canonize a French priest, Giovanni 
Vianney, of the parish of Ars, who has been dead 
some time, and whose life was especially holy and 
devoted to good works. 

We immediately sent word to R., who knows 
everybody, particularly at the Vatican, and asked 
him to get us two nice seats in one of the best 
tribunes. As usual, he worked the necessary magic, 
and at half past two in the afternoon we started off 
in our coupe to see the great beatification cere- 
mony. 

I had to wear a black velvet gown, and a long 

[86] 




^'£'S" 




HIS HOLINESS THE POPE PIUS X 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

black lace veil on my head — it was too funny, — -I 
felt like Donna Elvira in the opera of Don 
Giovanni. You remember hearing Nordica sing 
the role ? F. B. had to wear all black also. 

As we drove along the streets, we passed numer- 
ous carriages, many of them open in spite of the 
cold, filled with ladies and gentlemen, also going to 
the beatification; in fact, it seemed that all Rome 
was rolling toward St. Peter's, and that all the 
women were decked out in black lace veils. Distances 
are not so great in Rome, but even the poorer people 
felt that on this grand occasion they must have a 
carriage. 

Our driver took us across the bridge Ponte Sant' 
Angelo, so we had a splendid view of Hadrian's 
Tomb. I always think of it, though, as the Castello 
Sant' Angelo, and we have promised ourselves to go 
over it again while we are here, as there are very 
good and well-preserved frescoes in the interior, and 
altogether it is a most interesting place. 

It is a sort of preface anyway to going to the 
Vatican, as it was formerly the Pontifical residence, 
and Alexander V and John XXIII caused a covered 
passage from it to the Vatican to be built as a secret 
means of escape and communication in times of 
danger. 

[87] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

When we got into the Borgo, the crowds became 
immense, and our driver had to be very patient, 
working his way in and out among the people. 
Sometimes fifty years elapse between one beatifica- 
tion and another, so even the Romans, who are 
used to the Pope and the grand ceremonies at St. 
Peter's, were most anxious to take part in this un- 
usual event. 

Our ticket admitted us to the side door, and I 
soon found myself in a surging crowd of all sorts of 
people. Excited nuns were marshalling dozens of 
small children, from schools, I suppose, and stern 
looking friars lost their usual calm in their endeavor 
to get on, and secure their places in time for the en- 
trance of His Holiness. 

When one of the Pope's guard, arrayed in black 
velvet knee breeches, with mediaeval slashed sleeves 
and stiff Elizabethan ruff, had bowed us into our 
seats, we felt we were quite settled for some time, 
and could look about and thoroughly enjoy the 
scene before us. 

We had, thanks to R., excellent seats in one of 
the best tribunes near the high altar; and I found 
myself next to a distinguished old French lady, very 
richly dressed in black, and wearing a beautiful 
diamond tiara to hold her black lace veil in place. 

[88] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

She gives great sums to the Pope each year, and of 
course, would not have missed this canonization of 
one of her countrymen for anything. She had come 
expressly from Paris for the occasion. The somber- 
ness of the black and the brilliancy of the jewels in 
the open tribunes were very striking, and made a 
most unique picture. 

It seems so strange that everyone who goes to 
see the Pope must dress in deep black always, yet all 
of his guards and officers, with very few exceptions, 
wear the most brilliant uniforms. You are familiar 
with the Guardie Nobile, or Swiss Guard, with 
their stiff ruffs and their peculiar slashed uniforms 
of red and yellow. But to-day there were a dozen 
or more other brilliant uniforms worn by different 
guards and officers of the Pope's now miniature 
army. As they walked back and forth, seeing that 
every last arrangement was quite perfect for the 
entrance of His Holiness, one fancied that one 
might be in Mme. Tussaud's again, only here the 
figures all moved. 

The church was really magnificent. The vast 
columns of the central part were hung with crimson 
brocade embroidered in gold, and vast numbers of 
candles, now lighted by electricity, made the great 
church ablaze with light. The high altar was 

[89] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

simply beyond description. The rays of glory about 
the altar picture have had electric globes put all 
over them, and when they blazed into sparkling 
lights, you can imagine the effect. 

We had not waited long when the organ swelled 
forth a march, and more of the Pope's guard marched 
into the church in line, carrying their mediaeval lan- 
ces, and looking very grand and ferocious. It was most 
exciting. After them came the bishops with their 
gorgeous purples, then followed the long line of 
stately red-draped cardinals, wearing much fine lace ; 
and then, borne aloft by twelve men clothed in red 
brocade, came Pius X, seated in a golden chair, up- 
holstered in crimson. He wore a long white robe, 
and a crimson velvet cape heavily embroidered in 
gold. Slowly they carried him through the great 
church to the high altar, where he left his chair, and 
the canonization ceremonies were carried on in 
Latin. The choir sang divinely, the Pope's angel, as 
the famous male soprano of the choir of St. Peter's 
is called, giving out his rare, high notes. I am sure 
you must remember hearing him sing when we were 
here together a few years ago. After the short ser- 
vices, His Holiness was carried back through the 
church again. We were not twenty feet from him, 
and as I waved my handkerchief with everyone else, 

[90] 



o 
o 

O 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

he raised his hand to bless us all. Not a sound 
was heard ; — cheering is strictly forbidden on such 
occasions. 

He has one of the most beautiful hands I have ever 
seen, and as he made the sign of the cross with his 
two fingers, and bowed his venerable head with a 
rare, sweet smile on his face, I felt a wee lump in my 
throat, and my handkerchief was needed about the 
eyes for a minute. Pius X did not wish to be 
Pope, you remember, and when he left Venice, as 
Cardinal Patriarch of that city, he bought his return 
ticket to his dear Venetia. There are only five 
titles of Patriarch in the Roman Catholic Church, 
and there is only one such title in Italy. The 
others are at Jerusalem, Constantinople, Antioch 
and Corinth, in fact in each place where one 
of the twelve apostles founded a church. The 
title of Patriarch of Venice and St. Mark was 
transferred from a town in Asia Minor to Venice. 
Pius X is beloved by everybody, and I can easily un- 
derstand why, since I have seen him. He is so simple, 
so kindly in his appearance, and his main idea is to be 
kind to every one and to help to bring peace over 
the world. Indeed, he has already done a great 
deal toward bringing together the Vatican and the 
Quirinal, so that the Blacks (Papal followers) and 

[91] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the Whites (King's followers) no longer hate each 
other as formerly. — I was told that the Pope had 
advised all Romans to vote in the elections as all other 
Italians. " You must be good citizens as well as good 
Catholics," he has said. Directly following his 
election as Pope, he received congratulatory messages 
from nearly all the sovereigns of the world. As he 
was looking them over he said, " Ah yes, all these are 
gratifying, but the one I wished most to see is not 
here," meaning that from the King of Italy. From 
this remark all his court knew at once that Pius X 
intended to be more friendly with the Italian King 
than any Pope since the founding of United Italy. 

He insists that he will not be a prisoner in the 
Vatican, as his predecessors have been since Pius IX^ 
and I really believe it will not be long before he 
will ride about Rome as the Popes of old used 
to do. 

Professor Sgambati was telling me the other day, 
what a commotion it used to make when Pius 
IX took his drive through the streets of Rome* 
As he passed, every one was expected to kneel and 
uncover their heads, so that those who were waning 
in their loyalty to the Pope, used to run into the nu- 
merous little alleys or side streets to escape doing 
homage in the prescribed way. Certainly Pius 

[92] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

IX must have presented a most gorgeous appearance 
with numbers of his Guardie Nobile riding on gayly 
caparisoned horses in advance. In those days too, 
the cardinals wore their gorgeous red robes in 
pubHc, and numbers of them were nearly always in 
attendance on the Pope when he rode out. 

From Sgambati's description it must have been a 
most imposing spectacle, but Pio Nono loved pomp 
and splendor, while if Pio Decimo, who loves sim- 
plicity above all things, really leaves the Vatican, I 
dare say he will go out with but little more pomp 
than the Cardinals of the present day, whom one 
meets often in the Villa Borghese, quietly taking their 
afternoon walk with their footman walking at a re- 
spectful distance behind, and their elegant but quiet 
looking coupe or landau following, ready at any time 
when " His Eminence " is tired. One recognizes 
their rank from the small red silken cords about their 
hats, and the red tassels which hang over the edge. 

It has been said that Pius X is not as great a dip- 
lomat as Leo XIII, but from all one can learn, 
he has quite as much diplomacy as the late Pope, 
only he goes about accomplishing his ends in a rather 
different way. 

I do hope we may be presented to him privately, 
since now that we have seen him in all his glory I 

[93] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

should like to see him at close range and talk with 
him. 

The one idea of everybody in St. Peter's after the 
Pope had been carried out, was to get out also. St. 
Peter's is a very big place, as you know, but the crowd 
that day was big enough to fill it, and make the most 
awful jam that I ever had the misfortune to get into. 
We were pushed and hustled hither and yon, so 
that it was a good three-quarters of an hour before 
we really found our coachman. 

I had supposed I ought to dress very warmly as I 
was to stay so long in a stone church, but I was all 
wrong. St. Peter's has a climate of its own. It is 
warm in winter and cool in summer ; in fact, it is so 
vast that the temperature varies but little all the year 
round. I was " simply roasting " when I left the 
church, and came near catching a very bad cold from 
the sudden chill that I got when I came out into the 
cool, fresh afternoon air. 

Well, our stay ought to be delightful, which has 
started with the Papal blessing. I have already writ- 
ten to R. telling him that I want to be presented to 
the Pope privately, and I have no doubt he will ar- 
range for it in due time. 



[94] 



XI 

To E. F. D. B. 

A PRESENTATION TO HIS HOLINESS 

Rome, Italy, January lo, 1905 

My dear Mr. 

^ S I expected, R. arranged for our special 
LJL presentation to the Pope. One does not 
JL jL. have very much notice vs^hen these presen- 
tations are to take place, as His Holiness does not 
always announce just what he is going to do long be- 
forehand. However, our cards arrived in ample 
time, and read for " Signor F. Batcheller and his 
consort " ; the directions for the proper costume were 
all plainly indicated on them. I wore my black vel- 
vet with the long lace veil, which I had worn at the 
beatification, only this time I sent for a hair dresser 
to arrange the veil, as I wished, of course, to look 
my very best. F. B. wore his evening clothes, 
though the hour of presentation was three o'clock in 
the afternoon. We left the hotel some little time 
before, as we did not wish to be a moment late. 
I was told that I should wear a good many jewels, 

[95] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

but a jeweled pin to hold my veil in place, and my 
strings of pearls, I thought quite enough. 

We drove across the famous square of St. Peter's, 
passed under the porch at the left, and through a 
beautiful court. Here the Pope's soldiers, in steel 
blue coats with scarlet trimmings, bade us pass on, 
and we drove into the famous Cortile San Damaso, 
so called from the fountain erected here by Innocent 
X. It is the finest court of the Vatican, surrounded 
by the beautiful Logge of Bramante that we had read 
about, so we were very glad to see them. We 
stopped before a door at the left side of the court, 
where an officer in another sort of uniform, less gay, 
but equally mediaeval-looking, ushered us from our 
carriage to an elevator. As we left the elevator, we 
passed through the famous Gallery of the Geograph- 
ical Maps, built by Gregory XIII, and beautifully 
adorned with historical frescoes. It was formerly 
open on one side, but of late, it has been enclosed in 
glass. We had no time to examine these wonderful 
old maps, for, at the end of the corridor, a door was 
opened for us, and we were asked to pass through a 
large room where several of the Swiss Guard were 
stationed. The uniforms of this guard are so start- 
ling in their brilliancy of bright red and yellow, and 
the brass helmets and mediaeval spears so fearful 

[96] 



««*iM-X^5^-l '■••;?; im]^:'rpm^-i:(,:j^ ^^: ; ^(^ 



■j^ ^mi-mmw 



MRS. FRANCIS BATCHELLER 

AS PRESENTED TO HIS HOLINESS THE POPE 




COPYRIGHT, 1903, BY TRVPHOSA SATES BATCHELLtl^ 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

looking, that they inspired me with tremendous re- 
spect, if not actual awe. 

We had only a few moments to admire the beau- 
tiful paintings and frescoes in this room, for we were 
quickly shown into another, where a very tall, fine- 
looking man with gray hair, clad in a swallow-tail 
coat and a much " bepleated-bosomed " shirt, exam- 
ined our cards of entrance with great care, looking 
us over from head to foot to make sure that we were 
all in black and wore no gloves, which is forbidden 
in the presence of His Holiness. He politely indi- 
cated the place where we were to leave our wraps, 
and then a gorgeous individual in red brocade opened 
a door and asked us to enter. 

Our new escort wore knee breeches tied at the 
knee, and crimson leather slippers, while streamers of 
brocaded velvet hung from each shoulder, so that al- 
together he presented a most royal appearance. He 
may have been one of the twelve men who carried 
the Pope on the day of the beatification, at least he 
was dressed exactly as they were. He conducted 
us to a room hung with the most beautiful Gobelin 
tapestries, where three crimson-brocaded officials like 
himself were awaiting us. He asked us to be seated, 
and was very polite in answering the few questions 
which I asked him. As we waited, we had time to 

[97] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

examine this beautiful suite of rooms. The tapestries 
are truly wonderful, representing mythological 
scenes, and their colors are those soft shades which 
only age can give. 

We did not wait long before one of the officials 
told us that His Holiness was coming, and asked us 
to kneel. I had seen the sweet, kind face when His 
Holiness was carried in his golden chair through St. 
Peter's, and I was quite willing to kneel to so good 
a man, as all unite in calling him, but almost before 
I realized it, the Pope, one of the greatest men in 
the world, stood before me and was speaking to me. 

When one stops to consider all that he represents, 
all the power that he holds so undeniably throughout 
the world, one marvels at the sweet simplicity of the 
man himself, who is the embodiment of Roman 
Catholicism in all the countries of the earth. He 
was clothed in white broadcloth, wore scarlet slip- 
pers embroidered in gold, and on his head a small 
silken cap, also of scarlet. 

He extended his right hand for me to kiss his fa- 
mous ring, and as I did so, he asked, " Are you an 
American ? " " Yes, Your Holiness, and I come from 
Boston, where I have tried to help the Italian immi- 
grants who come to us,'' I said. He seemed much 
pleased, and I told him about the work that the Ital- 

[98] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ian Societies to which I belong in Boston had done 
toward helping and instructing the poor Itahans who 
have come to us. He raised his hand above my head, 
saying, " God bless you for this charity to our poor, 
and may they always merit it." I was told after- 
ward that Pius X never says " I bless you," as 
many Popes have previously done, but always asks 
the Deity to give His blessing. 

After speaking with F. B. and giving him his bless- 
ing, he turned to go, followed by his devoted secre- 
tary, but as he stood in the doorway, he gave us the 
Papal blessing again in Latin. He had been so sweet, 
so simple, so really great through it all, that I was 
reminded ofRuskin's words: "An infinitude of ten- 
derness is the chief gift and inheritance of all truly 
great men." 

We were politely ushered from the room. We 
felt very sober, yet much gratified at our experience. 
When we were descending the stairs, one of the ofii- 
cials came to me and asked me to go to the Secretary's 
office, at the same time directing me just where to 
go. I did not know quite what was to happen, but 
once there, I was told that, if I would leave my 
address, a photograph of His Holiness with the 
autograph and written blessing of Sua Santita 
(His Holiness) would be sent me. I did so, of 

[99] 

LOFC. 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

course, and I am very proud of the beautiful pic- 
ture, upon which His HoHness has inscribed his Pa- 
pal blessing and his famous autograph. 

One of my "Black" friends tells me that the Pope 
is a very fine pianist, and spends much time playing 
his favorite instrument, his two Venetian secretaries 
serving as an audience. A few days ago a famous 
trio of musicians, violin, viola and cello (I forget 
their names) were summoned to play before His Ho- 
liness at the Vatican. This was a great innovation 
on the usual order of things, but Pius X intends 
to have an order of his own ; anyhow, he is so much 
beloved, and the people have so much confidence in 
his goodness, that he can do exactly as he pleases, 
not as the cardinals please, an entirely different 
attitude from that of former Popes. It seems 
strange, when the Pope is so fond of music, 
that he has decided to restrict the music of the Ro- 
man Catholic churches throughout the world to the 
old seventh-century Gregorian chants, with their se- 
vere eight modes. He also makes the restriction 
that they shall be sung only by men, and this has 
been a fearful blow to many of the women singers 
everywhere, who have been able hitherto to earn 
a very comfortable living by singing in Roman 
Catholic churches, where they always were well paid. 

[loo] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

I am told that this order of restriction has met with 
fierce opposition, and that it is not being closely 
followed in many parts of the world ; I think in time 
this sentence against the women singers will be mit- 
igated, — I surely hope so, it has brought about so 
much suffering, and that is the last thing that good, 
kind Pius X has the intention of doing. 



[lOl] 



XII 

To E. F. D. B. 

Rome, January 15, 1905 
My dear M. : 

THIS morning I had a good sing, and then 
went out to walk in the gardens of the Villa 
Borghese, or Villa Umberto I, as it is now 
called. The park and gardens formerly belonged to 
the Cenci family, but after the execution of Beatrice 
and her brother by Pope Clement VIII, the property 
was confiscated by the church, and Paul V, the Bor- 
ghese Pope, gave it to his relatives. In the real estate 
panic a few years ago here in Rome, the Bor- 
ghese family lost much of their great fortune, and 
the government bought the villa and gardens which 
now form a public park. 

Numbers of Italian officers were trying English 
hunters on the race track that is now used as a sort of 
bridle path. Some of the horses took the jumps 
very prettily, but others were rather ugly. The 
Italian uniforms are very stunning, and the officers 
always look as if they had just stepped out of a band- 
box, though how it is possible, I don't see, for their 

[102] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

capes are often of the lightest cadet-blue cloth that 
soils very easily. Even their white gloves are always 
just so clean ; they certainly set the soldiers a fine 
example, for besides their fine uniforms they are 
nearly all very well " set up." 

We are looking forward to going to the hunts 
here, not to follow — put your dear, anxious mind at 
rest — but to look on. These meets are quite a 
feature here, and beside the gentlemen who ride, a 
great many of the officers enjoy hunting immensely, 
and I should think, with the Campagna for a setting, 
they might make a very pretty picture. 

Mrs. Morris came over for tea the other afternoon, 
and she too is anxious to go to one of these meets, so 
perhaps we shall arrange to go together. 

To-day F. B. and I went out for a drive ; I wanted 
to see the lovely Tortoise fountain again, Fontana 
delle Tartarughe, as it is called. So we drove around 
by it, and then on through Rome, out the Via Appia 
to the church of San Sebastiano, where we were 
shown in a side chapel what is said to be a footprint 
of Christ on stone. 

We drove on past the picturesque tomb of Cascilia 
Metella, wife of Caesar's legate in Gaul, that stands out 
so boldly in the Campagna. It was made a fortified 
stronghold by the powerful Caetani family in 1300, 

[103] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and it must have been a fine vantage-point for de- 
fence. All around are ruins that originally formed 
part of a palace and church. The aqueducts are par- 
ticularly picturesque on this drive, and the aqueduct 
of the old time Aqua Claudia is used to-day to carry 
what is now called the Acqua Felice to Rome. 

I am improving in my Italian, at least, I am work- 
ing constantly to do so, and a nice young Italian lady 
comes three afternoons a week and talks with me ; I 
write English into Italian, which is really the greatest 
help. Of course my teacher speaks English, and 
understands its construction, so that she can give me 
Italian idioms for our English idioms, and make any 
knotty point clear. I think what they say here is 
true, " La lingua Toscana in bocca Romanay (The 
Tuscan language in a Roman mouth),'' for the 
Romans speak delightfully. 

Well, dear, I must stop. Give my love to all the 
friends at home and for yourself, I say : 

" Se il mare fu inchiostro 
E il cielo un foglio 
Non basterebbe per dirti 
Tutto il ben che ti voglio.*' 

" If the sea were an inkwell 
And the heavens a page 
E'en then how I love thee 
I could not e 'en tell." 

[104] 



XIII 
To T. C. B. 

Rome, January 20, 1905 

My dear P. ; 

THIS has been a rather quiet day, though we 
are going out this evening. 
This morning F. B. and I went for a nice 
walk on the Pincio after I finished singing. The 
Villa Medici, which is situated just at the entrance 
of the park, is now used for the French Academy of 
Fine Arts here, and Carolus Durand has just been 
appointed the director by the French Government. 
This afternoon we have been for a nice drive. 
F. B. had never been to St. John's in Laterano, 
nor seen the Scala Santa, so we drove directly to the 
Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano. The church 
is one of the most interesting in Rome, was once 
connected with a palace presented by the Emperor 
Constantine to Pope Sylvester I, and was for some 
years the principal church in Rome. It has had all 
sorts of things happen to it ; an earthquake has de- 
stroyed it once, fire twice, and it came to its present 

[105] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

form in i 875. One of the five entrances, the Porta 
Santa, is walled up, and opened only in the Papal ju- 
bilee years. The principal fa9ade has a very grand 
portico from which the Popes used to pronounce 
a benediction on Ascension day, and there is another 
portico on the south side. 

After giving some pennies to a poor old man at 
the door, which I suppose was not at all the right 
thing to do, but he looked so miserable that my 
feelings got the better of my judgment, we went in- 
side. The church is supposed to contain several 
very holy relics, the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul, 
and a wooden table taken from the Catacombs, which 
is said to have been used by St. Peter as an altar. 
Near one of the pillars to the right, we found a statue 
of that wonderful old Pope, Boniface VIII, repre- 
sented between two cardinals proclaiming the first 
jubilee in 1300. Think of the money that poured 
into Rome that year ! I wonder how it was all 
used — in churches perhaps, there are three hundred 
and seventy-five in Rome alone. 

The chapel of the great Torlonia family is in this 
church, and is very richly decorated with marbles 
and much fine gilding. 

After walking about the church enjoying the mo- 
saics, marbles and paintings, we went to see the 

[106] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

cloisters that are noted for their beautiful inlaid col- 
umns. The monastery was founded in the sixth 
century, by Benedictine monks, who came here from 
Monte Cassino that we saw on the way from Naples. 
We had a look at the sculptures in the Palazzo 
del Laterano, now given the long name of Museum 
Gregorianum Lateranense, but the day was so fine 
that we could not make up our minds to stay all the 
afternoon indoors, besides, these places are fearfully 
cold, and we have to bundle up tremendously to go 
in at all, so we mean to come to this museum 
another day. But before continuing our drive, we 
walked over to the building, once a part of the Late- 
rano palace, that contains the Scala Santa, supposed 
to be the marble steps which our Lord, Jesus Christ, 
ascended. They were brought to Rome in 326 A. D., 
by the Empress Helena ; no one can go up except 
on their knees, and a prayer must be said on each 
step. There are other stairs arranged at one side for 
coming down. At the top of the steps is the chapel 
of Sancta Sanctorum, which is all that is left of the 
old Laterano palace, and was formerly the private 
chapel of the Popes. It contains a picture said to 
be painted by St. Luke. Several devout monks and 
nuns, as well as peasant women, were going up, stair 
by stair, on their knees, patiently telling their beads. 

[107] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

I suppose they were much happier for their prayer, 
whether or not the stairs are genuine. 

When we left here, we drove out through the 
Porta San Giovanni into the Campagna for a short 
distance. We saw the amphitheatre Castrense, 
which is the only structure of the kind in Rome, 
except the Colosseum. 

Here come some cards — dear Mrs. Warren and 
Countess T. — Au Revoir. Pardon abruptness. 



[io8] 



XIV 

To T. C. B. 

Rome, January 24, 1905 

My dearest P.: 

WE have just come in from a very pleasant 
reception given by Mrs. Norton this 
afternoon at her attractive villa in the Via 
Vicenza. 

Mr. Norton is, as you knov^, the son of Prof. 
Norton of Harvard University, and is at the head of 
the American School here in Rome. Recently, 
Harvard, Yale and Johns Hopkins have each given 
$100,000.00 to this school, and it is doing splendid 
vs^ork. We met numbers of Americans we knew. 
Mrs. Morton Dexter and her daughters are here for 
the winter with Miss Carow, a sister of Mrs. Roose- 
velt. It seemed so nice to see some Boston friends, 
and I was glad to know Miss Carow, who is, like 
her sister, a most charming person. She is a great 
friend of dear Mrs. Lodge, and has promised to lend 
me young Mr. Lodge's new book to read. I also 

[109] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

met Prof, and Mrs. Carter of Princeton, and there 
were numerous other friends. 

Mrs. Minton Warren, whose husband was formerly 
at the head of the school, went with us this afternoon, 
and made everything lovely for us, presenting us to 
numbers of her friends, who are legion in Rome, as 
everywhere. Before going to the reception, which 
was late, we took a drive in the grounds of the 
beautiful Villa Doria, where people in two-horse 
carriages are allowed to drive on Tuesday and 
Friday afternoons. 

Throughout the drive around these fairy grounds, 
one beautiful view after another meets the eye ; now 
a herd of wild deer, some clear white, others brown, 
in the small ravine at one end of the garden ; now, 
an imposing view of St. Peter's and the Vatican, 
with Monte Mario in the distance ; and, at a turn 
of the road, we come upon a pretty pond, where 
graceful swans are gliding up and down. Here and 
there are wonderful old marbles taken from ancient 
sarcophagi ; in a green field to one side is an ancient 
stone altar, and at another turn we have a lovely 
view of the Alban Mountains. It is like an en- 
chanted castle, and quite the most beautiful of the 
famous Italian villas and gardens. 

I am looking forward to meeting the Princess 

[iioj 




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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Doria, who is a great friend of the Princess Venosa 
and a charming Englishwoman, so every one says, 
a sister of the Duke of Newcastle. 

To-morrow we are going to an afternoon recep- 
tion at our Embassy. The Meyers have an apart- 
ment in the Brancaccio palace that is very well 
adapted for an Embassy. They like Rome very 
much, and give a great many balls and dinners. I 
hope we are in time for the balls, for F. B. and I 
enjoy dancing so much, and I work so constantly at 
my music that I think it is eminently good for me 
to be frivolous at times. 

By the way, the American School of Painting and 
Sculpture has bought the lovely Villa Mirafiori for 
its permanent establishment here. Isn't that fine! 
I believe that the generosity of Mr. Walters of 
Baltimore, who has done so much for art, as well as 
that of Mr. Morgan and some of the Vanderbilts, has 
made this possible, and all the Americans are re- 
joicing. 



[Ill] 



XV 
To E. F. D. B. 

Rome, January 28, 1905 
My dear M.: 

WE begin to feel quite at home in our snug 
apartment at this nice hotel. The rooms 
are really very pretty, having been fitted 
up by an American lady, who spent several winters 
in them, a year or two ago. F. B. comes in every 
morning when I am singing with Bustini or 
Sgambati to hear some of the songs, and brings me 
the results of his morning walk. He has already 
mastered sufficient Italian to buy flowers from the 
pretty girls in the Piazza, and my rooms are a perfect 
bower every day. In the parlor there is a long pier 
glass with a place arranged at the bottom for ferns 
or plants, and there are also shelves on a part of 
the frame where vases of flowers are most effective. 
The first morning that F. B. bought his flowers, 
he waited outside our door until I had finished sing- 
ing a song of Bustini's, which Bustini himself was 
going over with me. Mrs. M. and some friends had 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

asked to come over to hear me sing, so that when I 
finished, and they applauded, F. B. opened the door 
and filled my arms with flowers. We all laughed, 
and Bustini exclaimed " The real American hus- 
band ! " Unfortunately, the poor flowers had to be 
soon banished, as they were all of overpowering frag- 
rance, and I never can have that sort about when I am 
singing. However, there are numerous others that are 
quite as beautiful, and as I write, I can count bunches 
of jonquilles, vases of stately callas, graceful mimosa 
and many others too numerous to mention. Italy is 
surely a land of sunshine and flowers. Not a drop 
of rain have we seen since we arrived. One beautiful 
day follows another, and we do so enjoy our long 
walk every morning in the gardens of the Villa Bor- 
ghese. The air is cold, but the trees and lawns are 
as green as in summer. 

I find that it is best not to go down into the 
Piazza until ten o'clock or half-past, as it is quite 
damp in the early morning, and the moist air is apt 
to make one hoarse. I also find that kind Mrs. 
Howe's precautions as to health were most wise and 
correct. The thermometer conveys nothing to me, 
because it rarely registers freezing, although Bernini's 
Tritone fountain in our Piazza did freeze solid one 
morning — the first time in years our landlord assured 

["3] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

us. Yet I invariably need the thickest winter clothes 
that I possess. I do not walk in furs, of course, but 
always have a fur cape over my arm, so that if I do 
leave the park, and go from the sun into the shade 
down any of the narrow streets, I can immediately be 
warm enough. 

I should think all the old inhabitants of Italy 
would have worshipped the sun, for you seem to be 
perfectly safe so long as you are in the sunshine, but 
the moment you leave it, you seem in danger of 
catching cold, fevers and other unpleasant things. 
One would not believe it possible that two sides of the 
street could have such different temperatures. You 
fancy yourself in a balmy, beautiful climate on the 
one side, and in the coldest place you have ever 
known, when you cross over to the other. I no 
more think of going out without an extra wrap, than 
I would think of going out without my hat, and I 
almost invariably take a raw egg or a glass of milk 
before my morning walk, as it is very bad to make 
any exertions in this climate on an empty stomach. 

After luncheon, as all the people here seem to think 
it is the proper thing to do, I take a siesta. A lady 
told me yesterday that it was impossible for a for- 
eigner to do as much in Rome as in many other 
places. But as there is more to see here than in any 

["4] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

other place in the world, and many people come here 
to stay but a short time, they are anxious to see as 
much as possible ; so they run great risks, get very 
much over-tired, expose themselves in ways which 
even the natives would never dream of doing, eat any- 
thing that comes on the table d'hote, get very ill and 
announce to the world that Rome is unhealthy. As 
a matter of fact, figures show that Rome is the second 
healthiest city in Europe, London coming first. A 
charming Italian woman once said to me, " So many 
people say that our Rome is unhealthy, but I think 
all climates have their necessary rules, and when the 
climate of Rome is understood, and one lives as one 
should, I believe there is no healthier place than this," 
and she is right. 

In paying our visits in the afternoon, we almost 
invariably take a closed carriage if we know we are to 
be out after four o'clock, or whenever the sunset hour 
occurs. It simply does not do to be out at sunset in 
Italy. The sun is so powerful that when its heat is 
withdrawn, the atmospheric change is tremendous, 
and the dew is very heavy, so we make it a point 
to be either in a closed carriage or indoors at that 
time. I tried staying out once or twice, but caught 
cold each time, so I know better now. There is a 
saying, " A cold is the root of all evils in Rome," 

["5] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and I believe it. Many of the natives, however, do 
not mind being out at sunset at all, and the concerts 
on the Pincio given by different regimental bands, 
usually begin about four o'clock, but as I have to 
make music myself, it is more important for me to 
keep my instrument in condition than to listen to 
others, so we are waiting until later in the season to 
enjoy this really excellent band music. People drive 
after three o'clock ; first on the Pincio, and later in 
the Corso. It is very amusing of a beautiful afternoon 
to drive up the Corso about six o'clock, and see all 
fashionable Rome moving slowly up and down, every- 
one nodding and smiling pleasantly to their friends 
as they pass. The Corso is the *' Rotten Row " of 
Rome. The Italians have beautiful horses and turn- 
outs, and look very attractive in their jewels and furs. 
Yesterday the King passed by driving a fine pair 
in a handsome " spider." One of his gentlemen-in- 
waiting was with him, and his four bicycle out- 
riders rode in front of and beside the carriage. These 
bicyclists always attend His Majesty whenever he 
drives out. The King bowed pleasantly right and 
left, but as it is a very usual thing for him to drive in 
this way, no particular demonstration was made, 
though the glances were most friendly, for everyone 
knows that the King is universally beloved. 

[ii6] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

You will be relieved, I know, when I tell you 
that our rooms are well warmed. In our bedroom 
we have a large steam radiator, at least it is large for 
over here. I am afraid, on thinking of your idea 
of radiators, perhaps it might seem rather diminu- 
tive to you, but besides, there is a large, cheerful 
fireplace, that Buon Giorno (good morning) takes 
care of faithfully, though he insists that our rooms 
are too warm for health. F. B. has christened 
him Buon Giorno because he always says this "on 
sight." Poor Buon Giorno ! He comes into Rome 
in winter to work, leaving his family in a little 
town three hours distance by the railway, and six 
months often pass when he cannot hope to see his 
wife and children. He is an honest, cheerful man ; 
in fact all the Italians seem to be honest, and in 
spite of everything, cheerful. Scarcely anyone in 
the hotel locks his door. You remember when you 
left your silk bag in Turin, the proprietor of the 
hotel sent it on to you without so much as touch- 
ing a thing in it. 

F. B. found some grape-nuts in an English- 
American grocery on the Piazza, and he was surprised 
to find he could get many American groceries here. 
I think Mr. Sebasti, the banker, told him where to 
go, as he tells all travellers in want of information 

["7] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

just what to do and where to go for everything. His 
bank, where many of the foreigners draw their money, 
is also on the Piazza di Spagna, so while people are 
waiting for their bank notes, they learn what to do and 
how to do it from the banker. Signor Sebasti has lived 
in Rome all his life, although he has been in America, 
and is thoroughly used to Americans and their ways. 

One of the beautiful drives that we often take in 
the early afternoon is up to the Gianicolo Hill. 
We have a magnificent view from the large square 
where the statue of Garibaldi is placed ; Gallori, a 
friend of R.'s, was the sculptor — and it really is a 
wonderful piece of work, so cleverly placed, too, for 
the great man seems to have one eye on his beloved 
Rome and the other on the Vatican. From this hill 
we have a very good view of the Vatican Gardens, 
and as we go down the other side of the hill, we 
pass the celebrated Mme. Helbig's Villa Lante^ 
where one of the Pope's secretaries lived several 
hundred years ago ; it is now the only villa on the 
Gianicolo. 

We went to call upon the great lady the other 
day with the daughter of Mrs. Warren, who is stay- 
ing for a short time in Rome. Mme. Helbig is 
difficult to describe in a few words. She is an unu- 
sually talented, delightful woman, who does an im- 

["8] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

mense amount of good, and who endears herself to 
every one who knows her. Before her marriage she 
was a Russian Princess, but she gave up all her titles 
to marry the man of her choice, who is a distin- 
guished professor in the University of Rome. She 
cares little for pomp and show, and her life is mainly 
devoted to works of charity. I believe she entirely 
supports a children's hospital, and devotes much of 
her time to the sick children. She herself, is a great 
sufferer from neuralgia, but one never hears her com- 
plain. She is always bright, cheerful and witty, and 
when she sits at the piano, you realize that she is a 
fine artist as well as a philanthropist. Many of the 
great composers have been her friends, Wagner and 
Liszt especially, and I certainly hope I shall have the 
good fortune to hear her play often while we are 
here. She greeted me charmingly, introduced me to 
her distinguished son, who, like his father, is a profes- 
sor in the University, and asked me to sing to her. As 
she had all Mozart's operas at her hand in her fine 
musical library, I consented. She played the accom- 
paniment to the aria from the '^Nozze di Figaro '' 
delightfully, and I thoroughly enjoyed singing in her 
splendid, big, high room. My voice seemed to please 
her very much, and she has already nick-named me 
her *^ Paragon." 

[119] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Her son is one of the handsomest men I remember 
to have seen, very tall, extremely well built, v^^ith 
a brilliant complexion and keen " Welsung " blue 
eyes. He told me that he avoided all civilized 
capitals, and chooses for his particular stamping 
grounds, Nova Zembla, Southern and Central Africa. 
He is extremely interesting to talk to, but cares little 
or nothing about society, though his position neces- 
sitates his going about more or less. He is perfectly 
sv^eet and devoted to his mother, so you would admire 
him right away. He has recently made some 
wonderful scientific inventions, which everyone says 
will make him world-wide famous. The other 
morning he asked us to come and see the govern- 
ment balloon ascension. He was to be the pilot, and 
kindly said he would explain everything to us. We 
were delighted to go, and it was very interesting to 
see how skilfully and scientifically the great balloon 
was handled, how easily it was made fast to the basket, 
and how accurately every detail was attended to. I 
was especially interested in the arrangements for 
sending messages by carrier-pigeons, which are car- 
ried aloft in little baskets at the side of the main 
car. The smallest bits of the thinnest paper are care- 
fully placed between slides of aluminium. On these 
tiny sheets, with the aid of a small fairy pen. Prof. 

[120] 



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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Helbig writes a message to his anxious mother, the 
moment he is on terra jirma once more. The wee 
letter is rolled closely, and tied to the tail feathers of 
the pigeon that never rests until its message is de- 
livered. As the great balloon, that had seemed so 
huge near to, silently and softly floated up, up, up 
into the blue sky, one was almost hypnotized by the 
graceful sailing motion. I want very much to 
make an ascension, and Signor Filippi, who is 
President of the Balloon Society, has offered to have 
a special ascension for us if we will go. Prof. Helbig 
promises to be the pilot, and I am most anxious to 
try it, but F. B. won't hear of it. 

Mme. Helbig has asked us to stop in whenever 
we drive up this way, and as we enjoy seeing her so 
much, we shall surely go often. Everyone admires 
her immensely, and I hope to be able to live up to 
the new nick-name. 

We have received our invitations from Her Ma- 
jesty Queen Elena to be present at a formal recep- 
tion which she is to give at the Quirinal Palace, so of 
course, we are eagerly anticipating Feb. 15th. 

I simply must not write more to-night, but I hope 
to have great good things to tell you in a few days. 



[121] 



XVI 

To E. F. D. B. 

Rome, January 31, 1905 

My dear M. : 

YESTERDAY was very cold and windy, and 
we gave up all thoughts of going out to 
the Gardens of the Knights of Malta ; but 
in the afternoon Mrs. Warren came in, and wanted 
us to go with her out to Elihu Vedder's studio. F. B., 
who never refuses to rise to the bait of pictures, as- 
sured me I should not take cold, if I went in a closed 
carriage. For the first time in five years, there is 
not a flower in the Piazza di Spagna ; the Romans 
are perishing with the cold, and declare that the 
weather is most unusual. As we drove past the 
Spanish steps to-day, everything seemed so bare, few 
people were in the streets, and the usual air of a 
" freeze-up " was everywhere. The Vedders live in 
Rome on the Via Capo le Case, but the studio is 
quite a distance out on the Via Flaminia, and is 
built over a barn. The coachman was very stupid 
about finding the place ; I suppose he could not 

[122] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

imagine where we were trying to go, but Mrs. W. 
patiently insisted on his stopping at the right gate- 
way, and then she piloted us in and around an old 
garden (the shrubs are still green in spite of the 
cold), up a flight of steps, where we tugged at a stray 
wire outside the door. Some way, somehow, the wire 
seemed to have something on the other end, because, 
although we heard nothing, Mrs. Vedder soon opened 
the door and welcomed us. Once inside, one quite 
forgot the straggling garden and stable entrance. 

You know I have always admired Mr. Vedder's 
wonderful illustrations of the Rubaiyat of Omar 
Khayyam, and the work that he did for the Congres- 
sional Library in Washington, so of course I was 
very much interested in seeing his studies all about 
the studio. The picture of the Pleiades, to me, is 
one of the most attractive things Vedder has ever done. 
The figures have so much rhythm and motion, and 
I told Mr. Vedder that it reminded me of the ceiling 
decoration of the Opera Comique in Paris, where 
the notes of the musical clef are represented as bells, 
each in the hand of a young dancing girl. So many 
of Vedder's works have such an Oriental touch, that 
I am sure he would illustrate Kipling beautifully. 
When I particularly admired one Oriental figure, he 
laughingly told me that he had never been in the 

[123] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Orient, though he owned his style was rather 
Oriental. He gets beautiful effects in black and 
white, and I have arranged to carry off one of these 
gems. 

After we had seen all the pictures, and realized 
how many things there are that we want and cannot 
have, Mrs. Vedder made us all quite happy again with 
a most excellent cup of tea and cakes. She said this 
was Salem Day for the Studio — it was odd, the An- 
drews, Rantouls, and other Salem people were there, 
and Mrs. Warren, of course, represented the Ma- 
chado family. 

Miss Vedder is following in her father's artistic 
footsteps, and has done some very creditable tapestry 
painting. The drive into town was rather cold and 
long ; you can have no idea of how cold it is here 
when the sun goes down, but we were so well 
wrapped up, that I think we all avoided colds. 

Mrs. Gouverneur Morris came over to dinner and 
afterwards we had a little " bridge '' — Mr. A. making 
a pleasant fourth. Mrs. M. is such a splendid player 
that she and F. B. quite walked off with the tally. 
When we get home I hope you will meet Mrs. M., 
for I am sure you would like each other. She is an 
altogether charming woman, very fond of " bridge " 
(which will appeal to you), thinks your tallies are 

[124] . 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

fine, and won her way to my heart directly by 
admiring your photograph. 

R. is coming to dine to-morrow night, and wrote 
me he had all sorts of delightful plans for us in the 
near future. 



[125] 



XVII 

To C. R. 

Rome, Italy, February 9, 1905 

My dear Caira : 

RCAME in the other evening and carried 
us off to some private theatricals given 
• for the benefit of the Ambulatorio della 
Societa Soccorso e Lavoro, in one of the small halls 
generally used for a dancing school, and named after 
the dancing master Pichetti (I thought of Pappanti). 
When we first reached the hall we found we were 
quite early, and I was so thankful that I had re- 
belled at leaving my fur cape in the cloak room, as 
the thermometer, I am sure, did not register above 
fifty. A few people were before us, and they too, 
clung closely to their furs. 

Mrs. Wurtz, a sister of Mr. Tower, our Ambas- 
sador at Berlin, was one of the first people pointed 
out to us. She was wearing a beautiful ermine cape, 
and later in the evening when the hall became some- 
what warmer, and she threw back her wrap, I had 
a chance to see some of her famous jewels. As you 

[126] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

may imagine, it was very interesting to us to watch 
the people coming in, for the hall is small and the 
tickets had been sold only to people very well 
known ; therefore the little audience of about three 
or four hundred, comprised the best of Roman so- 
ciety. The first play was Goldoni's "GF Innamo- 
rati," and the principal role was taken by the lovely 
Princess Teano, a daughter-in-law of the Duchess of 
Sermoneta. The young Princess was animation itself 
in the role of the jealous and affectionate fiancee. I 
have read many of Goldoni's plays, when I was in 
Radcliffe College, so I was much interested to see 
how the cultivated Italians would interpret his roles. 
The play was charmingly costumed, had been ex- 
tremely well rehearsed, and went off with quite a 
professional dash. The Marchese Guglielmi, Prince 
Altieri and the Marchese G. Cappelli, all had a 
struggle for the hand of the heroine, and as the players 
and the audience knew one another so well, the scenes 
were very amusing. 

This play was followed by one act of Edmond 
Rostand's " Les Romanesques." The Princess of 
Paterno made a pretty, graceful Sylvette, and her 
French was as smooth and Parisian as one would hear 
in a French theatre. By far the most distinguished- 
looking man in the audience was His Excellency 

[127] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Signor Tittoni, the Minister of Foreign Affairs. I 
think I wrote you about going to call on Donna 
Bice Tittoni, his wife, and about her charming re- 
ception of us ; I am hoping soon to have the pleasure 
of meeting His Excellency. 

R. presented me to Count Bruschi, one of the 
Gentlemen-in-Waiting on Her Majesty Queen 
Elena, and pointed out a great many other people 
whose names I am struggling to recall. I remember 
the Marchesa Casati, a striking-looking woman, 
wearing a large white camellia in her elaborately 
dressed brown hair, the young Princess Ruspoli, a 
Roman beauty, sat near me, wearing a pretty frock 
of light blue and violet, and lots of other people 
that I shall write you about later. 

There was a scramble for the carriages afterward, 
but in some magical way, R. piloted us to ours at 
once, and we had to thank him for a very pleasant 
evening. His mother is such a sweet woman. I 
hope some time you may meet her. 



[128] 



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XVIII 
To E. F. D. B. 

A DAY WITH ST. PAUL 

Rome, Italy, February ii, 1905 

My dear Mother : 

MRS. Mozley is indefatigable about our 
sight-seeing, and yesterday insisted on our 
going with Miss B. and herself for "A 
Day with St. Paul," as she expressed it. We really 
had a delightful time, and perhaps you would like to 
have me tell you something of what we have seen. 
The conditions for sight-seeing were perfect, — 
cool weather, glorious sunshine, bunches of lovely 
big violets all around, from F. B., an exceedingly 
comfortable carriage, a scholar as a guide, and last, 
but not least, plenty of warm wraps. 

We started out first to see the house where St. 
Paul lived in Rome, which is in the " Ghetto." You 
know the place where the Jews live is called 
" Ghetto," from a Hebrew word meaning " dis- 
persed," and here in Rome the " Ghetto " was en- 
closed by Pope Paul IV in 1556. All the men 

[129] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

were compelled to wear yellow hats, and the women 
yellow veils, and they were not allowed to be out 
after sunset or before sunrise, while gates were put 
across the streets that enclosed this section of the 
city. Pio Nono did away with the gates, but it was 
not until 1870, when the victorious Italian army 
under Cadorna took possession of Rome, that the Jews 
obtained the full liberties of citizenship. They first 
settled here in the time of Pompey the Great, and 
the lower part of the houses in the " Ghetto " are 
mostly of Roman construction, pre§enting a very 
singular, half-ruined appearance. About four thou- 
sand Jews live in this little place, packed in like 
sardines, but in spite of this, I am told there is no 
fever here. 

There is nothing to remind one of St. Paul in the 
house that is pointed out as his, and to the ordinary 
passer-by, it looks very much like the other houses 
in the " Ghetto," so we drove on to the Porta San 
Paolo, and thence to the celebrated church of San 
Paolo Fuori le Mura. On the road we passed a 
small chapel, which is supposed to mark the spot 
where St. Paul and St. Peter took leave of each other 
on their last journey. A quaint bas-relief over the 
door represents their parting, and the inscription 
below says : In this place SS. Peter and Paul sepa- 

[130] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

rated on their way to martyrdom. And Paul said 
to Peter " Peace be with thee, Foundation of the 
Church, Shepherd of the Flock of Christ/' And 
Peter said to Paul, " Go in peace, preacher of good 
tidings, and guide of the salvation of the just." 

St. Peter was soon after imprisoned in Rome by 
Nero, in a strange stone prison that we went to see 
the other day. It is called Career Mamertinus, and 
is one of the most ancient structures in Rome. It is 
a most extraordinary place, consisting of two rooms, 
one above the other, but it is believed that formerly, 
there were others similar. The lower chamber, with 
a vaulted stone roof, was originally accessible only 
through a hole in the ceiling, and it was through 
this hole that poor St, Peter was supposed to have 
been lowered from the upper room, and it was here, 
so the legend goes, that St. Peter baptized his jailers 
(you remember the story) with water from a spring 
which he caused to flow miraculously through his 
dungeon. 

Jugurtha, that fierce and unscrupulous Numidian, 
Vercingetorix, the bitter enemy of Caesar, and others 
of Rome's conquered enemies, were imprisoned in 
this same dungeon. I shall tell you all about the 
place where poor St. Paul was beheaded presently. 
The drive out to the Cathedral built in St. PauFs 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

honor is most lovely, and we reached the church 
altogether too soon. The Roman Campagna is 
simply beautiful, and the long lines of the old ruined 
aqueducts, broken here and there, give such a pic- 
turesque touch to the landscape. Occasionally we 
could see the ruins of some old Roman watchtower, 
and away in the distance were the majestic snow- 
capped mountains, with the little hill towns nestling 
at their base. 

On the road we met and passed many of the wine 
carts coming and going to these same little towns, 
Castelli Romani, they are called; the term is given 
to them all, as the district from which the wine is 
chiefly made in this part of the country. There 
are all sorts of funny little out-of-door restaurants 
along the road, with signs over them painted in 
bright colors that read, Fini dei Castelli (Wines 
from the Castelli), and before the more favored 
ones, there were generally three or four of these odd- 
looking wine carts. The way is long and the load is 
heavy, so that the men are often on the road all 
night coming to Rome, and all day returning to their 
home. And since their life must be thus spent upon 
the highway, they make their carts as comfortable 
as possible. As you can see from the picture I am 
sending you, there is a large sort of canopy built at 

[132] 



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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

one side of the driver's seat, and under the canopy- 
are arranged numbers of bells. The frame work is 
built of wood, painted in bright colors, and elaborately 
but crudely ornamented with gay designs. Goat skins 
or sheep skins, untanned, make a soft, warm lining 
and a sure protection from the bitter Tramontanay 
which comes sweeping over the mountains. From 
the tinkling of the bells, each man is able to keep 
his own side of the road, and he may sleep in peace 
after a hard day's work in Rome, for his little lu- 
petto will take care that no one steals any wine from 
the load. I have been half tempted to bring home 
with me one of these dogs. They are intelligent, 
pretty, never attach themselves to any one but their 
owner, and are most ferocious little creatures as 
watchdogs. However, I have concluded that the 
one I intended to take, might not agree with dear 
" Tip," so you need have no anxiety on this score. 

When we drove up to the side door of the church, 
(there is no approach, as yet, to the front of the 
building, for hundreds of years pass here as nothing 
in construction), numerous venders of small Roman 
mosaics, cameos and postal cards surrounded our 
carriage. We tried to be stern and hurry into the 
church, but the men were very persistent, and some 
of the things were rather pretty, so we bought a few, 

[133] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and like magic the men disappeared, only to waylay 
another party who were just driving up. The first 
impression on entering the church, is that of sym- 
metry and elegance. Prudentius, who saw in its 
glory, the original basilica that was burned, describes 
it thus, and it is equally applicable to the present 
edifice : — 

" Imperial splendour all the roof adorns ; 
Whose vaults a monarch built to God, and graced 
With golden pomp the vast circumference. 
With gold the beams he covered, that within 
The light might emulate the beams of morn. 
Beneath the gHttering ceihng pillars stood 
Of Parian stone, in four-fold ranks disposed ; 
Each curving arch with glass of various dye 
Was decked ; so shines with flowers the painted mead 
In spring's prolific day." 

It was originally built to mark the place where, 
according to tradition, the body of St. Paul was 
buried by a pious woman named Lucina, who owned 
the land, and in the Confessio the sarcophagus of St. 
Paul was placed. I believe the first little church 
was founded in 388 A. D. and was added to, greatly 
changed and ornamented by many of the Popes, Leo 
VIII in particular. In 1823, the church, which was 
then the finest and the most interesting in Rome, 
was entirely destroyed by fire, with the exception of 

[134] 



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inai basiihca that was burned, dejicribes 

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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the choir. The rebuilding was begun immediately, 
but the church was consecrated only in 1854, by 
Pius IX on the occasion of the meeting of the 
Council. The nave is magnificent with its rows of 
eighty great columns of granite, brought from the 
Simplon, and above these columns, on the inner 
aisle, is a long series of portrait medallions of all the 
Popes in mosaic, from St, Peter and St. Linus down 
to Pius X. The workmanship is most beautiful, and 
the likenesses, judging from Pius IX and Leo XII I, 
are excellent. 

But many of the mosaics are in the symbolical 
style of the early Christians, and according to my 
way of thinking, not altogether beautiful. The four 
columns of the high altar are of exquisite oriental 
alabaster, and were presented to the church by Me- 
hemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, and the malachite 
pedestals were given by the Emperor Nicholas I of 
Russia. The Confessio (or shrine) is beautifully deco- 
rated with red and green Peloponnesian marbles that 
were known and much used by the ancients. 

By a little persuasion, our guide was enabled to 
show us the famous bronze door of the ancient 
basilica, which was executed at Constantinople in 
1070 by Staurakios. It is really magnificent, inlaid 
in silver with scenes taken from the Bible, and 

[135] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

though it is injured a good deal, it is very interesting 
nevertheless. 

The cloisters adjoining the church are also beau- 
tiful, and have been declared by the government to be 
a National Monument, though the monastery, which 
formerly belonged to the Benedictine Order, has 
been secularized. Of course we could not see nearly 
everything in one visit, so, as we had planned to 
drive on to the Abbadia delle Tre Fontane (Abbey 
of the Three Fountains) , the place where St. Paul is 
supposed to have been beheaded, we had to tear our- 
selves away. For a great many years this place 
was deserted, because this section of the country 
is very malarious ; but when the French Trappists 
were driven from France, the land was made over to 
them, and here they have established a monastery. 
The sanitary condition of the place has been much 
improved by the extensive planting of the fast-grow- 
ing eucalyptus trees, and the thrifty monks have been 
most successful in selling their Eucalyptus Cordial, 
which is supposed to be very beneficial in the case 
of colds. 

As we entered the grounds of the monastery, one 
of the monks came forward and politely offered to 
show us about. He was rather old, and said that just 
because he was no longer young, he was allowed to 

[136] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

show visitors about. He was delighted when I 
talked to him in French, and was very kind in 
answering all my various questions about the place 
and his Order, which is one of the most austere of 
the Roman Catholic Church. He told us that 
monks who enter this Order bind themselves by vows 
of absolute silence amongst themselves. Many hours 
in the day are given to religious exercises, and several 
hours to hard labor. Vegetables and water form 
their only diet, while all meat and wine are forbid- 
den. This especial severity was introduced into the 
Order in 1664 by Armand Jean le Bouthillier de 
Ranee, who was consecrated Abbot of La Trappe, 
in France, where an Abbey of the Cistercian Order 
was established. He had some difficulty in persuad- 
ing the monks to adopt his rules, because they had 
become very disorderly and irreligious at the time of 
his consecration, but in the end he prevailed, though 
the Order was suppressed in France during the 
French Revolution, and in Germany in 1874. Mrs. 
M. surprised me by saying that there is more than 
one colony of Trappists in America. The monk 
showed us the church of San Paolo alle Tre Fontane, 
that stands on the spot where St. Paul is said to have 
been beheaded. After the execution, the head was 
seen to make three leaps, and according to tradition, 

[137] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

at each spot where the head touched the ground, a 
spring burst forth. A sort of marble basin has been 
built about each spring, and on the pavement below 
is sculptured a head intended to resemble St. Paul. 
At the right of the first spring is a column of white 
marble to which St. Paul was bound at the time of 
his decapitation. Naturally these springs are re- 
garded as holy, though I believe no special curative 
properties are claimed for them. 

The approach to this church is lined by majestic 
eucalyptus trees, and as we returned to go over the 
other two churches here, — Santi Vincenzo ed Anas- 
tasio and Santa Maria Scala Cceli — the monk, find- 
ing that F. B. talked French, drew him aside, under 
pretense of showing him the beautiful peacock, and 
asked him if he had any cigarettes. "The doctor 
said they would be good for me," the poor monk 
faltered, by way of apology, and I am happy to say 
that F. B. took pity on him, and gave him all that 
he had. Fancy living in this desolate place year in 
and year out and never speaking to a soul! What 
an awful existence ! I should think if they got as far 
as believing that the Lord was pleased with all these 
sacrifices, they might get to the point of thinking 
that suicide might be acceptable, and certainly they 
must feel it would be much easier than this long 

[138] 



GLIMP.SES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

drawn-out life of misery and deprivation. The 
other churches are not particularly interesting, ex- 
cept that one of them has quite a wonderful echo, 
which th« monk took pains to show us with his fine 
baritone voice, of which he evidently was very proud. 

Just before leaving, we were taken to the distil- 
ling room, and asked to buy a glass of the eucalyptus 
liqueur. It is extremely palatable, and the Italian 
physicians often prescribe it in cases of influenza or 
grippe. The poor monk who had seemed so pleased 
when we arrived, seemed equally disheartened at our 
departure, and did his best to make us promise to 
return in a few days. I dare say we shall drive out 
that way again, and if we do, I have promised to 
take him some of the kodaks that I took of the place, 
as well as of him. 

According to our landlady, who appeared this 
morning in a state of bustle and hustle, carrying clean 
lace curtains and fresh tidies for the chairs, ^*the 
great heat is coming." As we have been closely 
wrapped in fur-lined garments all day, we are not 
exactly prepared to accept her statement, but in any 
case, we are tremendously spruced up, and our rooms 
look very pretty, with all the fresh clean things 
about. The spring flowers are here, it is true, and 
the house-keeper is a most intelligent German 

[139] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

woman, who has lived in Rome many years, so when 
she replied to my doubting remark of the approach- 
ing heat, " Gnddige^ es ist wahr (Excellency, it is 
true)," I suppose she really knew. I sincerely hope 
she is right, for I want to keep her snapping black 
eyes in my favor, and she had the fire-place quite 
cleared out and "gray washed" this morning, so I shall 
struggle to believe that I do not need another fire. 
We are looking forward to the Balde Tetes, which 
is to come off in a few days. Countess Bruschi, a 
lovely Lady-in- Waiting to H. M. Queen Elena, 
was kind enough to procure us tickets, and I shall 
write you all about it when it is over. 



[140] 



XIX 

To T. C. B. 

Rome, Italy, February 12, 1905 
My dear Papa : 

WE have just come in from a lovely walk in 
the Villa Umberto I. The park is so 
near-by, and so sunny, that it makes an 
ideal place for my morning walks. 

In the mail that I found waiting for me when I 
came in, was a delightful letter from Jules Huret of 
the Figaro, and another from Georges Boyer, Secre- 
tary General of the National Academy of Music, of 
France ; both letters contained alluring invitations 
for me to sing as soon as I get to Paris, and if I ever 
make up my mind to leave this delightful place, I 
know we shall have all sorts of good times in dear 
"Paree." You surely have read Mr. Huret's book 
on America — I think he has "sized us up" about as 
correctly as any of the foreigners who come to us. 
He modestly says that his book is only impressions, 
since he was in America less than a year, but the 
impressions are a good deal more to the point than 

[141] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

those of some of the other men who go over to 
America, stay two months, and claim to know it all. 
Mr. Boyer is fearfully busy these days receiving Sov- 
ereigns — they all seem to have decided to visit 
Paris — and in his position as Secretary of the Opera, 
naturally, he meets them all. It is nice that a man 
of his charm should have his position — he always 
has such a graceful way of doing things for everyone. 

Donna Bice Tittoni came in for a few minutes 
this afternoon for tea. She has such a sweet per- 
sonality. 

We are lunching at the Embassy to-morrow, but 
I must not stop for any more now, as we are going 
out. 



[142] 



XX 

To E. F. D. B. 

HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELENA 

Rome, Italy, February 15, 1905 
My dear M,: 

THIS surely has been a red-letter day, a 
Wednesday, as all my red-letter days seem 
to be. I wrote you that our invitations 
had come from Her Majesty, but I think I did 
not tell you just how they came. They were sepa- 
rate invitations, one for Mrs. Francis Batcheller, and 
signed by the present Lady-in- Waiting, the Duchess 
of Ascoli (down in the lower left-hand corner, there 
was a little stamp which read, " visiting dress with 
hat " ) ; F. B.'s invitation was signed by the Gentle- 
man-in- Waiting, the Duke of Ascoli (the stamp in 
the corner read, " morning dress, frock coat"). Time 
here is reckoned from the first to the twenty-fourth 
hour, so the time set was 17:45 (5:45 p. ni. being 
put in parentheses), and we drove up to the door of 
the inner court of the Quirinal Palace ten minutes 
ahead of our appointment. 

[143] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

A gorgeous-looking individual in a red coat and 
much gold lace, handed me out of the carriage, and 
numerous other functionaries in black satin knee 
breeches, red coats and powdered hair, politely 
directed us to the staircase. Going up we met Mrs. 
M. and a friend coming down; I had a momentary- 
panic for fear that we were really late, or that I had 
made a mistake in the hour. But it seems that a 
special time is appointed for each person presented, 
in order that the Queen may meet and receive at 
her ease all those invited to the Palace. When we 
reached the head of the stairs, we entered a long 
corridor, at the right of which stood a line of ten or 
twelve footmen dressed as those below. A place for 
wraps was conveniently arranged at one side of the 
entrance, and a check for each person's things given 
in the usual way. At the other end of the corridor, 
we were met by one of the principal functionaries of 
the Palace, carrying a long gold mounted staff, who 
conducted us through several elegantly furnished 
drawing-rooms. Our guide, if one can speak in 
that way, never turned his face from us, but backed 
in and around doors and furniture in the most grace- 
ful and incomprehensible way. We were asked to 
be seated in a beautiful reception room, where sev- 
eral other ladies and gentlemen were waiting like 

[144] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ourselves, to be presented to Her Majesty Queen 
Elena of Italy. Most of the ladies wore light cloth 
gowns, very elaborate, as one might expect, and 
everyone wore more jewels than are ordinarily suit- 
able with visiting costumes. I wore my white 
broadcloth princess gown, that is trimmed with 
Cluny lace embroidered in gold thread, the little 
white and gold toque to match, and my ropes 
of pearls. Do you approve? No one ever wears a 
glove on the right hand when presented to the 
Queen. The left hand is gloved, and the right glove 
is carried in the left hand, so that if Her Majesty 
does extend her hand, you may be ready to accept 
her kindness immediately and in the approved 
manner. 

We had been in the room but a short time, when 
the Duke of Ascoli introduced himself to F. B., and 
though we had come rather later than some people, 
he at once asked us to accompany him into the next 
room, where he presented us to his wife, the 
Duchess. This ducal title is Neapolitan, but the 
Duchess was the Princess Pio di Savoia before her 
marriage. She asked us to be seated, and chatted 
with us for the few moments we had to wait, while 
the Queen made her adieux to those who had been 
presented just before us. While we waited, I had 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

a chance to look about the lovely room where the 
Duchess had received us. It was hung with elegant 
tapestries, which I did not have time to see thor- 
oughly, for the Duchess soon led us to the door of 
the room in which Her Majesty was receiving. I 
shall never quite forget my first glance at the Queen^ 
as she stood majestic and alone in the centre of the 
room, in front of a huge mound of flowering plants 
and ferns, that formed an appropriate background 
for her dark imperial beauty. It could be only a 
glance, of course, as the first courtesy of ceremony 
is made directly as you enter, another when you are 
about half way across the room., and still another 
when you are directly in front of Her Majesty. 

You remember, that when Queen Elena was mar- 
ried, it was said throughout Europe, that she was the 
most beautiful woman in the world, but one hears 
that remark not infrequently of famous people, and 
at the time, I did not realize how literally true the 
statement was in regard to the Queen of Italy. None 
of her photographs, beautiful as they are, give you 
any idea of the person of the Queen herself, for 
there is an indefinable expression of sweetness, kind- 
liness and charm that no camera can portray. 

Before I could make my last courtesy, Her Majesty 
held out her hand to me, and asked if I had been 

[146] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

long in Italy. She spoke in Italian and French, 
neither of us seemingly conscious of the change 
from one language to the other, but I have since 
been told that the Queen rather prefers French, as 
that is the language she has always been accustomed 
to speak. You will recall that she was educated 
chiefly in France and Russia. 

You will want to know what she wore, but I 
almost forgot to notice, I was so impressed by the 
glorious beauty of the woman herself; but being a 
woman, I did not quite forget. Her gown was a 
soft gray crepe-de-chine, embroidered in shades of 
gray and small silver spangles. It was cut with a 
low lining, and beautiful Venetian lace formed the 
yoke that was finished in a collar of the gray; she 
wore a string of very large pearls, and one or two 
diamond ornaments. I think it is only a brunette of 
just her type that can wear gray satisfactorily; but no 
gown of any sort would ever be very much noticed 
on such a beautiful woman. Her hair is simply be- 
yond description ; it is very heavy, so black that it is 
almost blue, and is drawn loosely back from her face 
and fine forehead in large, soft waves. She is very 
tall, but her figure is perfect. Her eyes are very 
dark brown and are very brilliant, but her mouth is 
to me her most attractive feature, for, as she speaks, 

[H7] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

her lower lip quivers just the tiniest bit in the 
world, showing a tenderness of nature, such as one 
rarely meets. 

I had feared that my conversation might be some- 
what constrained, but Her Majesty put me immedi- 
ately at my ease, asked me many questions about 
Boston and the Dante Alighieri Society, to which I 
belong, and if I had been in Italy before. After we 
had talked some time, the Queen put out her hand 
and bade us good-bye with a charming cordiality, 
yet with an impressive dignity, that showed at once 
the Queen and the sweet woman. We backed out 
of the room, making our courtesy at the doorway, 
and were at once conducted by the Duchess of Ascoli 
to the first reception room where we had previously 
waited. The Duke greeted us there, and presented 
us to Count Bruschi, another Gentleman-in- Waiting 
to the Queen, whom I met, as I think I wrote you, 
the other evening at the private theatricals. Count 
Bruschi conducted us to a large room, where a most 
elaborate buffet was prepared for Her Majesty's 
guests. The Count seemed pleased that I could 
speak Italian, and we chatted pleasantly of the the- 
atricals, of Rome, and other things, while we had our 
tea ; other people who had been presented were also 
having tea, chocolate or ices, according to their 

[148] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

tastes. When he said good afternoon, we found 
ourselves in the corridor where we had left our 
wraps, which we got at once and drove away. 

Heretofore, I am told, the presentations at the 
Court of Italy were very formal affairs. People were 
conducted to the presence of Their Majesties by 
Court officials, and were ceremoniously presented to 
the Court and Royal Household. No words were 
exchanged with Their Majesties, who were seated 
on their throne, and the low courtesy made in front 
of the King and Queen comprised the whole cere- 
mony. But Queen Elena has recently established 
this charming way of personally receiving and greet- 
ing everyone who is presented at her Court; the 
change, while a great innovation, is universally wel- 
comed, and is certainly most delightful. It is more 
irksome, of course, for the Queen, but as I have 
said, she has such a sweet nature that she considers 
herself last of all, and is ever thoughtful of the happi- 
ness of others. 

Aunt Mary and some friends were waiting for us 
at the hotel when we returned, to hear about the 
presentation, but I could talk of nothing but the 
sweetness and beauty of the Queen. She is such a 
great personage that of course you know a good 
deal about her; that she was the eldest daughter of 

[H9] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the Prince of Montenegro, and was the Princess 
most sought and most admired at several of the 
Courts of Europe before her marriage. Contrary to 
current report the Queen is very fond of music, and 
plays the violin extremely well, so one of her Ladies- 
in- Waiting told me. She is very fond of art, is 
quite a wonderful photographer, and as a matter of 
course, an excellent linguist; but she is primarily a 
beautiful woman with all that the word implies, a 
most affectionate mother and devoted wife. Her 
children, the little Princess Jolanda, the Princess 
Mafalda, and the little Prince of Piedmonte, bid fair 
to inherit their mother's beauty. Certainly the 
little Prince of Piedmonte should some day make 
a splendid King, for no Royal child ever had 
more devoted or more constant care. Nothing 
is ever allowed to interfere with his wants and needs, 
and no Royal function, indeed no function of 
any sort, can hope for the Queen's presence if it in- 
terferes with H. R. H's. supper. Is n't it splendid 
for a young woman in the Queen's great position to 
give the world such an example? As you may 
imagine from what I have already said of her sweet 
personality, she is adored the length and breadth of 
Italy. To be sure the Italians are in the habit of 
adoring their Queen, for they have loved Queen 

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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Margherita and love her still, with an affection that 
few Sovereigns ever receive from their people. But 
the Italian heart is large, and it has made room and 
generous room for its new Queen, so young, so good 
and so lovable. 

The King is equally devoted to his children, and 
we quite often read in the morning paper of the 
Royal family having spent the day in the country 
picnicking together at one of their palaces in the 
suburbs of Rome, going and coming in a large auto- 
mobile, which the King runs himself. He is very 
fond of motoring, and one frequently meets the 
royal couple in an automobile victoria. Queen 
Margherita was very much pleased with her son's 
marriage, and is exceedingly fond of her beautiful 
daughter-in-law. 

Questions of precedence are always very delicate, 
but in the case of the two Queens of Italy, they are 
unusually so, as the Queen Dowager is a handsome 
woman, still in her prime. However, Queen Elena 
is always most thoughtful as well as most tactful, 
and so arranges her comings and goings that the 
Queen Mother is almost never obliged to take second 
place, as, of course, she must do since she became 
Queen Dowager. I have noticed at various concerts 
and places, where the two Queens are to be present. 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

that Queen Elena always comes or goes a little late or 
a little early, so that Queen Margherita may make her 
entry and take her leave in the way she has always 
been accustomed to do ; but when the two meet 
there is every show of pleasant affection on both 
sides. 

Queen Elena is very much interested in the In- 
dustrie Femminili, and a few days ago took her first 
walk in Rome to the small palazzo, owned and built 
by the Industrial Corporation. She asked many 
questions about the work, bought many things, and 
insisted upon returning to the palace on foot. Both 
the King and Queen are distinctly democratic in 
their ideas, and I think their attitude of geniality 
has done much to allay the smouldering fires of 
socialism, from which Italy has so much to fear, and 
which is a constant menace to the otherwise success- 
ful industrial growth of the country. 

As Queen Margherita has always been the special 
patroness of music in Italy, Queen Elena has not 
disturbed this patronage, and is careful not to inter- 
fere with the musical interests of the Queen Mother, 
or with any organization which has always received 
Queen Margherita's patronage. Consequently, 
many people have been led to believe that she is 
not musical, nor particularly fond of music, but this 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

is quite erroneous. At present she is only too happy 
to devote much of her time to her little family, for 
she knows that no one could do more than Queen 
Margherita to encourage Italian Art in all its branches. 
However, when occasion offers, she never fails to 
show her keen interest in the art and music of Italy, 
and manifests the greatest interest in the work of 
modern Italian artists, exhibited each year at the 
National Gallery at Rome. On these occasions the 
King and Queen formally open the exhibition, and 
I am told that the Queen is always greatly inter- 
ested in the work of the young and rising artists. 
Queen Margherita has always been the protecting 
goddess of the St. Cecilia Society, and Queen Elena 
is rarely seen at one of these concerts; but if an 
artist of great fame visits Rome, a special concert is 
almost invariably arranged for Queen Elena's per- 
sonal enjoyment. 

Queen Elena is one of the best shots in Italy, and 
invariably accompanies the King on his hunting ex- 
peditions ; she is also a fine horsewoman, and her 
little daughters are already beginning to ride. 

One of the Italian ladies, who is interested in 
many charities, told me that when Queen Elena 
visited a certain school for poor children, not long 
ago, the poor women outside of the school, mothers 

[153] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

of the children, many of them, formed a line on 
both sides of the path leading from the school to 
the Royal carriage, and as the Queen passed, bent 
and kissed her dress. " You can have no idea how 
the poor people adore our Queen,'' the lady said to 
me, and well they may, for Queen Elena is in every 
way adorable. 



[154] 



XXI 

To C. R. 

Rome, Italy, February 19, 1905 

My dear C, : 

WHOM do you think I sat beside last night 
at the opera ? Mme. Ternina, and we 
had great fun talking over the new opera 
that we were both interested to hear — Celia's 
"Adrienne Lecouvreur." Mme. Krusceniski, the 
young Polish soprano, sang beautifully, but Ternina 
said she was straining her voice very much, and I 
thought so, too. She sings, as a rule, three or four 
nights a week, which of course is a great strain, as she 
is quite young and takes very heavy roles. We shall 
not have the luck to hear Ternina in Rome, for she is 
travelling this winter for pleasure, and not singing at all. 
This afternoon R.'s mother took us for a lovely 
drive, away out on the Via Nomentana as far as the 
old bridge with the Medieval tower, where we had 
a lovely view of the river Teverone, winding through 
the Campagna. We went out through the Porta 
Pia, and passed the place marked with the great 

[^55] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

tablet where the Italian army under Gen. Cadorna en- 
tered Rome on the 20th of September, 1870. A 
new suburb is springing up outside of this gate, and 
there are many handsome villas being built here. 
Then we drove out to the church of Sant' Agnese 
Fuori le Mura. This old church was built by Con- 
stantine over the tomb of St. Agnes, and retains 
many characteristics of the early Christian basilica. 
Just before we reached the entrance, R. pointed out 
in the court to the right, through a large window, a 
dreadful fresco in commemoration of what is called 
the miracle of Pius IX. It seems that on the 1 5th 
of April, 1855, the floor of the room adjoining 
the church, where the Pope had returned after 
mass, gave way, and Pio Nono was precipitated into 
the cellar; because he was extricated unhurt, he 
announced that he had performed a miracle. 

We went down into the church which is really 
underground, and the sixth century mosaics and old 
pillars were quite interesting. On our way up a 
small baby was violently protesting at baptism; the 
calm priest paid no attention to the poor infant's 
screaming, but continued his services in Latin, dash- 
ing cold water regardless on the baby's head at the 
approved and proper moment. 

There are some catacombs to be seen here, but I 

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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

have never been willing to go down into these damp, 
grewsome places. 

It was a heavenly day, warm and bright with sun- 
shine, and off to the right Signor A. pointed out the 
little hill-towns of Frascati, Albano and Nemi, while 
the snow-capped Alban mountains formed a beauti- 
ful background for the picture. 

On our way back into Rome we passed the villa of 
the poet Leopardi, and then R. insisted on our going 
down to the Corso for tea. We had the greatest 
difficulty in getting a table at the Cafe Nazionale, 
and some difficulty in getting into the restaurant 
at all, for at this hour of the day the Corso 
is very crowded, and there is a regular parade of car- 
riages. All the dandies in Rome, young and old, 
assemble near this big tea place about five o'clock. 
It is really quite brilliant, and many of the people 
take a liqueur or something else at little tables, out- 
side of the restaurant, in spite of the cold. How 
they can stand it I do not see! 

We had scarcely reached home when Countess 
Bruschi called ; she is a perfect beauty, and has such 
sweet manners; they say the Queen is very fond of 
her and as one of the Ladies-of-Honor to Her 
Majesty she is often at the palace, even when not 
de service, 

[^57] 



XXII 
To E. F. D. B. 

Rome, Italy, February 20, 1905 

My dear M, : 

YOUR letters are full of questions about my 
music, and I am happy to say I have been 
singing a good deal of late. Last week 
our Ambassador gave a brilliant reception, and asked 
me if I would sing. People were really enthusiastic 
about my voice ; when I finished the aria from the 
" Magic Flute," a well known gentleman from Phila- 
delphia, standing near F. B., said to him in a very 
earnest manner, " Really a remarkable voice, don't 
you think so?'' F. B. laughed and said, "Well, 
yes, I enjoy hearing it every day ; the singer is my 
wife." This aria always seems to surprise and please 
people. It is written so high that almost no one 
living sings it in the original key. Mozart's wife 
and his wife's sister, had, as you know, exceptionally 
high voices. The Ambassador was very charming 
and presented me to many of his guests. Lady 
Egerton, the wife of the British Ambassador, left 

[158] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

early, as the news of the murder of the Grand Duke 
Sergius became known, and as she was a Russian 
Princess before her marriage, she wished, of course, 
to retire as soon as possible. However, she was kind 
enough to wait until I had finished singing, and did 
me the honor to ask me to visit her and sing 
with her. I am sure I shall enjoy making music 
with her, as she expressed it, as I am told she is 
a very fine pianist, and a woman of rare culture 
and talent. 

This same evening I met the Duchess of Sermo- 
neta, who was one of the beautiful Misses Wil- 
braham of the family of the Earls of Lathom. She 
is very fond of music, and spoke very charmingly of 
my singing. One of her sons is a successful com- 
poser, I am told, and spends the greater part of his 
time in Paris. The Duchess is still a handsome 
woman, and the other evening was wearing the fa- 
mous Sermoneta pearls, the largest in the world, I 
believe. 

The Caetani family is one of the most distin- 
guished in Italy, and has given two Popes to the 
Church ; one in 1 1 1 8 as Pope Gelasius II, while 
Benedetto Caetani, in 1294, became the celebrated 
Pope Boniface VIII. The papacy at that time had 
fallen much in the general esteem of the nations, 

[159] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

chiefly because of a succession of weak pontiffs, who 
had one after the other filled the papal chair. 

Benedetto Caetani, the ablest of the Cardinals, 
at last succeeded in having himself declared Pope, as 
Boniface VIII. His path to the pontifical chair 
had not been strewn with roses, and his reign was 
one long strife for the complete supremacy of the 
papal monarchy. He was an ambitious and ener- 
getic man of undoubted ability, who fully realized 
the importance and power of his great position as 
the head of Christendom, but the political tendencies 
of the time were changing. The crusades were over, 
and gun-powder and cannon were soon to be heard 
on the battlefield. Poor man, he could not bend 
nor yield to the growing power of the temporal 
kingdoms, but persisted in fighting to the end. He 
was a fighter from the start, yet, in a way, he had to 
struggle to maintain his position. He crushed the 
powerful Colonna family, and seized their great 
stronghold of Palestrina; the Colonna Cardinals were 
deposed, and the family reduced to beggary and exiled 
to France. He issued the famous Bulls, " De Clericis 
Laicos'' against Philip IV of France, in which he de- 
clared all church property exempt from taxation, and 
" Unam Sanctam,'' which boldly asserted his supreme 
temporal power. Philip retaliated by expelling the 

[i6o] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE- 

papal legate from France, and Boniface answered by 
excommunication. But to the popular Philip le Bel 
excommunication mattered little, and the French 
nation took the part of their King. Then an 
alliance was made between the French and the Co- 
lonnas, who were only too delighted to have an op- 
portunity of wreaking vengeance, and poor Boniface 
paid dearly for his arrogance; indeed, he barely es- 
caped death at the hands of Sciarra Colonna, who 
was with difficulty prevented from slaying the old 
Pope on his throne. He was at Anagni, his birth- 
place and summer residence, when told of the ap- 
proaching army ; like the Roman senators of old, 
Boniface dressed himself in his pontifical robes, 
placed his tiara on his head, and with the keys of St. 
Peter in one hand and the crozier in the other, took 
his seat on the papal throne, and awaited the ap- 
proach of his enemies. He was ordered to abdicate 
upon pain of death, but he proudly answered, " Be- 
hold my neck, behold my head ! '' His own people 
could not bear to see their aged pontiff carried off 
to prison; they rose and drove out the soldiers, and 
the pontiff's return to Rome was a triumphal march. 
In 1300 he inaugurated the first papal jubilee, 
when pilgrims flocked from all parts of Christendom 
to the Eternal City; and countless gifts were laid 

[161] 



.GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

upon the altar of St. Peter's, while the coins had actu- 
ally to be raked up, so devout was the joy with which 
the faithful received the blessing of the church. 
Nevertheless, his ascendancy was not to last long. 
Worn out with the fearful trials of his reign, and 
the privations that he had suffered, he died at the age 
of eighty-six. Boniface had many enemies, but the 
great pope stands out withal a noble figure. He 
was the last champion of the age of chivalry, and 
fought to the last against the new life of a new era. 
The papal dream of universal monarchy vanished 
forever with him. 

The Caetani in their turn lost their lands through 
the Borgia Pope, Alexander VI, but recovered them 
again under the warlike Pope Julius II, and thence- 
forth down to the present day the family has remained 
rich and powerful. The Caetani of to-day have all 
the traditional family wit and talents ; Michelangelo, 
the blind father of the present Duke, was he who 
carried to Victor Emmanuel II the plebiscite of the 
Roman people. It is a little singular that the eldest 
son of the present Duke of Sermoneta, the Prince of 
Teano, should choose for his bride the beautiful Prin- 
cess with the historic name of Vittoria Colonna. To 
think that the descendants of two such powerful enemies 
should come together after so many centuries in per- 

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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

feet harmony ! It is very interesting to me that there 
are so many names in one family. You would not 
think in speaking of the Duke of Sermoneta, the 
Prince of Teano, the Prince of Bassiano and Don 
G. Caetani that you were alluding to a father and 
three sons, would you? 

I passed a delightful evening a short time ago with 
the present Duke's sister, Ersilia, Countess Lovatelli, 
who is said to have the most literary salon in Rome. 
Her palace is beautiful, with large, high rooms, hung 
in various shades of brocade, and ornamented with 
rare and costly bric-a-brac. It is one of the best and 
most thoroughly heated in Rome ; that seems a queer 
thing to speak of as a special distinction of a palace, 
but I assure you, if you could go into some of the 
cold palaces here, you would think it a very proper 
one. The Countess is a great archaeologist and a 
charming authoress. Young Professor Helbig was 
kind enough to take us to her palace, and made the 
introduction to the Countess on behalf of his mother, 
who goes out very little in the evening. The Coun- 
tess received us charmingly, and presented me to 
numerous literary men of distinction — Italian, French 
and German. Our evening was so pleasant and our 
invitation to return so cordial, that we have been sev- 
eral times to her palace, and yesterday she sent me 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

one of her novels with a charming dedication. The 
Countess, who is a very tall, handsome woman, with 
black hair and eyes, presents a striking contrast to 
her sister-in-law, the Duchess, who is tall and fair, 
with lovely blue eyes and the brilliant complexion of 
the best type of the English beauty. 

The Duchess made a most charming hostess her- 
self a few days later, when we went to take tea with 
her in her wonderful Caetani palace, situated in one of 
the old parts of Rome, in a little square that bears the 
family name. We were received quite in the Eng- 
lish fashion and she poured the tea herself. She 
presented her brother-in-law, the Earl of Crawford, 
who is about to start off on his yacht, the "Valhalla," 
to take part in the great ocean yacht race, which 
comes off very shortly, I believe. He and F. B. 
were soon interested in discussing the contesting 
yachts, while the Duchess presented me to the Coun- 
tess Lutzow,the Ambassadress from Austria- Hungary 
to the Quirinal. I have not yet met the Austro- 
Hungarian Ambassadress to the Vatican, who lives 
in the famous Venetian palace that Austria clung to 
after her expulsion from Italy; but I am told that the 
Countess Szecsen di Temerin is very charming and 
fond of music. 

[164] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Just as we were saying good-bye to the Duchess, 
Mrs. W. K. V. and her sister entered, and I was 
struck by the fact that in that famous old palace of 
Italy not a word of Italian had been spoken during 
the whole afternoon; the Duchess, as well as many 
of her guests, were English; the Austrian Ambassa- 
dress, I was told, had an English mother, and the 
four Americans quite completed the Anglo-Saxon 
party. But this Anglo-Saxon impression was quite 
done away with as we passed through one after the 
other of the beautiful series of drawing rooms. These 
were hung with old Gobelin and Flemish tapestries, 
decorated with stately mirrors, statues, pictures, old 
and new, beautiful frescoes, and furnished with rare 
pieces of Chinese ebony, Indian teak wood and many 
old Italian and French pieces, that showed every 
evidence of great wealth, extensive travel and most 
excellent taste. We also passed through the large and 
beautifully tapestried gallery, where one could easily 
imagine that in the olden times the great feudal 
lords of the family received the homage of their 
vassals, and sat in judgment on them. The power 
of life and death was in their hands, and in those by- 
gone days they did not hesitate to use it. From 
this gallery we were conducted to a large entrance 

[i6s] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

hall, where flunkies in picturesque liveries and pow- 
dered hair helped us with our wraps. An imposing 
porter, looking much like an American drum-major, 
escorted us to our carriage. '^Avanti,'' he called loudly 
to our coachman, and the carriage rumbled out un- 
der the great stone archway through the Piazza 
Caetani and into the street of the Botteghe Scure 
(obscure shops), where no sidewalks were ever built, 
because the street was all the peasants required, and 
the grand ^'Seigneurs'' of the palace never walked 
abroad. 

I had such a pleasant afternoon that I am looking 
forward to meeting the Duchess again. I read the 
other day an account of the famous fancy dress ball 
she once gave in honor of Their Majesties, King 
Umberto and Queen Margherita. It must have been 
a brilliant sight to see the great assembly of the 
Kings, Queens and Princes of Europe in that won- 
derful old palace; but I am sure, that no one was 
more beautiful than the hostess herself, unless, per- 
haps, Her Majesty, Queen Margherita, who is so 
lovely on all occasions. 

You will be interested to know that Prof. Sgam- 
bati has composed for me a fine cello obligato for 
one of his songs, and he played my accompaniments 

[1 66] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

when I sang at Mrs. McGee's villa the other day. 
Mrs. McGee's charming home is a sort of a Mecca 
for Americans who come here, and at her Saturday- 
afternoons you will find all the Americans in Rome, 
de passage or otherwise. She is fond of music and 
seemed very pleased to have me sing for her. Thanks 
to her thoughtfulness, the arrangements were per- 
fect, and she made the people coming and going 
keep very quiet. Mrs. McGee is a very kind-hearted 
rich woman, who has already made herself much 
liked here among the Italians, as well as in the 
American colony. She gives delightful dinners and 
balls, and has contributed most generously, I am told, 
to many of the Italian charities. 

We met such an attractive American this p. m., 
the Marchesa di Sorbello, who was Romaine Roberts 
before her marriage, and she has asked us to come 
and see her. She knows many of our friends 
at home, I find, and I have often noticed, on our 
way to the Pincio, her palace in the Piazza del 
Popolo. 

We are going out now to call on the Countess 
Zaccaria of Milan, who is staying at the Palace Hotel 
for the winter. She is the mother of two sweet, 
pretty daughters, and she showed me a photograph 

[167] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

of her mother, the Duchess Melzi d'Eril, that looks 
ever so much like you. 

We met there the other day the lovely Duchess 
Visconti di Modrone from Milan. Visconti is closely 
connected in my mind with History I. in RadclifFe, 
and I was interested to meet a member of this very 
famous family. The Duchess does n't remind one of 
olden times, I assure you, for she is about as chic 
and handsome as anyone could wish. She has large 
dark eyes, black hair and a fine figure, which she 
dresses to perfection in lovely gowns. She had just 
met some Americans who had recently come to 
Rome and asked me all about them. 

Let the idea that Italy is poor leave your sympa- 
thetic mind. If you could see some of the exqui- 
site up-to-date toilettes that these Italian beauties 
wear, you would exclaim as I do, with a series of 
adjectives before each new vision. Jewels may be 
kept for years, I know, and the jewels here in Rome 
go ahead of any I have ever seen; but clothes, my 
dear, we know too well, are out-dated in a year, 
generally in six months. 

The Visconti, as they say here, is extremely ani- 
mated, and wherever she goes in the evening, she 
moves about with a little court of admirers, who fol- 

[i68] 



THE DUCHESS VISCONTI DI MODRONE 




COPYRIGHT, 1905, BY TRYPHOSA BATES BATCHELLtS 






GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

low devotedly after her. I must stop, for my pen 
runs riot when I start talking about these fascinating 
women. 

Au revoir, dear, love to "Dad," "Tip'* and the 
friends at home. 



[169] 



XXIII 
To C. R. 

Rome, Italy, February 22, 1905 

My dear C: 

I SUPPOSE we should all feel properly patriotic 
this morning, but I have reserved my patri- 
otism for this afternoon, v^hen we are going to 
the reception at the Embassy. This morning we 
had the rare good luck to have tickets sent us (R. is 
ever kind), to the opening of the Palazzo delle 
Belle Arti, by Their Majesties the King and Queen. 
We were told that it was simply impossible to get 
tickets, but it did not seem to be, and we had a 
beautiful time. The Queen was lovely as ever, in a 
dark blue street gown, and seemed to enjoy the 
pictures very much. Count San Martino, who is 
President of the Societa degli Amatori e Cultori di 
Belle Arti, received Their Majesties and showed them 
about the rooms of the exposition. 

There were really a great many fine pictures ; 
those that interested us most were by Sartorio. A 
whole room was given up to his pictures that seemed 

[170] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

to be of all kinds and styles. His water colors were 
beautiful, some of his animal sketches extraordinary, 
and his landscapes unusually fine, we thought. 
There were some very weird pictures by Stetson, of 
Pasadena, Cal., a few good portraits, a lovely water 
color by Gabrini, and some excellent pieces of sculp- 
ture. As a whole the exposition was excellent in 
every way, and we mean to run in often to get better 
acquainted with some of these artists' work. 

On the way home we stopped in for a moment to 
see the wonderful Bambino at the church of Santa 
Maria of Aracoeli, that is supposed to perform such 
miraculous cures. The little olive wood baby is 
loaded down with votive offerings of the faithful. 
Our time was limited, so we could not stay long, but 
we mean to come again to see the other interesting 
things in the church, where the remains of St. Helena 
are supposed to lie in an ancient porphyry sar- 
cophagus under the altar. 

As we drove back to the hotel we passed the im- 
mensely extensive monument that is being erected to 
Victor Emmanuel II. It will be most imposing 
when done, but it is far from complete at present. 

We have just come in from the Washington's Birth- 
day reception at our Embassy. A large portrait of 

[171] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

George Washington was arranged in one of the 
rooms, and one would scarcely believe that there 
were so many Americans in Rome, as we met to- 
day. 

Mrs. Meyer looked extremely well in a plain 
black velvet gown, that was most becoming to her 
blonde coloring. She has a fine figure and usually 
wears simply-made gowns of elegant cut and 
material, with the result that she always looks very 
well dressed; she carries herself beautifully. These 
are her last days in Rome, where she has entertained 
so much, and has had such a good time for the past 
few years, for Mr. Meyer has received his appoint- 
ment as Ambassador to St. Petersburg. 

I cannot begin to tell you all the people I saw, 
but there were a number of Americans, just passing 
through Rome, with whom I exchanged greetings. 
Alice, and Julia Meyer (very attractive girls they 
are) looked after me at the tea table, and I think in 
spite of the large number of people there, I saw only 
two or three who were not Americans. Monsignore 
O'Connell was presented to me, and looked so fine in 
his dark purple soutane and red cap, that I addressed 
him in French at first, but he smilingly said, "Plain, 
straight English, please, I come from Maine." He 
is a very interesting man, has lived in Rome a great 

[172] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

deal, and for some time was connected with the 
American CathoHc Seminary here. 

The Brancaccio palace is quite a distance from us, 
and as we are dining out to-night and going to the 
gala performance of the opera afterwards, we hurried 
away home rather early. 



[173] 



XXIV 
To E. F. D. B. 

Rome, Italy, February 23, 1905 
My dear M,: 

THANKS to Donna Bice Tittoni, who so 
kindly secured us seats, we attended the gala 
performance at the opera last evening. I 
think the custom of using the word "Donna'' before 
a lady's name is very pretty. The performance was 
given for the benefit of the National Institute for the 
Orphans and Civil Employees of the State of the 
Province of Rome and of the Naval League. The 
management of the Costanzi Theatre, where the 
opera is now given here, gave a very satisfactory 
performance of Aida, and the Polish soprano, Mme. 
Krusceniski, sang her music most effectively. The 
tenor, Signor Zenatello, was unusually fine, and I 
presume it will not be long before he is heard at 
Covent Garden. Good tenors are very rare, and so 
many of the best ones seem to come from Italy. 

At the end of the first act. Their Majesties the King 
and Queen arrived, accompanied by the Duke and 

[174] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Duchess of Ascoli. Every seat in the great theatre 
was filled, and when the orchestra played the Royal 
Hymn, as the King and Queen entered, the applause 
was fairly deafening. 

Her Majesty wore a black lace gown, somewhat 
spangled with jet, a band of black velvet about her 
throat holding in place ^]qwq\qA plaque coulant, a dia- 
mond necklace, and a diamond star in her beautiful 
hair. She wore black, I suppose, as the Court has 
gone into half mourning for a short time for the 
Grand Duke Sergius. Of course, you read about his 
frightful death in the papers at home, and you will 
recall that Queen Elena lived in Russia several years, 
and was much beloved and admired at the Russian 
Court. I think on account of the Court mourning, 
everyone dressed rather more quietly than usual, so 
while the audience was very interesting, and not 
nearly everyone was in black, still one was distinctly 
conscious of an effort to be less gay than usual. 

Donna Bice was looking particularly handsome in 
her box, and the Countess Gianotti, always elegant, 
was in another box with her pretty daughter, Mar- 
cella. In the Court box I noticed His Excellency 
Count Gianotti, a most distinguished-looking man 
with his very white hair and soldierly bearing ; Mar- 
chese Cappelli was in the Hunt Club box; and Don 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Marcantonio Colonna was also pointed out to me. I 
had no idea that such good opera was given in Rome, 
and F. B. and I are delighted at the prospect of en- 
joying some pleasant evenings at the Costanzi during 
the rest of the season. 

To-morrow morning I am going to sing over some 
of Sgambati's songs with the great man himself. He 
has offered to come over and play his own songs and 
other music with me two or three times a week. It 
will be a delightful privilege, and I think he is most 
kind. He and the Signora are dining with us in- 
formally to-morrow evening, and I will write again 
very soon. 



[176] 



XXV 

To C. R. 

Rome, Italy, March 2, 1905 

My dear C. : 

IT is high carnival here now, and balls and gay- 
eties of all kinds are following one another in 
quick succession. Everyone tells us that the 
carnival is nothing to what it used to be, when the 
noble Roman ladies drove about masked, in their 
private carriages, scattering sweetmeats and flowers 
to the crowds around them ; but it seems rather gay 
to us as it is. 

Yesterday afternoon when we took our drive on 
the Pincio, we passed several groups of gaily costumed 
girls and boys. Some were dressed as follies, with 
whitened faces, looking exactly like escaped clowns 
from a circus, while others had mediaeval costumes 
with much tinsel and cotton velvet ; and all wore 
masks. But fashionable carnival is held behind 
palace gates, or in elegant amateur theatricals. 

We went masked to the Argentina theatre the 
other night, where we had a box, that we might see 

[^77] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

a little of the people's carnival fun. Several of our 
friends had come masked, like ourselves, into boxes 
near-by, and we had much amusement trying to dis- 
cover who was who. About midnight crowds of 
maskers came on to the floor, which was built up 
level with the stage, thus covering the orchestra seats 
entirely. There were some very pretty costumes 
among the dancers, and a prize in money was offered for 
the most effective and becoming one. A girl dressed 
as a Spanish dancer won the prize, and she really 
looked very pretty in the bright reds and yellows, 
that contrasted well with her black hair and eyes. 

We bought bundles of confetti and packages of 
serpentine, which we tied to numerous small boxes of 
candies that we threw down into the crowd below, 
and it was great fun watching the scramble for the 
goodies. Suddenly the crowd surged towards one 
box, and on looking closer we discovered that the 
beautiful Cavalieri was throwing flowers and sweet- 
meats to an eager, admiring throng. She certainly 
is exceedingly beautiful, and they say she sings very 
well in Grand Opera now. A gentleman told me, 
who knows a good deal about her, that she is a great 
student, and has worked fearfully hard to win a 
position in the world of serious music. It surely is a 
great jump from the Folies Bergeres to Grand Opera. 

[178] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

As I think I wrote you, Countess Bruschi obtained 
for us cards to what they call here a Bal de Tetes, 
and what we should call a fancy dress ball. I am so 
sorry that I did not bring my "Manon costume," 
that I wore to the Artists' Festival in Boston, as it 
would have been exactly the thing for last night. 
However, it was not obligatory to go in costume, or 
even to powder the hair, if one did not wish to do so, 
and once there, I felt quite comfortable as there were 
many other ladies not in fancy dress. I wore my 
violet spangled gown, as it is so brilliant, and as so 
many of the costumes were very gay, a dull gown 
would have been quite lost, however pretty. 

The ball was given at the Grand Hotel for the benefit 
of the charity, called Pro Infantia, The patronesses 
were among the most prominent women in Rome: 
Donna Bice Tittoni, the Countess Suardi, who is pres- 
ident of the Industrie Femminili ; the Countess 
della Somaglia, who before her marriage was a prin- 
cess of the famous Doria family; the Princess Doria 
Pamphilj, who, besides her most lovely Roman palace, 
presides over the exquisite Villa Doria, the Marchesa 
Bourbon del Monte, who is such a fine horsewoman, 
the beautiful Marchesa Carlo di Rudini, a daughter- 
in-law of Her Excellency, the Marchesa Leone di 
Rudini ; the Marchesa Monaldi, a charming English 

[179] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

woman ; the Duchess di Terranova, who is of 
Spanish birth, and Donna Maria Mazzoleni, a sister- 
in-law of ^ountess Bruschi. Then, of course, there 
are others whom I do not know, and whose names I 
will not stop to write now. Under such distin- 
guished patronage the success of the ball was de- 
termined beforehand, and we were very glad to have 
an opportunity to see it. 

The Grand Hotel is particularly well adapted for 
balls and entertainments of a large nature, because 
the spacious Palm Garden, which forms a sort of en- 
trance to the hotel is connected directly with the 
ball-room beyond. We really had a very pleasant 
evening, and F. B. and I were perfectly delighted to 
have a good waltz together. R. went with us, and 
was very kind in presenting some of the visiting 
celebrities, as well as the people in Rome, as, of 
course, he knows everybody. It was supposed to be 
a ball characterized by the fancy dressing of the head 
and hair, but, as a matter of fact, most of the women 
came in elaborate and beautiful costumes. Far and 
away the most elegant and most beautiful costume 
was worn by the Marchesa Camillo Casati, of the 
famous Casati family of Milan. She was dressed as 
the Empress Theodora, in a perfect fitting princesse 
gown of cloth of silver heavily embroidered in gold. 

[i8o] 



2:3,iioy r 



zz 



THE MARCHESA CAMILLO CASATI 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

The costume was an exact reproduction of one worn 
in Paris by Sarah Bernhardt a short time ago. The 
Marchesa wore on her head a crown formed of eagles, 
and had some of her diamonds set up in a large dia- 
mond eagle, which was her only corsage ornament. 
Two or three ropes of her wonderful and famous 
pearls hung loosely about her beautiful neck, and al- 
together she was quite the most stunning person at 
the ball. She is a handsome woman, tall and 
slight, with a beautiful figure and splendid carriage. 
Her hair is a light chestnut color, and she is always 
pale, though her paleness is of that attractive 
sort that does not indicate ill-health. She is 
said to be one of the best dressed women in 
Rome on all occasions. One thing surprised me very 
much; the dancing was quite American. They call 
our two-step the "Boston," and talk about "Bos- 
toning" in the most amusing way; they seem to like 
it immensely, and nearly everyone waltzes in the 
American fashion also, so, as you may imagine, I was 
in my element. Only those in fancy dress danced 
in the opening quadrille, and that was very nice, for 
we had a better chance in this way to examine the 
more elaborate costumes. 

The Italian woman is certainly the epitome of 
ease and grace, and these women wore their fantastic 

[i8i] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

costumes with as little affectation as if they had been 
summer musHns. You know, at our fancy dress 
balls at home, many people are apt to seem so un- 
natural, so hopelessly conscious of the fact that they 
are dressed up in something different from their ordi- 
nary and conventional garments. It would take too 
long to tell you about all the costumes, but I am 
sure you will be interested to hear about a few. The 
Baroness Renee de Bruck, the daughter of the former 
Ambassador to Rome from Austria, made a most 
attractive Marie Antoinette, in the costume of 
Mme. Le Brun's portrait. Those turbans are cer- 
tainly becoming, and make such a pretty frame about 
the face. The Baroness lives in our hotel, so I see 
her quite often, though I had to look twice to make 
sure it was she, as I pointed her out to F. B. — white 
hair changes the expression so much. Donna Franca 
Florio, one of the richest women in Italy, and by 
many considered one of the handsomest, was very 
elegant as the famous Duchess of Devonshire. Her 
costume was of exquisite white lace, trimmed with 
artificial pansies, and she wore, of course, the con- 
ventional Gainsborough hat, with her hair appro- 
priately and becomingly dressed, after the manner of 
the famous picture. The young girls were very 

[182] 



HO a^IW ,i/jui 111 dJia h/AOQ. Y3/:HJja3X3 H^H 



Liierei". 



HER EXCELLENCY DONNA BICE TITTONI, WIFE OF 
THE MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS 




COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY TRYPHOSA BATES BATCHELLER 



^' (7. 



ih^C-fX^-^i- 



-^ <^c/ ^ f^^ 




5^^ /^' /O .f'^J- 



C-'i' , T-.:.'^V >^^> 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

fetching; perhaps the most effective head dress, a 
Valkyrie helmet, was worn by the daughter of 
Countess Danieli, but the daintiest little Louis XVI 
lady was Miss Patterson, of Baltimore. 

Just outside the ballroom were two little booths 
where lemonade and ices were sold, and two or 
three of the patronesses in their lovely costumes 
served out these dainties. As I was sipping lemon- 
ade with Captain Bodrero, whose wife was an at- 
tractive Desdemona, I discovered F. B. as one of a 
half dozen men who were saying good-night to 
Donna Bice Tittoni. She was looking extremely 
pretty in a light pink gown, and her pearls and dia- 
monds are beautiful. She is most popular with every- 
body everywhere, always bright and animated, and 
always has a pleasant word and smile for all her 
friends. In her position as wife of the Minister of 
Foreign Affairs, naturally she must go out a great 
deal socially, and as this is to be one of the gayest 
weeks of the season, she laughingly waved them all 
good-bye and said she must be off early. 

At first we had intended to leave early ourselves, 
but the time for the cotillion arrived before we knew 
it, and I thought it would be interesting to see how 
they manage here, so we decided to stay on. The 

[183] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

figures were very simple and much like the cotillions 
at home. Nearly all the favors were dainty little 
Japanese fans and dolls, and the whole affair was 
splendidly managed by the Marchese Guglielmi, who 
wore the costume of a Roman peasant boy. 

During the cotillion the orchestra played so contin- 
uously that it actually made me nervous. Think of 
those men playing for two or three hours steadily, 
without the smallest rest ! When we left at two in the 
morning, after a perfectly splendid time, they were 
still fiddling away for dear life ! I met a number of 
people whom I had not met before, and many of them 
have asked me to come to see them. To-morrow 
afternoon I shall devote to card leaving, which is a 
very important matter here. Every man you meet 
in Rome leaves his card within twenty-four hours — 
fancy ! 

Of course, there have been several brilliant balls : 
The Countess Telefner's, the Princess Buoncom- 
pagni's, and the Duchess Sforza Cesarini's; but the 
Princess d'Antuni quite carried off the palm for origi- 
nality at her ball, by having a cute little Sardinian 
donkey draw in a dainty wagon filled with favors for 
the cotillion. Then the Countess Taverna also gave a 
most lovely ball last Thursday in her fine old pal- 

[184] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ace, where she has a beautiful ballroom, hung with 
some fine Giulio Romano pictures. But all balls 
are hop, skip, jump and go, and I know that you 
are more interested to hear about other things; but 
last night's ball, of course, was a little out of the 
ordinary. 



['85] 



XXVI 
To E. F. D. B. 

Rome, Italy, March 5, 1905 

My dear m!: 

THIS morning we went for a good walk to 
the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, so 
called because it is the largest of the eighty- 
churches here in Rome that are dedicated to the 
Virgin Mary. 

There is also a legend that the Virgin appeared to 
a very devout Roman and to the Pope Liberius simul- 
taneously, ordering them to erect a church in her 
honor on the spot where they should find snow in 
the city on the following morning. They are said 
to have built the Basilica Liberiana, but it was re- 
erected by Sextus III in A. D. 432. Only the 
nave, with its very fine old marble columns and mo- 
saics, is left of that edifice. The church has been 
changed and rebuilt numerous times. The interior 
is very elegant and imposing, and the ceiling, which 
is most elaborate, was gilded with the first gold 
brought from America. The ancient tomb of por- 

[186] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

phyry, said to be that of the Roman Patrician Johan- 
nes (of the vision), is supposed to contain the re- 
mains of St. Matthew, and the canopy is borne by 
four splendid porphyry columns. There are a great 
many interesting works of art in the church by Guido 
Reni, Bernini and others, and in the gorgeous Bor- 
ghese Chapel is a very old picture of the Virgin 
(you can barely distinguish the figure, it is so black) 
that is believed to possess miraculous powers. Ac- 
cording to the tradition, it was painted by St. Luke 
himself, and Pope Gregory I is said to have carried 
it about the streets of Rome in a solemn and holy 
procession in A. D. 590. The altar above this pic- 
ture is, like all the Borghese things, very gorgeous, 
and is beautifully inlaid with lapis lazuli, agate, and 
other precious marbles. 

There were a few beggars sunning themselves on 
the steps as we went into the church, but they were 
not at all importunate, as there are severe laws now 
against begging. One sees few beggars here com- 
pared to years ago, and only yesterday F. B. saw 
one arrested and carried off in the police wagon. He 
said the officer was kind to the old man, but that he 
had to be very patient, and expostulated some time 
with him before he could make him get into the 
police wagon. There is also a very efficient Society 

[187] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals here and 
in Naples, to which many of the best people belong. 
The British and American Embassies always give it 
their support, and several of the Italian ladies have 
become much interested in the work of the Society, 
the Duchess of Sermoneta and the Princess d'Antuni 
especially. The Society here has men in uniform, 
who put a stop at once to any cruelties they see, and 
are sustained in so doing by the government. There 
is a new building being erected opposite the Palazzo 
Margherita, and the heavy stones must be drawn 
each day up the narrow, steep Via del Tritone. For 
several days F. B. and I have fretted about the poor 
horses, whose loads were so heavy that they were 
almost unable to move at all when they came to the 
hill; so we were much pleased to see one of the So- 
ciety's men appear yesterday, and order an extra horse 
put to each load when it reached the steep incline. 
This afternoon we stopped on our way to the races 
at Tor di Quinto to see the Countess Bruschi. Her 
apartment is so pretty, and has a delightful outlook 
on the Piazza delle Terme. Her salon is very large, 
draped in red and exceedingly attractive. We met 
there a beautiful woman with wonderful dark eyes, 
but I cannot for the life of me recall her name. 
However, I shall see the Countess in a day or so and 

[i88] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

shall surely ask her. When one is introduced to a 
number of people at one time, it is really very diffi- 
cult to catch all the names correctly at the first "go." 

The races were very good. It has been a bright, 
sunny day, and lots of people drove out. You would 
have enjoyed seeing the riding immensely; I never 
see a fine thoroughbred that I don't wish you could 
see and ride him at once. The racing language, in 
fact the language of sport generally, is English the 
world over, but the English gets funny twists some- 
times. I saw a sign in a hotel to-day: "Very sport- 
ing links at the Golf Club near Rome." We drove 
out there the other day ; they have a nice little house 
in the Campagna, which, of course, makes splendid 
links. It began to rain, and the Scotch teacher said, 
" Come in, come in, please ; you can get wet if you 
like in Scotland, but you must not in Rome, and I 
have paid dearly for that information, too." 

To-day at the races there were numbers of gentle- 
men riders, among them the Marchese di Roccagio- 
vine and Mr. Haseltine, both of whom took prizes 
in one of the steeple-chases. Some of the horses 
had such pretty names : Ulpia, Rugantino and Di- 
vano. Countess Taverna was with her niece, the 
lovely Countess Martini-Marescotti, and I saw also 
the Duchess Visconti and the Marchesa Casati, 

[189] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

both handsome as always. King Umberto I, you: 
remember, was nearly assassinated once when driving 
out here to the races. It is not so easy to be a King 
in Italy, or anywhere, for that matter. 

When we came in we had a little chat with the 
Duchess of San Carlos, who is going about a great 
deal this winter with her pretty daughter. She is 
Spanish, but has many friends here, and is one of the 
most charming women I have met. I see her often, 
as she lives in this hotel. Just as a great exception, 
we are going to be quiet this evening, and I shall 
wrestle with my correspondence. 

I had a very nice letter from Mrs. Lodge not long 
since, and have heard quite regularly from Rosamond 
Lang, who is such a dear, and always finds time to 
do everything ; but then, she belongs to a wonderful 
family. I have written to her, Margaret Upham, and 
one or two others, but writing you and Dad and C. 
such very long letters, I simply can not keep up 
a frequent correspondence with many people, of 
coursQ. 

To-morrow evening is the Court ball, and I am 
looking forward to a fine time. I do hope it will 
not rain, as it is so "messy" when everything is wet 
and there is a great crowd. 

[190] 



XXVII 
To E. F. D. B. 

MUSIC 

Rome, Italy, March 6, 1905 
My dear M. : 

WE have just come in from one of the con- 
certs given by the Royal Academy of Su 
Cecilia, and who should be the artist but 
Pablo Casals, assisted by Bustini ! I am sure you will 
remember Casals, for we saw him so often when 
we were in Paris. He played to-day, as always, with 
consummate art. He had a very long programme 
beginning with that delightful Beethoven sonata in 
A major for the cello and piano, then followed a 
Bach suite, and at the end he played two delightful 
pieces by Faure. 

Queen Margherita, as usual, was present, and 
Count San Martino and Signor Falchi were in the 
Royal box with her. After the concert. Her Maj- 
esty sent for Casals and Bustini and congratulated 
them on their artistic performance. 

The hall in which these concerts are given is de- 

[191] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

lightful, the acoustics are excellent and it is a very 
satisfactory place for musicians in every way. 

One of the principal directors of this Academy is 
Prof. Giovanni Sgambati, who is the pianist and di- 
rector of the Court Quintette for Her Majesty the 
Queen Mother. For many years he has arranged a 
series of concerts for Queen Margherita, which are 
given in her palace during the winter season, to 
which are invited her intimate friends and Ladies-in- 
Waiting. Signora Sgambati told me that when only 
eleven years old, her husband composed a very cred- 
itable sonata for the piano, and he was still a very 
young man when he became one of the foremost 
pianists of his day. He was a great friend of Liszt, 
a fervent believer in the Liszt school of piano playing, 
and is the principal teacher in the piano department 
of the St. Cecilia Academy. From time to time he 
brings out excellent pianists, who generally make 
their mark in the musical world. It is delightful to 
hear him play; as he sits at the piano his eyes assume 
a sort of dreamy expression, and without affectation 
or effort his fingers fly over the keys, showing a rare 
technique. Once at the piano he is quite lost to the 
world, thinking only of the interpretation of the mu- 
sic that he is playing, whether his own or that of 
some other composer. I have often heard him say, 

[192] 



< 
o 

CO 

o 

CO 

CO 

o 
a; 

Oh 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

" I do not like to hear people remark how beautifully 
this or that artist played, but rather what a beautiful 
piece of music they have just heard. The artist should 
be forgotten in the perfect rendering of good music." 
He is a great worker, and like all true artists, believes 
that only with constant work, infinite pains and at- 
tention to detail can great results be obtained. He 
has been much appreciated in Germany, England and 
France. In Paris he was the confrere of Gounod 
and Ambroise Thomas. Like these great Frenchmen, 
Sgambati has composed some charming songs, many 
of which I have enjoyed singing to his own accom- 
paniment this winter. One of these songs is written 
to an Italian setting of a poem by the Countess of 
Chambrun, and Sgambati told me that on one occa- 
sion when he was in Paris, the Countess, who col- 
lected about her all the great men of the time, gave 
a musicale at which the music written for her poem 
by Gounod, Ambroise Thomas and Sgambati was 
sung in succession, all three composers being present. 
Now-a-days it is very difficult for Prof. Sgambati 
to make up his mind to leave Rome. This is really 
not surprising, for he is greatly admired here, and 
his apartment, which looks out on the ever lovely 
Piazza di Spagna, is one of the most attractive 
abiding places one can imagine in Rome. From 

[193] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the windows of his music-room one looks across to 
the Spanish steps, where peasant girls in their 
fantastic Roman costumes are always to be seen sell- 
ing masses of beautiful flowers. 

Signora Sgambati is a charming woman, and very 
much liked in Roman society. One sees her every- 
where, and she knows everyone, having been born 
and brought up in Rome. She herself is very artistic, 
and most devoted to her husband and all his in- 
terests. 

Besides singing the great man's songs with him, 
we have gone over a good many of the old classics 
together as well. He told me he had often played 
the music of Mozart's "Magic Flute,'' but had never 
heard either of the "Queen of the Night" arias 
sung before, so he has asked me to go over them 
several times with him ; and he was much interested 
and greatly pleased with a number of Margaret 
Lang's songs that I sang to him the other morning. 
He tells me that there are very few, if any, really high 
voices in Italy to-day. I was much surprised to learn 
this, but on reflection I can see that it must be so ; for 
modern Italian music is of such a dramatic nature, and 
the music for the soprano role is almost invariably 
so heavy, that in order to have sufficient volume for 
these new operas, the sopranos have been obliged to 

[194] 



'1 / '1 I ^- i O.'T ' ! 



VIEW FROM THE PIAZZA DI SPAGNA OF THE 
STEPS LEADING TO THE CHURCH OF 
SANTISSIMA TRINITA DE' MONTI 

From a ivater-color by J.Febrianchi 




COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY TRYPHOSA BATES t* ' i 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

sacrifice their high notes because of the forcing of 
their middle voice, with the result that to-day in many 
of the Italian opera houses the sopranos are imported 
from other countries. Of course, one cannot sing 
these tremendously heavy dramatic roles with a 
light lyric voice, such as is required in the " Traviata," 
and when a soprano strains her middle notes, her 
very high ones usually go altogether. These rare 
high notes are, as you know, the last to come and 
the first to go in the voice; Patti knew this better 
than any one in the world, and she cared for her 
precious notes in alt. as they should be cared for. 

The modern music of Italy, like most modern 
music, shows the influence of Wagner. I have heard 
the greatest singing teacher of the age, Mme. Matilde 
Marchesi, discuss this subject of Wagner and vocal 
music most interestingly. She had long talks with 
the great composer on this subject, when his works 
were first produced in Vienna, but they never reached 
an agreement ; for Wagner maintained that the com- 
poser was not bound to consider the singer at all in 
his composition, while, of course, Mme. Marchesi 
could never accept this statement, and she believes 
that Wagner has done much to injure the singing art 
of the present age, as he undoubtedly has. So many 
orchestral conductors also have come to feel the pre- 

[195] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

dominant importance of the orchestra, and consider 
the singers far less than in the old Rossini and Verdi 
days ; they let their orchestras bang away regardless 
of the poor singers, who shriek in vain to be heard 
at all. 

Indeed it is not only in the opera that the exagger- 
ated idea of sound (noise is really a more appropriate 
word) is noticeable, for it was but a short time ago in a 
European capital that I heard a famous orchestra under 
a well-known leader play a Beethoven symphony 
with the force and fury of a Wagner composition. 

The great Beethoven with his wonderful dignity 
and intellectuality would have shuddered, I am sure, at 
the smashing, crashing rendering of his distinguished 
music. That I was not alone in this opinion was 
proved by the voicing of similar ideas by several of 
the most eminent critics of the city in the press. Give 
passionate and dramatic interpretations if you will, 
but let them be somewhere within the bounds of 
reason. No one loves the passionate music of Tchai- 
kovsky, or the mystic music of the modern French 
school, more than I, but every one likes balance in 
all things, and few people, I believe, like indiscrimi- 
nate enthusiasm, however sincere it may be. 

That Wagner was a genius no one denies,, but he 
was not the only one, and I cannot bring myself to 

[196] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

believe that he really meant to disregard entirely the 
voices that must interpret his music, for he was such 
a magician for producing all sorts of beautiful effects. 
In any event, all the music for all time should not 
be based on his ideas. No one w^ill ever equal 
Mozart for exquisite melody and truly vocal music, 
to my way of thinking. Dear Sembrich with her 
wonderful art has kept Mozart and the old Italian 
music to the fore with us, and people always 
love it. She and I have had many good talks to- 
gether about this and we always agree. Melody 
is melody, and the world will always like to listen 
to it. A great critic said to me the other day, 
as we were talking over these things, *'You do not 
have to learn to enjoy the perfume of a flower, and 
you should not have to learn to like good music." 

The scarcity of sopranos in Italy makes it almost 
impossible to give the dear old operas of Rossini, 
Donizetti and Verdi, that we are still lucky enough 
to hear in New York. It always amuses me 
to hear people say that these operas and 
the old Italian music have gone by, and are 
no longer liked; but it is a singular fact, if that be 
true, that when a manager is particularly desirous of 
making extra money and packing the house, he offers 
the "Traviata" or the '* Barber of Seville," and en- 

[197] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

gages some singer who has the technique and the 
light lyric voice required by these operas, who can 
charm the audience with brilliant, florid singing as 
well as reach the heart in the pathetic and more 
quiet passages. We all know that in New York no 
one fills the coffers at the Metropolitan Opera House 
quite so surely as Mme. Sembrich or Mme. Nordica. 

Mme. Nordica is, I believe, the only singer, except 
Lilli Lehmann, who has been able at the same period 
of her life to sing Wagner's Isolde and some brilliant 
role like Eleonora in the "Trovatore" or Violetta in 
the **Traviata." That Mme. Nordica fully realizes 
the value of a perfect technique underlying her great 
dramatic work, is shown by the fact that at any mo- 
ment she can take up the "Trovatore " or the "Tra- 
viata '' and give to the music all the required technique, 
combined with the wealth of her own glorious organ 
as well. It is because she can sing the **Trovatore'' 
as she does that she can sing Isolde so magnificently. 

You may say it is not artistic to consider the finan- 
cial value of a singer, but the impresario is bound to 
consider the profit and loss; the profit is invariably 
on the side of the clear, pure soprano who has tech- 
nique as well as a heart, and the loss will invariably 
be on the side of the singer who feels that no tech- 
nique is necessary, and that a certain amount of 
noise combined with a rolling of the eyes heaven- 

[198] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ward is all that is necessary to impress the public 
that she is a "temperamentar' artist. You may just 
as well say that a painter is a success, because he has 
beautiful color, though he has no ability to draw ; or 
that beautiful prose is poetry though the lines in which 
the idea is expressed have no metrical form, but cer- 
tainly no dramatic singer can make a really great 
success without vocal technique, and that is pre- 
cisely what some of the singers of to-day do not real- 
ize. But that is not altogether surprising, consider- 
ing the attitude that a few people take now-a-days, 
especially in America; they seem to have a sort of 
vague contempt for any show of pyrotechnics in a 
singer. They do not ask a pianist to play merely a 
series of magnificent chords, or a simple smooth mel- 
ody with a "soulful rendering," and they are per- 
fectly willing to listen and applaud the technique 
of a Kubelik, a Krasselt, or a Bauer, though I did 
read recently an absurd statement that the Boston 
Symphony Orchestra was ^' too perfect," technically. 
But, when a singer steps upon the platform, though 
most of her programme be made up of songs which 
appeal to the heart, these same few people smile 
with amused indulgence if she sings a florid aria from 
one of the old masters that contains brilliant runs 
and trills, quite similar to those they have recently 
applauded on the piano or violin, a few moments be- 

[199] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

fore. Why should the singer not have the same 
musical standards as other artists ? If they did, you 
would not hear the remark so frequently made, 
"Most singers are not musicians/' which is not at 
all fair or true, I believe. 1 know a singer who was 
to appear before a very brilliant New York audi- 
ence for the first time. Having been told that the 
old florid arias were considered quite gone-by, she 
had selected several simple, beautiful songs, and was 
surprised when she handed her programme to the 
manager, to hear him say, " This will never do, you 
must sing something brilliant." "But,'' she said, "I 
have been told that the audiences no longer care for 
the runs and trills." "Oh, nonsense!" he returned, 
"a few people say that, but I find at my concerts — 
and in fact, all the managers tell me the same thing — 
that the audiences never fail to enjoy the music of 
the old Italian school when it is properly done; the 
trouble is that it is so often improperly done." Of 
course, the singer who has technique and nothing 
else, is equally useless, but as long as many of the 
young singers of to-day are told that technique is 
after all not very important "if you have a soul," 
they are quite apt to work their imaginations more 
than their brains. As a matter of fact, a singer may 
have all the heart and temperament in the world, 

[ ^^^] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

but without technique she can but ill express her 
feelings, however deep they may be. 

Many people in Italy feel very badly at the deca- 
dence of song here, as they express it, and Prof. Mas- 
trigli, an honorary member of the Royal Musical 
Institute of Florence, has written a book entitled "La 
Decadenza del Canto in Italia," in which he gives 
many reasons why the singing art of the world, 
especially in Italy, is not as high as formerly. He 
laments the nervous haste alike of the pupil and 
teacher to "railroad art," and says that it is because 
many people are willing to take shrieking for sing- 
ing that there are so many fearful voices heard now- 
a-days, that fairly make your ears ring. Speaking 
of the dramatic singer, he quotes E. Garcia, "II 
canto largo si fa tanto piu facile, quanto piu com- 
pletamente Torgano si sara abituato a tutte le diffi- 
colta della esecuzione ; diremo anzi che questa pron- 
tezza dell'organo e indispensabile a chiunque voglia 
eccellere nel largo. Le voci pesanti non possono 
giungere alia perfezione in alcun genere." (E. Gar- 
cia, figlio.) "Dramatic singing is done the more 
easily, the more completely the organ has accustomed 
itself to all the difficulties of execution. We will 
say that this agility of the voice is indispensable to 
whomsoever wishes to excel in dramatic work, 

[201] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Heavy voices cannot reach perfection in any other 
way.'' The Professor has said some very nice things 
to me about my voice, and is delighted that I have 
been wilHng to devote so many years to my art. 
In one of his criticisms of my singing he spoke 
especially of my breathing. 

Prof. Mastrigli makes a great point of diaphragm 
breathing, and how many times have I heard dear 
Mme. Marchesi say: "Now-a-days people seem to 
think they can breathe as they like, anyway, any- 
where, but they will never make great artists if they 
do not breathe properly, and give great attention to 
this study." Mastrigli and I have had many de- 
lightful talks together, and I greatly enjoyed reading 
his book on Hygiene of the Voice, which all sing- 
ers would do well to read. He has written books 
on Beethoven, Modern Italian Composers — in fact, 
a dozen or more excellent musical works, as well as a 
great number of very attractive and interesting songs. 

The more I know of singing and singers, the more 
I appreciate Mme. Marchesi, and all the splendid 
precepts she teaches. '*It takes fourteen things to 
be 2i great singer J' she often says, and she is right; 
the voice is only one, and common sense comes in 
a very close second. One must study human nature 
a fond and one must live and love and suffer before 

[ 202] 



deligl 



- peop 



THE MARCHESE AND MARCHESA DE LA REJATA 
DE CASTRONE 



v-'-'- 




^/ciA^^. Jel^- /Qoy 



COPYRIGHT, 190b, BY TRYPHOSA BATES BATCHELLtR 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

one can become an artist. Someone has said that 
"every round of the ladder of art must be bathed 
with tears/* and while that is not strictly true, one 
has to experience many trying days, and it takes great 
courage to go on and up. If success comes in the 
end, there is no greater sunshine or joy, than the love 
and approval of one's fellowmen for the art for which 
one has loved and labored. What a wonderful 
couple they are, Madame and her Sicilian husband, 
the Marchese de Castrone; both about seventy in years 
and about thirty in action ! Not a concert or an opera of 
any real moment is given in Paris that they are not 
seen in one of the best boxes. Is n't it splendid to 
live all one's life so wonderfully and not degenerate 
into existing the last years? Work, hard work, is 
eminently good for everyone, I believe, and the hap- 
piest people are the workers. 

E. Garcia, too, Madame's great teacher, has just 
celebrated his one hundredth birthday in London. He 
was received at Buckingham Palace by His Majesty 
King Edward, afterwards given a banquet by the 
Laryngological Society and he received felicitations 
from numbers of scientific societies all over the 
world — Spain, Austria, Russia, etc., etc. He was a 
great friend of Rossini, and once, when Rossini was 
pressed for time, just after writing the "Barber of 

[203] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Seville/' he told Garcia he could n't stop to write a 
romance for the bass role, but if he (Garcia) wanted 
one, he could write it himself; so the romance of 
Alma viva, " lo son LindorOy' was written and first sung 
by Garcia. 

We have had the good fortune this winter to hear 
many of the new Italian operas. The first we heard 
was Francesco Cilea's new opera "Adriana Lecouv- 
reur." The criticisms as to its success and merits 
generally differ, as they are apt to, at the time of a 
first production, but I think the general consensus of 
opinion gives the opera a moderate success. Every-^ 
one admits that there are beautiful moments of mel- 
ody and charm. Krusceniski certainly gave the 
music a most sympathetic rendering, and when the 
enthusiastic audience called the composer before the 
curtain, he would only come, leading with him 
Krusceniski and Zenatello, the tenor, who had so 
ably interpreted his music. Another opera by Filiarsi^ 
entitled "Manuel Mendenzes," has been given in 
connection with Dupont's "Cabrera," and both were 
well received. Filiarsi has introduced into his score 
a beautiful intermezzo, which pleased the audience 
extremely, and was repeated. The music of the 
"Cabrera" is distinguished and lovely, and we hope to 
hear it again here and in Paris, where La Bellincioni 

[204] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

is going to sing at the Opera Comique. Giordano 
is also to have a hearing given several of his operas 
at the theatre Sarah Bernhardt, next spring, when a 
special season of Italian opera is to be inaugurated in 
Paris; so we shall hear again his "Fedora," "Siberia" 
and "Andre Chenier." Giordano's music possesses a 
fluent vein of melody, and he handles the orchestra 
with considerable skill, while a good deal of melodic 
beauty is given to the music of the singers. 

Pietro Mascagni has added fresh laurels to his 
name, too, through the great success of his opera 
"Amica," which was recently brought out at Nice; 
but nothing in modern Italian operatic music appeals 
to me so much as Puccini's "Boheme" and "Madame 
Butterfly." There is a subtle charm in this music of 
Puccini that goes straight to the heart. It is ex- 
tremely vocal and well within the reach of the purely 
lyric soprano. No one who has heard the role of 
"Mimi" sung as Sembrich or as Stehle sang it in 
Naples, can fail to appreciate its beauty. 

The symphony has found a place, too, in the music 
of modern Italy. Sgambati has written several, and 
Bustini, who has recently published a short work on 
the "Symphony in Modern Italy," has also written 
one or more. I certainly hope that the great Man- 
cinelli, who carried Bustini to South America re- 

[205] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

cently to be his alternate conductor, will take him 
to New York one day, for I think the general artis- 
tic appreciation and understanding of Maestro Bus- 
tini is unusually broad and intelligent. 

We hope to go to some of the Bach Society con- 
certs here, which are said to be excellent. 

We have also met a number of litterateurs here in 
Rome, and Sgambati presented Sabatier to me the 
other day, when the Signora had a small reception. 
He is a most interesting man, and we had a nice talk 
about Prof. Barrett Wendell, of Harvard University, 
who has been giving a series of lectures at the Sor- 
bonne in Paris. Sabatier said the Professor has made 
a very fine impression in France, and has given a 
great many new ideas to the French people about 
America, our people and their ideals. It seemed 
very nice to hear Prof. Wendell spoken of so enthu- 
siastically, and to know that he had been so much 
appreciated in France. You and I have read Saba- 
tier's works on St. Francis of Assisi, of course, but it 
is some time since I looked them over, and I mean to 
brush up a bit on them while we are here. 

We also met Bjornstjerne Bjornson, the great Nor- 
wegian poet, whose daughter we knew some time 
ago in Paris, at Mme. Marchesi's, you remember. 

I am sending you the music of the Italian Na- 

[206] 



PROFESSOR ALESSANDRO BUSTINI 



^ir^(< tl ^fcv^ l^j^^S" 







COPYRIGHT, 1906. BY TRYPHOSA BATES BATCHELLER 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

tional Hymn, thinking it might interest you to play 
over the King and Queen motive, as F. B. and I 
call it. 

What am I reading? Much less than I should of 
anything, I confess, but we have been so very busy 
seeing, that it has been difficult to find time for books. 
I did buy some of Matilde Serao, Antonio Fogaz- 
zaro and De Amicis, only to-day, and later I mean 
to get some of d'Annunzio's last things. 

Do forgive this tirade about music, but you know 
that is my life, and I knew you would n't mind a 
little discourse, just for once. I '11 be very good in 
the future and "never do so any more" as the little 
girl said. Buona notte. 



[207] 



XXVIII 

THE COURT BALL 

Rome, Italy, Tuesday, March 7, 1905 

My dear M. : 

^ S I wrote you, the Court balls were to have 
/_% taken place February 20th and March 6th, 
^ m^ but on account of the Court mourning 
it was decided to have only one Court ball this year. 
When we heard of this change of plan, we felt that 
we must ntake up our minds not to be disappointed if 
our names were not included in the list of invitations, 
because our presentation at Court here had been so re- 
cent, that we hardly had a right to expect to be in- 
cluded, when there were so many, many people that 
must necessarily be invited. We had received our invi- 
tations for the first ball, but did not feel at all sure that 
they were valid for the second, so we were very much 
pleased to read in the Popolo Romano (our morning 
paper) the announcement sent from the Palace that 
all invitations which had been received for Febru- 

[208] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ary 20th would be valid for March 6th, the date set 
for the only Court ball of the season. 

We left a little before ten and thought we were 
quite early, but when our carriage turned into the 
Via Quirinale, we found that many other people were 
before us, for the line of carriages reached as far as 
we could see in the direction of the Quirinal Palace. 
We regretted not having started earlier, but there 
was nothing to do but remember the saying we have 
learned so often to repeat, ^^ piano, piano, ci vuol pa- 
zienzaT Some of the ladies in the carriages in front 
of us got out and walked on the sidewalk to the 
Palace, but I think they gained little in time, and I 
was not willing to do that in any case. 

The square of the Quirinal had been quite cleared, 
and the arrangements for the advancing of the car- 
riages, which at first seemed very awkward and un- 
necessary, were in reality excellent, and it was the 
only way that carriages coming, as they did, from 
various directions, could be marshalled with ease and 
order in and out of the Palace Court Yard. As 
we approached from the east, we were obliged to 
make a tour of the great fountain of the Horse 
Tamers, while the carriages that came from the other 
direction entered the line leading to the Palace, 

[209] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

alternating one by one with ours, thus forming 
one short continuous Hne into the Palace, and giving 
carriages from each direction equal rights. We 
drove into the main Court Yard, but the carriage 
halted before a different door from that at which we 
had entered when we were presented to Her Majesty. 
This door opened directly before the flight of stairs 
that leads to the State apartments, and the carriages 
drove out through another driveway, so there was 
no confusion in coming and going. 

At the head of the stairs, we found ourselves in a 
very large, high room, and our invitations, which 
were engraved on pink and blue cards, the one for 
the lady and the other for the gentleman, were taken 
by the Palace functionaries, in red coats, gold lace 
and powdered hair. I was handed an elaborate dance 
order of white kid, bearing a gold monogram E. V. 
(Elena — Victor Emmanuel) on the outside, a gold 
pencil was attached by a gold chain and the whole 
affair was exquisite. The men's dance orders were 
less elaborate, but very pretty. An immense place 
was arranged for wraps, and looking about me I 
discovered hundreds of gentlemen standing about 
chatting to each other. I was the only woman in 
this immense room. I felt rather queer for a mo- 
ment, and wondered if we had gone into the wrong 

[210] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

room, but everyone seemed to look perfectly natu- 
ral, and I saw numerous ladies' wraps that had al- 
ready been put away, so I allowed myself to be guided 
with F. B. into the long corridor leading to the 
Royal ballroom and State apartments of the Quiri- 
nal Palace. 

Here and there divans and chairs had been placed, 
and groups of beautifully dressed women, and Italian 
officers in all the splendor of their full dress uni- 
forms, were chatting and nodding to their various 
friends as they passed. But we hurried on into a 
large ante-room, through which one must pass be- 
fore entering the ballroom. 

Near the entrance I discovered the pretty Coun- 
tess Leonardi, whose mother was an American, and 
who is an American herself by birth, although she 
has lived all her life in Italy. There were so many 
beautiful gowns about that I remember only that she 
looked very pretty, and that her gown was of some 
soft yellow material, but her diamonds I distinctly 
recall as being unusually large and magnificent. She 
was very kind, and told us just how and where to go 
to see the King and Queen enter the ballroom with 
their Court. There was something of a crowd at 
the door that we were to enter, but a kindly gen- 
eral of large proportions made a way for us to pass, 

[211] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and we soon found ourselves just opposite the door 
through which Their Majesties would soon come with 
their Court in attendance. There were hundreds of 
people already in the room, and all the rows of seats 
about the sides were filled almost to the point of 
crowding. The absence of black gowns was very- 
noticeable, and I was told that, while it is not a com- 
mand, it is generally understood that black gowns are 
not desired at the Court functions. An artist would 
have had a fine opportunity for all sorts and kinds of 
expectation studies, for everyone's face portrayed the 
eager expectation with which all awaited the en- 
trance of the Court. 

At ten minutes before eleven, the notes of the 
Royal march were sounded, and to its accompani- 
ment Their Majesties entered the ballroom. First 
came the Masters of Ceremony, the Marquis Vorea 
d'Olmo, the Marquis Scozia di Calliano, the Count 
Premoli, the Duke di Fragnito, the Duke Cito di 
Torrecuso, the Count Avogadro degli Azzoni, then 
immediately preceding Their Majesties came H. E. 
Count Gianotti, looking most elegant and distin- 
guished, and wearing his numerous orders and decora- 
tions. As Grand Master of Ceremonies and Prefect 
of the Palace, he led the way for Their Majesties 
into the room. The King wore the uniform of a 

[212] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

General of the Italian army, with the " Collar of the 
Annunziata," and entered the room with the Queen 
on his arm. All eyes were turned, of course, in the 
direction of the Royal pair. His Majesty is very 
distinguished-looking, but the man rarely receives 
the curious glances that a woman always gives to an- 
other of her sex, however exalted the position, and 
surely the Queen made a picture never to be forgot- 
ten. I thought her the most beautiful woman I had 
ever seen, when I was presented to her in February, 
but there are no words to adequately describe her 
dazzling beauty of last night. She was simply 
eblouissante^ and even that expressive French word is 
insufficient. She wore a beautiful gown of white 
satin, embroidered effectively with opalescent span- 
gles, with the result that her dress was very brilliant, 
yet not too much so, as many spangled dresses 
are, and the soft, opalescent colorings made the 
historic emeralds of the Royal house of Italy 
show up in all their majestic splendor. Exquisite 
Bruxelles-point lace draped her decollete, and made 
an appropriate setting for the two great emeralds, 
encircled in diamond knots, which form a 
part of the famous emerald set, and were 
her only corsage ornaments. About her neck 
was the wonderful emerald necklace (it is beyond 

[213] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

all words, really), worn with many diamonds and a 
beautiful pearl dog-collar, while in her hair she wore 
the great diadem which completes this world-re- 
nowned set, of which each stone is many times larger 
than any other emerald I have ever seen, and cer- 
tainly these jewels have never adorned a more beau- 
tiful woman. Besides all these gems, she wore about 
her neck a long diamond chain that fell loosely from 
her shoulders down below her waist line. As she 
entered the room, we all involuntarily held our 
breath, as we beheld her dazzling beauty, and later 
in the evening, when some Ambassador spoke to the 
Queen of her beautiful appearance, she smilingly 
said, " I am not beautiful, but look at my Ladies-in- 
Waiting, they are, indeed, a bower of beauty." Of 
course, the Queen was all wrong about her lovely 
self, but she was right about her ladies, for as they 
entered the ballroom after Her Majesty, we were at 
loss which one to admire most. You see, the Court 
is all young, which does not happen very often, and 
for that reason, I believe, the Court of Italy to-day 
is the most beautiful in Europe. The King led the 
Queen directly to her throne chair, which had been 
placed in the centre at one side of the room. Her 
Majesty took her seat at once, but the King stood 
talking to the different members of his household, 

[214] 



THE PRINCESS VIGGIANO 



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COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY TRt'PhOSA BATES BATCHELLER 




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^^A^^^^-^^-*^^ 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

while the Ladies-of-the-Court and the Ladies-of-the- 
Palace took their positions behind the chair of the 
Queen. There are six Ladies-of-the-Court, each of 
whom becomes a member of the Queen's household 
for two months in the year. The beautiful Coun- 
tess Bruschi, of whom I have written you before, for 
instance, lives at the Palace, or goes wherever the 
Queen may go, in the months of January and June, 
while the Duchess of Ascoli takes the months of 
February and July, and the Countess of Trinita, 
March and August. There are also six Ladies-of- 
the-Palace, but their duties are not quite as intimate, 
though they are very often with the Queen at differ- 
ent times. 

Of course these Ladies-in- Waiting were not 
chosen for their beauty, but certainly each of 
them is beautiful to an unusual degree. The 
Princess Viggiano, who, before her marriage, bore 
the historic name of BaufFrement, seemed to me 
one of the most beautiful of the ladies attending 
Her Majesty, for she has rare distinction in her 
face and bearing, as well as beauty of line and form. 
Of course, they were all ^'en grande tenue'' last even- 
ing, and their jewels were simply dazzling, so many 
and so numerous that it is hopeless to try to describe 
them. One of them wore a long chain of diamond 

[215] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

solitaires, reaching from the shoulders nearly to the 
knees, and their tiaras were most becoming, and not 
at all like the ordinary "picket fence" of diamonds 
that one sees so often on these formal court occa- 
sions. At the left of the King stood the two dis- 
tinguished women who have received from His Maj- 
esty the decoration of the "Collar of Annunziata," 
the greatest distinction that can be accorded anyone 
in Italy. 

The King spoke first with Her Excellency the 
Marchesa di Rudini, the first "Collaresse,'' as they 
say, who looked very handsome in a white gown 
trimmed with much beautiful lace, and ornamented 
with her magnificent diamonds and pearls ; and then 
after speaking to the other " Collaresse," Donna 
Elena Cairoli, he turned and talked with his Gene- 
rals, the Ambassadors, etc. Meantime, at a sign 
from Their Majesties, Count Gianotti gave the signal 
that those standing might resume their seats. After 
having watched the dancing, which had now com- 
menced, the Queen called successively the two 
"CoUaresses" to the chair beside her, and had a lit- 
tle conversation with each. She then arose, six of her 
Ladies-in -Waiting immediately following, and walked 
to where the Ambassadresses were seated at her right, 
speaking for a few moments with each of them. 

[216] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

First with Mme. Barrere, the French Ambassadress 
who sat nearest the throne, as she has been longest 
at the Court of Italy. She looked extremely well, 
dressed in white with brilliant jewels, and I shall 
have much to tell you about her and her great ability 
later on. Next came the American Ambassadress, 
who wore a becoming gown of light blue with fine 
turquoises, then the Ambassadress from Austria-Hun- 
gary, and then the wife of the British Ambassador, 
recently appointed to Rome. 

Lady Egerton is a very fine and distinguished- 
looking woman. You remember, I wrote you of 
meeting her at our Embassy, and I think I told you 
also what a wonderful pianist she is. She has invited 
me several times to the British Embassy, and has 
been kind enough to play my accompaniments when- 
ever I have sung there. She seems to admire my 
voice, and I remember to have been told that Rus- 
sians nearly always prefer the lyric soprano. In any 
case she has been very kind to me, and we go to her 
Embassy one evening next week. She is a woman 
of rare charm, and already I hear her spoken of on 
all sides with much enthusiasm, though she has been 
here so short a time. The Queen seemed to find 
her very charming also, for she talked with her quite 
a long time, and then, preceded by the Court Cham- 

[217] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

berlains, Count Bruschi and the Marchese Callabrini, 
Her Majesty made her cercle or tour of the ball- 
room. 

People, of course, made way for her to pass, and 
as she walked about the room she spoke now and 
again to two or three ladies, giving her hand and 
bowing to many. She stopped and spoke with the 
pretty Countess Sanminiatelli, whose father-in-law 
was Minister to Montenegro at the time when Queen 
Elena's marriage was arranged. By the way, I paid 
a visit to this countess, and her mother-in-law, the wife 
of the minister just referred to, is a sweet American 
woman from New Orleans. As the Queen came nearer 
to where I was standing, I forgot all about every- 
thing and everybody in my admiration for the beau- 
tiful Royal lady herself, and almost before I knew 
it, she was standing directly in front of me, had given 
me her hand, and I was making a low courtesy. 
Her Majesty talked with me first about the dancing, 
and asked me if I was fond of waltzing; as I replied in 
the affirmative, she said she hoped the rooms would 
not be too crowded for the dancers to enjoy them- 
selves. I was most careful not to introduce any new 
subject nor to infringe on Royal etiquette in any 
way, but Her Majesty asked me several questions 

[218] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

about the Industrie Femminili, and seemed very much 
pleased and interested when I told her I had planned 
to take some of the work back to America with me. 
She spoke of the book, which, as you know, she has 
given me permission to dedicate to her, and said she 
would look forward with pleasure to receiving it. I 
did not realize until she had given me her hand, and 
said good evening, that we really had been talking 
some little time, but later I became aware that Her 
Majesty had paid me a very great compliment, when 
two distinguished looking women, whom I did not 
know, spoke to me and remarked upon the unusual 
interest which Her Majesty had shown in me. An- 
other lady abruptly asked me, "Do you paint?" I 
replied it was not my custom — "No, pictures, I 
mean, I have never seen the Queen speak so long 
with anyone!" Naturally, I was much gratified at 
Her Majesty's kindness. No wonder the King 
adores her, and the Queen Mother is also very fond 
of her. 

When the Queen returned to her chair, each of 
the Ambassadors in turn came and spoke to her. 

At midnight the supper rooms were opened. At 
a little before one, the Sovereigns retired from the 
ball, and soon after many of the older people went away 

[219] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

also. R. and Count Sanminiatelli offered to take us 
through the different rooms. We met Mrs. D. and 
her daughters from Boston ; and in the Mirror Room, 
where the floral decorations were superb, we met a 
number of friends, Mrs. McGee, looking extremely- 
well in velvet and jewels, Signor V., one of the 
King's secretaries, and many others. In one of the 
supper rooms, where all sorts of good things were 
being lavishly dispensed, we met Prof. Sgambati and 
his wife talking to H. E. Mme. Ohyama, wife of 
the Minister from Japan. Sgambati was wearing all 
his decorations and orders, and Mme. Ohyama was 
in her Japanese costume, so they made a very attrac- 
tive picture. I was introduced to Her Excellency, 
and we had a pleasant chat. After we had made a 
tour of the rooms we went home. 

R. told me that the reason there were so many- 
men in the hall when we arrived, was because no sin- 
gle man is allowed to enter the ballroom until 
Their Majesties have formally opened the ball, so 
all those poor men who were waiting around when 
we entered, had come unaccompanied by ladies, and 
had to wait till the time appointed for their admis- 
sion to the ball room. It was an evening long to be 
remembered, and beside being a very interesting ex- 

[ 220] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

perience, it was for me, one of the happiest evenings 
of the winter. 

We have received an invitation from Her Majesty 
Queen Margherita, to meet her in private audi- 
ence on Wednesday, March 8th. Is n't it odd how 
Wednesday and good fortune go hand in hand almost 
invariably for me? 



[221] 



XXIX 
To E. F. D. B. 

PRESENTATION TO QUEEN MARGHERITA 

Rome, Italy, March 8, 1905 
My dear M. : 

YOU remember, I wrote you that we had 
received an invitation from her Majesty- 
Queen Margherita to meet her in private 
audience at her beautiful palace on the afternoon 
of Ash Wednesday, March 8th. Once more, you 
see, a Wednesday was good to me. I was very 
much pleased that Queen Margherita should wish to 
receive me, because she sees comparatively few of the 
foreigners who come to Rome, and I was surprised 
that she was interested to meet so young a woman as 
myself ; but, of course, I was quite delighted, as I 
have always had such an admiration for Her Majesty. 
Do you remember years ago when we were staying 
in Naples, how I always wanted to drive up and 
down the boulevard in front of the Viale Nazionale, 
where the Queen drove every afternoon ? We 
thought then that her Majesty was very charming, 

[222] 



VK-.: 



.te 



HER MAJESTY QUEEN MARGHERITA OF SAVOY 



-jMm. 




GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

as her carriage passed swiftly by ; her coachman and 
footman, in their scarlet liveries and gold lace, im- 
pressed me tremendously, and I remember we always 
remarked her peculiarly sweet smile. She is just the 
same to-day, and I cannot tell you how pleased I am to 
have had an opportunity of talking with so brilliant 
and cultured a woman, as well as so august a Sovereign. 
In the early afternoon, we drove to the Palazzo 
Margherita, formerly the Palazzo Piombino, which 
was bought for the Queen Mother after the death 
of the late King. Our appointment was at three 
o'clock, and we were received with much the same 
ceremonies as at the Quirinal Palace. At the head 
of the stairs, a similar line of footmen stood, like 
statues, only that these wore all black satin liveries, as 
the Queen is still in half-mourning. We were shown 
at once into a large, elegant drawing room, where 
the Marchesa Villamarina, who is always in waiting 
upon Queen Margherita, met us with charming cor- 
diality. She was pleased apparently that I spoke 
Italian, and asked me if I was an automobile enthu- 
siast. She herself is much interested in motoring, 
for Queen Margherita has become a great traveller 
in her fine motor car, and is always accompanied on 
her various excursions about Italy by the Marchesa 
Villamarina, of whom she is very fond. 

[223] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

A distinguished-looking officer, wearing many- 
orders, who had also been bidden to a private audi- 
ence, was waiting with his daughter. I think we 
really waited quite a little while, though the time 
passed very quickly, as I enjoyed talking to the 
Marchesa so much. At last the lady who had been 
presented just previous to our arrival entered the 
room where we were, and, after ceremonious adieux 
to the Marchesa, took her leave. 

It was now three o'clock, the time for our presenta- 
tion, and the kindly Marchesa drew aside the curtain, 
and led us into the presence of Her Majesty Queen 
Margherita. The same three courtesies were here, as 
with all Royalty, de rigeur, but nothing could be more 
charming than Her Majesty's reception of us. She 
made me sit beside her on the divan, and talked to 
me of Rome, of America, about which she has read 
a great deal, and many other interesting things. She 
told me about a charitable house to which she has 
arranged for very little children to be brought, whose 
mothers must work all day, and through Her 
Majesty's generosity and kindness nurses are pro- 
vided who may properly and satisfactorily care for 
the children. I told her that a similar effort had 
been made in Boston to help the poor Italian women 
who came to America, and this seemed to interest 

[224] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

her very much. Then we spoke of music and art, 
and altogether had a most interesting conversation. 
She reads nearly all the best of our books, as well as 
the best modern literature of France and Germany. 
She is very fond of modern music, but has a greater 
love for Mozart, Beethoven and the classics, at which 
I was, of course, delighted. With all the know- 
ledge, she is not in the least pedantic, but her many 
accomplishments and quick wit make her a most 
brilliant conversationalist. She spoke to me entirely 
in Italian, but to F. B. in English, and she said to 
him, with one of those rare smiles for which she is 
famous, " Do you realize. Sir, that few foreigners 
come to Italy who speak Italian as well as your 
wife ?'* Was n't that splendid ! 

The Queen was dressed in a very rich black satin, 
but her only ornaments were a short string of her 
world-famed pearls, and one or two clear, large moon- 
stones set in diamonds. Everybody knows about her 
pearls, how King Umberto, each birthday, gave her 
a long string, each a little longer than the one before, 
until now there is no collection of pearls in the 
world so large or so famous as those belonging to 
Queen Margherita. 

Everything about her palace was, as one might 
expect, elegant and in perfect taste. She is certainly 

[225] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

a woman of exceptional talents, a constant student, 
and a kind and generous patron of art in all its 
branches. From the time that she married Um- 
berto of Savoy, and took her place as the young 
Princess of the Royal household, she has made her- 
self beloved throughout all Italy, from Turin to Na- 
ples. As you know, she was the daughter of the 
late Duke Ferdinand of Genoa, and her mother was 
a Royal Princess, daughter of the King of Saxony. 
All Germans are so ^^ grundlich'' (thorough); and I 
think that Queen Margherita's German blood has 
helped to make her what she is acknowledged by 
all to be, one of the most cultured women in Europe. 

I told her about our Comitato of the Societa Dante 
Alighieri, in Boston, and she seemed interested to 
hear about the lecture that Prof. Ettore Pais, Di- 
rector of the National Museum at Naples, gave to 
our Circolo just before I came from home. 

She is a great student of Dante, and rarely misses 
one of the Lectures Dantis^ that are given here in the 
large Salla del Nazzareno each Sunday afternoon by 
some well known man of letters. R., kind as always, 
has taken F. B. and me to hear some of them. One 
Sunday we went a little early, and happened to see 
Her Majesty arrive. She bowed and smiled so pleas- 
antly to us as she passed up the corridor to the lec- 

[226] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ture hall, on the arm of the Marchese GuIccioli,that 
we were very glad we had come early on this par- 
ticular day. 

To-day, also. Her Majesty was very gracious, and 
gave us a long audience ; when, at last, she arose, she 
was kind enough to say, as she bade us good-bye, 
that she hoped we should return to Rome next win- 
ter. We backed out of the room, although Her 
Majesty smilingly said, "Don't trouble to back out, 
there are so many chairs in the way," but I told Her 
Majesty that as long as we had the privilege of look- 
ing at her beautiful self, it was not likely that we 
should willingly turn away. 

The Marchesa Villamarina was also most kind in 
her adieux, and especially asked us to acquaint her 
with our arrival in Rome next year, and hoped we 
would pay her a visit. 

Just as we were going out, Mme. Diie and her 
sweet daughter came in. Lilly was looking very 
pretty in a light silk, and they made me promise 
then and there to spend an evening with them this 
week. Mon. Diie has been one of Sweden's most 
distinguished diplomats, and has represented his 
King at the most brilliant courts of Europe, having 
been for several years at St. Petersburg, Berlin, Lon- 
don and Paris. He is a very clever musician, and 

[227] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

has written some most attractive songs, which his 
daughter sings delightfully. He is much pleased 
with my voice, and praised it very highly when I 
sang the other evening at the British Embassy. 
Mme. Diie, before her marriage, was a Lady-in- Wait- 
ing to the Czarina of Russia. We like them all 
immensely, and have enjoyed going to their evenings 
at home. They are so musical and cultured them- 
selves, that they naturally have about them very in- 
teresting people. 

We often coax Mr. Diie to play his singular pi- 
ano-forte composition, written for two fingers and 
intended to be played with the forefinger of each 
hand. He told us that when he was Minister to 
France, a charming old French lady, who had been 
a fine pianist, was bemoaning her fate, because she 
could no longer play. "My fingers are all useless 
with rheumatism," she exclaimed, "I have only two 
that I can use." Gallant Mr. Diie at once replied, 
"Then I will compose a piece for you, Madame, 
that can only be played with two fingers," and he 
did. It is really very quaint and pretty. He has 
been most kind to me, and only yesterday sent me a 
collection of songs, with a pretty dedication on the 
cover. Just think! He ordered them all the way 
from Stockholm. 

[228] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

When we left the palace of the Queen Mother, 
we drove directly to the Grand Hotel, where Donna 
Bice Tittoni had asked us to come to a sale of laces 
and embroideries made by the lace schools, under the 
patronage and protection of a society of Italian 
ladies recently formed here in Rome, and called the 
Industrie Femminili. Donna Bice Tittoni is at the 
head of the Roman committee, and was looking 
very stunning this afternoon, in a blue velvet gown, 
with touches of ermine, and a most becoming black 
hat. She presented me to Countess Suardi, one of 
the patronesses of the organization, and to Countess 
Cora Brazza, a charming New Orleans woman, to 
whom is due the credit of making one of the first 
moves of this society. I do not know enough yet 
about it to write you in detail, but the things I 
bought are perfectly beautiful, and I am anxious to 
learn more about how and where they are made. 
All the ladies were very cordial, and many of them 
asked me to come and see them, so I presume later 
on I shall be able to tell you more intelligently 
about the work. 

During the afternoon the Countess Taverna came 
in, looking handsome in black velvet, with a large 
black velvet hat, that was very effective on her soft 
white hair. She is not old at all, but her hair has 

[229] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

been white since she was a young girl of twenty, 
and it surely is most becoming. I took a special in- 
terest in the laces that were made at her school, 
first, because they are really beautiful and unusual, 
and then, because I had such an admiration for the 
lovely Countess herself, to whom I am very much 
drawn. She has invited us to come to her Lenten 
receptions, and as they are said to be quite as elegant 
as any here in Rome, we feel we are specially 
privileged. I saw a beautiful piece of lace that 
I wanted, and asked the price of a lady, who 
was presented to me as Donna Bianca Capranica del 
Grillo, the daughter of Adelaide Ristori. Such a 
charming personality! Donna Bianca is most de- 
voted to her famous mother, and was nice enough to . 
ask me to call on the great Marchesa. I am over- 
joyed at the prospect of meeting the famous Ristori 
whom you have told me so much about. The ladies 
invited me to have tea with them, and I enjoyed the 
afternoon very much. Now my room is strewn 
with bundles, as the result of my purchases at the 
sale, though I was obliged to leave behind some of 
the loveliest sofa pillows I have ever seen, because I 
knew they simply would not go into my trunks, 
which are already rather crowded; but I tried to buy 
something from each of the schools, so that you may 

[230] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

have a better idea of the various kinds of work that 
are done in the different parts of Italy, as I know 
you are always so interested in all that pertains to 
women's work. 

F. B. goes on his daily pilgrimage to-morrow to 
the Vatican, where he is making a special study of 
the Raphael stanze. I mean to go once or twice 
myself in the afternoon, but I do not allow anything 
to interfere with my musical mornings. I sing for 
an hour, with rests between, and then I study new 
music without singing, till lunch time. I have be- 
come much interested in the old Italian songs of the 
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and I think you 
will be pleased with some that I shall sing for you 
when I return home. 

I am a little tired, as we have had a rather event- 
ful and exciting day so I shall say good-night. 



[231] 



XXX 

To E. F. D. B. 

THE ROMAN LENT 

Rome, Italy, March 9, 1905 

Dear M, : 

I HAD expected that in a city where His Holi- 
ness the Pope dwells, Lent would be most 
rigorously observed, and I had made up my 
mind that when the carnival gayeties were over, I 
must lead a quiet existence with my musical studies 
and occasional visits to my friends. But anyone 
who has lived in Rome knows that Lent is one of 
the most enjoyable, if not really gay seasons of the 
year. The balls, to be sure, are over and there is no 
dancing, but instead, the Roman matrons open the 
doors of their great palaces in the most hospitable way, 
and invite their friends to a series of what might be 
called Lenten evenings. 

You remember I wrote you that the Countess 
Taverna had invited us to come to her Lenten 
receptions, which are the first to begin after Ash 
Wednesday, as she receives on Thursdays. Accord- 

[232] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ingly, about half-past ten, we drove away from the 
hotel, down the Via del Tritone, on and on, leaving 
the new part of Rome altogether. The carriage 
turned into little by-ways and side streets, where only 
now and then a dim light flickered, and when at last 
the carriage passed through the little old Via Panico, 
and drove up the steep ascent, covered by the great 
stone portico, into the large court yard of the 
Palazzo Taverna, I said to F. B., "We have surely 
driven back to the middle ages." But my statement 
was quickly contradicted when we entered the long 
series of drawing rooms, which one might almost 
call the state apartments of the Countess. Many 
people had arrived before us, and at first I could not 
find the hostess, as there is no formal '^receiving"; 
but one of the ladies in the first room through which 
we passed, told me that the Countess was in the next 
room, and we had not crossed the threshold, before 
she came to greet us. " How charming of you to 
come,'' she said smilingly, and she at once presented 
us to her husband, the Count, who is a man of great 
wealth and position, and a Senator in the parliameut 
of Italy. To F. B.'s delight, he spoke English 
fluently, and the two were soon deep in politics, while 
the charming Countess introduced me to a great 
many people, and spared no pains to make my even- 

[233] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ing most delightful and agreeable, I had rather 
dreaded to go, as I feared I might not know many 
people, but my fears were soon dispelled by the 
thoughtfulness and courtesy of the Countess. I 
happened to wear an Irish lace dress, and the Coun- 
tess was much interested in the pattern of it, for she 
intends having the little girls in her school taught 
to make the Irish lace as well as the beautiful filet, 
about which I have written you. I have never seen 
anywhere a more charming hostess than the Countess 
Taverna. She makes no effort in receiving, but she 
is ever mindful of the happiness of each and every 
one of her guests. She always seems to introduce the 
right people to one another, and has that rare gift 
of saying the right thing to everybody. She is one 
of the best proofs of your favorite saying, *' Blood will 
tell,'' for she belongs to the illustrious family of the 
Buoncompagni-Ludovisi, and before her marriage 
was the Princess Piombino. 

Both branches of the family come from Bologna, 
and they have given two Popes to the Vatican ; Ugo 
Buoncompagni, a learned doctor of the University 
of Bologna (and the instructor of such men as Ales- 
sandro Farnese and St. Charles Borromeo), who be- 
came Pope Gregory XIII in 1572. It was he 
who revised the calendar by striking out leap year at 

[234] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the close of each century except the fourth. This 
Buoncompagni Pope was thoroughly competent to 
administer the affairs of the great position, both judi- 
cially and politically. He was a very kindly person, 
but he abhorred the thought of any one trying to 
arrogate an influence over him as the cardinals so 
often used to do. He was a great lover of splendor 
and magnificence, and spent enormous sums on his 
Papal Court, though he also did much to spread the 
growth of the Church through missionaries. He 
was indirectly connected with the massacre of St. 
Bartholomew, and was always in constant fear of 
war with the Turks and the heretics. Gregory 
XV belonged to the other branch of the family of 
Ludovisi, the estates and titles of which came into 
the Buoncompagni family through marriage. Ales- 
sandro Ludovisi also came from Bologna, and was 
made Pope under the name of Gregory XV in 1623. 
To him is due the founding of the College of the 
Propaganda Fide, an establishment for the propa- 
gation of the Roman Catholic Faith, where pu- 
pils of different nationalities are educated as mission- 
aries. In an old record of the election of the Popes, 
I read, '* In the election of Gregory XV the op- 
eration of the Holy Spirit was made manifest, for 
Borghese, who had the command of six more votes 

[235] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

than were required to make the Pope at his own 
pleasure, had resolved to have Campori elected, but 
three of his creatures dissenting, and other obstacles 
afterwards arising, he was induced to nominate his 
creature, Ludovisi, but more by the instigation of 
others than by his own inclination." Gregory 
XV was a protector of the Capuchins, and inclined 
also to be rather favorable to the Jesuits, though as 
the account runs, " He took recourse to the Jesuit 
Fathers with a wary confidence." 

One of the Countess's brothers is Prince Piom- 
bino, another Prince Venosa, and another Prince 
Luigi Buoncompagni, while her sister, the Princess 
Pallavicini is one of the most distinguished grandes 
dames of Italy. 

The Countess, her sister-in-law, the Princess Ve- 
nosa, and her sister just mentioned, are both Ladies- 
in-Waiting to Her Majesty, Queen Margherita. 
Because she is patrician, because she is beautiful, cul- 
tured and rich, she is simplicity itself in her bearing 
and manners. 

These receptions are distinctly a Roman institu- 
tion ; the young people usually all gather in one 
room, and have general good times together, play- 
ing games or just chatting in groups. Many of the 
men also gather in groups and discuss the affairs of 

[236] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the day, while the ladies, all in full evening dress and 
magnificent jewels, move about from one room to 
another, talking to their various friends ; and with 
the elegant and richly furnished rooms as a back- 
ground, the whole scene is very effective. Usually 
these receptions are preceded by a dinner which the 
hostess gives to her more intimate friends, and people 
are coming and going all the evening. The Countess, 
knowing that I was a comparative stranger, took me 
all about, showed me her beautiful Giulio Romano 
pictures, and told me how she had bought this fa- 
mous palace from a member of the Orsini family 
some ten or fifteen years ago. 

How can I tell you of all the people I have met 
these last few months, many of whom I already feel 
as if I knew quite well, so exceptionally kind and 
hospitable have these Roman ladies been to me. 
Last night I had a long talk with the Marchesa Cap- 
pelli, a niece of the famous Baron Hirsch. She 
speaks English, French and German, and I do not 
know how many more languages, all with perfect 
ease, and is devoted to music. She lives in the great 
Torlonia palace, and I have promised to sing at her 
reception next Wednesday. 

Scarcely an American did we see, though lovely 
Mrs. Thomas McKean, looking as if she had stepped 

[237] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

from some old Master-s canvas, was there with her 
husband, and I had a few moments' pleasant talk with 
her. Had I not known who she was, I might have 
thought her an Italian, her hair is so black and her 
eyes so dark and brilliant, quite after the Sicilian 
type. She dresses exquisitely in colors and gowns 
that set off her beauty to great advantage, and she has 
been greatly admired here during the winter. The 
only other American whom we met was Miss Broad- 
wood, who has lived with her family in Italy so 
long, that she is practically an Italian, and whose 
beautiful sister has married into the Ruspoli family. 

Among the men, the tall straight figure of the 
Duke of Sermoneta was quite conspicuous, and among 
the younger women, the Duchess Visconti di Mo- 
drone carried off the honors for grace and beauty. 
You will say that the word "beauty'' pervades my 
letters, but my dear, the word "beauty" pervades all 
Italy, and it is especially applicable to most of the 
Italian women, so if I describe things as they are, I 
must tell you that they are beautiful, or exquisite, or 
lovely, until the dictionary invents more words to ex- 
press the same idea. 

The Countess presented me to Her Highness, the 
Princess Malcolm Khan, wife of the Minister from 
Persia to the Quirinal, who was orientally resplen- 

[238] 



THE PRINCESS D'ANTUNI 



L- --^ 



It^ (/bh?rt 




COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY TRYPHOSA BATES BATCHELLER 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

dent in black velvet and many diamonds. Another 
most distinguished woman present, was the Countess 
della Somaglia, who, before her marriage, was one 
of the Doria Princesses, and who also has delightful 
Lenten evenings at home; there were many, many 
others that I cannot take the time to write you 
about. 

Before we knew it, it was after twelve o'clock, 
and people began to take their leave. The Countess 
bade us good-night, only after making us promise 
that we would come again next week, and I assure 
you it was not a difficult promise to make, for we 
had spent such a very pleasant evening. 

Another one of the very fine palaces is that of the 
Del Drago family, presided over by the dainty Prin- 
cess d'Antuni, whose Lenten receptions are very bril- 
liant and animated, like the hostess. The main hall 
or gallery of the palace is very long and beautifully 
decorated with frescoes by Zucchero. After I fin- 
ished singing the other evening at one of these recep- 
tions, the Princess took me all about, showing me 
her famous paintings by Murillo, Guido Reni, and 
numerous other great masters. The Princess before 
her marriage had the pretty name of Elika Potenzi- 
ani, the family came from Bologna and her title was 

[239] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Princess San Mauro. She reminds one of a dainty 
bit of Dresden china, with her very light hair, blue 
eyes and exquisite pink and white coloring. People 
often seem surprised that Italians do not all have 
black hair and dark eyes, but as a matter of fact, 
there are a great many blondes. 

In the dining room of this Palazzo del Drago, 
there is as fine a fire-place as I remember to have 
seen in any of the chateaux in Touraine ; the buffet 
was very elaborate and the table set with gold plate. 
It was so interesting to me to see this old feudal pal- 
ace, with its high ceiling, magnificent fire-places and 
many other things, which spoke of a time long gone 
by, perfectly lighted in the most modern and effec- 
tive way with electricity. The people also who were 
moving about in these grand old rooms were dressed 
in the very latest Paris fashion, but I felt that if I 
rubbed my eyes and looked again more closely, I 
should see the stiff white ruffs, and the puffed sleeves 
of the costumes of the day to which the palaces be- 
longed. 

The Princess is very fond of music, and showed 
her appreciation of my singing by taking special 
pains to have me meet a great many of her friends ; 
later in the evening she took me into her own bou- 
doir, where she showed me her most extensive musical 

[240] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

library. She is very young and beautiful, but with it all 
very accomplished, as so many of the fashionable Italian 
women seem to be. She speaks four or five languages 
with perfect fluency, and while her gowns are 
always perfect and she is very fond of dancing (her 
balls are famous), she can talk most interestingly 
with any one on art, history, literature or politics, as 
the case may be. It is a pleasant and striking feature 
of the society here in Rome, that the women are so 
extremely well educated. Of course, they have 
many advantages in Rome that are not easily had else- 
where, for all the world comes here sooner or later, 
and the society is most cosmopolitan, giving ample 
opportunity for practice in various languages. 
Naturally, they know art, because the great masters, 
whom we study about at home, have spent much of 
their lives in decorating the palaces in which these 
women have been brought up. They know history, 
for their families have made it, and they, one and 
all, have a charm of manner that I think is peculiar 
to the Italian woman. 

The American women who have married in Italy 
have also made themselves very much beloved, and 
contrary to the general belief, many of them have been 
married not for their money, but for their personal 
charm and sweetness of character. One instance I 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

know of especially, where an American girl, who 
had not a penny of dot, married one of the richest 
Italian nobles in Rome, and now presides most grace- 
fully over two or three palaces and castles. 

So far as I know, the marriages of our American 
girls with Italian noblemen have been, for the most 
part, very happy, and it is generally conceded that the 
Italians make excellent husbands and fathers. 

We went, the other evening to the lovely 
palace of the Princess Venosa, of whom I have 
written you before. Her receptions are exclusive 
and quiet, but very delightful, and her drawing 
rooms are invariably decorated with wonderful 
flowers, sent from her villa at Albano. I have never 
in all my life seen such carnations as filled the vases 
on the table at the Princess's reception the other 
evening. Mr. Lawson's " glorious pink '' would 
seem tiny beside these wonderful Venosa carnations 
that seemed to be in all colors and all shades. All 
about were the largest camellia plants I have ever seen, 
reaching to the high ceilings and covered with 
blossoms, — in fact, all the flowers were gigantic of 
their kind, and I was told that the Venosa green- 
house carries off* most of the prizes at the horticul- 
tural shows each year. 

[242] 



IS most PT 



T- A 111 e' 



THE MARCHESE CAPPELLI 




COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY TRYPHOS* BATES BATCHELLER 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Colonel and Mrs. Lamb, who, by the way, is a 
very attractive English woman, have also had some 
charming afternoons at home, and their apartment 
in the Piazza delFIndipendenza is effectively decorated 
with many tiger skins, trophies of the ColoneFs 
hunting during his service in India. At present the 
Colonel is the British Military Attache here in 
Rome. 

The Princess Poggio Suasa, nee Curtis, of New 
York, has a very pretty apartment just across the 
street from us ; we have enjoyed her evenings at 
home extremely, for she is much liked, and all the 
world goes to her Friday evenings. Her charming 
sister, the Marquise de Talleyrand, is here now with 
the Princess. She is a great traveler and one hears of 
her sometimes at her dear Chatsworth Club, then in 
New York, but she usually spends part of the winter 
in Rome, though directly you reach Paris in the 
spring, you are sure to see her in one of the best 
boxes at the opera. Somewhere in her trunks she 
has tucked away the "fairy seven-league boots," I 
am sure, — yet she is always so animated and gay 
that one cannot think of her as ever being tired. 



[243] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

The Marchesa Cappelli receives on Wednesdays in 
the elegant Torlonia palace, and all Rome passes 
through her lovely drawing-rooms between three 
and seven. The Marchesa is one of the most popular 
women in Rome, and her friends are legion. I 
enjoyed singing for her immensely, for she had 
arranged everything so well, and afterward I was 
presented to His Eminence, Cardinal Mathieu, 
who had said to his hostess, "I wish to meet the 
nightingale.'' He is a very cultured Frenchman, 
fond of music and society, and goes about a great 
deal. The long music room of the Marchesa is 
hung with beautifully embroidered satin draperies, 
and when I exclaimed to her about them, she smil- 
ingly said, *' Oh ! I embroidered them all myself! " 
I asked her when she ever found the time, going 
about as she does to everything, but she laughed and 
said, " One always can find time for things one likes 
to do, and, of course, the Roman season does not 
begin until December or January.'' The other day 
at one of these afternoon receptions, a woman was 
lamenting that she had no time to see anything of her 
friends, because she was so busy rushing about from 
one engagement to another, and yet, she said, " In 
October, when we all have nothing to do but arrange 
our houses, we are each more cross than the other if 

[244] 



^RU^SLhM aHT 



THE MARCHESA CAPPELLI 




I 



'\ 



li 



t'-jl 



COPYRIGHT, 190b, BY TRYPHOSA BATES BATCHELLfcR 



GLIMPSES Of ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

anyone tries to visit us or interrupt the winter instal- 
lation of our houses. If I should go to see anyone 
in October, I dare say they would receive me, but 
they would be very annoyed, and I presume I should 
feel the same." 

At one of the Marchesa Cappelli's receptions I 
met the sister of His Excellency Signor Tittoni, the 
Marchesa Berardi, who is chaperoning her two 
pretty daughters everywhere this winter. She is 
handsome like her brother, and looks very much like 
him. 

One of the distinguished women, whom we see 
everywhere, is Her Highness the Princess Ratibohr 
de Corvey, who has never left the continent, yet 
speaks English as well as you or I. Many of these 
women are brought up by English governesses and 
learn to speak English before their own tongue. 

There are many more things I want to write you, 
but it is very late, so good night — for this time. 



[245] 



XXXI 

To C. R. 

Rome, Italy, March lo, 1905 
My dear C. : 

WE have been so very busy, and have been 
going about such a lot, that I really have 
not had time to write. Mrs. M. came in 
the other afternoon, and said we were getting much 
too frivolous ; that we were not devoting nearly as 
much time as we should to visiting and studying the 
wonders of Rome. As a matter of fact, I suppose 
she is perfectly right, but when alluring invitations 
come from these fascinating Italian ladies, I cannot 
make up my mind to decline, wonders or no won- 
ders. Rome has been here quite a while, but one 
never knows how long these lovely people will be 
here with their villas and castles calling them away 
every now and then to their feudal glory in the 
country. 

Anyhow to-day, thanks to Mrs. Mozley, we have 
been properly serious and have seen many interesting 

[246] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

things in her enthusiastic company. We drove first 
to the American Cemetery, which is very near the 
Porta San Paolo. In 1825 this land was set apart 
for the burial of strangers, and a little chapel in Ro- 
manesque style was erected in 1898, at the west end 
of the cemetery. Many distinguished men and wo- 
men, lovers of dear Italia, have been buried here, and 
while the place is called the " English and American 
Cemetery," it is too near the most cosmopolitan city 
in the world, not to be, in reality, cosmopolitan also. 
It is a very restful spot, from which one has lovely 
views, and as I stood under the lofty cypress trees 
that shade the place, I could quite understand Shel- 
ley's writing of the old cemetery just adjoining : *' It 
might make one in love with death, to think 
one should be buried in so sweet a place.'' Poor 
Shelley's ashes are buried here, though his heart (the 
only part of his body not consumed by flames, when 
his remains were burned in the Bay of Spezia), is at 
Boscombe, England. John Keats, too, is buried here, 
and on his tomb one reads the pathetic line written 
by the poet himself, and placed on his grave-stone at 
his request : " Here lies one whose name was writ 
in water." John Gibson, the English sculptor, who 
died in Rome, in 1866, is also buried here. We 
pass his house in the Via Babuino, mornings, as we 

[247] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

walk down into the Piazza di Spagna. Goethe's 
son, too, lies here, and many others of many nations. 
Lovers of art all over the world come to great Rome 
to enjoy and study its treasures, and it seems only fit- 
ting that those whose life's thread is cut in this 
adored land, may find a suitable resting place to- 
gether, near the city in which they have loved and 
labored. 

Mr. Waldo Story has recently sculptured a lovely 
monument in memory of his wife who is buried here. 
It represents an angel kneeling at an altar in the atti- 
tude of weeping. The Genius of Grief, it is called, 
most appropriately, and Mrs. M. gave me one of the 
photographs that she has had especially taken of the 
monument, as there are none for sale. 

When we came away we walked across the old 
cemetery to the Pyramid of Caius Caestus Epulo, who 
died 1 2 years B.C. He was quite a personage, ac- 
cording to the inscription on the sides of the great 
tomb, a prastor, tribune of the people, etc., etc. We 
were anxious to enter the vault, so, after some per- 
suasion, the workmen, who were making some slight 
restorations, consented, and with the aid of torches, 
we obtained a very fair view of the old frescoes in 
the little vaulted room about twenty feet long in the 
centre of the great Pyramid. In the middle ages, 

[248] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

this Pyramid was believed to be the tomb of Remus : 
and that reminds me, the other day when we went 
over to the Forum to brush up our memory a little 
(I 'm afraid it needed a good deal of renovating, there 
is so much in the Forum to remember and mem- 
ories are so elusive at times), we did actually see the 
real tomb of Romulus, or at least, what the archae- 
ologists believe to be his tomb. The old classic 
writers refer to certain stones in the Forum, desig- 
nated as the " niger lapis," which were supposed to 
mark an unlucky spot, because the Romans were 
thus reminded of the tomb of the founder of their 
city ; and, according to the general belief, Romulus 
lay buried deep down under those black stones. 
Signor Boni, the indefatigable archaeologist, who has 
literally dug up so much important knowledge in 
recent years, discovered, first, the " niger lapis,'' and 
then decided to investigate the supposed place of 
burial of Romulus. In the most skilful way, he has 
excavated around and under the black stones with- 
out displacing them at all, and lo and behold ! he 
has found the most curious cone of yellowish tufa, 
and behind this, a tufa cippus in the shape of a trun- 
cated quadrangular pyramid. On the four faces this 
cippus bears an inscription in Greco-Archaic letters, 
the like of which has never been seen, and which as 

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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

yet no one has been able to decipher. All around 
have been found ashes, coals, bones of bulls and wild 
boars, that were brought there as votive offerings 
probably. Some of the bucchero vases that were 
used by the ancients for their tombs, and some little 
archaic brown statues in the Phoenician style, have 
also been discovered. Nobody really knows why all 
these things were put there, though I believe there 
is no question that they belong to the seventh cen- 
tury before Christ. 

A lighted torch enabled us to see the markings 
more clearly and they are certainly very curious. 
Dear me ! If we keep on we shall prove true all 
the fables of the olden times. Now that Dr. Schlie- 
mann has dug up Troy, and Signor Boni unearthed 
the tomb of Romulus, perhaps somebody will some 
day find Aladdin's Lamp. 

But retournons aux moutons. Not content with 
all these interesting things, Mrs. M. set off in 
another direction and calmly announced to her 
courier that she wished to go over the house of 
Beatrice Cenci. ^' Non e possibile, Signora,'' ("It is 
not possible"), he replied, "Az casa non e aperta al 
pubblico'' ("the house is not open to the public"). 
With a queer little determined smile, Mrs. M. closed 
the door of the carriage and repeated, " I wish to go 

[250] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

to the house of Beatrice Cenci/' and the courier 
meekly mounted the box, and told the driver to go 
to the Palazzo Cenci-Bolognetti, which is situated 
in the Ghetto or Jewish quarter, near the Piazza 
Tartaruga. 

On the way we talked over the story of poor, un- 
happy Beatrice, whose father was so wicked and 
cruel to her, that after struggling in vain to escape 
his indignities, she finally murdered him, with the 
help of her brother and step-mother. The Pope, 
Clement VIII, knowing the extenuating circum- 
stances, said he would pardon the unfortunate girl, 
but another patricide was reported to him from an 
adjacent town, and he felt he must make an example; 
so poor Beatrice was executed with her two accom- 
plices, September iith, 1599, in front of Castel 
Sant' Angelo. We saw the gloomy dungeon where 
she was confined when we went over the Castello a 
few mornings ago, and near it was another where 
the celebrated goldsmith Benvenuto Cellini, who 
was such a valiant soldier, was also imprisoned. The 
artist, Guido Reni, is said to have been deeply in 
love with the young and beautiful Beatrice, and you 
remember his lovely portrait of her. As we are so 
near, we ran into the Gallery of the Barberini Palace 
to have a look at it yesterday, and saw also the one 

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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

of the step-mother by Gaetano. Beatrice certainly 
was lovely, but recent accounts take all the romance 
out of the story, and make her out quite a dreadful 
person. 

All admission to the Palazzo Cenci was, as we ex- 
pected, denied us, but Mrs. M., who was most per- 
sistent and persuasive, finally opened the doors with a 
little silver magic, and an old peasant woman call- 
ing, ^^VengUy venga (Come, come)," at every turn, 
showed us all about the house. It is an enormous 
old palace, cold and gloomy, and its feudal vastness 
seems a fitting place for the scene of such a fearful 
tragedy. We were shown the room where poor 
Beatrice lived, and her portrait forms part of the 
really fine frescoes on the wall, which to-day were 
singularly hung in the Swedish colors, as the room 
is used now for a Swedish club; the Cenci family, 
though still prominent in Rome, do not occupy this 
part of the palace now. If I remember correctly, 
one of the Lorrillard-Spencers of New York mar- 
ried a Cenci here. 

The old peasant woman seemed quite delighted at 
our interest, and insisted on the other servants letting 
us look into the little room where Beatrice was con- 
fined after her crime, before she was taken to the 
dungeons in Castel Sant' Angelo; it was only as 

[252] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

large as a closet, but it was made to serve as a family 
kitchen, and amidst the pots and kettles hanging on 
the wall, we discovered as a sort of frieze a half 
broken bas-relief of fruits and flowers that seemed 
singularly appropriate, considering the present con- 
ditions and use of the room. 

The archaeologists tell us that the Cenci palace is 
built on the substructions of the theatre of Balbus, 
erected by L. Cornelius Balbus as a compliment to 
the Emperor Augustus, in 13 B. C, and since it was 
first built it has never been enlarged. What a city, 
or rather, layer of cities is the Rome of to-day ! It 
has been said, that every period of civilization has 
left its mark in some way here, from the open, luxuri- 
ous buildings of the intelligent, courageous Romans 
of pagan times, to the gloomy isolated fortresses of 
the feudal lords of the medieval days. 

On our way home we stopped at the Pantheon. 
This wonderful building was built by Agrippa, the 
son-in-law of Augustus, in 27 B. C, and was pri- 
marily intended as the sudatorium or sweating room 
of the great thermae, or baths, with which it is con- 
nected. It is one of the grandest and most perfect 
productions of what is specifically called Roman 
architecture. It was so imposing after its comple- 
tion, that the Romans felt, evidently, that this glori- 

[253] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ous dome was more fitted for a temple for the gods 
than for man, and it was afterwards dedicated to Jupi- 
ter the Avenger. PHny speaks of the Pantheon as 
**some of the finest works the world has ever be- 
held — the roofing of the Pantheon of Jupiter Ultor 
that was built by Agrippa." The building was re- 
paired by Septimius Severus and Caracalla, and the 
statue of Jupiter, that was formerly in this temple, is 
now in the Hall of Busts in the Vatican museum; it 
is a copy of the famous Jupiter by Phidias. Of 
course the building has undergone many changes, 
and one has no idea, from the aspect of the Greek 
portico in front, of the wondrous structure behind, 
which is generally considered to be one of the great- 
est triumphs of the human mind over matter in con- 
nection with the law of gravity. Conflagrations, 
earthquakes, revolutions (and Rome has seen one 
hundred and fifty of them), even Time, have striven 
in vain to destroy this wonderful and unique struc- 
ture. 

As one enters the circular interior, the light eflTects 
produced by the great aperture in the centre of the 
dome — which is thirty feet in diameter — are so 
beautiful that many people in olden times believed 
that the temple derived its name of Pantheon from 

[254] 



Ph 
I— I 

o 

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O 

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p.. 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

its resemblance to the vaulted dome of heaven. 
Fluted columns of giallo antico (antique yellow 
marble) support the architrave, and it is interesting 
to see how successfully the pavonnazetto has been 
made to imitate the giallo antico. We can appreci- 
ate here how cleverly the Greeks were able to tint 
their marble without concealing the beauty and tex- 
ture of the noble material itself. 

In 609 A. D., Pope Boniface IV dedicated 
the Pantheon as a Christian church to all the mar- 
tyrs, with the name of Sancta Maria ad Martyres, 
and at that time twenty-eight wagon loads of the 
bones of martyrs were brought here from the Cata- 
combs. The beautiful bronze-gilt tiles of the roof 
were ruthlessly carried off to Constantinople by Em- 
peror Constantine II, and the magnificent bronze 
cornice that encircles the aperture of the dome is 
the only part of the once magnificent bronze deco- 
rations of the interior of the building. You have 
heard the saying of Pasquino, " ^od nonfecerunt bar- 
bariyfecerunt BarberinV (**What the barbarians did 
not, the Barberini have done"), and in 1632 Pope 
Urban VIII, one of the Barberini family, had the 
audacity to carry off the brazen tubes on which the 
roof rested, as well as other ancient bronze relics, 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and had them melted up and made into columns for 
the canopy of the high altar at St. Peter's, and can- 
non for the fortress of Sant' Angelo. 

Originally, the color effect of the marbles of the 
floor must have been very beautiful, though the 
sunken bases of the columns show that the original 
mosaic has been changed and raised in the course of 
time, but even now the color scheme is very effec- 
tive, while due provision for the drainage of the 
water, which naturally must enter from the aper- 
ture at the top, is made without in any way injuring 
the effect of the pavement. 

We were anxious to see something more of the 
baths of Agrippa, and as we clambered up the stone 
stairs leading from one side of the church, that we 
might get a better idea of the ruins, we came across, 
on a sort of landing shut in by shaky doors, the 
queerest old man acting as guard and guide to this 
part of the building. It was an extremely cold day — 
we were all tightly wrapped in our furs — but this 
old man sat quietly at a table working away with 
numerous cleverly arranged threads pinned on to a 
cushion before him and which he tied in regular and 
irregular knots. If you will believe it, all that he 
had to keep him warm was a small brazier of hot 
ashes, placed beside him ; I cannot understand how 

[256] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

he was able to endure the cold. By tying and un- 
tying the threads in knots, he made the prettiest 
book-marks in very even patterns, with a patience that 
passed all understanding. I asked him where he had 
learned to make these pretty things, and he told me 
that when quite a little boy, an old aunt, who lived 
far away in a small town in the mountains, had 
taught him the work he was then doing. " In my 
old age, what I learned so long ago is my only 
means of support,'' he said. I bought one of his 
pieces of work that he said had taken him a week to 
make, and felt almost ashamed when I paid him his 
price of five francs. He told me that Queen Mar- 
gherita had bought a great deal from him, and he 
seemed very grateful and appreciative of Her Maj- 
esty's kindness. We were shown all about the ruins, 
which are most interesting, although one gains a 
very imperfect idea of the baths, as so many of them 
are built into houses that the original structure can- 
not be altogether determined. But parts of the 
lovely frieze, ornamented with tridents, dolphins and 
other things suggestive of water and baths, have been 
skilfully replaced in their original position. 

Our old guide showed us also the little private 
chapel where the Queen Mother and other members 
of the Royal family come to hear mass privately. It 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

is here that King Victor Emmanuel II and the late 
King Umberto I are buried. Early in January of 
each year there is held a great memorial service in 
the Pantheon, which is attended by Queen Marghe- 
rita. Their Majesties, the King and Queen, all the 
Royal household, the diplomatic corps and the " Col- 
lars of the Annunziata." We saw the place where 
a beautiful monument is being erected to the late 
King, and we were, of course, interested in Raphael's 
Tomb, which bears the graceful epigram composed 
by Cardinal Bembo: 

"Ille hie est Raphael, timuit quo sospite vinci 
Rerum magna parens, et moriente mori." 

The poet Pope has translated this as follows: 

"Living, great Nature feared he might outvie 
Her works ; and, dying, fears herself to die." 

On the altar at the left is the statue of the silver 
Madonna that is supposed to have wonderful cura- 
tive powers. It was executed by Lorenzetto in ac- 
cordance with Raphael's last will, and above the 
niche to the right of the altar is an epitaph, marking 
the burial place of Maria Bibbiena, Raphael's be- 
loved, whom he made so famous in his paintings. It 
is here also that Ann. Carracci, Taddeo Zucchero, and 

[258] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

other famous men in the world of art are buried. Alto- 
gether, I think it is quite the most interesting place 
in Rome, for the Past and the Present seem to meet 
here and clasp hands, and the great Past seems to 
promise a great Future to the young united Italy of 
to-day. Certainly more valiant heroes and more 
ardent patriots cannot be found in the annals of old 
Rome than Victor Emmanuel II (" // Re Galan- 
tuomo'') and Umberto L It was to this edifice, once 
a pagan temple, that the bones of the Christian mar- 
tyrs were brought to consecrate the Christian church; 
and it seems probable that at a time, now not far dis- 
tant, the Pope and the King may meet here in com- 
plete reconciliation. Certain it is that the Blacks 
are no longer so bitterly opposed to the young King 
and his rule as formerly, and I know one young man, 
who bears a famous name, who tells you with pride 
that two of his uncles belong to the College of Car- 
dinals, yet, in the same breath, tells you that he him- 
self is secretary in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs for 
His Majesty, the King. During the old days of the 
bitter strife between the Pope and the State, no per- 
son of White politics was ever seen at a party given 
by one of the Blacks and nothing could induce a 
member of a distinguished Black house to enter the 
doors of one of the King's adherents. But the old 

[259] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

days are passing away and only the old ruined castles 
in the mountains are left of the bitter suspicions of 
the feudal days, while the hatred of Guelfs for Ghib- 
bellines is fast becoming a memory. 

The resources of Italy are so great that, if the 
Italians can only follow dear old Benjamin Franklin, 
'^and all hang together," they are bound to make a 
great and prosperous nation, for they have as a heri- 
tage one of the most glorious countries on the earth. 



[260] 



XXXII 

To E. F. D. B. 

Rome, Italy, March ii, 1905 

My dear M.: 

I hope you received my cable sending you my 
best birthday wishes. Best love, dear, always. 
I wish I could fly over seas and have a good 
birthday frolic with you. 

Yesterday afternoon we took a long drive out by 
the barracks on the parade ground, past the road that 
leads to the Villa Madama, and came home by the 
way of the Ponte MoUe (such an interesting old 
bridge). We turned into the road that leads to the 
spring of the Acqua Acetosa to see a motley throng 
filling bottles at the spring. The water is free to all 
who care to go for it, and as it is very soft, and good 
to drink, many poor people come out here with 
their little donkey carts, fill numbers of bottles, and 
peddle the water for one or two cents per bottle in 
the streets of Rome. 

Before going home we stopped to see Mrs. Broad- 

[261] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

wood and her daughters, who have a very pretty 
apartment in the Piazza dell'Indipendenza. 

Last evening we went to one of Mme. Diie^s 
musical evenings. The Princess Solms Braunfels 
was delighted with my song by Lefebre, "/r/ has 
tons les lilas meurentJ" She said it was her favorite 
poem and made me sing it two or three times over. 
Lilly very kindly played my accompaniments. 

The Crown Princess of Sweden is passing a few 
days in Rome, and her Lady-of-Honor was there last 
night. She had to leave early, she said, as she had 
much correspondence to attend to for Her Highness. 
Baronne Von Bildt, the wife of the Minister from 
Sweden to England, was there also ; I like her very 
much, and have enjoyed going to her receptions 
which are always delightful. Her husband was 
formerly Minister to Italy, and she is so devoted to 
Rome, that she comes here in the winter as often as 
she can. She has such a pretty little daughter, who 
speaks seven languages, though she is only twelve 
years old. 

Mr. Due kindly played for us last evening, a young 
German nobleman played an interesting sonata on 
the violin, accompanied by his wife, and altogether 
we had a fine " musical good time." 

[262] 



XXXIII 
To T. C. B. 

Rome, Italy, March 17, 1905 

My dear P.: 

I AM afraid you will think my letters are rather 
infrequent of late, but the fact is, we have been 
so extremely busy, people have been doing so 
much for us, and our good times have been so 
numerous, that I really have not had a moment when 
I could write you a satisfactory letter. 

Yesterday we had the good fortune to be invited 
by the daughter of Prince Massimo to attend the 
yearly festival given at the Palazzo Massimo, on 
March 1 6th, in commemoration of the miracle per- 
formed in the palace in 1583 by St. Filippo Neri. 

From a fragment of the " Bull" issued by Pope 
Urban XIII, dated A. D. 1623, at the time of the 
canonization of Filippo Neri, I have the following 
account given me by the Prince, that was taken from 
the life of the saint, by P. Giacomo Bacci, a priest of 
the congregation of the Oratorio di Roma, an order 
founded by St. Filippo. 

[263] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Prince Fabrizio Massimo, having five daughters, 
was very anxious for a son and heir. Accordingly, he 
asked FiHppo Neri, the priest of the family, to add 
his prayers that a son and heir might be born to 
the house of Massimo, and Filippo consented pro- 
viding the child should be named as he might 
dictate. In due time a son was born and christened 
Paolo by the holy father, and soon after the birth 
of the boy, the Princess, his mother, died. At the 
age of fourteen Paolo was taken ill with a fever, but 
he bore his sufferings with such patience that Ger- 
manica Fedeli offered to exchange his health for the 
sufferings of the invalid, but the holy Paolo, confess- 
ing each day to the priest, Filippo, refused to cure 
himself at the expense of another's health. His 
fever grew worse and he became weaker daily, so 
that the holy father Filippo, begged the family to 
acquaint him at once with any change in the in- 
valid's condition. At the time that the messenger 
tried to approach the priest to notify him of the 
boy's sinking condition, the holy man was saying 
mass, and therefore could not be interrupted. When 
at last the mass was finished, and the holy father 
learned of the serious turn that the illness of the boy 
had taken, he hastened to the palace, only to find 
Paolo dead. Shutting himself in the room with the 

[264] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

dead boy, he prayed for some time, sprinkled the 
body with holy water and called to him twice in a 
loud voice, " Paolo, Paolo !" At the sound of the 
saint's voice, the boy opened his eyes as if awakening 
from a sleep, and responded, " Father, I have for- 
gotten one sin which I wish to confess." The holy 
father absolved him from his sin, and the family 
entered the door to find the boy returned to life. 
Paolo quietly answered many questions in regard to 
his dead mother and sister, and on being asked, if he 
had departed this life willingly, answered in the 
affirmative. The holy father repeated the question, 
" Do you willingly die," and the boy responded 
that he was anxious to join his mother and his sister 
in Paradise. Therefore, the holy father gave him the 
benediction of the church, and said to him, " Go 
and be blessed and pray to God for me." There- 
upon, with a smiling countenance and without any 
further movement, the boy fell back quietly into the 
arms of the holy father and was dead. This last 
scene took place in the presence of his father, Fa- 
brizio, his two sisters, the nun St. Martha, Violante 
Santa Croce, his stepmother, and the domestic who 
attended him in his illness, called Francesca. 

All Rome believes devoutly in this miracle and 
from the crowds at the palace inside and out, I think 

[265] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

all Rome, poor and rich, great and small, came to 
honor the Saint's memory. 

St. Filippo Neri was born in Florence in 151 5, 
and was adopted by a wealthy uncle as his heir, but 
being devoutly inclined, he secretly went to Rome 
to study theology and canon law. He distributed 
his property to the poor in 1538, and became one of 
the most popular priests of Rome, beloved by rich 
and poor alike. He seems to me a most interesting 
personality, and far more attractive than his associate 
Ignatius Loyola, who founded the famous Jesuit 
Order in 154 1. St. Filippo founded the Order of 
Priests of the Oratory a little later (in 1575), with 
the approval of Gregory XIII, the magnificent 
Buoncampagni Pope. He died May 26th, 1595, 
and on this day of every year, a festival is held in the 
Chiesa Nuova, erected by him for the order that he 
founded, and every Sunday after the Ave Maria, from 
November first to Palm Sunday, concerts of sacred 
music, to which only men are admitted, are given in 
the Oratorium, in memory of the Saint's great fond- 
ness of music, and his belief in that cheerful form of 
divine service. Beneath the altar of the small and 
sumptuous chapel of St. Filippo Neri repose the 
Saint's remains, and above is the portrait of the saint 

[266] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

in mosaic, after the original painting by Guido Reni, 
which is preserved in the adjoining monastery. 

In commemoration of the St. Filippo miracle, the 
room in which Paolo was brought to life was con- 
verted into a most beautiful chapel, and a mass is 
said there each morning of the year; but on the i6th 
of March, as the anniversary of the miracle, a regu- 
lar festival takes place. The chapel is thrown open 
to the public, as well as the stairways of the palace 
leading to it, from live in the morning until six or 
seven in the evening, and during that time contin- 
ual masses are said before the high altar, to the accom- 
paniment of sacred music. The chapel is endowed 
with the full privileges of a public church, and has re- 
ceived the special blessing and indulgences of many 
Popes. At the side of the entrance, marble tablets 
commemorate the personal visits of three Pontiffs; 
Benedict XIII, Gregory XVI, and Pius IX, who 
came twice to the chapel and presented it with 
very beautiful and costly altar candles, while Leo 
XIII gave the statue of St. Filippo in the 
chapel the same blessing as the statue of St. Peter in 
St. Peter's. The chapel is richly ornamented with 
marble columns, and along the side of the walls are 
arranged wrought iron standards, for innumerable 

[267] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

old brass reliqueurs, which contain innumerable relics 
of varidus saints. These wrought iron supports, made 
in the Gothic style of the fifteenth century, under 
the direction of Professor Ludovico Seitz, as well as 
the beautiful mosaic pavement of the chapel, were 
placed here by the present Prince in 1883, on the 
occasion of the three-hundredth anniversary of the 
miracle. At that time. Prince Carlo had a medal 
struck in commemoration of the anniversary. It was 
executed by Professor Francesco Bianchi, and repre- 
sented on one side the saint bringing back the young 
Prince, and on the other an inscription regarding the 
anniversary. The Prince was kind enough to pre- 
sent me with a reproduction of this medal, and seeing 
that I was especially interested in the chapel and the 
palace, he invited me to come to the palace with F. 
B. a few days after the festival, in order that I might 
see all the relics more carefully, and obtain a more 
complete knowledge of the strange story of St. Filippo 
and the palace. I was very glad of this invitation, for 
on the day of the Saint's festival, there were so many 
people going up and down the stairs of the great 
palace, and such a large crowd in the little chapel itself 
that it was almost impossible to see anything thor- 
oughly. The day of the festival the Prince's daugh- 
ter received the special friends of the family in her 

[268] 



anumc 
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eautiful mosaic pav apel, were 

placed here by the presei i ^ S ?, on the 

occasion of the three mivef^ 

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struck ii: tion oi niversary. It was 

executed bv Profe repre- 

)ringing back the young 
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PRINCE MASSIMO 



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COPYRIGHT, 190b, BY TRYPH03A BATES BATCHELLfcR 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

large and beautiful apartments on the second floor of 
the palace, and only those were allowed to enter these 
rooms from the stairway who had cards of invita- 
tion. It was with great difficulty that we reached 
the apartments of the Countess at all, and it was only 
through the help of one of the public gens d'armes 
in attendance, that we ever made our way up the 
stone stairway thronging with pushing, eager people. 
On presenting of our card of invitation, however, we 
were at once shown into the large ante-room, lead- 
ing to the Countess's apartments. We tried to reward 
our rescuer, but modern Italy is not to be paid for 
services, and with a profound bow the officer made 
his way back down the stairs. At the door we gave 
our cards of invitation to one of the flunkies, and I 
noticed the unusual elegance of the Massimo liveries ; 
dark crimson coats bordered with braid, in which 
the family arms are woven, pale blue waist-coata 
crimson plush knee breeches, and white silk stockings, 
with powdered hair. 

The pretty Countess received us cordially, and her 
father, the Prince, presented us with a copy of the 
story of St. Filippo and showed us all about the apart- 
ments which contain some very interesting and beau- 
tiful things. The portrait of the Prince's mother, 
Maria Gabriella, born Princess of Savoia-Carignano, 

[269] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

was particularly lovely, and the other morning, when 
we came to see the chapel again, the Prince showed 
us a beautiful altar piece, painted by his mother on 
white velvet, and we went afterward to see her 
monument in the church of San Damaso. 

Although the Prince is called in Rome the Black 
Prince, because of his extremely black politics and 
devotion to the Papal cause, he is nevertheless a 
cousin of the King, since his mother belonged to 
the Royal House of Savoy, and his wife is of equally 
distinguished lineage, being a daughter of the 
Duchess of Berry, by her second husband. Prince 
Lucchesi Palli. She, too, had given a most beautiful 
example of her handiwork to the chapel in the shape 
of an altar carpet, made of white crochet work in 
wool and embroidered in flowers. Seven beautiful 
gold chalices inlaid with rubies, amethysts and 
enamel in the style of the fifteenth century, as well 
as crystal candle sticks and wonderful pieces of lace, 
originally belonging to Louis XVI, and some bronze 
altar candle holders from England, are am-ong the 
treasures of this chapel. The father of the present 
Prince, I am told, was especially fond of English 
people. Both the Countess and the Prince were very 
kind and patient in explaining all these things to 
me, and in a room which opens out of the ante- 

[270] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

chamber, they showed me the most wonderful col- 
lection of old ivory that I have ever seen ; perhaps 
the most extraordinary piece was a sceptre belong- 
ing to Augustus III, King of Poland, who was 
the great-great-great-grandfather of the present 
Prince. 

The Massimo family is one of the most illustrious 
of Italy, and claims to be descended from Fabius 
Maximus ; on one of the family tombstones, that of 
Leone Massimo, who died the 23d of April, 1012, 
and was buried on the Aventine Mound, this descent 
is traced. But dating even from that time, his family 
numbers twenty-seven uninterrupted generations, and 
their palace, called the Palazzo Massimo alle 
Colonne, is one of the most interesting mediasval 
structures in Rome. It was the chef d' oeuvre of 
Baldassarre Peruzzi, who died in 1536, before its 
completion. The arch-shaped front of the palace was 
dexterously made to fill the curve of the original nar- 
row street, called the Via Massimo, but all is changed, 
and the stern-looking palace now looks down upon the 
new street of the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele, which 
has ruthlessly done away with many small streets and 
traverses Rome from end to end with electric car 
tracks down the centre. But the palace is still very 
striking in effect, and on the day of the festival the 

[271] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

pillars of the front of the house are hung with silken 
draperies on which are painted scenes from the life 
of St. Filippo, while on all the windows of the first 
floor are placed the old mediaeval iron torch holders ; 
and you feel, as you enter the palace and go about 
the rooms where so many old and curious things are 
to be seen, that you have stepped from the twentieth 
century back into the fifteenth, though the clang of 
the electric cars bridges over the seeming discrepancy 
in time. The room in which the Countess received 
is hung with red brocade, consequently, everybody 
chatted with everybody else in a most animated way. 
Have you ever noticed that red makes people talk ? 
It seems to act on people's tongues as on a bulFs 
temper, and I have noticed many times, where there 
is more than one receiving room at a reception, no 
one will stay anywhere but in the red room, if there 
is one. The ceiling of this particular room is very 
elaborate with the combined arms of Massimo and 
Savoy carved in the centre, while on the walls there 
are many fine pictures by Giulio Romano, and his 
school. In the midst of all this resplendent mediae- 
valism was a modern, up-to-date tea-table, on which 
all sorts of " goodies '' were arranged in pretty mod- 
ern silver dishes, and a cup of tea was, I assure you, 

[272] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

most welcome after the struggle up and down the 
stairs to and from the chapel. 

The son of the House, Prince of Arsoli, married 
the daughter of Princess Brancaccio, who, you re- 
member, was Miss Field, of Chicago. In the days 
of the temporal power of the Pope, the Princes of 
the House of Massimo were always among those 
nearest to His Holiness, and the picture that I am 
sending you shows the present Prince in his robes as 
a Noble Patrician Roman Prince. I hope some day 
you may be with me here in Rome on the occasion of 
this festival of San Filippo Neri, because I am sure, 
you would be very much interested in the many 
unusual and wonderful things one can see only on 
that day. 



L273] 



XXXIV 
To E. F. D. B. 

THE LAST HUNT OF THE SEASON 

Rome, Italy, March, 23, 1905 

My dear M.: 

WE have just come in from the last hunt 
of the season, and a very pretty and bril- 
liant sight it was, too. All winter long 
there has been a meet, once, and generally twice a 
week. The Italians are quite English in their fond- 
ness for following the hounds, and the broad Cam- 
pagna makes an ideal hunting-ground. The meets 
are usually held some two or three miles out of 
Rome, and the riders and their friends drive out in 
carriages, their fine English hunters being taken by 
their grooms. It is one of the sights of Rome, to 
see these meets and hundreds of people go out each 
time to look on. This morning the road lay past 
the Colosseum and three or four miles out on the 
Appian way. Innumerable carriages, from landaus 
to governess carts, hurried along the road, making 
a fearful dust. Carriage after carriage filled with 

[274I 



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gayly uniformed officers hurried by us, their order- 
lies following mounted, and leading their officers' 
hunters. Such a melee of carriages, people, horses 
and grooms, I have never seen, as were collected 
around the entrance way to the immense field from 
which the start was to be made. The riders were 
hurrying about giving last instructions to their 
grooms, hunting for friends, and, once mounted, they 
followed the master-of-the-hounds, forming part of 
the little procession that moved slowly up and down 
the field, for the benefit of the photographers who 
came out from Rome. A good deal more than an 
hpur was consumed in getting ready, but when the 
field was really all mounted, a more lovely picture 
you can scarcely imagine. All the gentlemen were 
in their pink coats, which are always so picturesque, 
and the bright uniforms of the Italian officers added 
much to the usual gayety of the ordinary hunting 
scene. A great many ladies here ride, and this 
morning several of the American women had excep- 
tionally fine mounts. 

You remember about my speaking of the Mar- 
chesa Casati with her lovely gowns and jewels, but I 
forgot to say then, that she is one of the finest horse- 
women in Italy. I am sending you a little picture 
that shows her in her long leopard-skin coat, just as 

[^75] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

she rode out in her carriage to the meet before 
mounting. Many of the women use their large fur 
automobile coats for this purpose, as it is apt to be 
very cold driving out, and later they are doubly wel- 
come when the hunt is over, for the drive back into 
Rome. Many of the jumps are extremely difficult 
and one must be a very good rider to attempt to fol- 
low at all. 

The on-lookers ran down to see the horses take 
the first wall, and most of them did it splendidly. It 
was very warm this morning, and I believe there are 
to be no more meets this season, though this was the 
most brilliant of the year. Near the place of start- 
ing, there is often a tent put up, where sandwiches and 
wine may be had, either by those riding or by those 
who come to look on. As it was 3 o'clock when 
we started towards home, we were glad to avail our- 
selves of this impromptu buffet. 

Just before we left for home, I had a little chat 
with Mrs. Mocatta, who was looking particularly 
chic this morning in a light gray tailor-made, and 
she had a large veil, so arranged about her hat and 
hair that both were perfectly protected from the 
dust, while she managed to make it very becoming 
as well. I tried to see how it was done, but I don't 

[276] 



A1^0A<IMAU^HT ^gOjq^OA- TTI^TJET'^HT 



THE HUNT ACROSS THE CAMPAGNA 





COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY TRVPH08A BATES BATCHELLEd 




COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY TRYPHOSA BATES BATCHELLEfl 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

think I succeeded, though I heartily wished I 
had my head as well protected on the drive 
home. 

Baron Morpurgo came up for a hasty good morn- 
ing, as he was looking for his hunter. He is one of 
the best horsemen and finest riders in the country, I 
am told. He looked extremely well this morning; 
I think the pink coat is becoming to all men. Pre- 
sumably, if I come back next year, I shall try and 
get a good hunter for the season, though, if you 
were here, you would carry off all the honors of the 
family. I did so wish you were with me yesterday, 
for you would have enjoyed seeing the bright red 
coats and uniforms galloping over the Campagna. 
The impressions of such a modern, up-to-date scene 
in contrast with the old ruined aqueducts and tow- 
ers seemed incongruous ; yet, it was all very pictur- 
esque, and as a back-ground we always have here 
the beautiful snow-capped mountains in the distance, 
which add, of course, so much to the grandeur of 
the landscape. 

Just as we drove out of the field to return to 
Rome, our driver turned sharply to one side to let 
the Marchese Guglielmi's stunning four-in-hand go 
by. The Marquis was driving himself, and had some 

[^77] 



V. 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

very pretty girls on the coach with him. We 
thought the dust going out pretty bad, but we felt as 
if we should be simply buried up by it coming home. 
Automobile after automobile dashed by us, "wrap- 
ping us in dust," as our Japanese friends ^Vould say. 
Numerous people bowed as they passed, and I nodded 
blindly in return, for it was impossible to distinguish 
anybody clearly, as there seemed to be a regular sand- 
bank between us. 

On Tuesday we are going to call on the Countess 
Gianotti, who lives in the famous old Colonna 
Palace. She is a charming woman and I shall write 
you about her later. We are in a great hurry, so 
you must not mind a short letter this time. 



Later, 

We had a pleasant afternoon at Mme. Ohyama's 
reception. Just as we arrived Baronne Colucci was 
driving away. We went to see her the other day in 
her pretty villa just outside the Porta Pia, where I 
told you so many new villas are being built. Every- 
thing at the Japanese Embassy is very elegant, and 
Mme. Ohyama has the same charming politeness for 

[278] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

which all the Japanese are famous. His Excellency 
talked with F. B. a good deal about the war in a 
very modest way, considering the wonderful success 
Japan has had on every side. Mme. Ohyama, except for 
her beautiful Japanese hair, might have stepped from 
a French fashion plate, and she is one of the many 
Japanese women I have seen who are thoroughly 
successful with European clothes. 

We returned early to the hotel, and F. B. found a 
package of his adored New York Tribunes (there 
is no getting him away from them when they arrive, 
as they do in installments three or four times a week), 
so we hardly got to Mrs. George Lee's dinner at the 
Grand Hotel in time. She had some friends from 
New York dining with her, and her daughter, who 
is soon to make her debut, is going about quite a 
little in Rome. Mrs. L. is an Italian, you know, but 
has not been in Italy for twenty years, and speaks 
Italian with a slight American accent ; she is a very 
pretty woman, and looks quite as young as her 
daughter. It has seemed very nice to see some one 
from Boston. 

I spent a pleasant afternoon recently with Donna 
Bice and Countess Taverna at the former's palace, 
which is quite new, and very elegant. The Countess 

[279] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

had thoughtfully arranged to have the directress of 
her lace-school come from Milan to make sure that 
any orders I might wish to give should be executed 
exactly to my wishes. Nothing could be more lovely 
than the courtesy of these Italian ladies, and we had 
a nice, cosy time together discussing the laces over 
tea. 



[280] 



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XXXV 
To E. F. D. B. 

Rome, Italy, March 29, 1905 

My dear M, : 

IN my last letter, I wrote you that I was going to 
call on the Countess Gianotti, so on Tuesday, 
when she receives, we drove to the great Colonna 
palace in the Piazza S. Apostoli. The Countess 
received us very pleasantly and, among others, pre- 
sented us to her niece, the pretty Miss Patterson, 
whom I have spoken of before in my letters. As 
we are both young and both Americans, everyone 
has taken it for granted that we knew each other, 
but, as a matter of fact, we had never met till yester- 
day. I was glad to have a little talk with her, for 
I have admired her all winter. I wish all Ameri- 
can girls had as perfect and charming manners as 
Miss P. 

The Countess' sunny apartments are large and ele- 
gant, and I was much interested in the great picture 
of the battle of Custoza, about which I have often 
read. It represents a scene of the famous battle 

[281] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

where Count Gianotti saved the Ufe of his Prince, 
who became afterwards King Umberto I. Count 
G. is the central figure, and is represented in the act 
of rallying the retreating Italian soldiers to the de- 
fence of their Prince. 

Custoza is a little village in the Province of Verona, 
near the town of Villafranca, and has been the scene 
of two bloody, unfortunate battles for the Italians in 
their struggle against Austria. On July 25th, 1848, 
the Italians were defeated; on the same ill-fated 
battle-ground, in 1866, they were again worsted by 
their old enemy, though not completely defeated, and 
it was on this occasion that Victor Emmanuel took for 
the first time his two sons, Umberto and Aniedeo, 
with him to battle. There was fierce fighting on both 
sides, and once during the battle Prince Umberto 
found himself almost entirely surrounded by Austrians. 
He was in danger of being killed or taken prisoner 
when Count Gianotti, riding suddenly up and dis- 
covering the danger of his Prince, called loudly to 
the broken ranks of the Italian soldiers to rally, and 
save their Prince and the honor of his house. The 
soldiers at once responded to the call of their valiant 
officer, rushed forward, drove back the Austrians, 
and Prince Umberto's life was saved. That the 
Count's heroism and valor was duly appreciated is 

[282] 



HIS EXCELLENCY COUNT GIANOTTI 




COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY TRYPHOSA BATES BATCHELLER 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

attested by a touching inscription of gratitude writ- 
ten by King Umberto himself, in the margin of the 
famous picture. 

" Al Capitano Conte Caesare Gianotti 
Ricordo di Villafranca il 24 Giugno, 1866, 
II suo affezionatissimo compagno d'armi 
Umberto di Savoia." 

" To Captain Count Caesar Gianotti 
In memory of Villafranca the 24th of June, 1866, 
His very affectionate comrade in arms 
Umberto di Savoia." 

On a table just below is a small bronze bust of the 
late King, which Queen Margherita, the Countess 
told me, brought with her own hands as a gift to 
her, after King Umberto's death. 

When Royal visitors come to Italy, much of the 
responsibility of their entertainment falls upon 
Count Gianotti, who is Prefect of the Palace of the 
King and Grand Master of Ceremonies. They must 
have found the Count as clever an entertainer as he 
is a valiant soldier, for in a fine old Louis XVI cabi- 
net in the corner of the drawing room, the Countess 
pointed out to me several exquisite boxes, ornamented 
with miniatures of the German Emperor, and ele- 
gantly set with diamonds and other precious stones. 
Italy has long enjoyed friendly relations with Prussia; 

[283] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the German Emperor is very fond of Rome, and has 
presented these various boxes to Count Gianotti on 
the occasions when he has visited here. On another 
table is a set of the finest Sevres figures I remember to 
have seen. This set was given to Count Gianotti by- 
President Loubet of France, on the occasion of his 
recent visit to the King of Italy; it is a very singular 
coincidence that Louis XIV of France gave an exact 
duplicate of this set to Cardinal Colonna many hun- 
dred years ago, which is still in the same Colonna 
palace, although in another apartment. 

Quite the most lovely picture the Countess has on 
her walls, to my way of thinking, is the portrait of 
her two daughters by Gulli. The elder is now mar- 
ried to Count Balbis, but Marcella, the younger, who 
is extremely pretty, helped her mother to receive 
yesterday. The Countess had planned for a little 
musicale for me, but invitations for a dinner to be 
given by Their Majesties the King and Queen, in 
honor of the ^' Collars of the Annunziata," to which 
the Count and Countess were bidden, necessitated a 
postponement. But the Countess seemed so much 
disappointed at not having heard me sing at all, that 
I said I would sing a few ballads for her then and 
there. As you know, the Countess is an American 
woman (nee Franklin Kinney) and she was quite de- 

[284] 



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HER EXCELLENCY THE COUNTESS GIANOTTI 




COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY TRYPHOSA BATES BATCHELLER 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

lighted to hear " Ben Bolt/' " Coming Through the 
Rye," and a few others of the old-time songs. After 
we had gone back and were having tea, and she had 
showed me a picture of her little grandchild, she 
asked if I would mind repeating one or more of the 
ballads before I went away; "It is so long since I 
have heard them," she said, " and I think Americans 
always love them." 

The Countess has beautiful jewels and looks most 
distinguished and elegant on all occasions. She is 
very charming to her own countrywomen who come 
to Italy, and has a wonderful way of receiving a 
number of people who all speak different languages. 
She makes flying translations in three or four tongues 
from one person to another, with so much ease and 
grace and with so little apparent effort, that every- 
body feels that they are taking part in the conver- 
sation and having a most delightful time. Although 
she has lived so long in Italy, and has been in Court 
life so much, she is very kind and thoughtful about 
explaining little points of etiquette or custom to her 
American friends. Indeed, she does us credit in 
every way and America should be properly proud of 
her. 

The Colonna palace in which she lives, like so 
many of these great Roman palaces, was built by 

[285] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

pulling down ancient monuments. The Colonna 
Pope, Martin V, made possible all this magnifi- 
cence, and the gallery is one of the finest rooms in 
Rome. It is two hundred feet long, and is deco- 
rated most elaborately by mirrors, chandeliers, statues, 
many famous paintings, and an immense amount of 
the gilded carved work of which the Italians are so 
fond. Like many of these Roman palaces, it looks 
nothing but a great pile of stones on the outside, and 
numbers of shops occupy the lower part of the front 
of the palace, which opens out on the square of the 
Apostoli. 

The greater part of the sculptures in this gallery 
were found in the ancient excavations of Boville, 
which was on the Colonna estate, near Marino. 
There are a great many lovely pictures here; an 
authentic and beautiful portrait of the famous Vit- 
toria Colonna, always the friend and patron of art, 
Rubens's Assumption, others by Tintoretto, Ghirlan- 
daio and Spagnoletto, numerous Van Dykes, and a 
wonderful portrait of Maria Mancini, the wife of 
Lorenzo Colonna, by Gaspare Netscher. Beside this 
great hall, there is the room called the Throne-room, 
for it was formerly the custom in all princely Roman 
houses to have a special hall destined to receive the 
Pope, in the event of His Holiness coming to visit 

[286] 



THE COUNTESS BALBIS AND DONNA 
MARCELLA GIANOTTI 




COPYRIGHT, 190G, BY TRYPHOSA BATES SATCHELLER 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the family. The arm-chair that was to serve as the 
temporary throne for His HoHness, was always turned 
toward the wall to show that it was only for the 
Pope's use. 

The present Prince Don Marcantonio Colonna 
has had two beautiful carved frames made for two 
documents that belonged to the great Marcantonio 
Colonna II. One set is especially interesting, as 
it contains the nautical chart that is supposed to have 
been used by him in the great battle of Lepanto, in 
1 57 1. You remember the famous painting we have 
seen of this battle in Venice. The Colonna have 
always been one of the most powerful families in 
Italy, and disputed the territory and complete domain 
of the Roman Campagna for centuries, with the Or- 
sini and Caetani families. Throughout the Middle 
Ages their constant warfare deluged the surrounding 
country with blood ; but to-day all is peace, and the 
Throne room has become a show room only, though 
down to the present day the Colonna family is one 
of the most popular and richest of Italy. It was in 
the court yard of this palace, where the huge horses 
with their gigantic leaders, that form a part of the 
great fountain in the square of the Quirinal, were 
found with the names of Praxiteles and Phidias on 
their pedestals. 

[287] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

On leaving the Countess, we went to call on Miss 
Fielder, an attractive Englishwoman, whose engage- 
ment to Count Campello, the admired and cultured 
President of our Dante Alighieri Society in Boston, 
has just been announced. Miss F. has lived in Rome 
a great many years, and hearing that I knew Count 
Campello, she asked me to come and see her. Her 
address gave a number in the Piazza di Spagna that 
we recognized at once as our banker's. We did n't 
quite understand, but obeyed directions and drove 
there, feeling that we must have made some mistake. 
On entering the doorway, the concierge said, " Si, 
Signora, e qui la Signorina Fielder , ma e meglio pren- 
dere V ascensore" ("Yes, my lady, it is here that Miss 
Fielder lives, but you had better take the elevator"). 
With that, she directed us around the corner to the 
great elevator that takes people to the Trinita from 
the Piazza. Bewildered, we went as we were 
bidden, meekly repeating Miss Fielder's name to the 
gruff man in the elevator. " Entrata, Eccellenzey' he 
said; "^ qui'' ('*it is here"). When we were appar- 
ently in mid air, and only part way up to the Trinita, 
the elevator stopped, and the man motioned for me 
to get out. I hesitated, for I could only step out on 
the roof of a house. '^Ma si, e qui'* ("Yes, it is 

[288] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

here ''), and he indicated a small door where I could 
ring. 

Feeling like a somnambulist, I walked out on the 
roof, but there, sure enough, was a little door in a 
sort of coop. I discovered a bell, too, and rang. 
Presently, I heard some one coming, and in 
another moment I was walking down a flight of 
marble stairs, following a stalwart Sienese serving- 
maid, down, down into the apartment of Miss 
Fielder. I have heard of entering the side or the 
cellar of a house, but I never made a call through 
the roof before. However, it seemed to be quite the 
usual thing here, and after several windings and turn- 
ings, I found myself in a lovely apartment at the 
very top of the large fine building, overlooking the 
beautiful piazza with all its flowers, sunshine, busy 
life and constant interest. 

It would have been natural, it seemed to me, for 
the lady of the house to enter the room through a 
trap door in the floor, but in this I was disappointed. 
Miss Fielder came through a door in the ordinary 
way, and I soon forgot my funny entrance through 
the roof, in looking over the series of marvelous pho- 
tographs that my charming hostess had taken her- 
self, among them an excellent kodak of H. M. 

[289] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Queen Margherita, who is very fond of Miss 
Fielder. 

I am selfish enough to hope that when their honey- 
moon is over, Count and Countess Campello will 
come to Boston, but to leave Rome after living there 
many years must be very difficult, I should imagine. 
We are going out this evening to the opera, so good 
wishes and good night. 



[290] 



XXXVI 
E. F. D. B. 

PALAZZO FARNESE AND JOACHIM 

Rome, Italy, March 30, 1905 

My dear M.: 

JUST at present we are in the midst of a musical 
feast, and are enjoying, through the kindness of 
the Marchesa de Viti de Marco, the whole six- 
teen quartettes of Beethoven, which are being given 
by the Joachim Quartet in the beautiful and historic 
hall of the Carracci in the Palazzo Farnese, which is 
now rented from the heirs of the King of Naples, to 
whom the palace belongs, by the French govern- 
ment for its embassy in Rome. A more ideal place 
for chamber music you cannot imagine than this 
beautiful hall, long, high and narrow, as all halls for 
music should be (I wish the piano manufacturers 
would learn this when they build their new halls), 
and decorated with fine mythological frescoes by 
Annibale and Agostino Carracci; and of course no 
one can hear more lovely chamber music than that 

[291] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

made by the famous Joachim and the members of 
his world-renowned quartet. 

When I first came to Rome, I was told that the 
Italians were not at all musical, but I have since 
come to know that the report was as entirely erro- 
neous as it seemed to me incredible. The Romans 
distinctly dislike anything but good music, but that 
certainly does not go to show that they are not mu- 
sical. Rome is only as large as Boston, yet it sup- 
ports, and supports handsomely, a long season of opera, 
with performances three and four times a week. 
The productions are as a rule excellent, the artists 
most satisfactory, and it is not likely the impresario 
would continue to produce opera here each season if 
he did not find it financially profitable. Besides the 
first-class opera at the Costanzi, opera is given in 
two, if not more, of the smaller theatres, and these 
also make money, which* certainly goes to show that 
the Romans are musical and that Rome does not lack 
for good music. 

There is a flourishing Bach Society here, and only 
yesterday I read the announcement of the first con- 
cert of the Cherubini Society to be given in Phil- 
harmonic Hall, and a little later a committee of 
ladies is planning to give the Stabat Mater, by Per- 
golese. The Orchestral Society of Rome, in order 

[292] 



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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

to put within the means of everyone the best orches- 
tral music, has arranged a series of concerts at very 
modest prices and they have engaged some of the best 
artists in order that the pubHc at large may hear the 
various celebrities at small expense. This society 
also has undertaken to give help to foreign and 
Italian composers, whose means will not permit them 
to present their own compositions to the public, and 
besides all these, there is the celebrated Academy of 
St. Cecilia, which gives each season in its ideal 
music hall a series of excellent concerts, under the 
direction of the Count San Martino, who intends 
that all the distinguished artists of the world shall 
be heard one time or another at these concerts, which 
the Queen Mother almost invariably attends, as well 
as all fashionable Rome. You will see from these 
facts how absurd it is to say that the Italians are not 
musical. 

Mme. Barrere, the cultured and clever wife of the 
French Ambassador, conceived the idea of inviting 
the great Joachim to come to Rome, and give in her 
palace the whole series of Beethoven quartettes, in a 
way similar to that which he had previously done in 
Paris. Accordingly, she offered the opportunity to 
her friends of subscribing to her proposed concerts, 
wishing beforehand to assure Joachim of success in 

[293] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

his Italian visit. Almost before she knew it every 
seat in the hall had been subscribed for, and there still 
remained numbers of her friends who were most 
anxious to attend the concerts ; but, as she wisely said, 
much as she would like to have every one come who 
wished, the hall could comfortably seat only just so 
many people, and she was determined that it should 
not be crowded. First among the subscribers was 
Her Majesty Queen Margherita, always a patron- 
ess of music, and a special admirer of Beethoven. 
Her Majesty Queen Elena also immediately signified 
her intention to attend these concerts, and there has 
been the wildest sort of a scramble to obtain a ticket 
for some at least of these delightful afternoons. All 
of the arrangements were made before we arrived in 
Rome, so I felt it would be quite hopeless for me to 
attempt to go, but the ever kind and thoughtful 
Marchesa de V., in some way, managed to procure 
not only a ticket for myself, but also one for F. B., 
and I assure you we are very grateful to her for this 
kindness. 

You know, I am particularly fond of chamber 
music, and each quartette has seemed lovelier than the 
one before, though I think, after all, the one in A 
minor leaves the deepest impression. On the first 
day, we received our subscribers' programmes, 

[294] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

printed on the finest of white vellum, and also 
a little book dedicated to Queen Margherita, 
describing each quartette, prepared by Signor Ip- 
polito Valetta, as a lovely souvenir of these musical 
treats. 

Queen Margherita has not missed one of the concerts, 
though they have taken place nearly every day. Queen 
Elena has come also several times, arriving usually 
very early and leaving before the concert was finished. 
Mme. Barrere always receives the Queen and the 
Queen Mother personally, and after each concert has 
a dainty tea table prepared for them. Nothing is 
left undone for the comfort of everyone by the Am- 
bassadress, who, by the by, is a Turkish woman from 
Constantinople. The arrangement of the seats was 
excellent, and the chairs very comfortable. No 
carriages were allowed to thunder in and out of the 
great court yard, with its triple colonnade, during 
the time of the concert, but those who came late 
were obliged to leave their carriages at the outside 
entrance. 

The palace is one of the finest in Rome, and was 
begun by the extravagant and artistic Cardinal Ales- 
sandro Farnese, who became Pope Paul III in 
1534; it was built largely from materials taken from 
the Colosseum and the theatre of Marcellus. What 

[295] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

an eternal series of pulling down to build up Rome 
presents ! One beautiful thing destroyed to build 
another, and that in turn torn down to add more 
elegance to some newer building. I have read a 
great deal about this Carracci Hall, where the concerts 
are given, so I was specially pleased to be able to see 
it under such delightful circumstances. 

The Marchesa de V., at the end of Joachim's 
visit, gave the great man a very lovely dinner and re- 
ception. She was kind enough to invite me to the 
dinner, and in a very charming manner asked if I 
would consent to sing two of my Mozart arias for 
Joachim, and her friends, at the reception, and, of 
course, I was very glad to do so. The dinner was 
delicious, though I could not eat much, as I had to 
sing afterward, and Mr. Mendelssohn, a very wealthy 
banker from Berlin, who is a great friend of Herr 
Joachim, knowing that I should not talk much, 
made himself altogether delightful and interesting by 
talking to me. The French Ambassador and Mme. 
Barrere, and Count and Countess Cavazza of Bologna 
were also of the dinner party, and the Marchesa 
made a most lovely hostess, in a velvet gown that ex- 
actly matched her exquisite set of large emeralds. 
After dinner Prof. Sgambati and his quintet, known 

[296] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

as the Court Quintet, as it is under the special 
patronage of Her Majesty the Queen Mother, played 
some of the master's own compositions. A Beethoven 
trio followed, Joachim taking the violin, Mr. Men- 
delssohn the 'cello, and the latter's beautiful Floren- 
tine wife the piano part. Then the Marchesa asked 
me to sing the second aria of the Queen of the 
Night from the "Magic Flute " and some other 
Mozart selection, as she is particularly fond of that 
composer. Mrs. Mendelssohn had previously con- 
sented to play my accompaniments, and I thought 
the Marchesa most considerate to arrange for me to 
sing after the rest of the music, since by that time 
the dinner was a thing of the past. Everyone was 
. very enthusiastic about my singing. Herr Joachim 
seemed much pleased and has written a bit of music 
for me in my album. The Princess Venosa, one of 
the beauties of Rome, was especially gracious and 
said many pleasant things about my voice. The 
Marchesa presented me to a great many of her 
guests, and I passed one of the most delightful evenings 
that I have spent in Rome. Among others, I met a 
handsome young Viennese woman, a relative of our 
friends in Vienna, now married to the Marchese A. 
LuciferOo She is very musical, talented in many 

[297] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ways and has a sweet voice. Our hostess lives in the 
famous old Orsini palace, which is built on the ruins 
of the theatre of Marcellus, and is approached from 
the street by a steep winding ascent. One feels as if 
one were entering a fortress, but the welcome inside 
is as cordial as the outside is austere and forbidding. 



[298] 



XXXVII 
To E. F. D. B. 

INDUSTRIE FEMMINILI 

Rome, Italy, March 31, 1905 

My dear M, : 

YOU remember I spoke of going to the sale 
of laces and embroideries at the Grand 
Hotel on Ash Wednesday, after I was pre- 
sented to Her Majesty Queen Margherita. I prom- 
ised to write you something more about the organi- 
zation of ladies who are interested in these laces, and 
as I have just been taking tea this afternoon with some 
of the patronesses at the headquarters of the cor- 
poration in the Via Marco Minghetti, I have 
learned much more about the Society and its aims. 
Now I think I can write you clearly about the 
whole matter. 

In I 891, a few Italian ladies of the nobility came 
together with the intention to try to make known 
throughout Italy and abroad the work being done 
by Italian women, in lace and embroidery, such as 
reticelle, pizzi and tessuti, by sending to the Chicago 

[299] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and Paris expositions the best samples of their work. 
At both expositions the work received several prizes, 
and also honorable mention. Encouraged by these 
results, the Italian ladies of rank and distinction 
founded in 1898 a society which was, in the words 
of the Countess of Taverna, President of the Roman 
Federation of Feminine Work, " Eminently pacific 
in intent, apart from all politics, representing no 
party, and having as its sole aim the bringing 
together of the various benevolent endeavors to 
steadily improve and advance the social, economic, 
intellectual and moral standards of the Italian wo- 
man.'' This federation in 1901 gave an exhibi- 
tion of the work accomplished, under the patronage 
of Their Majesties Queen Elena and Queen Mar- 
gherita, which met with great success. Many of 
the people who came to this exposition, although 
Italians of culture and wealth, had not realized that 
the Italian peasant women could produce such beau- 
tiful works of art. Encouraged by the success and 
public approval of this first Italian exposition, the 
noble ladies who formed the association arranged 
for a second exhibition of the products of the various 
lace and embroidery schools, working under their pro- 
tection and guidance. Having learned from the first 
exposition various details to be avoided and others to 

[300] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

be improved, and feeling much surer of public ap- 
proval, the second exposition met, as was to be ex- 
pected, with greater success than it was possible for 
the first to have achieved. The general skepticism 
that every new venture is bound to meet was not appar- 
ent, and the Co-operative Society of Women's Work 
seemed to be an established fact. But presently the 
ladies realized that in these exhibitions there was 
really nothing permanent that they or the public could 
depend upon, and after proper consideration, the Soci- 
ety decided, in May, 1903, to establish at Rome head- 
quarters to which the work of the various schools, 
now successfully established throughout Italy, could 
be sent, and thence distributed to the Italian public 
and abroad. The aims of the Society are two: to 
establish permanently in Italy, and if possible in 
other countries, a market through reliable and per- 
manent agencies for the goods made ; and through 
the means of an artistic committee of cultured and 
intelligent patronesses, who, by directing the work 
in the most approved way, shall lessen the price of 
these artistic productions, and at the same time 
improve the condition of the poor women of Italy. 
The patrimonial advice is carried out in the society 
of active members, by means of a supervising com- 
mittee, whose work is still further carried on by the 

[301] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Sindaci. Twenty-four ladies form a committee of 
patronesses, who watch over the general welfare of 
the society, invite new members to belong to the 
institution, who may aid in uplifting the artistic and 
financial standing of the society, and, at the same time, 
endeavor to obtain from the government all that can 
be turned to advantage for the education, instruction 
and material improvement of the workers. Beside 
the committee of patronesses there is a sub-com- 
mittee of ladies to inspect the work, and these ladies 
also take great pains to inspect the industrial schools 
elsewhere, to study themselves the many beautiful 
designs of lace and embroidery in the museums, to 
which their rank and position give them easy access, 
and to keep in touch with the changes of fashion, in 
order that their schools may produce the articles 
most desired at the most opportune time in various 
countries. 

The council of administration and the committee of 
patronesses form a joint committee to decide upon 
the acceptability of the work sent to headquarters, 
the proper wages for the workers, and suitable prices 
for the articles to be sold. The President of the 
Council of Administration is Countess Cora di Brazza- 
Savorgnan ; the Vice President is the Countess Lavinia 
Taverna. The Countess Maria Pasolini was the first 

[302] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

President of the committee of patronesses, but on 
account of her health has resigned, and in her place 
has been elected the Countess Antonia Suardi-Ponti ; 
Donna Bice Tittoni is now Vice President, while 
the Secretary is the well-known Italian authoress, 
Amelia Rosselli. 

A most appropriate and attractive building has 
been constructed especially for the society in the Via 
Marco Minghetti. In these rooms are to be seen 
the best work of the Italian peasants in laces, various 
kinds of embroidery, dolls quaintly dressed in the 
costumes of the various districts of Italy, and tapestries 
from the old and interesting country in the Abruzzi 
mountains of Pescocostanzo. 

More than ever at the present day, Italian art 
needs earnest and disinterested aid, for in this tumul- 
tuous age of inventions, where machinery is accom- 
plishing so much, and is, perforce, depriving many 
hands of their labor, while the cry is continually, 
**much for little,'' it is indeed fortunate that the 
noble women of Italy have revived these old handi- 
crafts, and simultaneously given to the poor women 
of the mountain towns regular and pleasant employ- 
ment, and to the public these treasures which they 
are only too glad to be able to possess. It was, 
however, a tremendous undertaking to seek out in 

[303] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the quiet corners of the little mountain villages 
throughout Italy, the hidden possibilities for such a 
great work, and these ladies who have dedicated so 
much of their time and activity to this research may 
indeed be pleased and proud of the success of 
their efforts. 

The Countess Lavinia Taverna has a large school 
of lace workers near Milan, where under a skilful 
directress, a number of girls and women make the 
most beautiful filet lace that I have ever seen. 
The Countess herself has given much time and 
thought, as well as a great deal of money, to the 
study and perfection of her designs. Many of them 
are quaint and fantastic, and are reproduced from 
designs in the museums, or from tapestries of the 
fifteenth century. I have treated myself to a tea- 
cloth bordered with this lace, and I think I told you 
that I have decided to bring home a number of things 
from this school to show my American friends. I 
feel sure that everyone who sees them will wish at 
once to order some from Italy, as they are not only 
beautiful in themselves but have the added attraction 
of being something entirely new to us. The shirt- 
waists are simply fascinating, and the Countess, who 
has a beautiful villa on Lake Como, has watched over 
the dyeing of some of the lovely Como silks, with 

[304I 



m 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the result that her silk table covers in the old tapes- 
try shades, made in various ways and with various 
kinds of her beautiful lace are simply beyond 
description. 

Without this lace work, the girls and women of 
these villages would be obliged to work in the hot 
factories of Milan, or some other large city, where 
they would not be as well off physically, mentally 
nor morally, whereas now they can earn a good wage 
daily, live at home with their families, and are not 
so occupied but that they can still perform many of 
their household duties. As the Countess Taverna is 
a woman of taste, as well as great ability, the success 
of her school is a foregone conclusion, especially 
since the filet lace is the raging fad and fancy of the 
moment. Dealers everywhere are struggling to get 
it, and so far as I have seen in Paris, London, New 
York or Boston, the productions of the Taverna 
School far excel any of the filet made elsewhere. 
Moreover, as this filet lace becomes known, it is 
bound to be more and more fashionable, for the 
reason of its many practical uses. Most beautiful 
and elegant table cloths may be trimmed with it, 
attractive sofa pillows and small cushions made of 
colored silks are covered with lace, thus showing to 
good advantage the unusual and mediaeval patterns; 

[305] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

centre-pieces, small doilies, sachets, and an infinite 
number of other similar things are very lovely made 
of this lace; and certainly nothing could be smarter 
than a white linen gown used in combination with 
some of these patterns. While this is one of the 
most flourishing schools, there are many others 
throughout Italy. 

The Countess Lina Cavazza-Bianconcini is the 
directress of the women's section of Aemilia Ars, 
and has revived and brought to notice many exquisite 
embroideries, done in the old, almost forgotten stitches^ 
among which the principal one, punto a reticella is 
particularly attractive, and all are from sixteenth and 
seventeenth century designs. 

The Countess Cavazza herself taught her maid, who 
had come from a Convent School, many of these old 
stitches; the girl in turn taught her school-mates, and 
there are now in this lace school thus begun 2,000 
girls, and 100,000 lire business is done each year. 
The Countess is always studying and searching for new 
designs, and indeed does considerable work person- 
ally, for she is one of the most energetic and delight- 
ful women of Italy. 

At Perugia, the Countess del Majno with the help 
of the artist Rossi Scotti, has collected a small num- 
ber of scholars around a very old lady in whose hands 

[306] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

lie the secrets of the beautiful silken tapestries, punto 
ajiamma (flame stitch), which with their permanent 
colorings artistically arranged, make beautiful altar 
decorations. 

At the Savignano di Romagna, the Countess Ras- 
poni has successfully produced in her school silk braids 
and fringes; at Cigoli, Baroness Sonnino, fringes and 
tessuti. At Circello the Duchess of Somora has 
revived tapestries worked in lana a rilievo. Miss 
Smith in Anghiari has taught the peasants to em- 
broider innestare su rozza tela^ a very simple stitch, 
forming an embroidery without color. At Tres- 
piano, the Signorina Amari has taught the girls of 
the school, directed by her, rare old stitches which 
she has sought from museums, galleries and long for- 
gotten books, for the Signorina is one of the most 
valued members of the society, and a delightful per- 
son, as I have learned to know. 

At Friuli is the school of the Countess Cora di 
Brazza-Savorgnan, who is an American woman (nee 
Slocum) of whom we should be proud because of 
the energy and ability she has shown in connection 
with the Industrie Femmintli. She comes from New 
Orleans, and has given the greater part of her time 
for several years, to directing and helping this work 
of uplifting the women of Italy. I had such a pleas- 

[307] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ant call a few days ago when I went to see her at the 
Palazzo Brazza in the Via deir Umilta. She was 
staying with her mother-in-law temporarily, as she 
was soon to start on a tour through Italy, of inspec- 
tion and advice to the various schools connected with 
the organization, which she has done so much to make 
a permanent success. We found her at her type- 
writer, sheets of paper on all sides, and near at hand a 
number of immense sample books, showing the various 
laces, embroideries and other works of the Italian 
women. She showed me a case of gold medals bear- 
ing the stamp '*Cora Brazza" that had been pre- 
sented to her at different expositions, where the laces 
of her school had been exhibited. 

The Countess Brazza presides over several schools 
in the district of Friuli that is one of the most pros- 
perous agricultural sections in Italy, rich not only in 
soil but in air, and has the double advantage of near- 
ness to both mountain and sea, which makes the 
climate very invigorating. Here was once a favorite 
Venetian stronghold, and it doubtless looks much 
the same to-day as when attacked by Attila nearly 
fifteen centuries ago. One sees here and there the 
pretty churches with their stately bell towers, sepa- 
rated from the main structure, as is the custom in 
Venezia. These people lived under the rule of the 

[308] 



LACES MADE BY FOUR DIFFERENT SCHOOLS OF THE 
INDUSTRIE FEMMINILI 




FILET LACE FROM THE SCHOOL OF THE COUNTESS TAVERNA AT COMO 




LACE WORK FROM THE SCHOOL OF THE 
COUNTESS CAVAZZA AT BOLOGNA 



;',!,i?»ir'ss-**i'i"i* is li 



i^"n"-.i^h^»h^hmifhi 



^ Si 

I ^ I 

pa 

m 



*<t-S?ii"«i''-ii»^ii^'n-***«%i"-s^Sk'?%i*^ 



d'iK'•^^^^l^««•!'it•?'«'%^"=•-=-«-''=t*''-•-• 



LACE AND EMBROIDERY FROM THE SCHOOL 
OF SIGNORINA AMARI AT TRESPIANO 




LACE FROM THE SCHOOL OF THE MARCHESA DE VITI DE MARCO AT PESCOCOSTANZO 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Venetian Republic for many years, and are still repub- 
licans in their sentiments, rather than royalists ; they 
remind one one strongly of the Swiss. 

In the lace schools established here, little girls 
from seven years and upwards are taken as pupils, and 
though they have much to do in the fields at certain 
seasons, they manage to give considerable time to 
their lace work. The youngest scholars begin, of 
course, with the simplest designs and the easiest 
stitches. The teachers receive from four to eight 
dollars a month, and the best pupils earn about 
sixty dollars a year, a large sum for this land, where 
the living is so inexpensive. Naturally this is a great 
assistance to the families, and many a girl at the time 
of her marriage finds herself the possessor of an unus- 
ually large dot for the vicinity in which she lives. 
Besides the financial help to the district, there are 
other equally important benefits to the people, for 
the peasants have learned that time is money, and 
when the weather makes it impossible to work in 
the fields, they can still earn their day's wage with 
their lace. In the school they make about two 
cents an hour, more in proportion than they would 
get for a long day's work in the field, where they 
are paid seventeen cents a day. 

Besides, the Countess Brazza has tactfully and 

[309] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

cleverly taught the value of cleanliness, a difficult task, 
for many of the Italian peasants are not altogether 
cleanly in their habits. The appeal to the vanity of 
the girls seems to have met with complete success, 
the pretty white aprons and short white sleeves have 
worked the magic, so that now the girls of fifteen 
and eighteen are clean as well as capable; realizing 
the improvement in themselves, they insist upon it 
in their families, as well as in their suitors. Not 
satisfied with having brought about all this good, the 
Countess has done much to raise the moral standard 
of the whole community. For instance, the first 
prize given once a year on Prize-day goes to the girl 
who has shown the best self-control, is most orderly 
and truthful, and the prize is a golden three-leafed 
clover on a gold chain. The second prize rewards 
the co-operative spirit, and is given to the girl who 
has taught the most to her friends. In fact all sec- 
tions of the school are run on a co-operative plan. 
When a girl has learned one or two stitches, she is 
expected to teach them to her companions, before 
she herself learns the third. The third and last prize, 
consisting of a fully equipped cushion for lace work, 
is given to the girl who has done the best work. 

In studying the economic value of the sales of lace 
in most countries, we find that the middle-man gen- 

[310] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 
crally makes large profits over and above the price 
paid to the women who make the lace, and the mer- 
chant who sells it; but through these lace schools of 
the Industrie Femminiliy all this injustice will be done 
away with. The Countess told me that the Society, 
after paying four per cent, on its stock, as well as 
allowing a discount to stockholders on their pur- 
chases, betters the condition of its wage-earners by 
dividing among them the net profits. 

The Society receives work from any Italian woman 
who makes artistic things, which must meet, of 
course, the approval of the committee on inspection, 
and one sees in the shop where I have been this after- 
noon, not only lace and embroideries, linens and tex- 
tiles, but also work in tortoise shell, coral, leather 
and wood, mosaics, engravings on glass, porcelain, 
enamel and especially beautiful reproductions of old 
book illuminations. 

The Countess talked to me a good deal about the 
new project that she is about to put into execution. It 
is bound to be a success, if she is at the head of it, as 
she is a woman of great executive ability. She told 
me that during this year she means to establish a 
summer school, where women from any country, 
bearing proper references, may come and study, at 
sthe same time enjoying good food and lodging at 

[3"] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

reasonable rates. Instruction will be given very in- 
expensively in languages, music, painting, archae- 
ology, folk-lore and agriculture. The school will 
remain open until November 1 1 th, as the climate at 
Torreano di Martignaccio is particularly healthful, 
and as the surrounding country is very beautiful, it 
seems to me to be a delightful as well as an original 
undertaking. Here, as in the schools, the main ob- 
ject is not commercial gain, but rather to bring to- 
gether the women of many different countries, that 
each may know the other better, and gain a wider 
international outlook on the world. The school is to 
be called the Santa Margherita Summer School, after 
the mountain Santa Margherita, which rises about 
eight hundred feet above the Adriatic in the vicinity. 
The Countess asked me to come this afternoon to 
the shop where the works are exhibited ; and every- 
thing is as dainty and artistic as possible. At one 
end is a sort of little room for afternoon tea, and 
various ladies interested in the Society are quite apt 
to drop in about five o'clock, so over the tea and 
cakes, I learned from the ladies themselves many 
interesting details of the work done, and their hopes 
for the future. The beautiful Princess Venosa, a 
sister-in-law of the Countess Taverna, was there with 
her niece, the Countess Martini-Marescotti. To my 

[312] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

way of thinking the young Countess is the most 
beautiful woman in Rome, always excepting the 
Queen. She was born the Princess Ruspoli, and is 
quite as charming as she is beautiful, though she 
seems perfectly unconscious of her attractions. She 
was dressed in very smart tailor suit, and I find that 
many of the Italian women have quite out-done us 
Americans in the art of wearing good tailor clothes. 
I think many of the dress-makers in America have 
urged fussed-up French model coats because they go 
out of fashion so soon, but surely they are not nearly 
as pretty as these trig, plain tailor-mades. The Italian 
women have beautiful figures, and of course are just 
the ones to be set off by plain lines. 

It is extremely difficult to keep the relationships 
of the various ladies I meet quite clear in my mind. 
The family name one rarely hears, and when a lady 
refers to her sister-in-law, her aunt or cousin, it is very 
confusing to place the woman, the name and the 
title all at once. However, all the ladies are very 
kind, and if I make a mistake they set me right with 
such a pleasant explanation that puts me quite at my 
ease. The Italian women of rank certainly have 
the most graceful manners of any women that I 
know. 

I bought a very pretty illuminated frame to-day 

[313] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

for your picture, and wanted to buy half the store, the 
things were so lovely. When we were ready to go Prin- 
cess Venosa asked us to come to her reception on Fri- 
day evening. We were there last week, and I think it 
was very kind of her to ask us again. Just as we 
were going, a number of newspaper men came in to 
interview Countess Brazza, and that was the last we 
saw of her. Donna Bice Tittoni had come in for a 
cup of tea with the Venosa, as they say in Rome, 
for as almost all women in the fashionable world have 
titles, they get into the habit of leaving them out 
when speaking of each other ; you hear about the 
Ruspoli, the Taverna, the Colonna and you are sup- 
posed to know which is a princess, a countess, a mar- 
quise or a duchess. I think I must be getting quite 
Italian for all this is beginning to sound very natural, 
and I find I really do know who these various people 
are. 

At Cocolia, the Countess Pasolini has established 
a school of embroidery, with the aim of giving to the 
women a means of livelihood, which should not inter- 
fere with their daily household labor. Countess 
Spalletti brought to the towns of Luciano and Quar- 
rata, in Tuscany, the work al modano, made from 
authentic antique designs. The women in this school 
number over a hundred, and they are able to do the 

[314] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

work of the school, and also give the necessary atten- 
tion to their little families. 

At Pescocostanzo, the Signora Colecchi has 
founded a school to revive the old embroidery called 
spina di pesce (fishes' back-bone), a most complicated 
stitch in woven linen, where the stitch serves as a foun- 
dation for the design formed by the linen itself. In the 
same place, the Marchesa de Viti de Marco has 
revived the embroidery a viarella done now some- 
times by design, and sometimes according to the 
taste of the workwomen, showing in this way the 
innate artistic sense of these peasants. Here, I was 
told, there are two schools of embroidery, and some 
ladies have taken pains to gather about an Italian 
peasant, over eighty years old, some young girls in 
order that they may learn the secrets of some of the 
old tapestries known only to this peasant and in dan- 
ger of soon being lost forever. 

Pescocostanzo is a small town in the higher 
Abruzzi Mountains, in the Province of Aquila, just 
emerging from the isolation of the middle ages, and 
in the words of the Marchesa deViti de Marco, "with 
a keenly felt tradition of dignity and self-reliance." 
The origin of the town is uncertain, but tombs be- 
longing to remote antiquity have recently been dis- 
covered in its vicinity. Five hundred years ago, 

[315] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

as a fief of the Marquisate of Pescara, the town en- 
joyed the protection of Vittoria Colonna, and in the 
church may still be seen many monuments that tes- 
tify to the skill of the Pescolian artists, trained in 
Rome to a love of arts and crafts, through the 
interest of the gentle lady, whose domination was 
gladly accepted by them. In 1774, however, 
Ferdinand IV, King of the Two Sicilies, bought 
the barony and bestowed its freedom upon Pesco, an 
incident unique in the history of this monarch. 
Thus it happens that Pescocostanzo has on its shield 
no device of feudal servitude. There were in the 
town three classes, the gentry, the artisans and the 
peasants. The upper class derived its wealth from 
rent, and from the flocks and herds which grazed in 
summer in the uplands, and in winter found free 
grazing land below on the great table lands of Apu- 
lia. Formerly the Pescolians beautified with their 
handiwork the other towns in the Abruzzi Moun- 
tains, as well as their own, but to-day the artisans, as 
well as the shepherds and farmers, are emigrating to 
America in search of an honest livelihood, while the 
burden of caring for the farm falls upon the women 
left at home. Their task is indeed hard, for they 
must labor by day in the field, and with their bob- 
bins at night, in order that the pittance required for 

[316] 



PORTRAIT OF VITTORIA COLONNA IN THE 
COLONNA GALLERY 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the support of their family may be obtained by their 
constant effort. 

Each part of Italy has an individuality of its own, 
and in the laces produced in various parts of the 
country, one sees the same marked characteristics 
that distinguish the exquisite arts, which the traveler 
admires in journeying through Italy. Indeed, it used 
to be true, that one could only obtain Genoese silver 
and gold in Genoa, Florentine mosaics only in Flor- 
ence, Venetian chains only in Venice, Roman gold 
and Roman silks only in Rome, corals and turquoise 
shells much better in Naples than anywhere else; but 
now, the railroad has changed all this, although it is 
still true that the best of each specialty is to be 
found in the place where it is originally made. In 
the same way, each little Italian city has its own 
special characteristics, and the work of the women of 
each district bears its own individual imprint. This 
town of Pescocostanzo seems to be especially inter- 
esting as a type of southern Italy, with its generosi- 
ties, its enthusiasms and singular lack of method. The 
laces made in this part of the country form the chief 
interest of the women who, for many months in 
the year, live almost a cloistered life. The winters 
are extremely cold and long in these mountains, and 
the summer, that comes late, ends early, so that 

[317] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the women rarely leave their homes, and usually find 
their lace-making an outlet for their energy and in- 
terests. As the Marchesa de V. has aptly said, "The 
Orientals weave prayers into their carpets, but to 
these women their work is in itself a form of prayer/' 
She says that one may still find hundreds of indus- 
trious women who rarely leave their homes, but live 
in a world apart, absorbed in lace-making and its 
technical problems. The finding of a new stitch, 
the working out of an old design from fragments of 
paper carefully preserved in some old chest, thus per- 
petuating the work of hands long since vanished, 
make up the major part of their lives. 

"To define these designs in which the idea is 
often barely suggested, implies an affinity of senti- 
ment with the dreamer who first thought them out, 
and this feeling, together with the special manual 
facility of execution, seems almost a hereditary gift 
of Pescocostanzo. To these souls enveloped in a 
mediaeval silence, the lace work offers almost the 
only outlet for imagination or for the inner religious 
feeling. How many are the dreams recorded in the 
lace, with what mystic fervor and devout heart are 
the sacred symbols traced in the work destined for 
the church!'' The life to-day in this little town, 
whose solitude was disturbed four years ago by the 

[318] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

railroad, is but little changed from the days when 
Vittoria Colonna was the first lady of the land, and 
where she would find herself to-day probably quite 
as much at home as ever. 

In the first exposition of the Women's Work in 
Rome, the exhibit from Pescocostanzo attracted 
much interest and admiration and was awarded a 
diploma of the first-class. The Marchesa is also 
much interested in a school she has started in Cas- 
amassella, which is proving very successful. I have 
written you before about the charming and talented 
Marchesa herself, of her lovely palace, of her many 
kindnesses to me and of her generous admiration of 
my voice. 

The Marchesa Romegne Ranieri di Sorbello, nee 
Romaine Roberts, has also a school at Passignano, 
near Perugia, where most curious embroideries on 
linen are done. Here are three of the most ener- 
getic workers in this Society (the Countess Brazza, 
the Marchesa di Viti de Marco, the Marchesa di 
Sorbello), all bearing long and noble Italian names; 
but we are proud to claim them as American women, 
who have gone into the Old World, and are not only 
a credit to the titles that they bear, but an honor to 
the name of womanhood, for the energy and ability 
they have shown in advancing the condition of 

[319] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

woman in the country which they have adopted as 
their own. 

You can see from what I have written what a 
splendid work is being carried on by the noble 
women of Italy. Perhaps you will read this letter 
to some of your friends^ for I hope to interest the 
people at home, and I am sure I shall be able to do 
so. The ladies this afternoon were kind enough to 
make me one of the members of the Society, so that 
I feel now a right as well as an interest in doing all 
that I can for the Industrie Femminili Italiane, 



[320J 



XXXVIII. 
To T. C. B. 

Rome, Italy, April i, 1905 

My dear P.; 

YESTERDAY morning I had a most satis- 
factory sing with Sgambati. After lunch 
we left a few cards, and then went to call 
on the Countess Sanminiatelli, who introduced me 
to the Countess della Salla, another charming New 
Orleans woman married in Italy. 

Last Sunday afternoon we went again to call on the 
Countess Bruschi, who receives every Sunday, before 
five, in her lovely big apartment in the Piazza delle 
Terme. Just as we were going out, we met her two 
pretty little daughters. The Countess is so very 
young looking that it seemed impossible that these 
young girls could be her children. 

On our way home we stopped for a call on Mrs. 
Morris, but did not find her, so we went down the 
Spanish steps to the Piazza for tea. On the steps, 
going either up or down, we always meet some of 
the scholars of the various Roman Catholic semi- 

[321] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 
naries, who frequently walk up to the Pincio in the 
afternoon. The English and French seminaries 
wear black gowns; the Scotch, violet soutanes, red 
girdles and black cloaks, but the Germans and Hun- 
garians wear gowns and cloaks of the brightest 
scarlet, so F. B. and I always call them the " red 
devils." Our American students wear black gowns 
with blue linings and red girdles, so when we see 
any of our own students in or about St. Peter's, or 
the Vatican, we ask them for various explanations 
and invariably find them most polite. 

Just before going in to dress for dinner, we ran 
across the street to the church of the Cappucini; 
the real name is Santa Maria della Concezione, but 
nobody ever calls it that. We were glad to refresh 
our memories with a good look at the famous St. 
Michael by Guido Reni, of which we see a copy 
whenever we go to St. Peter's. F. B. insisted on 
my going down for a hurried look at the ghastly 
burial vaults, where the bones of four thousand de- 
parted Capuchins are arranged as a wall decoration. 
It was so dreadfully cold there, that we did not dare 
to stay longer than a very few moments. 

Well, my dinner last night for Lady X, went off 
very nicely; the table was pretty with hot-house 
roses and lilacs sent from Nice, and every one seemed 

[322] 



HIS EXCELLENCY SIGNOR TITTONI, 

MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS AND ITALy's FOREMOST STATESMAN 




COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY TRYPHOSA BATES BATCHELLER 



4- <^nrf ^^^^..aM/^^ 




dH^V'i-^-^'K^-^^L.y^ 




GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

to have a good time. His Excellency Signor Tittoni 
was on my right, and I enjoyed so much hearing him 
explain why there are so many interprovincial tariffs. 
Of course, Italy is perfectly united, nevertheless the 
influence of past centuries is not to be done away with 
in a moment, and the large cities of provinces, which 
were once kingdoms, feel that they must protect 
their own specialties ; still it is all much better than 
it used to be, and you now see Neapolitan coral in 
Milan and the Genoese silver in Rome, though you 
have to pay somewhat dearer for it than in the city 
where it is made. Signor Tittoni speaks English 
extremely well, for he received part of his education 
at Oxford, England. He is a brilliant man, a great 
diplomat, and recently when the Cabinet all resigned, 
the King looked to him for a solution of the difficul- 
ties, and while His Majesty did not wish to give him 
up as Minister of Foreign Affairs, for the time being 
he begged him to take the Prime Minister's folio. 

Donna Bice was as animated and fascinating as 
usual last night, and wore a tres reussie Parisian 
gown of pink velvet. How much prettier these soft 
velvets are than the stiff ones people used to wear ! 
Lady X. was in half mourning, but black is very 
becoming to her. The Countess Taverna, who sat 
next to F. B., looked as lovely as she always does — 

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' GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and what do you think ! Prof. Helbig actually came 
to the dinner ; he disHkes going out so much that I 
feared he would not come, but I begged his mother 
to intercede for me, with the result that he not only 
came, but made himself perfectly delightful to every- 
one. Why is it that men who know so well how to 
be agreeable are generally those who do not care a 
bit about society ? 

The dining-room was quite gay last night. Next 
to our big table (there were fourteen of us) Donna 
Franca Florio was giving a dinner for H. E. the 
Marchesa L. di Rudini, and I especially noticed the 
Duchess of Terranova, who is a real Spanish beauty. 
At another table Mme. Patti (Baronne Cederstrom) 
and her husband were dining with the Baronne von 
Bildt, and at a small table near by were Mr. and Mrs. 
Lehr of New York. After dinner, all those giving 
parties had little alcoves arranged in the Palm Garden 
for their special guests, and with the liqueurs nearly 
all the women smoked — it is quite the usual thing 
here, but, of course, I always decline the cigarettes, 
on account of my throat. 

At about eleven o'clock, when our guests had 
left, we followed the Countess Taverna, who had 
gone on before to the Princess Venosa's recep- 
tion. One after another of the friends who had 

[324] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

been dining with us, came in, and we had a very- 
pleasant evening. 

I had a charming letter to-day from Mr. Henry- 
White, Secretary of the American Embassy at Lon- 
don, who, as you know, has been recently appointed 
Ambassador to Rome — ^fortunate Rome and unlucky 
London! Two or three English people said to me, 
only yesterday, "I am sure I do not know what we 
shall do in London without Mr. and Mrs. White. 
No one in American diplomatic service has ever had 
more friends or greater diplomatic success than he. 
The King and Queen thought a great deal of the 
Whites, dined at their house, and showed them many 
unusual attentions." I agree with all this, but every 
one knows Mr. White will make an ideal Ambassa- 
dor. Mrs. White, too, is just the sort of a person 
to be admired and appreciated in Rome, and, of 
course, Muriel's friends will be legion wherever she 
goes. One young Italian nobleman asked me if the 
daughter of the new Ambassador knew how to flirt . 
I told him I could not answer as to that, but that 
everyone thought her beautiful and charming. 

Flirter has been adopted into the Italian and French 
languages, so somebody must have done some flirting 
somewhere, which, I suppose, accounts for the ques- 
tion. 

[325] 



XXXIX 

To E. F. D. B. 

Rome, Italy, April 2, 1905 

My dear M. : 

WE have had such an interesting afternoon. 
The day was so fine, we thought we 
would take a drive in Margherita Park, 
Passeggiata Margherita, as it is called here, and come 
home by way of Mme. Helbig's villa. She is at 
home every afternoon but Tuesday, when she goes 
to her hospital for sick children. 

Spring is surely here; the air is soft and balmy, 
and flowers are beginning to be everywhere in the 
parks. One can quite understand why the poets 
write about beautiful spring in Europe, especially in 
Italy. Most of our American poets have wisely 
turned to our beautiful New England autumn, for 
our springs do not inspire poetic feelings, especially 
windy days in Boston. 

When we reached the Villa Lante, the door stood 
open, and we heard sounds of music. F. B. and I 
tiptoed into the big music -room, and there sat 

[326] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Madame at one grand piano, an Italian gentleman at 
another, and a lovely Tschaikovsky duet was going 
on. What beautiful music that wonderful man has 
written! I was quite lost in the enjoyment of the 
music, when Madame, suddenly spying me, called: 
"Come on, dear Paragon, I want you to sing your 
* Magic Flute' for all these people." There were 
several ambassadors, attaches and a number of distin- 
guished ladies present, who had met partly by chance 
and partly because " Dame Rumor '' had been busy, 
and given an inkling that on this afternoon one might 
hear Madame Helbig play. Before I knew it Mme. 
Helbig had Mozart's "Magic Flute" score before her 
on the piano, and was playing the opening bars of the 
aria. One of the musicians present rushed to the 
piano and said, "Surely you are not going to sing it 
in the original key;" but dear Madame waved him 
aside, laughingly saying, "Oh yes, we are!" and I 
began. She plays with splendid fire and enthusiasm; 
the whole atmosphere was music, everybody there 
was musical or intensely interested in music, and I 
was anxious that my voice should be up to the mark 
for dear Madame's sake. I had not thought of singing 
for her to-day, but, fortunately, as it happened, I had 
eaten a light lunch, and the song went off very nicely. 
When I finished, everyone rushed around the piano 

[327] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and Mme. H. said, "There! You say there are 
no miracles now-a-days ; there is a miracle; that little 
woman's throat does not look different from any one 
else's, yet she takes that high F. with as much ease 
as you or I say good morning. Don't talk ta 
me about fairy tales, there is more truth in many of 
them, than in most of the story books." Then she 
went on to tell us of some wonderful scientific ex- 
periments that have been made in the production of 
sound waves; when the vibrations have become im- 
possible for the human ear to hear, a cat's hair is seen 
to stand up straight, and the animal prances about 
with fury or delight, impossible to say which. You see,. 
Mme. H. is a great scientist as well as a great musi- 
cian; indeed she is a very remarkable woman in 
every way, and I have greatly enjoyed and appre- 
ciated her friendship for me. 

The wife of Mon. Kroupenski, who is at pres- 
ent the Conseiller d'Etat and Chamberlain of His 
Majesty the Czar of Russia, was very charming, and 
I enjoyed a nice little talk with her. Mme. H. in- 
troduced me to several other people about whom I 
will try to write you later, but these days are 
very busy. 

On our way home we stopped at the old church of 
Sant' Onofrio, where the poet Torquato Tasso i& 

[328] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

buried. We went into the church to see his monu- 
ment that was erected in 1857, by Pius IX, and then 
on into the adjoining monastery of the Order of St. 
Jerome. It was built in 1430, in honor of the Egyp- 
tian hermit, Honuphrius. There are only a few of 
the monks left, as the order has been suppressed, 
though those already here are allowed to remain, but 
no new friars can be added to the order. One of these 
old monks showed us the room where Tasso lived, 
and where, when about to receive his crown of laurels 
on the capitol from Pope Clement VIII, he died 
on the 25th of April, 1595. Poor Tasso ! What a 
sad life was his ! You remember his early life was 
passed in the service of the Cardinal d'Este, whom 
he accompanied on various diplomatic missions, and 
who brought him into relations with his brother, the 
then reigning Duke of Ferrara. Here he lived 
happily for several years, and enjoyed the intimate 
friendship of the Duke and his two beautiful sisters, 
Lucrezia and Eleonora. In 1575 his great epic 
poem,** Gerusalemme Liberata,'' was completed; but a 
strange melancholy took possession of him, it is gen- 
erally believed on account of his deep love for the 
Princess Eleonora, whom, of course, he could not 
hope to marry. He grew suspicious, saw a secret 
enemy in everyone, and finally fled from the court. 

[329] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

With rest and quiet, his mind became clear once 
more. Twice he returned to the Court of Ferrara, 
and twice the disease seized his mind. At last his 
manners and general actions became so strange that 
the Duke confined him in a lunatic asylum, where 
he remained seven years. During this time all 
Europe read his great work, and his name became 
one of the greatest of his age. He wrote a number 
of beautiful lyrical poems, a pastorale, some essays, 
letters, etc. In 1586, after his release from Ferrara, 
he settled at Naples, but he was homesick and suf- 
fering, and when Pope Clement VIII invited him 
to come to Rome to be crowned on the capitol, 
he died before the solemnity took place. 

Shelley's song for the poet came to us as we drove 
past the shattered oak tree, under which Tasso used 
to sit, and which is marked by a tablet to his memory. 

''I ioved — alas ! our life is love ; 
But, when we cease to breathe and move, 
I do suppose love ceases too. 
I thought (but not as now I do) 
Keen thoughts and bright of linked lore, — 
Of all that men had thought before. 
And all that Nature shows, and more. 
And still I love, and still I think 
But strangely, for my heart can drink 
The dregs of such despair, and live. 
And love. 

[330] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

And, if I think, my thoughts come fast ; 
I mix the present with the past, 
And each seems uglier than the last. 

Sometimes I see before me flee 

A silver spirit's form, like thee, 

O Leonora ! and I sit 

. . . still watching it. 

Till by the grated casement's ledge 

It fades, with such a sigh as sedge 

Breathes o'er the breezy streamlet's edge." 



[331] 



XL 

To T. C. B. 

Rome, Italy, April 4, 1905 
My dear P.; 

YESTERDAY morning we received an 
invitation from Lady Egerton to a small 
reception she was giving for Their Royal 
Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Connaught, 
their daughter. Princess Margaret, and her fiance. 
Prince Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden, and their 
other daughter. Princess Victoria Patricia. The 
Duke and Duchess, who are staying but a few days in 
Rome, have received a great deal of attention from 
Their Majesties, the King and Queen, and Her 
Majesty Queen Margherita gave a dinner for them 
at her palace. 

Lady Egerton sent word that she would be 
pleased if I would sing, and naturally I was very 
glad to do so. The British Embassy is one of 
the finest in Rome, and Lady Egerton has made the 
great ball-room look delightfully home-like. She is 
exceedingly clever in her arrangement of furniture 
and bric-a-brac, for, as you know, it is very difficult 
to make an immensely large room an attractive liv- 

[332] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ing-room. There were not many people at the 
reception, and directly after we arrived Lady Egerton 
kindly presented me to Her Royal Highness the 
Duchess. Some one had told me that we should be 
expected to stand all the evening, but that was 
entirely wrong, for everything was informal ; while 
no one was presented to the Duke, everyone was 
made to feel quite comfortable, and the Duchess 
was graciousness itself. After I had exchanged 
greetings with a few of the ladies. Donna Bice Tit- 
toni, Mrs. Lamb and others. Lady Egerton asked if 
I would sing, kindly offering to play my accom- 
paniments. I began with a Mozart aria, and 
then sang some modern French songs ; after- 
wards Prof. Sgambati played two of his own com- 
positions most delightfully ; a lady with a fine 
" mezzo *' voice sang some German songs and then 
Lady Egerton asked me to sing an aria from the 
^' Magic Flute." When I finished, H. R. H. the 
Duke left his chair and was kind enough to say that 
he would like to meet me. He said some extremely 
kind things about my singing, and was interested to 
learn that I knew President and Mrs. Roosevelt. 

So we had a mutual admiration talk about Presi- 
dent Roosevelt, whom the Duke admires extremely — 
in fact, everyone here seems to have the most intense 

[333I 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

admiration for Mr. Roosevelt. His Royal Highness 
asked about Mrs. Roosevelt, and of course I had only 
pleasant things to tell him, and added that she has 
been very kind to me. He asked if I would sing 
again, and knowing that the Duchess is German, I 
sang two modern German songs, the last one a very 
brilliant Canzonetta from an opera by Meyer-Hel- 
mund, ending with a trill "a mile long," as the girl 
said. I am sure you will remember the song I mean. 
When I had finished, the Duchess came to me 
in the most charming way and said, "You must 
have spent many years in study to acquire such 
perfect technique, and you sing with so much feeling 
as well." I said I was very happy if I had been able 
to please her, and we had a nice little talk about 
music generally, for the Duchess is said to be one of 
the most musical of the Royalties of Europe. 

Their Royal Highnesses withdrew early, as their 
days are very much occupied, and, soon after their 
withdrawal, everyone else left. 

Lady Egerton is assuredly a charming hostess, 
knows just what to do and how to do it in the 
nicest way possible. She looked very handsome 
last night in a black satin gown heavily embroidered 
in jet, and wore some beautiful pearls. The Duch- 
ess wore a soft gray dress which was very becoming 
to her blonde coloring. She looks almost as young 

[334I 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

as her pretty daughters, whom we also met, and has 
such simple gracious manners. I have heard Blanche 
Marchesi enthuse so much about Her Highness, who 
has been very kind to her, that I was especially in- 
terested and pleased to have the honor of meeting 
her. The Royal party will soon go to England, 
as the marriage of Princess Margaret and Prince 
Gustavus Adolphus is set for a day early in June, I 
am told. 

Princess Margaret will make a beautiful bride, she 
is such a sweet-looking girl, as indeed is her sister, 
and they both have their mother's charm of man- 
ner. The Duchess is much beloved in England, 
and I do not wonder. She was the daughter of Prince 
Frederick Charles of Prussia. 

To-morrow is a very busy day, so I must not write 
more to-night. 



[335] 



XLI 

To E. F. D. B. 

Rome, Italy, April 6, 1905 
My dear M. : 

THE last three days we have lived in a whirl ; 
Tuesday we drove up to the Gianicolo to 
say good-bye to Mme. Helbig ; in the after- 
noon we made a lot of calls, and in the evening we 
went to the second of the Princess d'Antuni's bril- 
liant receptions. Everybody was there, and the Prin- 
cess took special care of me, and made my evening 
thoroughly enjoyable. 

While I was singing with Bustini and SettaccioUi 
yesterday morning, a message came from the British 
Embassy, asking me to send my album back by the 
messenger. Naturally I was pleased, and I am sure 
you will be gratified to learn that Their Royal High- 
nesses, the Duke and Duchess of Connaught, the 
Princesses Margaret and Victoria Patricia and Prince 
Gustavus Adolphus, have all written their names in 
my album, which was returned last evening. 

In the afternoon we went to call on the Marchesa 
de Viti de Marco ; who should we meet there but 

[336] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Mrs. Beerbohm Tree and her daughter, who are on 
a four weeks' jaunt from the fogs of London. Mrs. 
Tree is very attractive, listened with interest to my 
account of the sale that was going on at the Hotel 
Splendide of the laces of the Industrie ; and later, when 
I went in to see how the sale was progressing, Mrs. T. 
was going out with an armful of purchases. I had 
tea with the Countess Taverna and Donna Bice, and 
ran into the Marchesa Cappelli's for a last Wednesday. 
I am quite sad that these are my last days with these 
dear women, who I begin to feel are becoming real 
friends. 

The Countess Prezezdziecka, a charming Polish 
woman to whom I was introduced the other evening 
at the Antuni's, sent over and asked us to come to 
her reception this evening. The Marchesa Lucifero- 
Speyer also had a reception, but as I am singing to- 
morrow, I feel that I must give up these alluring 
invitations. 

Friday we are going out to Tivoli if the weather 
is fine. 



[337] 



XLII 

TlVOLI 

Rome, Italy, April 7, 1905. 
My dear C. : 

TO-DAY has been filled to overflowing. 
Early in the morning we took the train for 
Tivoli. It was a bright, sunny day, and the 
Campagna was as ever most attractive. Arriving at 
the station, we took a cab to the little restaurant, 
driving the longest way round to get a better view 
of the world-famed water-falls of Tivoli. We ate 
our lunch on a terrace, from which we had lovely 
views of the mountains, ravines and numberless gush- 
ing water-falls, that were everywhere, beside and 
beneath us, while just above us was the beautiful 
little temple of Vesta. 

When one goes to Tivoli, it is not difficult to 
understand why there are so many fountains in 
Rome. The accumulated waters of the Sabine 
mountains seem to rush literally under the town. 
Two immense tunnels, one built centuries ago by 

[338] 



I 



< 

CO 

< 
< 

CO 

< 

DC 
H 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the Romans, and the other by one of the more recent 
Popes, prevent the disasters which formerly happened 
to the town from time to time, when the water 
swept away the foundations of the houses ; but there 
are, besides, numerous water-falls which rush out 
madly into the ravine below. 

After lunch we drove over to the western part of 
the town, to see the beautiful Villa d'Este, which, 
as you know, is one of the finest of the Renaissance 
period. It was begun for Cardinal Ippolito d'Este, 
but now belongs to the Archduke Francis Ferdinand 
of Austria-Este. 

In some of the rooms are a few damaged frescoes 
by Zucchero, odd designs of men or women, rep- 
. resented as coming through a door- way ; but the key- 
note of the whole place is water, water — arranged 
in cascades from one terrace to another, and in the 
most ingenious and fascinating way, fountains spring 
up at every turn in the beautiful pathways, while 
fern-grown grottoes, often shielding dainty statuettes, 
are on every side. 

We sat a long time near the wonderful group of 
old cypress trees that have been so often painted, and 
enjoyed first the view of the villa and fountains on 
the one side, then the broad Campagna stretching 
out toward Rome on the other. 

[339] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

The Cardinal d'Este had gorgeous ideas and gor- 
geous facilities, but his dream was never completed, 
and the whole place is fast becoming a ruin. 

Our merciless watches told us we must leave, if 
we were to see all the beauties of the Villa Adriana. 

There is so much to be seen there, and distances 
are so great, that we were very glad of the sedan 
chairs which we found at the entrance. An immense 
wall over two hundred yards long runs east and west 
at the entrance of this villa, so that one side is always 
in the shade. It seems to me that this is one of the 
most interesting ruins in Italy, and numerous works 
of art have been taken from here that are now 
among the treasures of the Vatican and Capitoline 
museums. The villa is mentioned only twice in 
ancient history, but the archaeologists have tried to 
fit the ruins with the description of Hadrian's biog- 
rapher Spartian. There are innumerable rooms and 
courts, some large, others small, and to them have 
been assigned names more or less correct, I suppose. 
The mosaics in the floors are exquisite, and it was in 
one of these small rooms that the famous mosaic of 
the ** doves of the fountain," that we see so often 
copied, was found. There are numerous subter- 
ranean halls for the passage of servants and slaves, 
and a ruin of an Egyptian temple, where Hadrian cele- 

[340] 



VIEW OF THE VILLA D'ESTE AT TIVOLI 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

brated festivals in the Egyptian manner. We decided 
to drive back and take the train at Bagni, and, as 
we had plenty of time, we walked all around to see 
these strange sulphur waters, which are of a peculiar 
blue, and incrust everything they touch. We reached 
Rome in time for dinner, and this evening we went 
to the reception of the Princess Venosa. It seems 
that there is to be an out-of-door fete given at one 
of the villas near Rome for charity, and some of the 
younger girls are going to sell flowers and candies, 
dressed in Louis XVI shepherdess costumes. Coun- 
tess Taverna's daughter is going in costume, as is also 
the daughter of the Princess d'Avella. They asked 
me about the shepherdess' hats, and I said that I 
thought the new fashions in Paris this spring were as 
near the old models as one could possibly find. 

I met the Princess Doria, who is a delightful 
English woman, sister of the Duke Newcastle, and 
also the pretty Duchess of Terranova. After we 
had a nice chat all around we went over to the 
Princess Poggio Suasa's. It was very late, and most 
people were going away as we came in, but we were 
very glad, for we had a pleasant visit with the Prin- 
cess and her sister, the Marquise, who, like our- 
selves, is soon going up to Paris. 

I am mailing you two letters at once, but one was 

[341] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

dated yesterday; I mislaid it under some papers, and 
could not find it at all, till I asked St. Anthony of 
Padua to come to my rescue, after the manner of 
the Italians, and, sure enough, I found it at once. 



[342] 



XLIII 
To E. F. D. B. 

ADELAIDE RISTORI 

Rome, Italy, April 9, 1905 
Bear M.: 

SOME time ago, I wrote you that I had met 
the daughter of the famous actress, Adelaide 
Ristori, who now lives in a fine old palace in 
the Via Montrone, and bears the name and title of 
the Marchesa Capranica del Grillo. I have seen 
quite a little of Donna Bianca, the daughter, who is 
one of the sweetest women I have met in Rome, and 
entirely devoted to her famous mother. 

For some time we have been trying to arrange a 
day when I could go to meet and sing to the great 
Ristori. A slight indisposition on her part, during 
the coldest of the weather, has made it impossible 
for her to receive her friends until recently. A few 
days ago, however, the much coveted invitation came, 
and yesterday I had tea with the woman who has 
been the greatest actress of her time, and who was in 
her prime the most beautiful woman in Italy. 

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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

She is now over eighty years of age, but as she 
came forward leaning on the arm of her daughter, 
she had the same majestic bearing that I have always 
admired so much in the photographs that we have 
of her at home. 

I was speaking one day of music and art with 
Donna Bianca, and in reference to Mme. Sembrich, I 
said, that I did not believe it was my dear friend's 
voice alone that had made her fame, nor her voice 
and art together, but rather the sweetness of her true 
womanhood, that was the crowning attraction to the 
great audiences that love her so much. "I think 
that was always true of my mother," Donna Bianca 
said; and I feel sure this must have been so, for 
Adelaide Ristori is a very noble and beautiful char- 
acter, as well as a great and distinguished artiste 
You will never make me believe, that the personal 
character of an artist does not have its psychical 
effect on an audience. I do not say, that in order to 
be an artist, one must be a beautiful character, but 
I do say that the greatest artists, those that are the 
most beloved by the most people, like Sembrich and 
Ristori, have almost invariably beautiful natures as 
well as great talent. 

As I drank my cup of tea, and sat chatting with this 
famous woman, who made herself very interesting and 

[344] 



LA MARCHESA CAPRANICA DEL GRILLO 

(ADELAIDE RISTORl) 




COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY TRYPHOSA BATES BATCHELLER 






/acj:_ 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

delightful to me, I wondered if I were in a dream or if it 
were really quite true. The great Marchesa asked me 
if I would sing for her, and I do not know when I ever 
enjoyed singing more than on that afternoon. As I 
finished, the dear woman took my hands in hers, 
saying, "You sing straight to the heart, I want to 
talk to you,'' and then she told me of some of her 
various experiences in her many travels around the 
world. " If you wish to be known everywhere, my 
dear, you must go everywhere, put up with many 
discomforts, learn to accommodate yourself to various 
customs, and to all sorts of people, and as you love 
your art and work, happiness and success will come 
to you. My life has been one long journey, you 
know." 

From the day she was born, Adelaide Ristori was des- 
tined for the theatre. The child of a mother and father 
who belonged to one of the small traveling troupes 
of the Italian stage, she first saw the foot-lights at 
the age of three months, when the enterprising di- 
rector gained an unwilling permission from her 
mother to introduce the little baby into a small 
comedy that the troupe was then giving, called " Les 
Etrennes." The story of the little scene was sup- 
posed to be one of reconciliation between a young 
girl, who had married against her parents' wishes, 

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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and the irate father. She had not the courage to 
confess her marriage or to present boldly her new 
baby to the family, so on this, the New Year's fete, 
she had conspired with an old servant of the house 
to place the baby in the basket, half hidden with 
the best fruits and flowers of the garden, which 
according to custom must be presented to the master 
of the house on this day. But little Adelaide had 
no intention of waiting for any cue to make her voice 
heard upon the stage, and not being able to devour 
the fruits, called lustily for her maternal consolation. 
All the actors were upset, and the curtain dropped 
amidst the general laughter of the audience. 

Her second debut was made at the age of three, 
where in one of the scenes, a very bad man was sup- 
posed to steal the child. The scene was quite ex- 
citing, and the little girl, feeling that she was really 
being stolen, bit and scratched at the poor actor, who 
was trying to hold her, until she freed herself and ran 
"willy-nilly" to the arms of her mamma. 

At twelve years of age she was regularly engaged 
for children's parts, and as she was tall, she began 
soon after to play the roles of young girls and in- 
genues. Her father, a man of great good sense, 
would not allow her to accept the brilliant ofl^ers 
Avhich were made her by several of the companies 

[346] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

travelling throughout Italy, but conscious that she 
must keep her health as well as continue her educa- 
tion, preferred that she should accept, as she did for 
a time, modest parts in the company known as the 
troupe of the King of Sardinia, which stayed for the 
greater part of the year at Turin. Almost immedi- 
ately she began to play important roles, and the hard 
work and many obstacles inevitable to the artist, only 
increased her enthusiasm for her art. She had the 
high-strung, sensitive nature of the artist — gay to-day, 
sad to-morrow; and she tells the amusing story, that 
once when she was not in the cast at the theatre, 
during a scene which represented a masquerade ball, 
she dressed herself in a domino, and pranced about 
the stage with the others, unmasking at the critical 
moment, to the great amusement of the audience, 
before the astounded actor who was playing the prin- 
cipal role. At other times, she became extremely 
sad, and used to take long walks in the cemetery, visit 
the insane asylums, and sometimes after the extreme 
nervous tension of some dramatic role, she would 
faint and become unconscious for a quarter of an 
hour at a time. 

At the age of eighteen her manager insisted that she 
should play the role of Mary Stuart. At first, it 
seemed to her beyond her strength and beyond her 

[347] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

possibilities, but there was nothing to do but resign 
herself and study. The night that preceded her first 
representation of the part she could not shut her 
eyes, but was very nervous, feverish and utterly lack- 
ing in her confidence to succeed. 

She said it seemed to her as if all the eyes of the 
audience contained sharp points which were sticking 
into her body. She seemed to hear people say, 
" Dear child, she can never play such a part,'' and 
then a horrible silence would follow, in which no 
one dared to applaud. Her sweet mother guided 
arid guarded her through these days of trial and 
worry, and her conscientious work brought her full 
success. 

I was struck by this frank admission of nervous- 
ness on the part of the great artist. I remember 
Sarasate, the well-known Spanish violinist, saying to 
me once when we were waiting our turn in a con- 
cert, in which we were both taking part, " Anyone 
who says he feels no emotion whatever when he 
faces a great audience lies." Of course he did not 
mean that everyone is terrified with fear, but I think 
myself when anyone steps on to the platform, before 
a great audience, he must feel a certain emotion. 
This must be scientifically true, as the personal vibra- 
tions of everyone in the audience must, just at first, 

[348] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

be directed to the person on the platform. After 
a few seconds have passed, the direct aim of the 
vibrations is dispersed, and the true artist gains 
his equiUbrium, loses his nervousness in the 
pleasure of his art and in his endeavor to please 
others. 

You will be interested to know that Ristori 

believes in the complete innocence and sweetness of 

the character of Mary Stuart. I remember your 

telling me how magnificent she was in the role of 

the injured and ill-used Queen of Scots. Ristori's 

life was not all sunshine and flowers, for it was only 

after repeated pleadings that Pope Pius IX gave 

his consent to her marriage with the young and 

handsome Marchese Capranica del Grillo, whose 

family bitterly opposed the match. There were 

months of waiting, anxiety and opposition, but at 

last all difficulties were overcome, the young lovers 

were married and received the blessing of the Pope, 

Fully recognizing his wife's great genius, the 

Marchese never failed to aid and encourage her in 

every possible way. For a time it seemed as if her 

domestic happiness would lessen her enthusiasm for 

her public career, but she had a great desire to prove 

to her own country, as well as to the world, the 

value of Italian art, which was rather being neg- 

[349] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

lected at that time, the public inclining to favor 
more especially pieces by French authors. In Paris 
she received the homage of all the great critics and 
dramatic writers, and, in fact, all over the world, 
where she carried her wonderful Italian art, she met 
with the same triumphs, and the same love and 
admiration were lavished upon her. No difficulties 
daunted or discouraged her, and so impressed did she 
become with the beauty of Shakespeare that she 
mastered the English language, and played the role 
of Lady Macbeth in English — a very difficult thing 
for an Italian to do. 

I remember Mon. B. of France describing to me 
his impressions of the sleep-walking scene in that 
play. He said it was the most wonderful piece of 
acting that he had ever seen. The marvellous way 
in which Ristori was able to keep the pupils of her 
eyes perfectly still, and to speak in a strange, veiled 
voice, such as one might use when walking in one's 
sleep, and yet to give the audience the definite picture 
of a woman morally and mentally ill, must have been 
extraordinary. She says that the steady strain of 
keeping the pupils of her eyes immovable, permanently 
injured her eye-sight. Throughout the whole scene 
she gave long, painful sighs, to give the impression 
that she was really in a nervous sleep. 

[350] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

She told us about a gala night in Naples, when she 
fell apparently without reason across the front of the 
stage into the foot-lights, and was only saved from 
being burned seriously by the brother of King Ferdi- 
nand of Naples, Count of Syracuse. Fortunately, the 
theatre was lighted with oil, and though her arm 
was burned badly, she persisted in continuing the 
performance. It was said at the time that the acci- 
dent was due to the presence in the theatre of a cele- 
brated jettatura, and the Count of Syracuse pre- 
sented her then and there with a rabbit's foot 
mounted in gold, saying, *^ I killed the beast myself, 
wear this bijou against all jettature of the future." 

It was at Madrid in the same year that Ristori says 
she passed the most memorable evening of her life 
As she drove to the theatre one evening, she heard 
the solemn ringing of a bell in the street by a monk. 
She asked the reason of this, and was told that a 
young soldier, called Nicolas Chapado, in a moment 
of anger, had put his hand to his sabre, and started to 
attack a sergeant, his superior officer, and had been 
condemned to die. The story filled the kind-hearted 
Marchesa with sadness, and while she was thinking 
of the unhappy man, as she made her toilet for the 
stage, a knock came on her door. Her husband 
went to find out what was wanted, and discovered 

[351J 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

that a number of people, knowing the great fondness 
of the Queen for Ristori, had come to beg her to in- 
tercede for the Hfe of the condemned man. They 
explained that the unhappy soldier was an excellent 
young man of irreproachable character, who had 
served eleven years in the army, and had been struck 
unjustly by his sergeant before his comrades. " But 
the Queen will think me foolish,'' cried Ristori, "I 
should never dare." She was quite upset at the idea 
that they looked to her to save the life of this man, 
but she was so tender-hearted, that she could not 
refuse to do her utmost. She sent out into the 
audience by a messenger that the Marchesa Capranica 
del Grillo desired to see the Marshal Narvaez Duke 
de Valence, President of the Council of the 
Ministers. Always polite, he came at once with his 
aide-de-camp, and though at first stern and severe, 
he could not but be moved by the pleadings of this 
wonderful woman. At last he said, " Well, if the 
Queen consents, I will not oppose, though only to- 
day I begged her tc be severe, as all clemency at this 
time is dangerous, for our revolutions nearly always 
begin in the army. Listen, Madame, in the entr'acte 
ask for an audience with Her Majesty, be as eloquent 
with her as you have been with me; the Queen 
adores you, she will tell you that the President of 

[352] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the Council opposes a pardon, she will call me; I will 
come, you may hope." Hardly had the Marshal 
left, when an anxious crowd overwhelmed her with 
questions, but she could say nothing. After the first 
act, an audience of the Queen was asked and granted, 
and at the feet of the Royal Lady Ristori begged for 
the life of this poor soldier. " Oh, Your Majesty, 
let my supplications reach your heart, and pardon a 
faithful subject who is really a good soldier, and who 
would give his life for Your Majesty; he but com- 
mitted an indiscretion in a moment of thoughtless- 
ness!" The Queen was much moved by the tears 
of the noble woman at her feet. " Calm yourself, 
Madame," she said, " I wished myself to grant him 
pardon, but the Marshal" — forgetting all etiquette 
and without perceiving that she was interrupting her 
Majesty, Ristori continued, " Deign then to express 
your clement intentions, and I know the Marshal 
will consent also." True to his promise, Narvaez 
came at once to the box, and bowed before his 
Sovereign. The Queen took Ristori's hand, saying, 
** Well, yes, yes, we will pardon him." As the 
public was becoming impatient, the Queen sent then 
and there for pen and paper, and having signed the 
act of pardon, said to Ristori, " There ! At least one 
tragedy is well ended. Keep this pen, which shall 

[353] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

remain for you and yours a blessed souvenir " ; and 
Ristori, her precious gift in her hand, with a heart 
bounding with joy, announced to the impatient 
crowd awaiting the decision, that the pardon had 
been granted. 

A few moments afterward, when she appeared 
upon the scene, a tremendous demonstration of 
cheers and vivas resounded from all parts of the 
house : the name of the Queen alternating with 
that of Ristori. "I bowed to the Royal box,'' she 
said, "for I would not accept for myself the gratitude 
of the public, but I heard the Queen distinctly say 
in a loud voice, pointing to me, 'No — no, it is she — 
it is she.' '' Ristori says that she owes to this Queen 
the most memorable evening of her existence, and 
she has always carefully treasured the pen which 
signed the pardon of the life of an honest man. 

In Holland, where she played in 1859, she met 
with the same enthusiasm, particularly in Utrecht, 
where apparently the whole city met her at the sta- 
tion, and made such a demonstration in the streets 
and in front of her hotel, that the King said, " It is 
too small for a revolution, but too large for a demon- 
stration.'* Nevertheless the King and Queen went 
often to her representations and presented her with 
the Gold Medal of Artistic Merit of Holland. 

[354] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

So it was everywhere, young and old, great and 
small, admired her alike, and she received decorations 
and medals from nearly every crowned head in the 
civilized world ; playing now at the winter palace of 
the Czar and Czarina of Russia; now at the private 
birthday festival of Emperor William of Germany; now 
in Paris, where the Emperor Napoleon lavished upon 
her decorations and attentions; now in South Amer- 
ica, where the Emperor, Dom Pedro, became one of 
her fast friends, as well as her admirer ; and in our own 
America, the same admiration and applause greeted 
her, whenever she did us the honor to come to our 
shores. 

She says that the most remarkable return from the 
playhouse that she ever had, was in Havana, Cuba. 
When she left the theatre, the enthusiastic Cubans 
tried to unharness her horses and drag her carriage 
themselves. She was at last able to prevent this, but 
she could not prevent the enthusiastic youths from 
climbing all over her carriage, at the risk of break- 
ing their legs in the wheels. She was literally 
buried with bouquets, and she said, "I have often 
been haunted by the magic spectacle of that night in 
the tropics, where, under the star-lit sky, I passed in 
review this vast crowd, as if I had been a Queen. 
On each side was a living hedge of the most elegant 

[355] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

people of Cuba in evening dress, throwing me kisses 
and flowers, while the coachmen, all negroes, were 
hardly able to- restrain their horses, frightened by the 
light of the torches held all along the road I was to 
go. Of the thousand and one nights that I have 
passed in coming back from the theatre by star-light, 
that was certainly the most brilliant/' 

The last night that Ristori appeared upon the 
stage was in New York, when at the urgent invita- 
tion of a German company, she consented to play 
Mary Stuart, speaking her lines in English while the 
rest of the company played in German. It was a 
very risky thing to do, and at first she was not at all 
willing to undertake it, but her great art made all 
things possible. 

Many other interesting things, her daughter. 
Donna Bianca, has been kind enough to tell me, and 
has put into my hands material which has enabled 
me to learn much more about the great Ristori than 
I have known or realized before, as, of course, I 
am far too young to have ever seen her act. Donna 
Bianca speaks with much enthusiasm of Boston and 
Bostonians, and referred to the many kindnesses that 
Mrs. John L. Gardner had shown her mother and 
herself, when they were last in America. 

The Marchese Giorgio, Donna Bianca's brother, 

[356] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

is a Gentleman-in- Waiting to Her Majesty Queen 
Margherita, and is a very interesting man. 

On the eightieth birthday of Adelaide Ristori, a 
representation of some play was given in every theatre 
in Italy, and the proceeds sent to the great artist of 
w^hom Italy is so proud, and whom it so justly loves 
and honors. 

But the great Marchesa would not accept pecuniary 
offerings. She thanked the country for its beautiful 
tribute, but used the money to establish a home for 
aged or infirm actresses. It was like her great heart 
to do for others of the profession that she has raised 
so high, who have been less fortunate and less gifted 
than herself. 



[357] 



XLIV 

To E. F. D. B. 

Rome, Italy, April ii, 1905 
My dear M,: 

WE had planned to go to Frascati this 
morning, but it was too rainy, so we 
drove up to the Villa Borghese, to take a 
last look at our favorite works of art in the galleries 
there. Mine is Bernini's group of Apollo and 
Daphne, but F. B. prefers Canova's Pauline Bona- 
parte. 

After dinner we called upon Miss Cochrane, and 
with her drove to see the famous singer Clara Novella 
now the Countess Gigliucci. She is a very interest- 
ing woman, and told us many of her experiences. I 
sang one or two songs for her, off-hand, F. B. play- 
ing my accompaniments ; she said she had read a 
great deal about my voice, and was anxious to hear 
it. We were sorry that we had to hurry away, but 
we did not like to miss Signora de Filippi's reception. 
Signor de Filippi, as I think I wrote you, is the Presi- 
dent of the Aeronaut Club in Rome, and has made 
thirty ascensions this year in a balloon; on each occa- 

[358] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

sion he has been accompanied by his wife, a charm- 
ing English woman who entertains delightfully. 

Alas! we are beginning to say good-byes, and 
yesterday I made a little farewell call on Mme. 
Barrere, the French Ambassadress, who spoke most 
kindly about my voice, and hoped we would come 
back next winter. Then we went around to Mr. 
Graham's wonderful apartment. It ought to be 
called a museum, by rights, for such a wonderful 
collection of Chinese and Japanese works of art I 
have never seen before. Mr. G. lived for some years 
in China and Japan, and had very exceptional oppor- 
tunities to purchase rare tapestries and all sorts of 
exquisite oriental bric-a-brac. He made us some 
excellent tea, showed us all his beautiful things, and 
we had such a pleasant time that we reached home 
barely in time to dress for dinner. 



[359] 



XLV 
To C. R. 

SUA ECCELLENZA LA MARCHESA DI RUDINI 

Rome, Italy, April 12, 1905 
My dear C. : 

THROUGH the kindness and courtesy of the 
Marchesa Leone di Rudini I was able to 
get a very nice box for the amateur theatri- 
cals, on March 25, given for the benefit of theEdu- 
catorio Pestalozzi, of which the Marchesa di Rudini 
is president. The house presented a sight long to 
be remembered, for all aristocratic and intellectual 
Rome found itself together in the Argentina theatre 
on that evening. The piece given was written 
especially for the occasion by M. Auguste Turchi, and 
called '' Aprile d'Amore'" ("April of Love''). I felt 
like a toy Chinese mandarin, for one saw everybody 
one knew. I think all in all it was the most beauti- 
ful audience I ever remember. The jewels were 
superb, toilets exquisite, and there were more beauti- 
ful women than I have ever seen together at one time. 
Her Majesty the Queen, attended by her Lady-of- 

[360] 






HER EXCELLENCY THE MARCHESA LEONE Dl RUDINI 




COPyRIGHT, 190S. BY TRYPHOSA BATES SATCHELLEa 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Honor, the Countess of Trinita, entered the Royal 
box soon after the beginning of the opera. She 
looked far more lovely than anyone in the house, 
clad in a white gown, embroidered in silver spangles, 
as she bowed and smiled at the ovation of applause 
given her as she entered. She wore a diamond orna- 
ment in her hair, which is so abundant, so beautiful 
and always so becomingly coiffed. 

The principal r6les in the operetta were taken by 
prominent society people, who sang extremely well. 
The music was not difficult, but there was no feeling 
of the amateur, for they had all been well drilled, 
and had so much natural talent. The Marchese 
Carlo Calabrini took the principal man's part, and 
was perfectly irresistible as a rich American gentle- 
man, John Prycchenbrack, traveling in Italy, en- 
chanted with the beauty of the Italian women, and 
very desirous of marrying and taking back to America 
a lovely Italian bride. It seems that the Marchese 
Calabrini — who, by the way, is one of the Gentle- 
men-in- Waiting to Her Majesty the Queen — has an 
English mother, consequently he knows all the tricks 
of the English and Americans in speaking his lan- 
guage, and he kept the audience in gales of laughter 
by his funny foreign-sounding Italian. Besides the 
rich American, there were other Italian suitors for 

[361] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the hand of the Prima Donna, as in all comic operas, 
and there were the usual solos, trios and quartettes, 
which were all extremely well done. The Mar- 
chese Giorgio Guglielmi, who is one of the favorites 
here in amateur theatricals, played his part of Don 
Palmiro, a sort of "Beau Brummel " suitor in a 
specially fetching manner. 

At the end of the second act, the Baron Gino de 
Morpurgo brought down the house by driving a 
coach-and-four in and around and about the stage. 

It was the most dexterous piece of driving I have 
ever seen, and round after round of applause fol- 
lowed, as he drove off the stage. He came back to 
bow his acknowledgments, but that would not sat- 
isfy the audience at all. Shrieks of "5/V, Bis ! '' rang 
from all parts of the house, and at last he had to 
drive on again, and put his stunning horses through 
their paces once more. He did it just as well the 
second time, and the enthusiasm of the audience 
knew no bounds. One of the men told me he is 
considered the best whip in Italy. He comes from 
Venice, where the only horse in the place is kept in 
the Zoo, so that the children may know there is 
such an animal. Is n't it odd ? But, of course, 
all the principal families spend a great deal of time 
in Rome every year. Morpurgo looked very fine, 

[362] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

dressed as a postilion, with white wig, blue coat, 
red waist-coat, white knee-breeches, white stockings, 
and big silver-buckled black slippers. 

The duet between Mme. De Luca and Madame 
Pacini was also greeted with much applause. Of 
course the audience all felt in good humor with 
themselves and the world in general, but then, the 
performance really was surprisingly well done. 

At the end of the third act, which had a most 
effective stage setting, representing Spring at the 
Isle of San Giorgio, John Prycchenbrack was sup- 
posed to give a gorgeous fete with his American mil- 
lions. Calabrini wore a "Grand-father's" hat, an 
** Uncle Sam '' beard, long trousers and a coat with 
long tails ; and he was too funny for words with his 
broken English-Italian. This fete served as an 
excuse for one of the prettiest ballets I have ever 
seen anywhere. To begin with, all the women in 
it, without exception, were really beautiful, and then 
the costumes were fresh, dainty and elegant. As F. B. 
said, '' This is a ballet after one's own heart." The 
four seasons were represented each by six ladies. 
Spring came first, in costumes of delicate green 
chiffon, trimmed with roses, and wreaths of roses 
were worn in the hair, while each one carried a gar- 
land of roses in her hand. You see the roses come 

[363] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

in the Spring here, so that the seasons were arranged 
quite differently from what they would have been 
with us. Summer was represented in yellow chiffon, 
trimmed with bunches of wheat and red poppies, and 
each summer-girl carried a scythe in her hand. Miss 
Patterson, of Baltimore, the niece of the Countess 
Gianotti, looked very pretty as one of this group, and 
the costume was also particularly becoming to the 
Princess Giovanelli. Autumn was made extremely 
effective with violet dresses, trimmed with cleverly 
arranged wreaths of grape vines and bunches of 
grapes. Another American girl. Miss Parish, 
of New York, looked very pretty in these violet 
shades. Winter was the prettiest and cleverest 
costume for the season that I remember to have 
seen. The gowns were of soft, white mulle, with 
little balls of white cotton sewed on all over the 
skirts, and the head dresses were an artistic arrange- 
ment of these same little balls of cotton made 
into a sort of a crown of tiny snow balls. Dorothy 
Mocatta, a handsome English girl (daughter of a 
handsome mother), the Princess of Camporeale, and 
the laughter of the Marchesa Bevilacqua Lazise di 
Nozarole, carried off the honors in this group. The 
prettiest sort of a dance was arranged, and you can 
imagine the effect of the interwinding of the yellow, 

[364] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

purple, green and white colors. Ah ! But every one 
actually held their breath when a golden apparition, 
representing the sun, floated on in the midst of the 
seasons. Every glass was levelled at this exquisite 
vision, and every one soon recognized the beautiful 
Marchesa Dora di Rudini. Tremendous applause 
followed. She was simply e I? louts s ant e^ and her rare 
dark beauty was set off to the best possible advan- 
tage by her shimmering golden skirt covered with 
gold spangles. On her head was arranged a head- 
dress to represent the rays of the sun, but her beau- 
tiful eyes seemed quite as brilliant as her dazzling 
head-dress. The music was particularly attractive 
for her dance, and I am sure any professional dancer 
would have been envious of the Marchesa's grace and 
litheness. When the curtain dropped at the last 
tableau of the sun amid the seasons, everybody was 
wild with enthusiasm. They did it all over again 
most amiably, and then, in spite of herself and much 
against her will, the clever and energetic promoter 
of the evening, the incomparable Marchesa Leone di 
Rudini was pushed by various members of her own 
opera company to the front of the stage, where she 
was greeted with three cheers. 

The Queen left at the end of the second act, after 
having warmly congratulated H. E. the Marchesa. 

[365] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

I cannot begin to tell you all the people I saw 
that I knew. The Princess d'Antuni looked par- 
ticularly handsome, wearing her wonderful tiara of 
pearls. The beautiful Princess Viggiano had a box 
just above me, and looked distinguished and elegant, 
as she always does. H. E. Mme. Ohyama, the Jap- 
anese Ambassadress, wore some very fine jewels, and 
was in a white gown of the latest Paris fashion. The 
Marchesa Casati had on her wonderful pearls, as did 
the Duchess Visconti di Modrone — in fact, everybody 
seemed to be looking their best. The Countess 
Liitzow with her lovely white hair and beautiful 
figure made me think of my dear mother. 

As I came out from our box on the arm of the 
Col. Marchese Beccaria Incisa, many people made 
way for us to pass, as he is a very distinguished officer 
and a member of a famous family, a brother of the 
Rudini. F. B. gave his arm to the Marchesa, of 
course, and with very little trouble, thanks to the 
prompt action of the footman of the Colonel, we 
found our carriage and drove away home. 

It was a delightful evening, and we were so glad to 
have had the Marchese and Marchesa Incisa with us 
in our box. The people that we did not know, they 
did, and they told us all about everything and every- 
body. The Marchesa looked exceedingly well in 

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black satin with diamonds and pearl ornaments, and 
kept us all entertained throughout the evening with 
her bright and jolly ways. 

The Marchesa di Rudini surely ought to feel 
. highly gratified at the complete success of her under- 
taking. I have been in amateur theatricals so much 
myself, that I know the immense amount of work 
that a great production of this kind means. But 
then the Marchesa is an unusually clever woman; 
knows just what to do and how to do it. She is 
also very rich, and devotes endless time and money 
to the charity organizations in which she is interested. 
The Marchese, her husband, has been decorated 
by His Majesty with the Collar of the Annun- 
ciation (CoUana deir Annunziata), the greatest 
honor anyone can receive in Italy, and those who 
obtain it rank as cousins of the King. Since 1518, 
this order, called the Ordine Supremo delF Annun- 
ziata, has been the highest order of knighthood of 
the Ducal House of Savoy, now the Royal House 
of Italy. It is said to have been originally founded 
by Amadeus VI of Savoy in 1362, and was called 
then the Order of the Collar of Savoy, but some au- 
thorities consider that its origin is much older. The 
medal of the order bears the representation of the 
Annunciation, while the collar is decorated with al- 

[367] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ternate gold knots and enameled roses. The latter 
bear the letters F. E. R. T., thus making the Latin 
wor6. Fert (He bears), an ancient motto of the House 
of Savoy. Again authorities differ as to this inter- 
pretation. The King is always the Grand Master of 
the order. The knights since 1720 are not limited 
in number, but they must be of high rank, and al- 
ready admitted to the orders of St. Mauritius and 
St. Lazarus; and there is only one class of knights. 
The decoration is usually worn suspended by a gold 
chain, without the collar that I have just described, 
and since i860 the knights wear on the left breast 
a star embroidered in gold. The four officers of the 
order are the Chancellor (always a bishop or arch- 
bishop), the Secretary (usually the Minister of For- 
eign Affairs) , the Almoner (usually the King's first 
almoner), and the Treasurer. These officers wear 
the decoration around the neck, suspended by a sky- 
blue ribbon, accompanied by the star on the left breast. 
The Marchesa might properly be described as the 
most up-to-date woman in Rome. Always faultlessly 
dressed in the latest Parisian fashion, her turn-outs are 
likewise of the finest, and she has adopted the fast- 
growing custom among the wealthy Romans, of hav- 
ing a beautiful villa in the new part of Rome, instead 
of living in a part of one of the old-time palaces. 

[368] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

You see, these old palaces are so vast, that they 
are rarely occupied by one family alone. In the 
olden days the palace was built by the head of the 
house, who occupied the first floor; his eldest son 
took possession of the second, on the occasion of his 
marriage; and the third floor was given over to an- 
other son or daughter, as the case might be. But 
this fashion, as I said, is gradually passing out, and 
the Romans have taken the word villa for what in 
many cases might properly be still called a palazzo, 
although these villas are not nearly as large as the 
great old palaces of the fifteenth century. 

The Marchesa invited me to call on her, and 
appointed a special time, in order that we might see 
something of each other, for as she said quite truly, 
"When one receives formally, one really does not 
see anybody at all." As she is a very busy woman, I 
thought she was very kind to make this arrangement, 
and I thoroughly enjoyed my visit with her. She 
speaks English very well, and is quite as up-to-date 
in her American expressions, as she is in everything 
else. She received us in a fascinating gown of white 
cloth, trimmed with rare old oriental embroideries, 
and her house was as aufait and cosmopolitan as her- 
self. Kipling has said, " Men and women may 
sometimes after great effort achieve a creditable lie, 

[369] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

but the house which is their temple cannot say any- 
thing save the truth of those who have lived in it." 
Everything in this lovely house, furnished with great 
elegance and taste, speaks of the personality of the 
Marchesa herself. 

She asked me if I would sing for her the day that 
she celebrates as her fete-day (birthdays don*t count 
over here, and as all Roman Catholics are named for 
some saint in the Holy Calendar, the annual holiday 
is celebrated on the day of the Saint for whom one is 
named) . I was only too glad to be able in some way 
to return her charming courtesies to me. Several 
people had told me that they had never heard a 
voice and a flute together (you see there are so 
few high voices in Italy), so it occurred to me 
that it would be something quite new (and that is 
what the Marchesa likes) to sing one of my songs 
with a flute obligato. Accordingly, I rehearsed with 
Professor Settacciolli, professor of the flute at the 
Academy of St. Cecilia, and I was very glad, for the 
song went off finely and every one seemed surprised 
and delighted. One lady, who was in a room open- 
ing out of the music-room, said to me, " But 
Madame, I could not tell if it was the flute or if it 
was the voice that I heard.'' 

No debutante at home ever received more gor- 

[370] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

geous flowers than the Marchesa on her fete-day. 
The whole house was Hterally transformed into a 
bower, and besides, a number of tables at one end 
of the drawing-room were quite covered with dainty 
and costly gifts from her numerous, admiring friends. 
The Marchesa Cappelli, who does such beautiful 
needle-work, had embroidered an exquisite pillow 
for the Marchesa, to whom she is most devoted. 
There were also fans, dainty bits of jewelry, odd bits 
of old silver, and in fact, all sorts of pretty things. 
But the Marchesa's popularity is richly deserved, for 
she is really one of the most charming women I have 
ever met, as well as one of the cleverest. I was sipping 
a cup of tea, with the beautiful Princess Viggiano 
who was wearing her order of the palace, a large 
monogram, E. V. (Elena, Victor Emmanuel) in dia- 
monds, as she had been assisting the Queen at a small 
reception at the palace, when Bustini, who had 
played my accompaniments, came and said that 
everyone wanted me to sing once more. I had 
finished singing, as I thought, but I returned to the 
piano and sang Gounod's little serenade with the flute 
accompaniment. People are so perfectly charming 
here, and have such a pretty way of thanking you 
for doing things they ask, that you can refuse them 
nothing. 

[371] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

During the afternoon, all fashionable Rome paid 
homage to the Marchesa, and came to wish her well 
for another year. Just as we were going out, I saw 
Countess Bruschi for a moment. She was wearing 
my pet shade of pinkish lilac, and I never saw her 
look more lovely. She, too, had been in attendance 
on Her Majesty, and wore her diamond order, like 
that of the Princess Viggiano. 

An awful thunder-storm came up just as everyone 
was leaving, but instead of spoiling the gayety of the 
afternoon, the clever Marchesa became more ani- 
mated than ever, passed from room to room greeting 
her various guests with an appropriate word for each, 
so that everybody forgot the shower, and the fact 
that they had intended to go home. 

Although the Marchesa is distinctly White in her 
politics, her popularity extends to the Vatican, for I 
exchanged greetings with Cardinal Mathieu to-day. 
I think I wrote you about being presented to him at 
the Marchesa Cappelli's a short time ago. He wore, 
as he did the other day, the deep purple soutane, 
with small red buttons down the front and the red 
berretta on his head. Of course, he formed the 
centre of the group of people who were anxious to 
meet him. When a reception is given in the even- 
ing to which cardinals have been invited, no one is 

[372] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

allowed to come in a decollete gown, and no prelate 
must on any account be present in a room with 
dancing. On presentation, one is expected to make 
a slight reverence, and if His Eminence extends his 
hand, you are expected to kiss the great ring on his 
right hand, after the manner of His Holiness, the 
Pope. 

The Marchesa has promised to give me her 
picture, so I shall be able to show you how lovely 
she is when I get home. How many things we shall 
have to talk about. 

I said good-bye to a great many people to-day, for 
we have made up our mind that we must be moving 
on to Paris. I am quite blue at the thought of leav- 
ing this delightful place, where everyone has been so 
hospitable. I never thought I should be unhappy at 
the thought of going to Paris, which always seems 
like home to me. The Marchesa's brother, the 
Col. Marchese Incisa and his wife have jointly given 
me a letter of introduction to the Countess Simeon 
who lives in Paris, a sister of the Colonel and of the 
Marchesa di Rudini. 

If she is as charming as the other members of her 
family, and I have no doubt she is, I shall surely en- 
joy making her acquaintance. 

It does not seem as if we should ever be ready to 

[373] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

leave, there are so many last little things to be done, 
so many good-byes to be said, and such loads of 
P. P. C. cards to be sent out. Everybody has been 
so lovely that I do not feel as if I had half thanked 
anybody. I cannot v^rite more now, as the trunks 
demand attention ; we have already invested in an 
extra one as the accumulation of many months is 
more than one would imagine 



[374] 



XLVI 

To T. C. B. 

Rome, Italy, April 14, 1905 
My dear P. ; 

MANY thanks for your cable and pleasant 
birthday wishes. I did not realize that I 
had told anyone it was my birthday, but 
by eleven o'clock this morning my rooms were a 
bower of flowers from my Italian friends ; many of the 
flowers came in exquisite vases which were, in them- 
selves, very dainty gifts. 

This afternoon F. B. and I went for a long drive 
to Montemario, and this evening the Marchesa 
Monaldi gave a charming dinner for me. Prof, and 
Mme. Sgambati, Count San Martino, Baron Mor- 
purgo and others were there. The dinner was very 
pleasant, and afterwards a clever young Italian gave 
5ome amusing recitations in the different dialects of 
Italy; altogether it has been a delightful day, 
and I think the Marchesa was very kind to entertain 
so charmingly in my honor. 

I forgot whether I wrote you that she had a 

[375] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

musicale a few days ago at which I sang, where Prof. 
Sgambati played my accompaniments for his songs. 

I presume we shall see the Monaldi in England 
later, for she and the Marchese are going up to 
London for the season in June. She is a very attrac- 
tive Englishwoman, and devoted to London, of 
course. 

I was glad to meet Count San Martino at dinner 
to-night, as he is such a very busy man one can 
almost never secure him, for he is so prominent in 
the municipal government, being President of the 
Consiglio Communale, at the head of so many 
important societies, — the Belle Arti, St. Cecilia 
Orchestral Society, and many others, that his time is 
often not his own. He is a man of great wealth 
and culture, and does a great deal for Rome in many 
ways. Belonging as he does to one of the most 
distinguished families, his social demands are also 
great, but the busiest people are those who always 
know how to arrange their time systematically, and 
one might say that Count San Martino performs 
"prodigies of valor'' with the twenty-four hours of 
each day. We had a nice musical talk about some 
of my music which the Count and I went over 
together the other evening when he came to call, 
but in the midst a telephone call demanded that he 

[376] 



COUNT SAN MARTINO 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

come to some unexpected municipal meeting, so he 
bade all a hasty good evening and was off. 

That 's what it is for a man to be brilliant, rich 
and influential — he never can call an hour his own. 

It is very late and I must not write more. 



[377] 



XLVII 

To E. F. D. B. 

Continental Hotel, 

Milan, Italy, April 20, 1905 
My dear M,: 

YOU will indeed be surprised to get a letter 
from here, but we are only too thankful to 
reach this hotel this morning after a most 
exciting and uncomfortable journey from Rome. 
Indeed it was quite uncertain whether we could get 
here at all, as a railway strike is becoming general 
throughout Italy. The trains are being run by gov- 
ernment officers and have to be protected all along 
the line with soldiers, as the strikers are anything 
but peaceful in their attitude. The train-de-luxe, 
on which we had engaged our sleeping compart- 
ment, did not go at all, so we were obliged to take 
any train we could get. You would have laughed, 
at the station at Rome, to see the gold-laced hotel 
porters handling all the baggage and putting it on 
the train ; but they were really very nice about it, and 
considering that they were not at all used to the busi- 
ness of weighing trunks, etc., they did very well. 

[378J 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Soldiers were everywhere in the station, and, while 
the poor porters were struggling with the trunks, the 
strikers had taken possession of the station restaurant 
and were feasting in high glee. 

Try as we might, we could only secure seats in a 
second-class compartment, but as there were already 
in it only a quiet Italian professor and another man, 
who said he should leave the train at Florence, we 
did not complain. 

R. and his mother rushed down to the station at 
the last moment, having been first to the hotel ; they 
did not think that we should brave the strikers and 
get away, but our trunks were packed and all our 
plans made to be in Paris for Easter, so we decided 
to go in spite of everything. We foresaw difficul- 
ties, and F. B. had a generous lunch prepared for us 
by the hotel people in Rome. The last good-byes 
were very hard to say, particularly to R. and his dear 
mother, who have been so kind to us in many ways, 
and have done so much to make our stay in Rome 
pleasant. 

The train was guarded and all along the road at 
bridges and entrances of tunnels, soldiers were sta- 
tioned at close intervals; it was really quite exciting. 
As we came in sight of Florence, I recalled all of 
our many happy days there together. How we did 

[379] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

enjoy the galleries and the wonderful paintings of 
Fra Angelico ! What lovely drives we used to take 
out into the country to the surrounding villas, and 
do you remember how much we enjoyed going to 
Fiesole, and the Medici chapel ? What a wonderful 
place it is, and what a wonderful people those Me- 
dici were ! Not one of the family is living to-day, 
but they will never be forgotten and they did not in- 
tend to be. Those six pills of the doctor's (you re- 
member the Coat of Arms of the Medici family) are 
stamped in all parts of Italy. They were wonder- 
fully powerful characters, nearly all of them, and 
some of them very bad ; but I always feel a certain 
sort of sympathy for Catherine; she was so badly used 
and ill-treated as a young bride in France, that it 
seems to me her later cruelties are to a certain ex- 
tent explained. 

I shall never forget the beautiful views of the 
Apennine Mountains that we saw by the light of the 
full moon from the car windows, but otherwise the 
night was not unalloyed joy, for at one of the small 
stations four giggling, gabbling girls insisted upon 
getting into our compartment, and Sleep fled at once 
out of the window. 

However, here we are quite comfortable in this nice 
hotel, where we have been so often. Soap and water 

[380] 



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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and a good cup of coffee have refreshed us, and we 
are going over to the cathedral presently to see and 
hear the great Holy Thursday ceremonies, conducted 
by H. E. Cardinal Charles Andrea Ferrara. 

Later, . 
We are really fortunate to have been here to-day ; 
the ceremony was magnificent, and the Cardinal 
most gorgeous in his white and gold robes.. His 
jeweled hat, mitre and all the gold plate of the rich 
treasury of this wonderful cathedral was in use to- 
day. There was a very elaborate ceremony, in which 
a great many priests took part. The choir sang 
beautifully, and there was one very high soprano 
voice like the Pope's angel. After the ceremonies at 
the high altar, which seemed to me very complicated, 
the Cardinal went to the side altar of San Giovanni, 
accompanied by the priests, and the ceremony of 
washing his feet in oil took place. There was such 
a crowd that we could not see very distinctly, but the 
music was fine. Before leaving the cathedral, we 
went into the subterranean chapel to see the tomb 
of St. Carlo Borromeo, the patron saint of the cathe- 
dral. There lies the skeleton decked out in all his 
robes and jewels — really a most uncanny sight. Did 
you remember that there are fifty-two columns in 
the cathedral for the fifty-two Sundays in the year? 

[3S1I 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

I had forgotten. In one of the chapels we saw the 
old wooden crucifix which St. Carlo Borromeo car- 
ried when he went about bare-footed on his errands. 
of mercy during the plague. 

We are sorry that we have not time to stay a few 
days in the lake country, which must be delightful 
at this season of the year, especially Lago Maggiore. I 
think the Isola Bella is one of the loveliest spots on 
earth, with its gardens and terraces abounding in 
flowers, and its wonderful old castle with the wee little 
village that clusters around it. It all belongs to the 
Borromeo family, one of the most distinguished 
names in Northern Italy. The other Borromeo 
islands, the Isola dei Pescatori (Fishermen's Island) 
and Isola Madre, are also very attractive. The last 
time we were there we stayed at Stresa, quite near 
the villa belonging to the Duchess of Genoa, the 
mother of Queen Margherita, who usually passes her 
summer there. 

We hoped to have time to drive out from Milan 
to-day to Santa Maria delle Grazie, which is now a 
cavalry barrack, to see again the "Last Supper" of 
Leonardo da Vinci, but we had to give it up ; it was 
running too great a risk to miss the train for Paris,, 
and a cab horse, when you want to hurry, generally 
falls down. 

[382] 



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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

After the train left Milan, we passed along through 
the great St. Gotthard tunnel, and we felt as if we 
had had a review of our Italian lake trip, for the road 
skirted the edge of Lake Como, where we had such 
a delightful time two years ago. The Countess 
Taverna has a beautiful villa on the borders of the 
lake; so has the Duchess Melzi d'Eril, whose picture, 
I wrote you, so much resembled you. I told you, I 
am sure, about meeting her charming daughter, the 
Countess Zaccaria. We had splendid views of Lake 
Lugano also, and the train passes over a causeway 
built directly across the lake. Do you remember 
what fun we had going up in t\iQ funiculare to Mount 
San Salvatore? And then th.e Alps ! How magnifi- 
cent they are, their wonderful snow-peaks reaching 
almost beyond belief into the blue sky ! 

We were quite comfortable in a fine observation 
car, and Nature gave us her most wonderful cine- 
matograph exhibition. Many people left the train at 
Lucerne, and I was glad to see the beautiful lake 
once more. 

I can hardly realize that we have left Rome be- 
hind us, it has been such a delightful winter; we 
have met a great many charming people, and have 
seen a great many interesting things, but I always 
think of the story that Sgambati told me of that dis- 

[383] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

tinguished man, Thorwaldsen, who came to Rome, 
and asked a friend living there how long it would 
take him to really see Rome? "Well,'' replied the 
man, "I really cannot tell; you see, I have only lived 
here thirty years/' People were very kind when I 
left, urging me to come back to Rome, and whether 
I am able to return or not, I shall ever have with me 
the memory of my dear Italian friends, and their 
many kindnesses to me. 

" Music, when soft voices die. 
Vibrates in the memory ; 
Odors, when sweet violets sicken. 
Live within the sense they quicken ; 

Rose-leaves, when the rose is dead, 
Are heaped for the beloved's bed ; 
And so thy thoughts, when thou art gone. 
Love itself shall slumber on." 



[384] 



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LXVIII 

Boston, December, 1905 
My dear Prinoess : 

YOU asked me to write you something about 
the conditions of the Italians who have come 
over to America, and as I have just spent 
some days in going about among the settlements of 
your country people in my own city, I am able to 
write you what to me seem rather interesting facts. 
Dr. Tosti, the Italian Consul here in Boston, who is 
one of the most scholarly Italians in America, and 
whose charming wife is much liked here, has kindly 
assisted me in obtaining my information ; he presented 
to me one of the prominent Italian priests herein Bos- 
ton, Padre Biasotti, a very intelligent and able man, 
who devotes his life to helping his fellow countrymen 
who travel far and wide seeking an honest liveli- 
hood. Padre Biasotti belongs to the Order of San 
Carlo Borromeo, which, as you know, was founded 
by Monseigneur Scalabrini for the purpose of aiding 
and assisting Italian emigrants in North and South 
America. 

In 1 90 1 the celebrated Bishop came over to visit 

[385] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

his missions in America, and in La Piccola Italia 
(Little Italy) of Boston, he found great need of 
an Italian school, which could aid in training the 
children of the people of his fatherland, who arrive 
in America knowing nothing of the English language 
and next to nothing of our laws and customs. 

Parochial schools there are to be sure, to which 
the Italian children are admitted, and Mon. Scala- 
brini paid a high tribute to our excellent and efficient 
public school system in Boston, but the Italians, 
young and old alike, were greatly in need of much 
that could not be obtained except in a school where 
their own language was spoken. 

To aid in the success of this really difficult under- 
taking, a number of the Italian Sisters of the Apos- 
tolic Sisters of the Sacred Heart (an order founded 
by Mons. Scalabrini for the benefit of the Italian 
immigrants in North and South America), come to 
Boston, where they were warmly welcomed by the 
Italian colony. 

To make a long story short. Padre Biasotti, with 
wonderful perseverance and ability, has succeeded in 
buying a fine house in the Italian quarters, and has 
established a school where 800 pupils have received 
excellent instruction during this last year. 

A so-called Giardino dTnfanzia has been one of 

[386] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the special benefits to the Italian colony; the poor 
Italian woman is only too glad to confide her little 
ones to the tender care of the Sisters, for she is thus 
enabled to earn a living or attend with greater ease 
to her household duties. During this past year over 
300 babies, from three to six years old, have come 
under the care of the holy women, who direct the 
school. A playground is arranged for out-of-door 
games, and a large room provided where the children 
are kept amused, and almost unconsciously they 
learn the simple practices of their Holy Church, and 
cleanly habits of daily life. 

Not wishing to interfere with the excellent edu- 
cational advantages offered by our public schools. 
Padre Biasotti opens his classes for girls and boys 
from six to fourteen years, only from four to six in 
the afternoon, after the public schools are closed. 

In those classes many helps are offered to the 
young Italians, and their lessons in the public schools 
are ably supplemented and explained by the Sisters, 
while at the same time they try to make the chil- 
dren feel a love for the dear Italy over the seas, and 
endeavor to teach those born in this country, and 
speaking only English, something of their own beau- 
tiful language. 

If the school in the city has been tiring, there is 

[387] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

an out-of-door as well as an indoor gymnasium, 
where the children may have healthy exercise ; at an 
evening school, the more ambitious are taught de- 
signing, sewing and even embroidery, while every 
Thursday afternoon women may come and learn to 
do their household sewing, the cloth necessary for 
their wants being the only expense. 

Not satisfied with all this, the indefatigable Padre 
has instituted a musical society called San Giovanni 
Berchmans, which numbers one hundred members, 
who bind themselves to good conduct in their own 
families, and in the school or work-shops where they 
are employed. They have started a band, bought 
suitable instruments, and, with astonishing energy and 
interest, have purchased very attractive uniforms. 
Directed by an Italian professor, they are now able 
to give excellent concerts to the rare pleasure and 
delight of all the inhabitants of Pic cola Italia, They 
have also given some excellent concerts for the bene- 
fit of the Italian charities ; another social society, San 
Luigi Gonzaga, was formed with the hope that the 
young people would come together, listen to the 
deeds of their own people, and talk with one another 
in their own tongue; but the Italian brain is very 
quick, and the children, even those who have been 
in this country but a short time, are soon chattering 

[388] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

fluently in English, and very often the children of 
Italian parents born in this country cannot speak a 
word of Italian. 

However, Dr. Tosti tells me that the Italian Gov- 
ernment rather encourages those who come here to 
live, to become Americanized, and almost invariably 
the Italian immigrants make excellent citizens. 

For the purpose of teaching the children of the 
school the mother tongue correctly, a little stage has 
been built in one of the school-rooms, and from time 
to time plays are given, to which the parents of the 
boys and girls are invited. A good moral is always 
brought out, and at the same time much diversion is 
furnished to all concerned. 

By an arrangement with the Public Library of Bos- 
ton, numbers of Italian books and papers are sent from 
time to time to the school, and in a large reading- 
room, where 200 people can be comfortably accom- 
modated at reading-tables, the Italians may enjoy the 
literature of their own land. If it is impossible to 
come to the reading-room the books may be taken 
home for fifteen days, and a young Italian girl acts 
as librarian. 

On the third floor of the building is a pretty 
chapel, which can seat about one hundred and twenty 
persons, and here on Sundays the Sisters instruct the 

[389] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

members of the school in the mystic stories of their 
Church and its Holy Faith. The Dante Alighieri 
Society, composed of many of the most cultured 
women of Boston, has taken a great deal of interest 
in all this work, and our members have often wit- 
nessed the little plays given by the children. 

It was during the Christmas holidays when Dr. 
Tosti went with us to the school; the children were 
assembled in the hall to prepare for the Christmas 
festivals, and could hardly be made to keep their at- 
tention on the songs they were learning to sing, so 
great was their interest in the pretty Christmas tree 
that was gayly decorated and placed on the little 
stage. 

In honor of our coming the rehearsal was stopped, 
and the children sang several of the songs that they 
knew quite well. Very prettily too, they sang, and 
with the ever charming enthusiasm of their race. 
Then two or three of the older girls recited some 
Italian poems very nicely for us. Many of the chil- 
dren have the dark brilliant eyes of the sunny south, 
but now and then a little blonde with very Anglo- 
Saxon eyes told of the intermarriage with some 
strain of northern blood. 

We left the eager faces of the school rehearsal, and 
mounted the stairs to the top of the building, where, 

[390] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

to our surprise and delight, we found a real Italian 
terrazza. Yes, there were the trellises for the flow- 
ers in summer, shading little tables where of a hot 
summer afternoon, the poor children, forced to stay- 
in the hot city, could go and find shade, air and 
flowers — as in their own land. Surely, Padre Biasotti 
has left no stone unturned to do his uttermost for his 
own people, and they appreciate it, for among them 
he has been able to raise over $70,000 (350,000 
lire), the sum necessary to make all these advanta- 
geous enterprises possible. 

After leaving the school we went to see the church. 
"My church is of wood, but my school is of stone," 
said the Padre, and, I thought, how wise and far-see- 
ing was his remark. 

Nevertheless the Padre has on hand a scheme 
whereby before the next year is over a $100,000 
stone church in the style of Venetian architecture 
will lift its head proudly to the world, and bid all 
the Italia of Boston to worship at its altar. The 
Padre is a Venetian and a personal friend of Pope 
Pius X, who greatly admires his young countryman, 
and has stood ready with Papal protection and help 
in many times of need. 

The Roman Catholics in Boston are for the most 
part of Irish descent, and had Mons. Williams not 

[391] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

been a oroad-minded and unusually fine man, the 
Italians might not always have found it easy to feel 
at home even in their church. 

However, now that there are over 50,000 Italians 
in Boston, among whom is owned $2,000,000 of real 
estate, they begin to feel that they are a part of a 
great city in which they have definite legal rights 
and interests, and in which they almost invariably 
make excellent citizens. 

The Padre told me that he had made a study of 
the Italians here in Boston, that he had been to the 
jails, prisons, house of correction, reformatories, etc., 
etc., and had found in these institutions fewer Italians 
than any other nationality. 

" The Italians are very moral people," the Padre 
said, and I believe this is true. I know a large con- 
tractor living near us in the country, who hires many 
hundred Italians to work for him each year, and I 
was pleased when he told me a short time ago that 
he had never had in his employ but one bad Italian. 
"They are as honest, hard-working men as I have 
ever seen," he said. 

In 1 90 1 only 351 Italians landed in Boston, but 
in 19P3, 22,308 came to the land of the Pilgrims. 
The increase in immigration has been enormous, and 
while many of the Italians go back home, to visit 

[392] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and show to their friends the success of their efforts, 
they nearly always return to America, and only a few, 
unfavored by Fate, return disillusioned from the land 
of the '^ bigga mon' to remain on the sunny shores of 
Bella Napoli, where poverty is more easily endured, 

A franc in Naples is the practical equivalent of a 
dollar in America among the poorer classes, so while 
wages are higher here, prices are accordingly higher, 
but the great demand for unskilled labor makes pro- 
gress in most cases probable and profitable. 

Many of the Italians in and about Boston have be- 
come quite wealthy, and one Italian is building at 
his own individual expense a $25,000 church, which 
shows unusual generosity and interest, as you will agree. 

The great increase in Italian immigration has 
necessitated the forming of a society in Boston for 
the protection of the Italian immigrants ; most of the 
Italians coming to our shores are from Southern 
Italy, and those coming to Boston come generally 
from the Province of Avellino (30,000), while one 
town, Monte Muro, has sent over 500 of its inhabi- 
tants to our shores, so completely has the tidal wave 
of emigration swept Southern Italy. 

As might be expected, these poor people arriving 
here, speaking only their own dialect, utterly igno- 
rant of our laws, language and customs, are easily led 

[393] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

astray, and more easily cheated, but since the found- 
ing of the Society of San RafFaele, the immigrants 
are properly aided, advised and protected. 

Many sad stories are told by the Padre where the 
immigration laws of our land are made to seem indeed 
hard to bear, but the just priest did not seem to 
think our laws unreasonable, and indeed paid the 
kindest tribute to Commissioner Col. Billings, who, 
he said, always had the kindest interest in the Italians, 
as well as a keen lookout for the maintenance of the 
law of the land. 

Many expatriations are occasioned by the suspicion 
and diffidence of the immigrant, who, fearing to be 
sent back across the great ocean, hastens to assure the 
Commissioner that already he has work assured him, 
and with this admission seals his own doom, since all 
who come under contract for labor are strictly for- 
bidden entrance to our country. 

Sometimes the saddest cases present themselves. 
One instance is told of a woman who came to join 
her husband, and as he did not appear on the arrival 
of the steamer she was detained until he should 
arrive. ^ 

When the news reached him that his wife was and 
would be detained until he could go to release her, 
he left a sick bed some fifty miles from Boston, and 

[394] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

braved a very stormy day to reach the place where 
she was detained by Government officials. Hardly 
had he reached the Detention Office, before he was 
taken seriously ill; the doctors pronounced his case 
pneumonia, and ordered him to a hospital, where a 
few days later he died. A priest of the Society of 
San Raffaele obtained permission of the Commis- 
sioner, for the poor wife to be allowed to be with 
her dying husband, and later for her to attend his 
funeral. Black were the poor woman's prospects, 
alone and in a strange land, with two small children. 
All her little property in Italy had been sold, in 
order that she might join her husband, and now it 
seemed that she must be sent back. At this critical 
time the society intervened, sent a special request to 
Washington in her behalf, and through the gene- 
rosity of friends, the woman was allowed to go to 
relatives in the city of Providence, who offered her a 
home and support for her immediate needs. 

When a young girl comes to join her lover, she is 
only allowed to land after the marriage ceremony is 
performed by a priest, in the presence of the Gov- 
ernment Commissioner; but Padre Biasotti has ob- 
tained leave to perform these ceremonies in his little 
wooden church of which I spoke. 

I cannot explain to you in far-off Italy the im- 

[395] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

pression I received as I entered this church. I found 
myself confronted with the strangest inconsistencies 
and wide-spread contrasts. There I stood in the old 
Puritan meeting-house (in North Square opposite the 
house of Paul Revere), the Sailors' Mission Church 
of the Colonial days, with its high-back pews, its 
straight, stiff gallery — where at the back was the or- 
gan, from which one seemed to hear "Rock of Ages'' 
pealing forth; and then — as I turned to see the old 
high pulpit, the brilliancy of a gorgeously lighted 
Roman Catholic altar in all its holy Christmas dec- 
orations greeted my amazed and blinded eyes. And 
yet we were not so different at heart, we Puritans, after 
all. Massachusetts has always stood for the rights of 
every man; Massachusetts gave birth to Samuel 
Adams — and Samuel Adams would have welcomed 
warmly the children of the land of Cavour, who re- 
sembles our severe Puritan statesman in more ways 
than one. 

We afterward went to see the Franciscan Church, 
where a Franciscan monk showed us all about, and 
then we drove out to see the new hospital which the 
Padre told us he should be pleased to show us. 

We were glad to go and see what a fine place the 
kind Sisters have established for caring for the sick 
and suffering Italians, though I believe the hospital 

[396] 




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MRS. JULIA WARD HOWE 



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COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY TRYPHOSA BATES BATCHELLER 






GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

treats all sufferers, regardless of nationality. High 
up on a hill in East Boston, where the best of fresh 
air is to be had, Padre Biasotti has provided this hos- 
pital, and in so doing has added another laurel to his 
crown of good works. 

One of the first friends of the Italian immigrant in 
Boston was Mrs. Julia Ward Ho we, who is the Honorary 
President of our Dante Alighieri Society. Mrs. 
Howe has been much in Italy, and her nephew, 
Marion Crawford, has, as you know, lived most of 
his life in your country. 

Many years ago, when Mrs. Howe was in Italy, 
the country was smarting under Austrian rule, and 
the dear woman's sympathies were greatly aroused 
for the people and the land she loves so well. Many 
sweet poems from her pen had Italy for their subject, 
and on the publication of a book of these poems, 
Mrs. Howe sent the volume to Massimo d'Azeglio, 
one of the most famous of the early Italian patriots, to 
whom Charles Albert of Savoy pledged his life, the 
lives of his sons, indeed his all, for the cause of Uni- 
ted Italy. D'Azeglio showed much appreciation of 
the poet's charm, and begged the dear lady to inter- 
est herself in the protection of his countrymen, who 
went across the seas to seek a living and a new 
home, in what then seemed to Italians and indeed 

[397] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

many Europeans at that time, the end of the 
world. 

Mrs. Howe was prompt to reply in word and 
deed, and has ever been the firm friend of Italy. No 
Italian who has been greeted by her, or who has 
had the rare pleasure of speaking his own tongue 
with the woman we like to call the ^' Queen of 
America," is likely to forget his American friend. 

Mrs. Howe, as you doubtless know, has done as 
much, if not more, than any woman in our country 
for the cause of woman. She has spoken to cultured 
societies of women the length and breadth of the 
land, preaching the uplifting of the standard of re- 
sponsibilities of woman's life to a level with those of 
man. A daughter of one of the aristocratic fami- 
lies of New York, she has been most ardent in 
her endeavors to speak for the rights of women, and 
in her own life and personality has given the best 
possible argument in favor of her principles. 

In her salon are received the distinguished of all 
lands, who come to us in Boston, and I have heard 
her converse freely in several languages to different 
foreign guests during an afternoon, which is not 
unusual in a younger woman, but in a hostess who 
wears her eighty-seven years as gracefully as does Mrs. 
Howe, it is a delight to behold. I speak thus enthusi- 

[398] 



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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

astically, for Mrs. Howe has been one of the dearest 
friends of my life, and calls me her Nightingale, a 
title I am very happy to bear. She has taken an 
active interest in our Dante Society, and generally 
entertains our Circolo at her house once during each 
season. 

Another admirer of Italy in Boston is Mrs. John 
L. Gardner, vi^ho has built herself a real Italian pal- 
ace, in which are hung some of your famous Italian 
masterpieces, bought at various times by Mrs. Gard- 
ner in Italy, where she has spent much of her time. 

Were you to step into the court yard of Mrs. 
Gardner's home, you would say, "Yes, this is like 
Italy," and as you went through one beautiful room 
after another you would end by feeling that the 
dream had come true, and that sure enough it was 
Italy. 

I have enjoyed going about the palace with the 
hostess and seeing all these Italian treasures, and if 
they must be out of Italy, you can feel that they are 
in a most fitting place, where they receive their due 
homage and appreciation. 



[399] 



LIX 

New York, February, 1906 
My dear Princess: 

YOU will have received my letter in regard 
to the Italians in Boston, and now that I 
find myself in New York for a time, where 
I am overseeing the publishing of my book, I think 
you may be interested in hearing about the Italians 
here, for we have almost as many of your countrymen 
in New York as you have in Rome, over 400,000, 
and very successful most of them have been, too. 

One hears a good deal of talk about the Italian 
immigration and its probable restriction, but believe 
me, though we Americans have a thoughtless and, 
sometimes, undiplomatic way of thinking out loud 
we do not mean to be unkind. Most of us welcome 
gladly your country people to our shores, and while 
the tide of immigration has become so extensive as 
to occasion new and difficult problems, which must 
be studied and gradually solved, my people will not 
hesitate to meet these difficulties with the same spirit 
of courage and firm reliance on the rights of man 
that has made us the nation that we are. 

[400] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Indeed, I think that most of our people feel that 
the Italians who come to us are a distinct advantage 
to our land, and I quote from a well-known manu- 
facturer of Rhode Island : 

"Notwithstanding our laws on the subject of 
immigration, they are excellently framed and effec- 
tively carried out," said Mr. Fletcher; "they, how- 
ever, fall short of accomplishing the full purpose, 
and what is needed more perhaps than anything else 
is a law that will reach the runners of the steamship 
agents in the pauper districts of the European coun- 
tries. These agents, by making false representations, 
are responsible for the large numbers which are 
turned back at Ellis Island, and have to be trans- 
ported again to their starting point. 

"Any law of an international character which 
would remedy this feature would meet with the sup- 
port of any enlightened nation, and the difficulties of 
discrimination between those who are and those who 
are not desirable would be largely disposed of. 

"Another, and almost as great an evil of the pres- 
ent immigration system, is the fact that there is no 
law or no method by which the distribution of im- 
migrants can be successfully and intelligently regu- 
lated. The tendency of these people is to concen- 
trate in large cities. In many cases they have not 

[401] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the means, even though they may have the desire, to 
go to other parts of the country where their services 
can be utiUzed. In many sections, particularly in 
the South, there is great need of additions to the 
intelligent working class, and if many of our immi- 
grants could be informed of this, and if some means 
could be devised to transport them to the interior, 
the question would be solved, and immigration would 
become a greater benefit. 

"Take my own State of Rhode Island, for in- 
stance,'' continued Mr. Fletcher. "Its population, 
according to the last census, was 380,000, forty-two 
per cent, of which were foreign-born. Yet favored 
as we are with this large percentage of new blood, 
our manufacturing establishments are to-day short of 
help. Perhaps one reason for this is the fact that 
the children of immigrants rarely continue in the 
same class of work that their parents took up upon 
their arrival. American conditions give them the 
desire to step up in the social scale, and American 
schools make them capable of doing so. Hence, our 
mills are dependent on a fresh supply of foreign labor 
every year. It should be borne in mind that the de- 
mand for labor on the part of the manufacturer is 
not born of the desire for cheap help. This idea, 
which the various labor unions are promulgating, 

[402] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

should be combated strongly. If at any time an im- 
migrant should be employed in any of my mills, he 
is put to work alongside the native help, and gets 
exactly the same treatment and the same wages. 
American manufacturers would be very foolish to do 
otherwise, for we want to encourage the immigra- 
tion of strong, able-bodied young men, who are pro- 
gressive in their tendencies, in order that our manu- 
facturers may not be actually hampered for lack of 
help as they are to-day. I believe, of course, in the 
protection of American labor as well as of American 
products. While labor needs protection, it does not 
need that kind of protection that would prevent a 
manufacturer from running his plant to its full ca- 
pacity by reason of insufficient help, in which event 
oftentimes a short equipment of help cannot be fully 
engaged by reason of an unbalance. 

"What would facilitate and prevent the unneces- 
sary return of undesirable immigrants would be the 
requirement from an immigrant of a certificate from 
the consul of each district of embarkation, showing a 
clean bill of health and such other qualifications, 
that would be filled out, and this certificate being 
presented to the officials of Ellis Island, would go far 
toward correcting one of the greatest evils that we 
now have to contend with. 

[403] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

"The real trouble lies, as I have pointed out, not 
in the fact that immigrants are not coming to our 
shores fast enough, but in that they do not get to the 
sections of the country where they are most needed. 
If some intelligent methods were devised and put in 
operation to handle our incoming guests, and steer 
them in those directions where there is a real demand 
for them, the so-called immigration question would 
be largely solved. The National Government will 
have to take this matter up sooner or later, and it is 
the only agent which can be trusted to do the work 
thoroughly. It can't be left to the railroad and 
steamship companies, as it has been in the past. For 
that reason, I am in favor of landing immigrants at 
ports contiguous to the territory which they may be 
destined to occupy, and they should also be better 
posted before they leave their own country as to re- 
sources and inducements of the various sections of 
the land to which they are going.'' 

However, things would seem to be improving, 
and it is a significant fact that the Italians coming to 
America in the last three years have been bound for 
every State and Territory in the Union. 

When a stranger comes to new surroundings he 
should receive a welcome; but how often is this the 
case in any walk in life? In the school room, is the 

[404] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

new scholar, who is stared and glared at on entering, 
greeted with kind words of welcome at recess ? No, 
indeed; ten to one, he is jeered at by some, avoided 
by others, and treated with indifferent scorn by the 
rest ; then one of two things happens : the new-comer 
thrashes the first real aggressive jeerer, and proves 
his right to his position among the scholars ; or, fail- 
ing in this, he becomes a submissive and obedient 
member of the school, and by his good conduct and 
kindly manners gradually wins a place for himself, 
first, in the heart of the teacher, and later in the 
hearts of his fellow-scholars. 

After all, life in general is much the same, and the 
multitude are quite like the children, and show their 
feelings regardless of manners or consequences. 

The Italians should appreciate this prejudice, 
which is born of ignorance, since, among themselves, 
especially among those from different provinces, 
there exist so many prejudices. Ignorance is ever 
the mother of prejudice, and those who know little 
of the Italian laborer, less of his country, and still less 
of the Italian nature, are sometimes very unjust and 
unkind in their judgments. Fortunately, this class is 
in the minority, for we who know the Italians, their 
great historical heritage, their kindly nature and 
their rare intelligence, value them at their proper 

[405] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

worth, and to us, I hope, may be given the privilege 
of assisting them in attaining their welfare and hap- 
piness here in America. 

The Italian, as the new-comer, cannot take the 
alternative of the new scholar and fight his way. He 
is forced to the submissive course, first, by his ignor- 
ance of the laws and customs of the land into which 
he has come, and secondly, because any aggression 
on his part will only bring him into trouble with 
forces too strong for him to cope with single-handed ; 
but the Italian has no wish to be aggressive — it is 
not his nature, and he will endure much with pa- 
tience. If actual injustice is done him, he must ap- 
ply to the laws of the land, though, I am sorry to 
say, in many cases it is difficult to bring the laws of 
the land to work for individuals, especially when they 
do not know the language of the country in which 
they are, and must rely on some middleman to transact 
their business for them. One Italian gentleman, who 
has made many studies among his people here, told 
me that not infrequently a poor Italian is put to 
great annoyance and sometimes grossly overcharged 
by the lawyers who are supposed to adjust his claim. 

As most of the Italians who come to us are from 
southern Italy and Sicily, where law and order have, 
until 1870, been ever most unstable, these men have 

[406] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the inherited belief in their absolute right in extreme 
cases to take the law into their own hands, and be- 
lieve that their revenge for an outrage is theirs alone 
to repay. A story was recently told me by Count 
Massiglia, the Italian Consul-General, when he was 
at another diplomatic post, of a man who was found 
in a dying condition, having been attacked and mor- 
tally wounded. The Consul had him at once taken 
to a hospital and, on being told that he could not 
live, begged the man to reveal to him the name of 
his assailant; though the man knew quite well he 
had but an hour to live, and could speak with diffi- 
culty, he managed to say : " If I live, I will take my 
own revenge; if I die, God will revenge me," and 
nothing could induce him to betray his assassin. 

From this you can see that the Sicilians and the 
men of Southern Italy feel it to be almost cowardly 
to ask even the law of the land, which means to 
them some vague, uncertain person, to avenge their 
wrongs; and when the rabbia seizes them, crimes of 
blood are apt to follow ; though it is only fair to 
say that they are nearly always committed among 
themselves ; as they are committed without secrecy, 
they are widely exploited in the sensational press, 
while less exciting but no less wicked crimes of 
others pass unnoticed and unchronicled. As Signor 

[407] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Speranza very truly points out, the criminal in these 
open crimes always pays the full penalty for his of- 
fense, while the carefully planned and successfully 
executed misdeeds are often left unpunished for lack 
of evidence. As they learn our laws they learn 
their protection as well as the penalty for breaking 
them, and the crimes among the Italians are decreas- 
ing steadily each year. 

No, the Italian with us is for the most part good 
and honest. He loves his family, and when he is 
here without them, sends much of his savings to 
Italy until he can afford to have them join him, as 
he almost invariably does, sooner or later. 

There is a very erroneous idea among some peo- 
ple, that many of the Italian immigrants return with 
their earnings to Italy, there to spend their hard- 
earned savings in an old age of comfort. Formerly 
that was sometimes true, but it is almost never the 
case now. The life out here in America seems to 
entirely unfit the Italian for the old life in his village 
piazza. He frequently goes back to Italy to visit 
and show his newly-earned success, but almost inva- 
riably he returns to America where his children are 
growing up as good American citizens. 

The surest proof of this statement, is the ever-in- 
creasing real estate holdings of the Italians in this 

[408] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

country, and where a man's land is, there his inter- 
ests are quite sure to be. 

It is customary for the various Italian societies to 
have in that part of New York which is called Pic- 
cola Italia an annual festival (very often on Colum- 
bus day), and on these occasions the Italians show all 
their love of pomp and ceremony, as well as their 
fondness for elaborate discourses. 

But music is ever the Italian's dearest pleasure, 
and I do not know what the artists of the Metropol- 
itan Opera House would do for enthusiastic applause 
if it were not for the Italians who crowd the galle- 
ries and stand patiently around the orchestral rail 
throughout one of their favorite operas of Verdi, 
Puccini or Donizetti. During the season in New 
York it is not unusual to hear the shoe-blacks and 
the day laborers in the street discussing the merits of 
this or that singer, and giving their reasons why this 
or that opera pleases them, and there is a certain sen- 
timent of patriotism about their opera-going, for 
many of our most noted singers here are Italians. 
The celebrated baritone, Signor Scotti, is especially 
loved by his fellow-countrymen here in America, I 
am told. 

Only a few evenings ago F. B. and I went to the 
Mardi Gras ball given here by the Italians. The 

[409] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Countess Massiglia, wife of the Italian Consul-Gen- 
eral, was kind enough to ask us to her box, where we 
had an excellent opportunity to see the carnival 
dancing. It was very like the Argentina Carnival 
ball in Rome last year. The hall was very taste- 
fully decorated ; there were many maskers, much 
confetti and serpentine and a general good time. 

The Queen of the Carnival was a pretty Italian 
girl who seemed to enjoy her temporary royalty 
immensely, and smiled down gayly at the merry- 
makers from her exalted throne of tinsel, with her 
snapping black eyes. Not a rough, coarse thing did 
we see the entire evening, and when we left at a few 
minutes past one in the morning, happiness and good- 
natured fun had full sway. 

Objections are made by some people to the immi- 
gration laws as they now exist, and insist that they 
should be made more strict ; that only those who can 
read and write should be allowed to enter the coun- 
try ; but I do not think that these people realize the 
wonderful aptness of the Italian mind, or understand 
the conditions and necessities of our country. Only 
a few days ago I went with Count Aldrovandi, the 
Vice-Consul of Italy here in New York, to Ellis 
Island, and with Signor Tizzani, Manager for the 
Society for Italian Immigrants, we made a complete 

[410] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

tour of all the departments of the landing place of 
immigrants to New York. If the people objecting 
to the present immigration laws could have been with 
us, it seems to me they would have been convinced 
that all the necessary precautions are taken, and that 
only the young, vigorous and healthy of the Old 
World are being allowed to come to us. To quote 
the regulations, no one who is " old, blind, deaf- 
mute, suffering from contagious diseases, in a state of 
ill health, without sufficient money, anyone who 
would seem to be in a condition likely to become a 
public charge, and all who come under contract for 
labor" are excluded from the country. As a matter 
of fact, far from being the scum of Italy's paupers 
and criminals, the Italian immigrants who come to 
us are the very flower of her peasantry. 

Why should we keep out the strong, well-built, 
able-bodied young men and women, because they 
have been born in localities where no schooling for 
them has been possible ? They are ready and anxious 
to work, hard and long, for their day's wage, and 
their nimble brains are not long in mastering 
symbols and signs. Indeed, within a very few 
months many of them speak excellent English. At 
least these sturdy people from the hills and moun- 
tains are honest, and have what is the most impor- 

[411] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

tant thing in the world — good, rugged health, and 
consequently cheerful, normal minds. 

Those who have but a smattering of education, 
really not enough to discriminate between those who 
have none, as I, who have lived in Italy, know, are 
often among those to whom one may apply the 
saying, "A little learning is a dangerous thing." 
What possible advantage our country can derive from 
a peasant who can read and write a few words in 
one of the many and varied dialects of Italy, I fail 
to see, while if they and their children first learn to 
write and read in English, they are the quicker a 
part of our country and have an interest the sooner 
in our interests. 

One great change that should take place among 
us, who count our ancestors in dear old England, is 
that we should cease to have the most unpleasant 
and often most unjust prejudices against the foreigner. 
Ours is the promised land, not only for our Pilgrim 
and Puritan Fathers, but for all who wish to make 
their way in life by hard and honest work. Nothing 
can be more typical of America than President 
Roosevelt's splendid words: "All I ask is a square 
deal for every man — give him a fair chance. Do 
not let him wrong an) one, and do not let him be 
wronged '* 

[412] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

To those who are opposed to the healthy youth 
of Europe coming to our shore, let me point out that 
men who are educated even but little are rarely will- 
ing to dig ditches and work on railroads. 

Another mistake is the great prejudice against the 
southern Italian. How often you hear the remark: 
"Oh well, you know the northern Italian is by far 
the best, and unfortunately only the southern Italians 
come to us." Now the northern and southern 
Italians are very different in character and in their 
mode of life, but both have their good points. 

In the north of Italy, which has been the con- 
tested territory of French, Spanish and Austrian 
armies for so many years, there is a great mixture of 
northern blood, and in Milan and the north generally, 
there is mixed with the love of art and beauty a vast 
deal of thrift and business enterprise. But the many 
fierce conflicts of foreign armies in this land have left 
their mark in more ways than one, and unfortunately 
considerable socialism exists all through northern 
Italy, which is not surprising considering the awful 
state of unrest in which the whole section was kept 
for so many years. 

The southern Italian, the Neapolitan, is a child 
of nature. He must live out of doors. He has 
much Greek, some Phoenician, Saracen and even 

[413] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Arabic blood in his veins. He loves nature and 
beauty, — beauty of every sort. In appearance an 
Italian may resemble a tow-headed Teuton or 
a swarthy Arab, and the peasants from each section of 
the peninsula have their own dialects, of which there 
are over three hundred in Italy. Unless they have 
been at school and learned the accepted Tuscan dia- 
lect, adopted by Dante and now called Italian, an 
Italian from one section of Italy cannot understand 
a word of what his fellow-countryman says, coming 
from an adjoining province. 

The Neapolitan may be poor, but if he has 
sunshine and his beautiful Napoli, he is not 
very unhappy under conditions that to us would 
seem very trying. Unfortunately in New York 
sunshine is much more expensive than in his dear 
Naples, and many are the trials of sickness and 
poverty that the poor southern Italian who comes to 
us has often to suffer. Crowded rooms, hard work, 
scant food, no knowledge of the language of the 
country and so — so little sunshine in his cramped 
dwelling place. It is almost a miracle, it seems to 
me, that most of the Italians get on as well and as 
rapidly as they do, but they are naturally a cheerful, 
hopeful race, and are always hoping for better times. 
Their love of beauty in art has been most beneficial 

[414] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

to them here in America, for in Boston one very 
important industry which has had an educational 
effect upon the whole country, and for which Boston 
has been the centre, is that of making plaster casts 
of the work of the great sculptors, and this has been 
developed wholly by Italians. 

The southern Italian is simple and straightforward 
in his nature, and requires but little to give him hap- 
piness. His heart is as tender as a child's, and it is 
only when his hot blood is stirred by some fiery pas- 
sion that the rabbia makes him what the word im- 
plies — insane, but have we not in our own land the 
Kentucky mountaineers' blood feuds, and the race 
riots in the West and South? 

After all, human nature, with few changes, on the 
outside is not so very different wherever we go, but 
the Italian nature is wondrously kind, and a Nea- 
politan, a Florentine, a Sicilian, a Roman or a Bolo- 
gnese, can all be splendid, true friends, as I well know. 

You will say that I am partial ; but that is precisely 
what I am not; because I know the Italians and there- 
fore I can speak without prejudice. Bad Italians 
there are, of course, but I think we should search in 
vain for a country where there are no bad specimens. 
Count Aldrovandi who, by the way, once more 
proves my firm belief in heredity, is exactly what 

[415] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

one would expect a descendant of one of the most 
distinguished Italian families to be : — a man of great 
culture, refinement and charm. He has been most 
kind in helping me to procure these statements, and 
I owe him many thanks for his very helpful assistance 
in my studies and investigations among the Italians 
here. However, to the incredulous, facts and figures 
speak volumes in short space. It seems to me that 
they tell their own story. The Italian Savings Bank 
of New York City has to-day on deposit $1,059,- 
369.19. The report shows open accounts to the 
number of 7,000 and books to the number of 1 0,844 > 
the average sum on deposit being $170. 

As to the much-talked-of Society of the Sicilian 
Mafia, it is generally believed by the intelligent Ital- 
ians here that no such organization exists in America, 
and the authorities at police headquarters scout the 
idea. 

On Manhattan Island there are 23 Roman Catholic 
churches, which are entirely or in part devoted to 
the Italians. As one enters these churches one feels 
the warmth of the Italian enthusiasm in artistic dec- 
orations of the altar and the church in general. In 
the downtown quarter the church has provided a 
home for the protection of female immigrants. 
Through the generosity and energy of one of New 

[416] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

York's most fashionable and charitable ladies, Coun- 
tess Annie Leary, an Italian settlement, known as Miss 
Leary's Italian Settlement, has been established, where 
competent teachers give instruction in drawing, paint- 
ing and many of the higher branches of study. 

This work has grown out of the successful enter- 
prise begun by Countess Leary some time ago in the 
Italian quarter. 

Sewing schools were established and Sisters of 
Charity were sent to teach any among the Italians 
who might wish to come and learn. Materials were 
freely furnished, and as may be imagined, the attend- 
ance was large. 

Once together and the sewing begun, the women 
were interestingly and almost unconsciously instructed 
by the Holy Sisters in the precepts of the Roman 
Catholic faith. Thus did my friend accomplish the 
difficult and double task of improvement, religious 
and material. 

I must hasten, however, to claim Countess Leary 
as an American, and to explain that her title was 
conferred upon her by His Holiness, the late Pope 
Leo XIII, as an expression of the appreciation of the 
church for the many and generous works of its chari- 
table daughter. 

In the salon of Countess Leary's elegant home 

[417] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

on Fifth Avenue is a large photograph of H. H. 
Pius X, on which is inscribed the papal blessing and 
words of commendation and appreciation of the pres- 
ent Pontiff. 

There are also four organized Evangelical churches, 
maintained by the Presbyterian, Methodist, Protestant 
Episcopal and Baptist denominations. These churches 
are fairly well attended, but the Italian is by birth 
and training a Roman Catholic, and a prominent 
Italian told me that the material aid offered in one 
way or another by these churches proved to the needy 
Italian the main attraction to these Protestant mis- 
sions. — Probably the institution which has done the 
really most lasting good for the Italians in our country 
is the Educational School, established in Leonard 
Street and maintained by the Children's Aid Society. 
The day sessions are conducted precisely along public 
school lines, mainly for children who, for various 
reasons, cannot attend our public schools. A night 
school is conducted in the same building, which aims 
primarily at giving instructions in the English lan- 
guage, and there is also a department of Italian in- 
struction, the teacher of which is supported by the 
Italian Government. Efforts have been made also 
to establish night schools in some of the Italian labor 
camps. The trials have met with great success, and 

[418] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the men showed the greatest eagerness to avail them- 
selves of all possible opportunities to improve their 
condition, as the following letter shows: 

'translation of a Letter from one of the Pupils 

^*AspiNWALL, Pa., Box 13, Nov. 2, 1905 

Illustrious Lady 'teacher : 

Your gracious letter reached me yesterday, and I could 
not have received a greater pleasure. Nevertheless I am 
sorry to read that it will perhaps be impossible to have you 
here again. My richest hopes are lost ? Again I will con- 
fide them to you and wish to believe that I shall be put in 
the right way. For this reason I am about to beg you to 
let me know if in the city of Pittsburg— a city entirely 
unknown to me — perhaps there may be some one who 
could give me some information in regard to our holy re- 
ligion of which I am ignorant of even the principles. 

Certainly in New York there must be churches and some 
one perhaps of their faculty who would lose a little time on 
my account. 

At present I will not say any more. 

The fatigue of the shovel oppresses me and prevents me 
from continuing. 

Awaiting your reply, which I trust to receive, although I 
beg you to excuse this continual disturbing, I salute you 
with esteem. 



Aristotille Guerrieri, 



a 



The editor of one of the local Italian papers pub- 
lished in New York, and there are four of them, 
gives this interesting testimony to the value of this 
school: 

[419] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

" I landed at Castle Garden/' he continued, " with ^1.70 
in my pocket, and not a friend or relative in America. I 
never shall forget the strange impression New York made 
on me that Sunday. At home the people were all in the 
streets, in their best clothes, enjoying themselves on Sunday. 
Lower Manhattan, closed, silent, and empty, seemed to 
me a city of the dead. ' What kind of a country is this ? ' 
I muttered to myself. I had come to America to work in 
the mines, but there did n't seem to be any mines about. I 
walked up Broadway, my heavy old-country valise in my 
hand, about as lonesome, homesick, forlorn a boy as could 
be found on the continent. I did n't know what to do or 
where to go. 

" The best luck that ever happened to me in my life was 
when I met an Italian, who saw that I was a green immi- 
grant boy and stopped to speak to me. He took me to a 
decent place to spend the night, and the next day took me 
to the Italian school of the Children's Aid Society, at No. 
156 Leonard Street. The late A. E. Cerqua, who had 
helped the late C. L. Brace in starting the school, received 
me and put me in a printing class. I worked in that little 
print shop during the day, and in the evening I went into 
the English classes. What would have become of me had 
it not been for Mr. Cerqua and the Children's Aid Society 
I don't know. In two days after I landed at Castle Garden 
I had found good friends and was hard at work learning my 
trade and studying English. 

" There are five or six Itahan printing offices in town, 
including all the most important ones, the proprietors of 
which were all in that printing class in Leonard Street, with 
me, twenty-five years ago." 

Sig. Frugone is now endeavoring to start a similar 
school in the uptown settlement, called Piccola Italia^ 

[420] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and among the Italians has already raised $3,000 to 
this end. These societies which work for the good 
of all the Italians are the sources from which the 
greatest permanent good to the Italian in America is 
to come, for the Italian is an Italian to us ; but to 
his fellow countrymen he is a Neapolitano, or Abruz- 
zese, or Calabrese or Genoese, as the case may be, 
and is very apt to have more prejudices against his 
foreign neighbor who comes from a province which 
has never had over-kindly feelings for his paese 
(county) in Italy, than the few people among us 
who regard the Italian immigrant as undesirable. So 
far as the Italian is concerned this is unfortunate ; 
from our point of view it is just as well, for assimi- 
lation will the sooner be accomplished, and they will 
all become Americans. The New York colony is 
composed of persons coming from nearly every prov- 
ince in Italy, and each man feels after the manner 
of the home sentiment, that his first duty is to his 
paesano (fellow countryman). Thanks to this fellow 
feeling, what few Italians need help almost invari- 
ably receive it from their own people, and rarely 
from any public charity. You must remember that 
up to 1870, when the present United Kingdom of 
Italy was so miraculously formed by the bravery of 
Victor Emmanuel II, the patriotism of Garibaldi, the 

[421] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

diplomacy of Cavour, and, as has been said, the 
smile of Queen Margherita, the country had been 
divided into numerous dukedoms and principalities, 
among which there existed all sorts of rivalries, 
resentments and not infrequently a state of open war- 
fare. These old jealousies are sometimes reflected 
even to-day in the fierce rivalry between two cities 
or towns in the same province. It is therefore not 
surprising, that having all these prejudices against all 
outside his own paese, the Abruzzese does not hasten 
to associate himself with the Neapolitan in a common 
work for the general Italian welfare in America. 
Therefore the Italian of culture and position must 
not blame some of my own countrymen who regard, 
from the prejudice born of ignorance, the Italian 
immigrant askance, and question the benefit to our 
country of his coming. We must consider that it 
costs Italy a goodly sum to rear a young man to the 
age of eighteen or twenty, and when at that age he 
comes to us, he becomes here not only a good 
worker, but a consumer as well. Of the many 
attributes to recommend the Italian to us, not the 
least is his almost invariable sobriety and great 
powers of endurance, both factors in life which mean 
psychical and physical vigor. 

The Italian loves his pleasure, but so little con- 

[422] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

tents him. Sipping an ice or coffee with his friends, 
a simple game of cards at the house of a friend, 
listening to a bit of music, a visit to the Art Museum, 
and he is quite contented. 

I recall one afternoon this winter when I was 
driving in the park, I noticed several Italians digging 
in the streets near the entrance to the Art Museum. 
As soon as it was time for them to leave their work 
they dropped their axes and shovels and went straight 
into the museum. Had you followed them you 
would have surely found them before the best masters' 
paintings, for the Italians have an intuitive sense of 
beauty, in color and contour. Even the newest 
immigrant, with hi^ push cart, makes his ware 
attractive, and arranges his fruit and wares in the 
most attractive manner. The art sense of the Italians 
is one of the most valuable contributions that they 
bring to our new country, because it is one of the 
qualities that many of our people lack. Almost inde- 
finite instances are cited by teachers in the different 
schools as proof of this rare artistic sense. Unfortu- 
nately, from an inability to speak the language or to 
start themselves, skilled artisans coming from Italy 
are often forced to abandon the work for which they 
are fitted and well trained, and the remark is often 
heard: " I was a silversmith in Italy, but I have had to 

[423] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

carry pig-iron since I came here"; while another^ 
a decorator, wears out his strength handling beer 
barrels in a saloon. 

Unfortunately also in many cases, the educated 
Italian can succeed here only by beginning at the 
bottom of the ladder, but instead of clamoring against 
the seeming injustice of Fate, most of the skilled 
laborers begin literally at the bottom of the ditch, 
and greatly to the credit of their manhood, accept 
the situation che^erfuUy and bravely until they make 
a way to the place that their talents deserve them to 
win. This is not altogether a surprising state of 
affairs, for we have constant and definite demands 
for unskilled labor, while the educated Italian is 
bound to meet with difficulties in finding employ- 
ment for his talents, especially as he is more likely^ 
than not ignorant of English. 

There are some of our people who judge from 
picturesque paintings that the Italians are inclined to 
be beggars, and to those who evince uneasiness in 
regard to the preponderance in the Italian immigra- 
tion of illiterate, unskilled labor, we would say, that 
this is precisely the class, according to charity rec- 
ords, that is most able to care for itself here, while 
the skilled or professional worker often seems to be 
at a great disadvantage. Of the sturdy, hard-work- 

[424] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

ing peasants who come to our shores, very few, if 
any, ask help from public charities. In the immi- 
gration of 1903, less than one-half of one per cent, 
was of the professional class, but five per cent, of the 
charity cases was of this class. 

One problem that has required much study has 
been the readiness of the Italians to commit their 
children to some charitable institution. This is 
sometimes caused by the fact that the father of the 
family has deserted the wife, leaving her with several 
small children and little or no means of support, but 
generally these cases occur where the father and 
mother have died, and the family must of necessity 
be broken up. In general, however, the Italian par- 
ents are unwilling to give up their children perma- 
nently, by adoption or otherwise, though many of 
the Italians have unfortunately acquired the idea that 
the commitment of children is a custom of the coun- 
try of which they may as well take advantage ; but 
more careful regulations of commitments has already 
checked this evil, and will soon do away completely 
with this mistaken idea. The Italian parents have 
many complaints to make, however, of their chil- 
dren, saying that they become unmanageable and 
"wild" in this country ; but the Italian mother among 
the middle and poorer classes is generally very young, 

[425] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and nearly as much a child as her children. She 
plays with them, quarrels with them, indulges them 
in many ways, and then scolds them with insufficient 
reason, so an Italian has told me. Italian children, 
whether born in Italy or here, find America much 
to their taste. They are quick to adapt themselves 
to the freedom of the new country, as are their elders, 
and though many of them could not define the word 
" Republic'' before coming to us here in America, we 
all know from the glorious history of modern Italy 
that the love of freedom and spirit of independence 
are elements inherent in the Italian character. 

When the Italian reaches America he breathes the 
atmosphere created by republican institutions with 
undisguised pleasure, but in his enthusiasm he some- 
times loses sight of the close and narrow distinction 
between liberty and license ; he fails to remember, if 
he ever knew, that the most sacred rights of liberty lie 
in the observance by every man of the rights of every 
other man, and he does not always quite understand 
that the greatest good for the greatest number is the 
foundation stone of any great democratic body, and 
along such lines only can great things be accomplished. 
But the Italians' mistakes or infringements against 
municipal laws are almost invariably those of ignor- 
ance rather than of wilful disobedience to the law. 

[426] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

With the nervous atmosphere of our climate, and the 
hopes that the laws of our land make possible, is 
born in the heart of nearly all the Italians here among 
us, that distinctive American characteristic, ambition. 
Decry it if you will, Caesar did, I know, and yet 
without it, what would the world become ? Desire 
to "get ahead,'' a wholesome and worthy wish to 
attain to something better than present conditions, 
are other ways of saying the same thing. 

In this little letter, which shows all the grace and 
courtesy inherent in the Italian character, you will 
see my meaning at a glance. 

It was written by a little boy, 1 2 years old, to a 
teacher in one of the industrial schools, who had 
asked for letters containing some information as to 
the children's parents' condition, .etc., in order that 
she might have a better understanding of her scholars : 

" Dear and most gracious Signora A: 

My father has been two years in America, and he fol- 
lows the trade of carpenter and . . . He would like 
to make of me an honest, industrious boy with at the same 
time a trade better than his, and he sends me to school so 
that when I am grown up I may be an educated man and 
useful to others. 

Later I wish to make machines for factories and thus 
to have better wages than others. Having nothing more to 
say, I kiss my hand to you, and assure you that I am, 

Your, GiULio." 

[427] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Similarly in the four Italian schools of the Chil- 
dren's Aid Society in New York, the older children 
were asked to write their teachers what they wished 
to do when they grew up. In most every instance 
the letters showed a decided wish and determination 
to "get on," either to acquire money, fame or to 
"help father and mother/' 

Another instance of the desire among the children 
to become truly American is their tendency to 
change their names to American forms, as is seen in 
the transformation of the charming name of Vin- 
cenzo Campobello to Jim Campbell. While patriotic 
on their part, this seems rather a pity, but it evinces 
at any rate the right spirit. Surely these elements in 
our midst can only be good and beneficial. 

The young girls show less ambition than the boys, 
but that is easily explained, for the Italian girl, even 
more than the average young woman, expects and 
hopes to be occupied at an early age with the care 
of her own household. The women of Italy, par- 
ticularly the women of Abruzzi and Calabria, from 
which districts come the larger part of the Italian 
immigration, have been noted for centuries for their 
skill and handicraft, and it is with delight that I can 
write you that through the untiring and endless 
efforts of Signorina Carolina Amari, a lace school, to 

[428] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

be a branch of the Industrie Femminili in Rome, 
has been established at Richmond House in Mac- 
Dougal Street, where these Old World hand-works 
of women are now to be preserved, renewed, and we 
surely hope ably supported. At least Miss Colgate, 
who is the chairman of a committee of ladies in 
New York, who are endeavoring to help on this work, 
assures me that over $1,500 worth of orders have 
been given to the school during the past few weeks, 
since its commencement, which would indicate a 
definite success for the work in hand. Over the' 
tea-cups in Miss Colgate's beautiful drawing-room, 
hung with wonderful old mediaeval tapestries and 
seeming like an apartment in one of your old palaces 
in Italy, Miss Amari explained to me her method of 
work here. She has been pleasantly received by 
President and Mrs. Roosevelt, in Washington, and 
has, I hope, gained an agreeable impression of us 
Americans ; surely she has learned to know of our 
love of Italy and its people, not only across the seas, 
but here in our midst. 

Men and races must be judged broadly, and if we 
look at the pages of history, which we are told 
repeats itself, we must surely feel that the incoming 
Italian is a distinct benefit to our country. It was 
the people of that wonderful peninsula who achieved 

[429] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the greatness of Rome, who carried their civiUzation 
and learning to Gaul and Britain. In the Middle 
Ages, infused with the new and best blood of the 
Northern Tribes, they established, after many strug- 
gles, not only political but religious supremacy in 
their midst, and they sent their messengers to find 
and awaken to the world the glories of our own 
Columbia. To-day, through the trials of blood and 
battle, they have bought their right to be called one 
of the great nations of the world. 

Surely a people with their glorious heritage must 
have the seeds of great possibilities, and the fact that 
the individual holdings of the Italians in savings 
banks in New York alone is over 1 15,000,000; that 
they have $20,000,000 worth of real estate; 10,000 
stores owned by Italians, estimated at $7,000,000; 
$7,500,000 invested in wholesale business, while the 
property of the Italian colony in New York City is 
estimated at considerably over $60,000,000, a value 
much below that of the Italian colonies of St. Louis, 
San Francisco and Chicago, seems to me adequate 
proof of these possibilities and their realization ; but 
not to have recourse to sordid figures and dollars 
alone, let me say that the most remarkable progress 
is along the spiritual side. 

It is estimated that there are more than 50,000 

[430I 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Italian children in the public schools of New York 
and adjacent cities. One young Italian on record 
has saved money earned by barbering to take him 
through Columbia University. Another who bor- 
rowed money from a far-seeing and generous professor, 
took his college course, and repaid his benefactor in 
full a very short time after leaving college. A 
third won the fellowship for the American school at 
Rome, so that an American institution sent the son 
of an Italian, now "one of us,'' we are happy to say, 
to Italy, to perfect his special scholarship. There- 
fore as the steamship lines (and there are now three 
excellent Italian lines, of one of which Signor Solari 
is the well-known inspector) ply back and forth be- 
tween Italy and America, let us in this country give 
as kind a welcome to the countrymen of that land 
which all of us who visit learn to love so well, as we 
always receive from the ever charming and courteous 
Italians in Italy. 

To my friends in Italy I send the expressions of 
greatest appreciation, simp at ia and the sincerest 
affection, and I beg you to believe me, dear 
Princess, 

Your loving and devoted friend, 

Tryphosa Bates Batcheller. 

[431] 



A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE HOUSE OF SAVOY. 
HIS MAJESTY THE KING. 

LOVE of ancestors was always a marked char- 
acteristic of the House of Savoy, and since 
^ no force is greater or more powerful than 
that of heredity, I think, dear reader, you may be in- 
terested to trace very briefly with me the wonderful 
heritage of Victor Emmanuel III of Savoy. If your 
memory is as illusive as mine at times, you will enjoy, 
as I have, reviving the stories of New Italy, which 
are so wonderful and so interesting. 

In the early part of the eleventh century, Umberto 
Biancamano (the White-handed) was the first to 
really exercise a sovereign rule over the States of 
Savoy, which had been a part of the Kingdom of 
Burgundy that was governed under the suzerainty of 
Rudolph the Idle by various dependent or subor- 
dinate rulers. The country that extends along the 
rivers Rhone and Iser, now called Savoy, from its 
geographical position, always formed, even in old 
Roman times, the highway between Italy and Gaul, 
At the death of Rudolph, who left no issue, the 

[432] 



Y.iA?: 



eiH 



HIS MAJESTY KING VICTOR EMMANUEL III OF ITALY 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Kingdom of Burgundy became split up into many 
principalities. The son of Umberto, Amadeo I, died 
without issue, and was succeeded by Otho, who mar- 
ried the pious Adelaide, the Princess of Susa and 
Turin, and through her he gradually extended his 
domain beyond the Alps into Italy. 

The provinces situated on the confines of a king- 
dom were called marches, and thus the Count who 
governed and defended them from foreign invasion 
came to be called a Marquis. Later, however, every 
ruler who exercised dominion over several count- 
ships came also to be called a Marquis, however his 
dominions might be situated. The valley of Susa 
was originally a true marquisate, but after Otho of 
Savoy's marriage to Adelaide the title of Marquis 
passed over to the Counts of Savoy. A succession of 
Counts of Savoy follow, and Amedeo III died while 
returning from the unfortunate second crusade ( 1 1 47— 
1 149). His successor, Umberto III (called the 
Saint) was renowned for his many Christian virtues 
as well as for his great courage. In late years 
(1838), he was solemnly canonized by the Pope. 

The rulers of the House of Savoy maintained the 
constant struggle not only to hold their present pos- 
sessions, but to increase their principalities, and in 
I 340 Amadeo VI, called Count Verde (Green Count), 

[433] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

made his appearance at a solemn tournament held at 
Chambery, where he first gave proof of his great 
prowess and dexterity. On this occasion he was 
clothed entirely in green, a color which from that 
time he adopted, and was henceforth known as the 
Green Knight. It was he who instituted the Order 
of the Collar of Savoy (now known by the name of 
St. Annunziata), which consists of fifteen knights, in 
honor of the fifteen mysteries of the Rosary. He 
was a great warrior, assisted the Popes in maintaining 
the Eastern Empire, defeated the army of the Vis- 
conti family at Milan, and through his diplomacy 
in settling various strifes in neighboring provinces 
added greatly to his own territorial possessions. His 
son, Amadeo VII, Conte Rosso (Red Count), was a 
worthy descendant of his father, and during his 
reign Nice came under the government of the House 
of Savoy. 

It was in the year 141 6, when the Emperor Sigis- 
mund, while passing through Chambery, raised the 
principality of Savoy to the honor of a dukedom, 
and Amadeo VIII, nephew of Count Verde, was the 
first Duke of the title, and assisted, through the ad- 
vice and instigation of Carmagnola, the Venetians 
and Florentines to free themselves from the yoke of 
the Duke of Milan. 

[434] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Alessandro Manzoni has described this battle of 
Maclodio in charming verse. 

Later Amadeo gave his time and thought to 
legislation, and completed a codex called Statuta 
Subaudice^ or Statutes of Savoy. This masterpiece 
gained for its author the surname of Solomon. 
He had been fortunate in every enterprise, conqueror 
over all his enemies, successful in all his under- 
takings, yet he was not satisfied ; he must needs 
conquer himself. Like Charles V of Spain, he 
renounced the throne in favor of his son Louis, and 
passed the rest of his days in the convent of Ri- 
parglia, near Geneva, where, clothed as a hermit, he 
ended his days in solitary devotion. During the 
reign of his son Louis, the Dukes of Savoy received 
the title of King of Cyprus, a title which they 
retained down to the present century. 

All through the early part of the fifteenth century, 
especially during the period when the Popes were 
in Avignon, European warriors were accustomed, 
even from distant lands, to descend upon the towns 
of Italy in order to sack them, and return, enriched 
with their booty, to their own country. The people 
of the Peninsula, however, — they can hardly yet be 
called under the unified name Italians, — learned to 
form companies to defend themselves from these 

[435] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

incursions, though the adventurers who for the most 
part formed these bands fought mainly for gold and 
glory, and for those who offered them the highest 

pay- 
In 1453, ^^^ Turkish armies, after capturing Con- 
stantinople, — 1 123 years after Constantine the Great 
had transferred the seat of empire there, made them- 
selves masters, under the leadership of the mighty war- 
rior Mahomet II, of all Greece, whence they pro- 
ceeded to descend upon Italy. A Venetian captain, 
Charles of Montone, by his intrepid bravery, pre- 
vented the Turks from crossing the Alps, but the 
whole country was alarmed, the more so as hurri- 
canes and earthquakes seemed to follow one another 
in quick succession, carrying disaster in their path. 
Mahomet dispatched an army to the south of Italy 
and easily captured the city of Otranto. 

Now the Pope became terrified, and fled to 
France. But the sudden death of Mahomet, from a 
terrible gangrene, arrested the danger which threat- 
ened Italy. 

No sooner was the Peninsula free from the terror 
of foreign invasion, which had also largely put an 
end to the civil wars, than the arts and sciences 
began to revive. Many of the Princes of the various 
States of Italy began to adorn their country with 

[436] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

churches, palaces and Hbraries (printing had been in- 
vented in 1348). Florence now came to surpass all 
other cities of the Peninsula, and protected, governed 
and adorned, as it was by Cosmo di Medici and his 
son, Lorenzo the Magnificent, there gathered here 
most of the eminent literati, artists and great men of 
the time. 

While Christopher Columbus was winning great 
glory for Genoa and Italy in the discovery of the 
New World, Charles VIII of France was march- 
ing across Tuscany to Naples, where he seized the 
throne of Ferdinand I. 

Once in Italy the French were not so easily ousted, 
and a league was formed with the Pope, Venetians, 
Maximilian I, Emperor of Germany, Ferdinand the 
Catholic of Spain (Columbus' benefactor) and the 
Duke of Milan (who now regretted his treacherous 
invitation to the French to come to Italy) to force 
Charles' return to France. 

Ferdinand was restored as King of Naples, but 
another incursion followed by Charles' successor, 
Louis XII, of France, who captured the city of 
Milan. 

Venice had now (1509) become the most pow- 
erful republic of Italy, arousing the jealousy of all 
the other principalities of the Peninsula, and a great 

[437] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

league, called the League of Cambray, was formed 
by the principal potentates of Europe, including 
the Emperor of Germany, King of France, King 
of Spain, Pope Julius II, Dukes of Ferrara, Savoy 
and others, to diminish if not to crush the increasing 
power of the Venetians, who were beaten at the 
battle of Agnadello, though several Lombard cities 
were obliged to submit to the French rule and the 
cities of Romagna were forced to open their gates to 
the former rule of the Pope, while Puglia gave itself 
up to the Spanish. Thus, jealousy of one of their 
own principalities had caused several of the Italian 
dukedoms to fall under something much worse, the 
rule of the foreigner. 

The French abused their rights as the victors, 
oppressed the conquered to such a degree that the 
Pope now became alarmed at the French ascendancy 
in Italy, and joined his old enemy, Venice, in order 
to drive them out, but it was Maximilian Sforza, 
Duke of Milan, who, with the aid of Swiss merce- 
naries, at last succeeded in driving the French en- 
tirely from Lombardy, though he was obliged to suc- 
cumb somewhat later, to Francis I at the famous 
battle of Marignano (15 15), called the Battle of the 
Giants. After all these sanguinary struggles things in 
the end were much as before. France remained 

[438] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

master in Lombardy; Ferdinand of Spain held Na- 
ples; the Pope controlled the cities of Romagna, and 
Venice continued to increase its marvelous com- 
merce, the Venetian ships distributing importations 
from the East throughout Europe. 

Lorenzo di Medici, the Magnificent, who had been 
elected Pope under the name of Leo X (15 13), 
desired peace, happiness and the welfare of Italy. He 
encouraged artists and learning of all kinds. Under 
his protection many illustrious men arose, who have 
made Italy famous by the fruits of their genius, which 
all the world admires to-day. While many parts of 
Europe were still crude and ignorant, the great men 
of Italy, protected by the Pontiff, produced pictures, 
statues and other works of art, which still serve as 
models for all nations. 

The beginning of the Basilica of St. Peter at 
Rome had been commenced under Julius II by the 
Florentine, Bramante. This great work thus begun 
was continued by Michael Angelo Buonarotti and 
RafFaele Sanzio. 

At this time lived also the painter, poet, geome- 
trician, mechanician and musician, Leonardo da Vinci, 
who gave to the world works of his great genius, and 
was the first to carry Italian art into France, where 
he died. 

[439] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Charles V of Spain now became Emperor of 
Germany, ruler of Naples, Sicily, The Netherlands 
and all New America as far as then discovered, and 
a fierce struggle arose between this powerful mon- 
arch and Francis I of France for the rich dukedom 
of Lombardy. Poor Italy was again the scene of 
bloody battles, and at Pavia, in 1525, suffering from 
the treachery of Charles of Bourbon, the Italians 
were obliged to resign not only their rights to Lom- 
bardy, but to Burgundy, while Charles* V gave the 
dukedom of Milan to Francis Sforza, who had been 
exiled to France, though a Spanish army was still 
maintained. 

Charles now sent the Bourbon Prince to capture 
Rome with the pretext that the Pope had refused to 
grant certain concessions demanded by the Emperor, 
and the sacking of Rome by the Spanish soldiers un- 
der the French leader, who had been first false to his 
family and country, and was now false to his church, 
is one of the most frightful pages of history. 

The Bourbon Charles now repaired to Florence, 
where he accomplished the fall of the republic, and 
reinstated the banished Medici. 

Shortly after the fall of the Republic of Florence 
that of Siena fell likewise. It had twice driven out 
the Spaniards with great heroism, but at last, after 

[440] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

the death of Strozzi, was obliged to submit to the 
most humiliating conditions of peace. 

During all this long, bloody struggle Piedmont 
had suffered intensely, and the unfortunate Prince 
Charles III saw his dominions all pass from his rule, 
with the exception of Nice and Vercelli, where he 
finally died of grief. His neighboring province of 
Genoa had been alternately under French and German 
rule, but at last, through the bravery of a citizen, An- 
drew Doria (1529), the republic was wrested from 
French rule and proclaimed a free state. 

Still further complications now arose since Charles 
V determined to retire from his throne, and enter a 
monastery, and his empire was divided between his 
two sons, Phillip II receiving Spain, America, the 
Low Countries, Burgundy, Sardinia, the two Sicilies 
and Milan, while Ferdinand V became Emperor of 
Germany. 

Henry II of France, always eager to recover Lom- 
bardy, and ever jealous of the grandeur of Spain, 
profited by the separation, to wage war against Phillip 
II in Flanders. The Duke of Savoy, Emanuel Fili- 
berto, fighting with the Spanish forces, proved him- 
self a wonderful warrior, performed great feats of 
valor and succeeded in gaining complete victory over 
the French at the Battle of St. Quentin (1557). A 

[441] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

statue of this great general is now standing on the 
Piazza of St. Carlo at Turin. 

The Duke of Savoy also took part in the great 
battle of Lepanto against the Turks (1571), and 
Marcantonio Colonna commanded galleys in the 
name of the Pope, by whom he was given a tri- 
umphal entry into Rome after the complete defeat 
of the enemy. 

(You will recall I spoke of the chart of this bat- 
tle in the Colonna Palace.) 

While St. Carlo Borromeo, whose great brass statue 
we have seen at his birth-place, Arona, on the shores 
of Lago Maggiore, was performing deeds of good- 
ness and benevolence in the plague-fested city of 
Milan (1576), Venice, under the influence of Sarpi, 
was disgusted at the intrigues of the Roman Court, 
and was on the point of following the religious dis- 
sension of England and Germany, by separating itself 
from the Roman See, when the timely intervention 
of France and the Duke of Savoy brought about a 
reconciliation with the Pope. 

Charles Emanuel of Savoy, surnamed the Great 
( 1 580), in consequence of the many things he accom- 
plished, succeeded, though only through many hard- 
fought battles, in greatly adding to his territorial do- 
mains, and while the French were agitated by the 

[442] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Huguenot wars, seized the opportunity to retake the 
Marquisate of Saluzzo, and in this way became mas- 
ter of the territory and commanded the passage of the 
Alps, by which the French were accustomed to en- 
ter Italy. He made an effort to drive from his do- 
mains the Vaudois, a sect of people who had espoused 
the doctrines of the Reformation, but at length, 
though he defined the limits of their abode with great 
severity, he ceased to persecute them. 

Just at this time Ariosto's " Orlando Furioso " and 
Tasso's "Geruseleme Liberata" were being read, 
while Galileo was discovering the pendulum, in- 
venting the telescope and proving, by his great book, 
Copernicus' theory that the earth revolved around 
the sun. 

Italy had become in a certain way Spanish ; the 
Spanish Viceroy governed Lombardy, Sicily, Sardinia 
and Naples, and Spanish influence exerted itself 
upon many of the other States. Even to-day many 
Spanish customs still exist in Italy, which have come 
down from that epoch. 

Attacked by Spain, Savoy allied itself with France, 
and in the battle at Casale, where the Spanish were 
badly defeated, the Spanish General Leganez, full 
of disgust, sent the French General, allied with the 
Piedmontese, the following message : 

[443] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

" If I were the King of France I would have your head 
cut off for having risked the battle with so small a force." 

"And I," answered Artour, the French General, " had I 
the honor to be the King of Spain, would have the Marquis 
Leganez decapitated for allowing himself to be beaten by a 
mere handful of men." 

Later, about 1665, during the war of the Spanish 
Succession, when it was found that Victor Amadeo II 
of Savoy had sided not with France but with Ger- 
many, a numerous army of French and Spaniards at- 
tacked his States. Savoy, Nice, Susa, Aosta, Ivrea 
and Vercelli unfortunately fell into the hands of the 
enemy, who then turned on Turin, which they be- 
sieged, but after a fierce struggle, Victor Amadeo, 
aided by the Austrian General, Prince Eugene, com- 
pletely defeated the French, drove them out of Turin, 
and Piedmont rose again from its ruins. At the end 
of the war of the Spanish Succession by the Treaty of 
Rastadt, Spain was conceded to Philip V, nephew of 
Louis XIV of France, while Lombardy, Naples and 
Sardinia were united with Austria, and for over one 
hundred years France and Spain lost all their in- 
fluence in Italy, the whole Peninsula becoming 
virtually Austrian. 

By the victory of Turin and the Treaty of Ras- 
tadt, the States of Victor Amedeo were greatly en- 
larged, and he was the first of the Dukes of Savoy to 

[ 444 ] 



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GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

bear the title of the King of Sicily, though he soon 
exchanged Sicily for Sardinia with the Emperor of 
Germany, and the Dukes of Savoy have ever since 
been known as the Kings of Sardinia. 

During the reign of the son of Victor Amedeo II, 
all Europe was stirred by the Polish war, and the 
War of the Succession of Austria ( 1 73 1 ). 

In regard to the choice of a King for Poland (Po- 
lish Kings were elected by the people), Austria and 
Russia took sides against France and Spain. The 
theatre of war was for the most part in Italy, and 
the King of Sardinia was forced in a measure to take 
part in order to preserve his own States. At the 
treaty of peace, signed after two years' fighting, it was 
decided that Charles Bourbon of Spain should be rec- 
ognized King of Naples and Sicily, and he was the 
first to assume the title of King of the Two Sicilies. 

The Austrian Succession of Maria Theresa was 
upheld by the King of Sardinia and England, and 
opposed by France and Spain, and a nine years' war 
ensued. At length the powerful army of Austrians 
and Piedmontese succeeded in driving out the French 
and Spanish forces, and Italy enjoyed several years of 
much-needed peace. 

In 1799 the French Revolution startled the world, 
and the great Napoleon appears upon the Italian 

[445] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

scene. On his entrance to Italy he found the coun- 
try divided in this wise : Piedmont belonged to the 
House of Savoy which had taken the title of King 
of Sardinia. Lombardy was under the Emperor of 
Germany ; the two republics of Genoa and Venice 
continued to exist, but in degenerate form ; in the 
two Sicilies and the Dukedom of Parma, Princes 
who were descended from the Spanish Bourbons, 
were still reigning ; Lucca was a republic ; Tuscany 
was ruled by a Grand Duke, brother of the Emperor 
of Austria ; Rome and the Romagna formed the 
States of the Church, in whose midst was the little 
Republic of San Marino. 

What Napoleon accomplished in Italy and the 
marvelous way in which he placed Italy under 
French rule in an incredibly short space of time, is 
quite familiar to all. 

After the battle of Marengo (1800) all further 
thought of opposition to Napoleon vanished, and 
even the Pope did exactly as bidden. But once 
Emperor, Napoleon made the great mistake of plac- 
ing on the conquered thrones members of his family, 
utterly inadequate, many of them, for their positions, 
and who became not only annoying to him, but 
worked him positive mischief. 

The King of Sardinia could not hope to with- 

[446] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

stand the French invasion, and Piedmont became for 
the time, the Sub-Alpine Republic, and Prince 
Borghese, who had married Pauline Bonaparte, was 
made Governor. Savoy and Nice were annexed to 
France. Eliza Bonaparte was given Tuscany ; Murat, 
brother-in-law of Napoleon, was made King of 
Naples; Louis Bonaparte was made King of Holland, 
and Lucien was made King of Westphalia. 

The great Napoleon did much for Italy in many 
ways; in the establishment of schools, in the building 
of wonderful roads and bridges that are used to-day, 
and he made many other improvements which remain 
to remind one throughout Italy, and indeed through- 
out Europe, that, however criticised by his enemies. 
Napoleon lived and labored for the permanent good 
of the countries which came under his rule. 

After the Congress of Vienna (1815), Italy en- 
joyed some years of tranquillity, and by virtue of the 
treaty agreed on at Vienna, the legitimate princes 
were for the most part restored to their domains, and 
pristine forms of government established. 

Sardinia, Piedmont, Savoy and Novara were re- 
stored to their former King, Genoa being also added 
to his dominions. The countries belonging to 
Venice and Lombardy were made over to Austria 
under the name of the Lombardo- Venetian King- 

[447] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

dom. The Neapolitan and Tuscan States were re- 
stored to their former sovereigns ; the Pope again 
took possession of his Roman States. The duke- 
doms of Reggio, Modena and Mirandola were given 
to Francis, Duke of Austria, while those of Parma, 
Piacenza and Guastella were given to Marie Louise, 
wife of Napoleon. 

After this, Italy enjoyed some years of tranquillity, 
and then followed the disastrous revolutions in Sicily 
and Naples against King Ferdinand, that were put 
down eventually by Austrian arms. The Pope issued 
an edict at this time (1820) in which he stated that 
if the people of Italy must be so afflicted by the 
scourge of war, he, as an essentially pacific ruler, 
intended to preserve perfect neutrality toward all 
nations. In this way Rome was preserved for the 
time from disasters of war. 

In Piedmont, however, the revolutionary spirit 
became intense, and Victor Emmanuel I, hearing 
that many of the cities had joined the rebels, abdi- 
cated in favor of his brother, Carlo Felice, then liv- 
ing at Modena, meanwhile appointing his cousin, 
Charles Albert, regent. The much-demanded Con- 
stitution, similar to the Spanish Constitution exacted 
in Naples, was insisted on by the populace, and finally 
granted, but its life was shorter even than that at 

[448] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Naples ; the Austrian General in Milan was called 
upon for assistance, and the Austrians, marching on 
Turin, entered the city without resistance and the 
whole revolution collapsed. 

Instead of liberating Piedmont and Naples, and 
forming a united Italy, the revolutionists had thus 
far only succeeded in adding one more citadel, Ales- 
sandria, to be occupied by the Austrians. Never- 
theless the spirit of the revolution still remained and 
there was in the secret societies, or Carbonari, a 
definite plan to unite all Italy into one republic, 
to remove the Pope from Rome, and to drive all the 
Kings of Italy from their thrones. 

In 1846 Pius IX was elected to the Pontifical 
seat, and his first act was to grant a general amnesty. 
He promoted many other reforms, which were re- 
ceived with great applause and admiration, and the 
revolutionists seized this opportunity of toleration to 
spread anew throughout Italy the tempting idea of 
making it one united land, and driving out the 
Austrian tyrants from Lombardy. The cry soon arose 
on every hand, "Long live Italy, long live Pio 
Nono, and death to the Austrians ! " The Milanese 
were the first to take arms against the Austrians, 
but in the beginning of the War of Independence the 
Milanese would have fared sadly indeed, had it not 

[ 449 1 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

been for the help given them by Charles Albert, 
King of Sardinia, who, at the death of Carlo Felice 
had ascended the throne. Under the bad leadership 
of General Ramorino, the Piedmontese suffered a 
fearful defeat at Novara, and Charles Albert, broken- 
hearted at the loss of the battle, spoke to the assem- 
bled chiefs of his army in this wise : 

" As I can this day neither save Italy nor die as a sol- 
dier, my obligation to my country is ended. I can no 
longer render service to my subjects, to whose happiness I 
have devoted eighteen years of my life, and therefore I lay 
down my crown, and place it on the head of my son and suc- 
cessor. I am no longer King. Your King is now my son 
Victor Emmanuel II." 

And what a King and what a son! 

After the battle of Novara, Piedmont had to pay 
1,200,000 francs to Austria as the price of peace, 
and poor Charles Albert, oppressed with grief at his 
fallen fortunes, died in 1849. 

In Rome also affairs were becoming desperate, and 
the assassination of Count Rossi, President of the 
Pope's Ministry, and a man who exerted his best in- 
fluences and great ability for the reorganization of 
the States of Italy, brought consternation to every 
one. At the time of his death he had opened nego- 
tiations with Naples, Florence and Turin, hoping 

[450] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

thus to form a basis for a national federation of 
the Italian States. The revolutionists saw that the 
establishment of law and order and a new Italy, 
under Papal rule, would but ill meet their cherished 
hopes of a great, independent republic ; Count Rossi 
paid the price of their disapproval with his life. 

After the murder of Count Rossi, things went 
from bad to worse ; the revolutionists besieged the 
Vatican, removed the guards and pointed cannon at 
the entrance. Pio Nono in disguise escaped from 
the Vatican at night, and, aided by Count Spauro, 
joined Cardinal Antonelli at Gaeta. General con- 
fusion followed, the Papal adherents were terrified, 
the indifferent were astounded, but the revolutionists 
were filled with exultation, and immediately took 
the preliminary steps towards the proclaiming of a 
republic, by establishing a provisional government, 
which was called a yunta. The leading men of the 
Papal Government nearly all relinquished their posts ; 
the Chambers and Municipal Body resigned, and, 
under the leadership of Joseph Galletti of Bologna, 
the following decree was issued February 9, 1849: 
" The Papacy has fallen de facto and de jure from 
being the head of the Roman States. The National 
Government will now take the glorious name of 
Roman Republic. '' 

[451] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Spain, France, Portugal, Austria and Naples, all 
came forward now to restore the Pope to his con- 
dition of independence and dignity. 

Piedmont and Tuscany, on account of internal 
dissensions, refused to join the league of the Catholic 
powers. Having tried all pacific means in vain, the 
allied powers now determined to intervene by force 
of arms, in order to restore Pius IX to his throne. 

The French were the first on the scene, the Aus- 
trians advancing by way of Lombardy and Tuscany. 

In the midst of the general hostilities, Giuseppe 
Garibaldi, the bold and courageous man who was af- 
terwards to prove himself one of the real liberators 
of Italy, appeared on the scene; a man of action, 
obedient in supreme emergencies to the inspiration 
of his own genius, he came forward now with fifteen 
hundred picked men to the aid of the Republican 
party. He was received with enthusiasm by the then 
heads of the government, and fierce fighting now 
ensued against the French, who only succeeded in 
entering the city after repeated assaults, and order was 
at last restored by the French General Oudinot. 
Order had also been restored in Piedmont, where 
Victor Emmanuel had become King, and the Grand 
Duke Leopold had again control over Tuscany. 

The French, after having re-established the Pope 

[452] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

on his throne, returned in part to their own country, 
leaving, however, a garrison in Rome, sufficient to 
quell any disorders that might afterwards arise. The 
Austrians maintained garrisons in Lombardy, also 
a close watch on the Papal States, and for some ten 
years Italy was at peace. 

Piedmont, during this time, under the reign of 
Victor Emmanuel, and under the guidance of her 
greatest statesman, Cavour, continued steadily for- 
ward, consolidating her power and extending her 
influence. 

With the most consummate tact and diplomatic 
daring, Cavour made an alliance between Piedmont 
and France, always placing Piedmont in the light of 
one of the great European powers. To justify these 
assumptions. Piedmont sent 20,000 men under Gen- 
eral La Marmora to the Crimea in the war with 
France and England against Russia, and those soldiers 
distinguished themselves at the victory of the allies 
over the Russians on the river Tchernaya, and reaped 
their full glory and benefit therefrom. 

After the disastrous battle against the Austrians at 
Novara in 1 849, an armistice rather than a real peace 
had been concluded, and fierce animosities remained 
on each side. Austria began to make powerful arma- 
ments in the Lombardo-Venetian territory, and Pied- 

[453] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

mont, seeing war threatened, began to arm herself 
in opposition ; meanwhile the idea of a United Italy 
steadily gained ground throughout the peninsula. 

Cavour's diplomacy with Emperor Napoleon III 
was remarkable. His frequent journeyings back and 
forth from Piedmont to France, his cleverly laid plans, 
which he still more cleverly succeeded in executing, 
are all well-known matters of history. Napoleon 
III provoked a rupture with Austria, and on Pied- 
mont's refusing to disarm generally, war was for- 
mally declared on April 26th, 1859. The French 
troops with Napoleon III at their head, and led by 
the best generals in France, at once poured into Pied- 
mont by way of Genoa and Mont Cenis. 

The first real battle was at Montebello near Cas- 
teggio, where the Austrians were worsted. Another 
battle followed at Palestro, where the allies led by 
Victor Emmanuel, displayed great courage, and at 
the battle of Magenta, on the fourth of June the 
Austrians were completely routed. 

After these successes Victor Emmanuel and Em- 
peror Napoleon III made a triumphal entry into 
Milan on January 8th. More victories followed, but 
the decisive battle was fought at Solferino where the 
fighting line extended ten miles, and where 500,000 
men were under arms. The Emperor Napoleon, the 

[454] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

King of Sardinia, and the Emperor of Austria com- 
manded their respective armies in person, and it was 
indeed such a battle as reminded one of the days of 
Aetius and Attila. The glory or disgrace of France 
and Piedmont hung in the balance. 

The fighting began at four in the morning on June 
24th, and lasted till late the next afternoon, when, 
favored by a violent storm, the allies assailed the 
enemy with so much vehemence and courage that 
after tremendous fighting the victory was theirs. The 
enemy retired across the Mincio, to an impregnable 
position in a plain defended by the four fortresses of 
Mantua, Peschiera, Verona, and Legnano. 

It seemed most hazardous to attempt to attack those 
fortresses and run the risk of losing all that had been 
already gained; therefore the preliminaries of peace 
were signed at Villafranca and peace concluded at Zu- 
rich. This peace was, however, far from satisfactory 
to Piedmont, for, as the price of the assistance from 
Napoleon III, they were obliged to cede to France 
Savoy and Nice. Thus, while it gave Lombardy to 
the King of Sardinia, it was far from freeing Italy 
from foreign domination from sea to sea. 

This treaty of Villafranca was a fearful blow and 
disappointment to the hopes and aspirations of the 
Italian people, for they saw the brightest chance that 

[455] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

had ever occurred since the old Roman times, of a 
free and united country, suddenly vanish before them, 
and they knew themselves to be in almost the same 
condition as they were before the war began. Vene- 
tia was still in the hands of the Austrians; but though 
the States of Southern Italy were to remain under the 
rule of the Pope, Piacenza, Parma, from which Marie 
Louise had taken flight, Modena, Massa, Carrara and 
Tuscany, having driven out the Grand Duke from 
Florence, and Bologna under Marquis d'Azeglio, 
declared themselves in favor of annexation under the 
rule of the King of Sardinia. 

The stipulation in the Villafranca treaty that for- 
bade a foreign army to enter any of the Italian States 
for the sake of carrying out the provisions of the 
treaty, made it possible for the Piedmontese govern- 
ment with Rattazzi at the head, to quietly pursue 
their purpose of annexation, assimilate the laws and 
institutions of all the different States, so that the po- 
litical world of Europe should regard the annexa- 
tion of these States to Piedmont as 2ifait accompli, 

Cavour now came forward again, and with the 
extraordinary sagacity with which he was endowed, 
added to his wonderful belief in the justice and ulti- 
mate success of his cause, he brought over France 
and England to his views. 

[456] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

He pointed out the impossibility of forcing the 
population of Central Italy to receive again the re- 
actionary governments which they had expelled from 
their respective capitals, unless by military force; 
a plebiscite was resorted to in the various States which 
were annexed, and a large majority in all but Tus- 
cany declared itself. It seemed very unjust that 
Savoy and Nice, which had been the cradle of the 
dynasty of Piedmont, should be separated from the 
now so much desired United Italy, but both provinces 
by a majority of votes decided for annexation to 
France. 

Victor Emmanuel is said to have declared when 
obliged to submit to this decision, " If Austria were 
not on my heels, by the Almighty, I would not 
have yielded Nice and Savoy to France, — not if I 
had been obliged to march an army in their defense," 

The new Parliament, with members chosen from 
Lombardy, Tuscany and the other annexed States, now 
opened at Turin. The King, in his opening speech, 
said : " Italy is no longer an open field for the am- 
bition of foreigners ; from this time it belongs to the 
Italians themselves. We shall have many obstacles 
to surmount ; but upheld by public opinion and by 
the affection of the people, I will not allow any of 
our rights to be violated or diminished. Attached 

[457] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

as my ancestors have always been to the Catholic 
faith and the Pope, nevertheless if the ecclesiastical 
authority will have recourse to arms for its temporal 
interests, I would find in my conscience and in the 
traditions of my family the force necessary to main- 
tain our civil liberties as well as my own authority 
intact, and shall have to answer for this only to my 
own people and to God." 

It was only natural that Southern Italy and Sicily 
should catch the enthusiasm for unification. The 
revolutionary spirit was the more increased by the 
galling tyranny of the police officers of the new 
King, Francesco II, especially in Sicily, where, al- 
though there were revolts and several attempts at in- 
surrection, there was not the widespread revolution 
that the exaggerated reports spread throughout 
Italy. 

In i860 Garibaldi, gaining the secret sympathy 
of the King of Sardinia, now determined to seize 
the opportunity to aid the Sicilian insurgents, who 
were driven from their homes by cruelty of govern- 
ment officials, and had retired in small bands to the 
mountains, where they lived perforce after the man- 
ner of brigands. 

Embarking from Genoa, Garibaldi, who had gath- 
ered around him many of his old companions of the 

[458] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

*' red shirt," landed in Sicily, put himself at the 
head of the revolutionary movement, and having 
worsted the royal troops in a small encounter, deter- 
mined to march on Palermo, of which Garibaldi, 
after much fighting, took possession, and quickly 
became master of the entire island. 

He then crossed the straits of Messina with his 
ever-increasing army, and soon Calabria, Puglia, and 
the Abruzzi opened their gates before him as a con- 
queror. All Naples was in confusion. The King 
fled, and Garibaldi, trusting to the magic of his 
name, left behind him the main body of his army, 
and entered Naples with only a half dozen friends 
and supporters, amidst the universal cheers of the 
whole population. 

Then the Kingdom of Naples, which had lasted 
more than eight hundred years, now fell almost 
without striking a blow, under the prestige of a 
popular leader, aided by the enthusiasm which had 
been created by the party of action in favor of a free 
and united Italy. 

The Pope, alarmed, endeavored to raise up an 
army to maintain and increase his temporal power. 
Victor Emmanuel saw that the entrance of the 
foreign army was alike dangerous to Sardinia and 
the other States of Italy, and at once organized an 

[459] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

army in two divisions, one under General Cialdini, 
which passed along the Adriatic shores, while the 
other under Generals Faute and Delia Rocca oc- 
cupied the valley of the Tiber. 

Garibaldi meantime gave battle once more against 
the royal troops, and won a victory on the banks of 
the Volturno, whence he now entered Gaeta. 

He w^s now sole dictator of Naples. He estab- 
lished many reforms, instituted schools, expelled the 
Jesuits, and proclaimed general religious liberty. 
The Republican party, which had previously been 
led by Mazzini, and with which Garibaldi felt the 
greatest sympathy, now tried to prevent the annexa- 
tion of the two Sicilies to the Kingdom of Victor 
Emmanuel, preferring to preserve it as a center for 
republican institutions, from which the policy of a 
united Italian Republic could be later proclaimed. 

But Garibaldi was far too wise a man, and too 
earnest a patriot, to be induced to any hasty adop- 
tion of republican institutions, and he fully realized 
the necessity of following the plebiscite as the only 
system in deciding the annexation or autonomy of the 
southern provinces. The result of the plebiscite pro- 
claimed for annexation by a large majority, and the 
most sanguine hopes of the National party were 
realized. 

[460] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

Victor Emmanuel now marched to Naples, to ren- 
der assistance to the forces of Garibaldi, and complete 
the conquest of the country. All the towns through 
which he passed greeted their new king with accla- 
mations of joy. 

Near Capua the two of the foremost actors in the 
history of the formation of United Italy met with 
most cordial greetings, and on the 7th of November 
the King, accompanied by Garibaldi, made a tri- 
umphal entrance into Naples. The result of the 
plebiscite was brought to Victor Emmanuel the next 
day, by a deputation inviting him to assume the gov- 
ernment of the whole of Southern Italy. Garibaldi 
wished to keep the dictatorship for a year previous to 
the formal annexation, but Victor Emmanuel (fear- 
ing to compromise the country in the eyes of Cath- 
olic Europe by an independent attack on Rome) for 
many excellent reasons refused, and Garibaldi, con- 
sidering his work completed, retired to his cottage 
in Caprera. 

Victor Emmanuel, King of Sardinia, was now 
King of Italy by the grace of God and by the will 
of the nation. But Rome still remained in the hands 
of the Pope, and Cavour, with his rare ability, now 
proceeded to untangle this fast knot in the solution 
of Italian unity. He declared that Rome was by 

[461] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

right the proper capital of Italy, and maintained the 
famous doctrine of "a free church in a free state." 
To reconcile the Catholic powers, he announced his 
plan to give to the Pope perfect freedom of action 
in all spiritual matters, while reserving for the King- 
dom of Italy the prestige of its ancient capital. This 
great speech made in the Parliament was the last act 
of Cavour's wonderful and eventful life, for on the 
6th of June he died. 

The occupation of Rome was now the question of 
the moment, and all pacific methods were attempted, 
always meeting the same reply, " Non possumusJ" The 
non-success of pacific efforts excited the party of 
action to stronger methods of procedure. Garibaldi 
was soon to the fore once more. ^' Roma o morteV^ 
rang throughout Italy, but the government did not 
wish to compromise Italy in the eyes of Napoleon, 
who still continued the occupation of Rome and sent 
to arrest the most daring revolutionists ; Garibaldi 
returned again to Caprera. 

He went now to Sicily, the scene of his former 
successes, and enrolled many of the Sicilian youths 
under his banner ; but when it became known that 
his goal was Rome, Victor Emmanuel sent a royal 
army to watch the progress of events. 

Garibaldi nevertheless proceeded, but his reception 

[462] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

this time in Naples was far different from his first. 
The country was quiet, annexed by its own wish to 
the government of Victor Emmanuel, and when the 
government troops opposed his advance, he fired, and 
after a brief combat, was taken prisoner with all his 
followers, who were dispersed throughout Italy. The 
Italian troops were not allowed to cross the borders 
of the Papal States, and the boundary lands and 
frontiers became the haunts of numerous bands of 
brigands, who, when pursued, took refuge in the 
Roman territory. 

France began to wish to be relieved from the em- 
barrassments which the Roman occupation now oc- 
casioned, and an agreement was at last reached be- 
tween the Italian Government and the French Em- 
peror, that neither army should attack the other, and 
that the French troops should gradually be removed 
from Rome ; the King was also to transfer his capital 
to some other convenient locality, and Florence was 
selected, — en route for Rome, in the minds of 
many. 

When the agreement between the French and 
Italian governments became known, Cardinal An- 
tonelli, the Pope's Prime Minister, at first remon- 
strated, and then began to enroll troops. 

The Italian Government now signed an offensive 

[463] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

and defensive alliance with Prussia. This brought 
the question of Venice once more into prominence. 

Prussia declared war against Austria in 1866, and 
Italy, according to the treaty signed in Berlin, did 
the same. The Italians fought bravely at the battle 
of Custoza and Villafranca, but though they were 
worsted by the Austrians in both, their armies re- 
mained unbroken. The Prussians meantime marched 
victoriously on Vienna, and a treaty was soon signed 
by virtue of which Italy obtained Venice, which, by 
another plebiscite, was incorporated as a part of the 
Italian Kingdom. 

Now that the Venetian question was plainly set- 
tled, and Venetia added to the Kingdom of Italy, 
the desire for the possession of Rome to become the 
capital became more ardent than ever. The Holy 
See offered a firm and unwavering resistance to any 
interference of civil power ; but meantime Na- 
poleon was gradually removing his troops from 
Rome according to his treaty with Victor Em- 
manuel, although he insisted that Italy should not 
depart from her agreement to prevent any hostile 
force from entering Rome and causing revolution in 
the Papal city. 

No sooner had the French troops left Rome than 
the revolutionists, headed by Garibaldi, who issued 

[464] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

a proclamation urging the Roman people to revolt, 
started a secret expedition to invade the Papal State, 
this against the express wishes and orders of the 
Government, which arrested Garibaldi and sent him 
to his home in Caprera. Nevertheless bands of in- 
surgents passed the Papal frontiers, and urged the 
population to revolt. The Roman Government com- 
plained to the French Emperor, who, indignant at 
what he considered a breach of faith on the part of 
Italy, prepared to send troops back to Rome, as a 
protection to the Holy See against invasion. 

Garibaldi unwisely endeavored once more to attack 
Rome, but was defeated by the Papal and French 
troops, and forced to cross the frontier where he was 
again arrested. Victor Emmanuel now endeavored 
to form an alliance between Italy, Austria and France, 
hoping in this way to come to an amicable settle- 
ment of all the outstanding questions, — the Roman 
first of all. Had Napoleon III yielded to those pro- 
posals, his fate would, it is generally thought, have 
been much less terrible. 

The year 1867 closed with the publication of the 
Dogma of Infallibility. 

1870 brought the war between France and Prus- 
sia, and the fearful defeats of the French arms are too 
well known to need mention here. Suffice it to say 

[465] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

that France needed her every soldier, and all French 
troops were now withdrawn from Rome; though 
Victor Emmanuel had too much respect for his com- 
pact with Napoleon to take advantage of his misfor- 
tunes to enter Rome by force of arms ; but after the 
catastrophe at Sedan, which was followed by the 
deposition of the Emperor, and the proclamation of 
the French Republic, there was nothing which forced 
him to observe a treaty with a power that now ceased 
to exist. England and France encouraged the occu- 
pation of Rome by Victor Emmanuel. Spain had her 
own revolution to look after. Austria had been de- 
feated (and lost Venice), and was not in a position to 
dictate or open strife anew. Moreover since the pub- 
lication of the Dogma of Infallibility of the Pope, 
a great change had taken place in the minds of the 
people as to the advisability of the Pope's having 
temporal power. 

Victor Emmanuel once more had recourse to 
diplomacy and the ways of peace, but all efforts on 
his part to persuade Pius IX to come to an agreement 
met with the same dogged obstinacy. Accordingly 
an army of fifty thousand men under General Cadorna 
was marched across the frontier into the Papal terri- 
tory. 

The inhabitants welcomed them as deliverers rather 

[466] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

than as invaders, and on the twentieth of September 
(i 870), the army arrived under the walls of the city, 
and with but a slight struggle and a few shots at the 
Porta Pia, a breach was made in the walls, and the 
national army entered Rome amidst the enthusiastic 
acclamations of the people. 

At first the Pope meditated flight, but no friendly 
country was near him. He therefore shut himself 
up in the Vatican, where, according to the tradition 
established by him, the Popes are to-day the prison- 
ers of the King of Italy 

Directly after the occupation of Rome, a plebiscite 
was taken to determine the wishes of the Roman 
people ; 40,895 votes were cast for annexation of 
Rome to the Italian Kingdom, and 96 against it. 

On the 9th of October a deputation of citizens, 
headed by the Duke of Sermoneta, presented them- 
selves before the King, and gave him the result of the 
plebiscite, formally proclaiming the Pontifical States 
henceforth annexed to the Kingdom of Italy. Steps 
were at once taken to transfer the Government to 
Rome, its natural seat. From that time forth the 
whole eflfbrt of the King and his ministers was to 
develop the resources of the country, to promote 
its industries, and extend its relations with foreign 
countries, reform its finances, organize its army and 

[467] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

navy, and to promote the cause of national educa- 
tion. 

Victor Emmanuel (// Re Galantuomo)^ died on the 
9th of January, 1878, receiving, in due form, the 
absolution of the Church, lamented by a whole 
nation, whose freedom he had done more than any 
one to win. A month later Pius IX also died. King 
Umberto I proved a worthy successor to his gallant 
father, and his sad death is still fresh in the minds of 
all lovers of Italy. 

King Victor Emmanuel III is surely a worthy, fit- 
ting successor to his great progenitors. With such a 
a father as Umberto I, and such a mother as Queen 
Margherita, it is not surprising that Victor Em- 
manuel III is a very fine man. Every care was lav- 
ished upon his education, and he is one of the first 
scholars of Europe. He is keenly alive to all the 
best interests of Italy ; has taken an active part in 
the recent agricultural improvements throughout 
Italy, especially in the endeavors to drain and im- 
prove the Roman Campagna; he has given his 
patronage and help to the first Italian International 
Exhibition at Milan, which was opened most bril- 
liantly a short time ago, and in the recent distress 
following the earthquake in Calabria and the erup- 
tion of Vesuvius, His Majesty not only gave most 

[468] 



GLIMPSES OF ITALIAN COURT LIFE 

generously to the sufferers, but went himself among 
them, and both he and the Queen personally gave 
aid and assistance to those in peril and sorrow. 

These personal endeavors of the King and Queen 
in times of danger to care for the welfare of their 
people will ever be remembered, and have placed 
the names of Victor Emmanuel and Elena deep in 
the hearts of the Italian people. United Italy has 
had a glorious beginning with such Kings as Victor 
Emmanuel and Umberto I, and with Victor Em- 
manuel III, it has the promise of a great and bril- 
liant future. 



THE END, 



[469] 



MARCIA REALE 
della Casa di Savoia. 



G. GABETTI. 



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